HELP NEED URGENT :(

[langersG40]

thanks will try that Sam what should the G40 idle at 900rpm??? SamG40 are you on the Corrado forum???

[SamG40]

I think its a little less than that, around 750-800. Yeah I am, my missus runs a Corrado.

[langersG40]

ha ha i thought so im on their too,

right firstly BIG thanks to Jezza who i brought the rear lights off there are great mate well pleased with them thank you

also where can i get those supercharged badges from you know the scripted ones ebay only have the sticker type and also where is the best place to get the red tape for the bumpers?? any help id be most gratful

tackled the thermostat and sensors job this week!!! a 10 minute two 10mm bolts job turned in to a nightmare lol and £45 quid later.....

and guess what the temp gauge on the dash still moves slowly up  

gave her a proper clean too





and of course fitted jezza's tinted lights

[Puncharado]

Halfords for trim tape, or maybe your local motor factors.
For supercharged badge: - http://www.trimsport.co.uk/html/badges.html I think medium is the correct size.

[langersG40]

Try the idle screw on the back of the throttle body. Mine was revving itself up and down at idle (very frustrating) for months and it went with a tweak on the idle screw.

i tried this today, disconnected the blue sender plug (to put it into service mode) took the revs down to 850 rpm, put the plug back on revs raised a little, five minutes later took the plug off again and the revs dropped a fair bit am i right in saying their is a faulty sender on the car some where??
ticks over a little better now around 1000rpm where as before it was at 1500rpm really need to get a fault code reader

[PeteG40]

have a look in this FAQ

pete

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html

[lance]

dkight sells the trim that goes behing the number plate. will finish the back off nice

[langersG40]

have a look in this FAQ

pete

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html

yeah pete so my ECU is not happy by the looks of it GREAT lol!!!!!
A good test of general ECU happyness is to see if the car will go into "service mode".  Do to this, start the engine and run it up to temp, now disconnect the blue temp sensor connector.  The revs should rise slightly if all is well.  If the rev drop significantly and/or the engine cuts out then you have problems with one or more sensors.  You need to do this whenever you check the ignition timing or adjust the idle screw on the throttle body.  Make sure you re-connect the sensor before turning the engine off.

[langersG40]

dkight sells the trim that goes behing the number plate. will finish the back off nice

yes thats my next job!!! oh does he how much? there is someone on ebay selling them for £18!

[cheys03]

yes thats my next job!!! oh does he how much? there is someone on ebay selling them for £18!

That's probably him!

[langersG40]

right i tested the inlet temp Co sensor today and all i could get it to read is 4.88k and this between terminals 1 and 2 between 1 & 3 it reads 1.6k is this bad i thought it had to be between 550 and 650ohmns???

any help id be most gratful

cheers

chris

[G40supercharged]

4.88K is the air temperature sensor which sounds OK as it's not that warm at the moment. The 1.6K value is the CO trim potentiometer value. All this does is send a voltage signal to the ECU to fine adjust CO level at idle. There is no 'correct' value; it depends on the individual car. The only way to set it properly is to get an exhaust gas analyser. The 550 - 650 ohms value that seems to be popular is just a starting point (if it really needed to be this value it wouldn't be adjustable). If the blue cover was missing from the top of the CO pot then someone has already had a play with it, possibly to get through an MOT. Try 600 ohms and see if it runs any better; it won't do any harm.

The ECU controls idle revs by adjusting the timing. In order for it to do this the base timing setting must be correct in the first place. There is no fixed timing point on the flywheel etc. like on more modern cars - the distributer has to be in the correct position in the first place. Make sure car is fully warmed up. Put the car in service mode (with the blue sensor) and set the timing to factory spec using a strobe (even if it's struggling to run like this). After this adjust the idle control screw on the throttle body to get a suitable steady idle (say 1000rpm). Then put the blue sender back on and the ECU should control the idle nicely assuming everything else is OK (plugs, leads, dizzy cap). It's likely that there is nothing wrong with your car at all, it just needs setting up properly.

The 'idle stabilisation valve' thing doesn't control the idle. It's just a cold start device (properly called an auxillary air valve). It lets in extra air when the engine is cold and should be closed when the car is fully warmed up.

[langersG40]

Many thanks for your reply

4.88k was the most i could get out of it, i couldnt get it to go lower  (stuck a screw driver in and watched it go down on the multi meter) but just couldnt get it up anymore than 4.88 started to click when turning like if its at the end of travel!!!! yes no blue cover. phoned VW today to see how much it was and its the best part of £70 dollar christ!!lol

I think yor right on the fact about timing so thats my next port of call, again many thanks for your advise

regards

chris

[Turbodaily]

The 550 ohms should be on pins 1 and 3 mate, not 1 and 2 if thats where your measuring from.

WOT=wide open throttle 

[langersG40]

yeah i know but couldnt get it to register more than 2.00k this cant be right!!! any one on here got a spare one they dont want?