Club G40 Forum
Club G40 => General Car Chat => Topic started by: langersG40 on October 25, 2010, 11:51:47 pm
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Hi everyone,
I maybe purchased a G40 soon, im not new to VDub ownership but am new to G40 ownership, always wanted one for years, this one is not mint, the superchargers not been touched at all ::) and its done 150k regularly serviced as far as im aware BUT the chargers never been overhaulled?? this worrys me alot as i dont know nothing about G40s
are they easy to rebuild and service yourself? are part expensive? any hints and tips on G40 ownership?
I took it from a test drive and it seemed a bit flat not as quick as i thought it would be, it is completely standard is this how they are?
once well serviced etc, what would be a good place to start in light engine tweaks etc to make a noticable differents
any help and advise to a Could be new G40 owner i would be most grateful
many thanks
langers ;)
;D
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Chargers can be serviced for about £3-400 last time I looked, not many places that do it but if you're handy with some spanners you can do it yourself for much less.
Tuning wise most G40's that aren't left stock are treated to the following basic modifications:
Ported Charger
Smaller Charger Pulley (Sometimes with a toothed belt kit to replace the 2 v-belts and prevent slippage)
Exhaust
Induction Kit
Chip
This lot will get you between 130-150 bhp depending on what you go for and how much you're prepared to spend.
As for the performance of the car you drove, hard to say over t'internet You'd be best to find someone with a G to go with you...
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welcome to the forum!
There is an FAQ by PeteG40 on how to service the charger yourself. Have a read of that and then decide if it's a job you fancy tackling. If you are wanting the charger porting then you need to send it off to someone like Jabbasport really, I wouldn't attempt porting yourself, you're more likely to get it wrong than right or even ruin the charger.
As for feeling flat, impossible to say over the internet. It'd be worth getting a vagcom lead, checking for fault codes and getting it on a gas analyser to check the fuelling.
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my faq is only currently dismantling the charger...
when i have time, i shall be doing
1. assessing for wear
2. fitting bearings and seals.
3. reassembly
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Hi mate, If you look under the superchargers / g-lader section on here, PeteG40 sells rebuild kits for £185, he will also rebiuld it for a little extra, he has done many and knows what he's on about. If your brave enough have a crack yourself, I did my own and had no problems whatsoever, there is a guide somewhere on here by matey matey based on a G60 charger, the chargers differ slightly but the rebuilds pretty much the same.
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thanks for the info guys, i was thinking i wonder if it could be losing boost due to the seals being the originals etc so excited about owning a G40 im like a big kid around my house at the mo, i hope he sells it to me.
ttfn
Langers ;D
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Hi dude, my charger didnt have its first rebuild until 193k and it still performed, but its a good idea to get it rebuilt anyway.
Look around for boost leaks also, i have found the small pipe down to the isv usually splits for example. The car should be able to impress anyone, even when standard so something doesnt sound right! lol
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Well i pick it up at the weekend hopefully ;) so will properly drive it and let you know what i think. soooo looking forward to G40 ownership. just a quick question standard they are 113bhp with just a 68mm pulley fitted what does that bump it up to?
ttfn
chris
P.S will upload so photos when i collect it
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well i got it here it is. does anyone know where i can get
a set of smoked rear lights,
a set of front clear indicators
a G40 front grill badge
a rear polo G40 badge
and a rear bumper
any help i would be most gratful
ttfn
Langers :D
after cleaning the engine today just need to paint the Rocker cover
(http://i56.tinypic.com/osuceh.jpg)
started to clean underneath today as well pleased with the results ;D
(http://i56.tinypic.com/9zyneo.jpg)
wheels before
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2v9d8qq.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2vjv1jq.jpg)
After wheels are cleaned
(http://i51.tinypic.com/255ozr7.jpg)
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Looks a decent standard example.
Club Polo or ebay are your best bet for lights and bumpers. Badges are much harder to come by, occasionally on ebay, and ebay.de always seems to have a few, but prepare to pay ££s.
