HELP NEED URGENT :(

[Turbodaily]

as in .550 i think, not 5.50. What area u in?

[hayesey]

2.2kohms is 2200ohms, you want it set between 550-650ohms as a base setting (but you need to use a gas analyser to set it properly).

[langersG40]

thanks mate, yes got it of the car again today and yes it was at 2.00k   put the multi meter on started screwing the screw in and it got it down to 0.60k (this time on terminal 1 and 3) which if im right is 600ohms started the car up running a little better, BUT defo still running lumpy its got to be running rich what would cause this? got the revs down to under 1000rpm Autodata says 920 + or - 25 BUT im confused is that 920 rpm in service mode as if you set it to this in service mode the revs will drop when you put the blue connector back on to the sensor so whats the right way of doing it???

lads many thanks for ALL your help its much appricated, going to get it on a gas analyser tomorrow and set the timing at the weekend

ttfn

chris

[langersG40]

Guys i need your help and advise took the G40 to a mates MOT test station to put it on a gas analyser and i was shocked

HC was 3870 PPM
CO% 11.25
Lambda 0.71
O2% 3.78

when i took the blue sender plug off it dropped ALOT  

HC dropped to 278 ppm
Lambda on 1.00
and CO dropped to 0.2

WHATS GOING ON any ideas why it could like this or what could be causing this???  ive replaced the blue ecu sender recently!!!

any help and advise you could give us i would really appricate it and i really worried about the HC being so high

regards

Chris

[newt]

start with the basics first,
turn the engine to tdc and make sure all timing marks line up
if its one tooth out it will cause map sensor to mis read and over fuel etc
check compression
check ignition timing
check throttle body micro switches are working
check lambda sensor they are critical , and common for failure
it should run well if iall the above are ok

the car may have been played around with by previous owner or garage etc and acctually the realproblem is "masked "by something else

[Turbodaily]

Have you had a diag computer put on yet? Where are u based?

[langersG40]

im in Devon mate! thanks newt will do mate, got my mates timing light over the weekend so fingers crossed!

[Turbodaily]

Sod that then! lol. i have a computer and the leads but thats tooo far mate. Did you get a genuine temp sensor? Its not unheard of for the cheap ones to be faulty

[langersG40]

ha ha lol no dont fancy a trip to sunny Devon lol i didnt mate, its a GSF special about £6 dollar VW wanted 25 quid how will i tell if its faulty?? 

[Puncharado]

Check the resistance at different temps, as explained in this thread by Hayesey. Well worth checking everything else he mentions, it's a good guide.
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html

[langersG40]

UPDATE SO FAR

Ive checked the CO sensor set it at 600 ohmns or 0.60k as on my multi meter.

This morning i thought i check the timing got the cam shaft pulley lined up looked down and the line (next to the O mark was pretty much lined up to the funny tooth marker) so was fairly happy with that.

Next i tried the ignition timing took the blue connector off to put it into service mode got the missus in the car to keep the revs around 2000-2500rpm and i was out!!! 5 degrees out so step up my mates snap on timing light to 6 degrees loosened the two 10mm bolts of the dizzy and got the O mark pretty much bang on!!!
also ive noticed i have a oil leak coming from the rocker cover gasket!!
and a big hole in the ribbed boost pipe coming straight off the G-lader down to the inter cooler, take it im right in thinking there will be a lose of power and it wont run right as the CO sensor will not be getting a true reading?? are these pipes expensive??
ive also noticed the two wires that go to the blue connector one of them has the protective sleeving chaffed so will try and repair it
and lastly i  noticed some one has cable tided the hall sender on to the dizzy and i found as small bit of plastic inside the dizzy cap

[G40supercharged]

The ribbed boost pipe from the charger is well known for getting holes in. You can do a botch repair using electrical insulation tape wound round it. The genuine pipe is about £100 from VW but you may find a second hand one off here. You can also use a bit of silicone pipe with a bend in it as a replacement. Note that the charger moves about with the engine but the intercooler is bolted up solid to the chassis, so if you use a non standard pipe make sure it has a bit of flex in it.

Having a hole in the boost pipe won't affect any of the sensors, it will just loose you some power (well most of it actually!). Everything is measured by the sensors after the supercharger so the car would still run OK if the charger pipe was missing completely. 

[newt]

definetly more than one fault then lol
check out bar tek bebsite they do a silicone oem design boost pipe
good luck

[langersG40]

oh yes lol, just a few

im a little worried tho took the boost pipe off today to do a botch repair on it, looked down after taking the boost pipe off there was a gauze down the bottom of the inter cooler and there looking at me was some rubber particles (see piccy below) obvoiusly it was a rubber O ring before the charger chopped it up would this of come from the inside the charger?? or has it pasted thought the charger?? could it of caused any damage??







also will this make any difference to how the car runs, as the previous owner has cable tied it on as it is cracked and broken!!

[G40supercharged]

The O ring remains look like they could be from the O ring that seals the CO pot/air temperature sender thing. If you remove the clip holding it in and pull it out there should be an O ring inside the plastic (you will loose some boost pressure if its missing). Pretty impressive if it is that and it made it through the charger; the gauze is in the intercooler to stop bits of crap making it into the engine if the charger blows. I would see if the rubber bits make a complete circle, otherwise there is probably some more of it somewhere in the system. If there were no metal particles in the gauze then the charger has probably survived OK.

That sized hole in the charger pipe will have lost most of the boost pressure; you should see a big increase in performance when the car is all sorted.