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thanks yeah she's nice standard example, just want those bits to tidy her up!!! thanks for the tip off ;D
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Think its Dknight on here who makes the rear badge stickers. Lot less likely to be pinched. Rear badges can be brought new. They're roughly £57 minus postage.
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where are the badges new??? tried vw today and its obsulate :(
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Looks like a nice honest car that! And one of the first (mk3) too!
Dont worry about the cosmetics for now, put the money into getting the charger rebuilt or some a new fuel pump to save you melting a piston, cos believe me, you dont want to join that club! lol
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yeah need to get the charger rebuilt!! what do you mean about the fuel pump???? ???
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Welcome to G40 ownership! Looks like a good car; not been messed with, my favourite colour and H plate so you can legally remove the catalytic convertor.
I fitted a plain 'Polo' badge on the back of both of my G40s (one already had the rear badge stolen when I got it). The badge was only about a fiver from VW and fits in the 2 holes that the PoloG40 badge uses. I cleaned off the silver paint with fine emery paper and T cut so it was plain black. It stops anyone nicking a £50 G40 badge and less chance of the car getting stolen as well.
Rear bumper is the same as any other Mk3 coupe (but different to the hatchback). The red strip is just stuck on and you can get a suitable sized trim tape from Halfords.
I would give it a good service first and get a charger rebuild if its not had one. After that fit a smaller pulley, K&N 57i induction kit, and generic ECU chip to get around 125-130bhp. All easy to fit and only about £150. The pulley has more effect than any other mod you can do. The cone filter also makes a big difference on a G40 as the stock air box has a restriction in the outlet. You can just remove the restriction if you don't like the noise of the cone filter. There is a VW factory decat pipe available which was about £70 last time I bought one.
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Fuel pumps are prone to not working properly, causing it to lean out and melt pistons. Very common problem, i myself have melted 2 pistons in 5 years! lol And lots of other people have to. Not trying to scare monger you into it btw mate! Just letting you know from my experience so far 8)
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What did you use on your wheels to bring them up like that
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They look like they've looked after to be fair. Just noticed, get those awful outside wheel weights off!
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What did you use on your wheels to bring them up like that
Blackberry wheel cleaner mate they were in a shitty condition before its very good stuff!!!
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Right first driving the car this morning running fine til i was sat in traffic and the revs started to climb (to around 1500 rpm) car was at working temp ish, ive have fitted new blue ECU and a black two pin temp gauge sender. any help or light on the revs picking up i would be most gratful
on to my next job, thought i replace the thermostat today BIG MISTAKE lol two bolts easy job.......... ohhhh no basically new housing is needed i believe this is a common fault???? will try nd sort it out tomorrow.
and lastly ordered a new gear ever gaitor off Ebay as VW wated £110 quid ??? any way got it today not bad for £14 quid delivered but just wanted to know what the original ones quality was like??? has any one got any photos please so i have something to compare it to
many thanks
regards
Chris
P.S i still love my G40 lol ;D
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on to my next job, thought i replace the thermostat today BIG MISTAKE lol two bolts easy job.......... ohhhh no basically new housing is needed i believe this is a common fault???? will try nd sort it out tomorrow.
It is s common fault. The plastic gets brittle and cracks.
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Or you have rounded bolts too. >:( ;D
hmm, increase in idle rpm could be blue CTS u/s (can happen even though its new), slight vac leak, sticky isv poss?
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HA yeah lol, bloody nightmare but all sorted now, but the idling problem is still bugging me!!! now it revs up and down sat in traffic from 1000 to 1500rpm weird. really a new Blue CTS could cause that really? is the ISV sat under the inlet manfold? whats the best thing to do soak it i brake cleaner???? if it was sticky isv valve surely it would just cut out??
any help guy i would be most gratful
cheers
Langers ;)
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Ignition timing maybe? mark the dizzy up and have a play with it.
Or the idle switch on the tb is a good one, my car used to hunt on idle all the time, had to make it settle using the clutch biting point and the brakes! lol. There was a slight bit of resistance in the switch, which basicly gave the ecu the hump and caused it to have all sorts of idle problems. Worth checking your WOT switch while your there too
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Hi You can get both front and rear genuine vw badges from watercooledshop on e bay. the company are based in germany. i have just bought a set myself. Best of luck Big E.
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Cheers fellas ;)
thanks Big E will give that ago
Turbodaily thanks mate will give it a go, doesnt the ECU control the timing??? or not ?? and what is a WOT switch mate??
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I had a similar probelm on my g40 that bugged me for months which was the revs dropping. Turned out to be fault code that had not been reset. I had changed the blue sensor, cleaned out isv, replaced any dodgy hoses etc. Another likely candidate is the dizzy/hallsender.
Great cars but they can be very frustrating.
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thanks mate will give it a go!!! it also cuts out sometimes as well >:(
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Try the idle screw on the back of the throttle body. Mine was revving itself up and down at idle (very frustrating) for months and it went with a tweak on the idle screw.
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thanks will try that Sam what should the G40 idle at 900rpm??? SamG40 are you on the Corrado forum???
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I think its a little less than that, around 750-800. Yeah I am, my missus runs a Corrado.
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ha ha i thought so im on their too,
right firstly BIG thanks to Jezza who i brought the rear lights off there are great mate well pleased with them thank you
also where can i get those supercharged badges from you know the scripted ones ebay only have the sticker type :( and also where is the best place to get the red tape for the bumpers?? any help id be most gratful ;D
tackled the thermostat and sensors job this week!!! a 10 minute two 10mm bolts job turned in to a nightmare lol and £45 quid later.....
(http://i51.tinypic.com/25hn6n5.jpg)
and guess what the temp gauge on the dash still moves slowly up :o >:(
gave her a proper clean too
(http://i53.tinypic.com/x5sec8.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/j9vouo.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/4g6lc4.jpg)
and of course fitted jezza's tinted lights ;D
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Halfords for trim tape, or maybe your local motor factors.
For supercharged badge: - http://www.trimsport.co.uk/html/badges.html I think medium is the correct size.
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Try the idle screw on the back of the throttle body. Mine was revving itself up and down at idle (very frustrating) for months and it went with a tweak on the idle screw.
i tried this today, disconnected the blue sender plug (to put it into service mode) took the revs down to 850 rpm, put the plug back on revs raised a little, five minutes later took the plug off again and the revs dropped a fair bit :( am i right in saying their is a faulty sender on the car some where??
ticks over a little better now around 1000rpm where as before it was at 1500rpm really need to get a fault code reader
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have a look in this FAQ
pete
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html
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dkight sells the trim that goes behing the number plate. will finish the back off nice
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have a look in this FAQ
pete
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html
yeah pete so my ECU is not happy by the looks of it GREAT lol!!!!!
A good test of general ECU happyness is to see if the car will go into "service mode". Do to this, start the engine and run it up to temp, now disconnect the blue temp sensor connector. The revs should rise slightly if all is well. If the rev drop significantly and/or the engine cuts out then you have problems with one or more sensors. You need to do this whenever you check the ignition timing or adjust the idle screw on the throttle body. Make sure you re-connect the sensor before turning the engine off.
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dkight sells the trim that goes behing the number plate. will finish the back off nice
yes thats my next job!!! oh does he how much? there is someone on ebay selling them for £18!
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yes thats my next job!!! oh does he how much? there is someone on ebay selling them for £18!
That's probably him!
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right i tested the inlet temp Co sensor today and all i could get it to read is 4.88k and this between terminals 1 and 2 between 1 & 3 it reads 1.6k is this bad i thought it had to be between 550 and 650ohmns???
any help id be most gratful
cheers
chris
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4.88K is the air temperature sensor which sounds OK as it's not that warm at the moment. The 1.6K value is the CO trim potentiometer value. All this does is send a voltage signal to the ECU to fine adjust CO level at idle. There is no 'correct' value; it depends on the individual car. The only way to set it properly is to get an exhaust gas analyser. The 550 - 650 ohms value that seems to be popular is just a starting point (if it really needed to be this value it wouldn't be adjustable). If the blue cover was missing from the top of the CO pot then someone has already had a play with it, possibly to get through an MOT. Try 600 ohms and see if it runs any better; it won't do any harm.
The ECU controls idle revs by adjusting the timing. In order for it to do this the base timing setting must be correct in the first place. There is no fixed timing point on the flywheel etc. like on more modern cars - the distributer has to be in the correct position in the first place. Make sure car is fully warmed up. Put the car in service mode (with the blue sensor) and set the timing to factory spec using a strobe (even if it's struggling to run like this). After this adjust the idle control screw on the throttle body to get a suitable steady idle (say 1000rpm). Then put the blue sender back on and the ECU should control the idle nicely assuming everything else is OK (plugs, leads, dizzy cap). It's likely that there is nothing wrong with your car at all, it just needs setting up properly.
The 'idle stabilisation valve' thing doesn't control the idle. It's just a cold start device (properly called an auxillary air valve). It lets in extra air when the engine is cold and should be closed when the car is fully warmed up.
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Many thanks for your reply
4.88k was the most i could get out of it, i couldnt get it to go lower (stuck a screw driver in and watched it go down on the multi meter) but just couldnt get it up anymore than 4.88 started to click when turning like if its at the end of travel!!!! yes no blue cover. phoned VW today to see how much it was and its the best part of £70 dollar christ!!lol
I think yor right on the fact about timing so thats my next port of call, again many thanks for your advise
regards
chris
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The 550 ohms should be on pins 1 and 3 mate, not 1 and 2 if thats where your measuring from.
WOT=wide open throttle ;)
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yeah i know but couldnt get it to register more than 2.00k this cant be right!!! any one on here got a spare one they dont want????
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as in .550 i think, not 5.50. What area u in?
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2.2kohms is 2200ohms, you want it set between 550-650ohms as a base setting (but you need to use a gas analyser to set it properly).
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thanks mate, yes got it of the car again today and yes it was at 2.00k :o put the multi meter on started screwing the screw in and it got it down to 0.60k (this time on terminal 1 and 3) which if im right is 600ohms ::) started the car up running a little better, BUT defo still running lumpy its got to be running rich what would cause this???? got the revs down to under 1000rpm Autodata says 920 + or - 25 BUT im confused is that 920 rpm in service mode as if you set it to this in service mode the revs will drop when you put the blue connector back on to the sensor so whats the right way of doing it???
lads many thanks for ALL your help its much appricated, going to get it on a gas analyser tomorrow and set the timing at the weekend
ttfn
chris
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Guys i need your help and advise took the G40 to a mates MOT test station to put it on a gas analyser and i was shocked
HC was 3870 PPM
CO% 11.25
Lambda 0.71
O2% 3.78
when i took the blue sender plug off it dropped ALOT
HC dropped to 278 ppm
Lambda on 1.00
and CO dropped to 0.2
WHATS GOING ON any ideas why it could like this or what could be causing this??? ive replaced the blue ecu sender recently!!!
any help and advise you could give us i would really appricate it and i really worried about the HC being so high
regards
Chris
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start with the basics first,
turn the engine to tdc and make sure all timing marks line up
if its one tooth out it will cause map sensor to mis read and over fuel etc
check compression
check ignition timing
check throttle body micro switches are working
check lambda sensor they are critical , and common for failure
it should run well if iall the above are ok
the car may have been played around with by previous owner or garage etc and acctually the realproblem is "masked "by something else
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Have you had a diag computer put on yet? Where are u based?
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im in Devon mate! thanks newt will do mate, got my mates timing light over the weekend so fingers crossed!
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Sod that then! lol. i have a computer and the leads but thats tooo far mate. Did you get a genuine temp sensor? Its not unheard of for the cheap ones to be faulty
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ha ha lol no dont fancy a trip to sunny Devon lol i didnt mate, its a GSF special about £6 dollar VW wanted 25 quid :o how will i tell if its faulty??
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Check the resistance at different temps, as explained in this thread by Hayesey. Well worth checking everything else he mentions, it's a good guide.
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,214.0.html
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UPDATE SO FAR
Ive checked the CO sensor set it at 600 ohmns or 0.60k as on my multi meter.
This morning i thought i check the timing got the cam shaft pulley lined up looked down and the line (next to the O mark was pretty much lined up to the funny tooth marker) so was fairly happy with that.
Next i tried the ignition timing took the blue connector off to put it into service mode got the missus in the car to keep the revs around 2000-2500rpm and i was out!!! 5 degrees out so step up my mates snap on timing light to 6 degrees loosened the two 10mm bolts of the dizzy and got the O mark pretty much bang on!!!
also ive noticed i have a oil leak coming from the rocker cover gasket!!
and a big hole in the ribbed boost pipe coming straight off the G-lader down to the inter cooler, take it im right in thinking there will be a lose of power and it wont run right as the CO sensor will not be getting a true reading?? are these pipes expensive??
ive also noticed the two wires that go to the blue connector one of them has the protective sleeving chaffed so will try and repair it >:(
and lastly i noticed some one has cable tided the hall sender on to the dizzy and i found as small bit of plastic inside the dizzy cap >:(
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The ribbed boost pipe from the charger is well known for getting holes in. You can do a botch repair using electrical insulation tape wound round it. The genuine pipe is about £100 from VW but you may find a second hand one off here. You can also use a bit of silicone pipe with a bend in it as a replacement. Note that the charger moves about with the engine but the intercooler is bolted up solid to the chassis, so if you use a non standard pipe make sure it has a bit of flex in it.
Having a hole in the boost pipe won't affect any of the sensors, it will just loose you some power (well most of it actually!). Everything is measured by the sensors after the supercharger so the car would still run OK if the charger pipe was missing completely.
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definetly more than one fault then lol
check out bar tek bebsite they do a silicone oem design boost pipe
good luck
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oh yes lol, just a few
im a little worried tho took the boost pipe off today to do a botch repair on it, looked down after taking the boost pipe off there was a gauze down the bottom of the inter cooler and there looking at me was some rubber particles (see piccy below) obvoiusly it was a rubber O ring before the charger chopped it up would this of come from the inside the charger?? or has it pasted thought the charger?? could it of caused any damage??
(http://i55.tinypic.com/rkr5eh.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/e6pv6p.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/5k4mxc.jpg)
also will this make any difference to how the car runs, as the previous owner has cable tied it on as it is cracked and broken!! :(
(http://i53.tinypic.com/rk809v.jpg)
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The O ring remains look like they could be from the O ring that seals the CO pot/air temperature sender thing. If you remove the clip holding it in and pull it out there should be an O ring inside the plastic (you will loose some boost pressure if its missing). Pretty impressive if it is that and it made it through the charger; the gauze is in the intercooler to stop bits of crap making it into the engine if the charger blows. I would see if the rubber bits make a complete circle, otherwise there is probably some more of it somewhere in the system. If there were no metal particles in the gauze then the charger has probably survived OK.
That sized hole in the charger pipe will have lost most of the boost pressure; you should see a big increase in performance when the car is all sorted.
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The cable tied hall sender connector shouldn't be too much of a problem, you can try aralditing it I guess. You'd notice running/cutting out issues if it were knackered... but do check to see if the ignition timing is getting thrown out again as might cause that i guess. The ECU trys to compensate to maintain 6deg timing generally.
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thanks guys
really appricated all the help and advise you have given me ;D
replaced the rocker cover gasket today, as it was leaking, changed the rotor arm an dizzy for a BERU one, yes G40supercharged you were right it was the O ring for the CO sender lol got a O ring and stuck it in there!!! but i still can here a leak from some where ??? :-\ ::)
also guys any tips on tightening the twin V belts??? best method etc, tryed looking on here couldnt find anything but that just probably me lol
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Your getting there mate! lol
Check the small pipe that comes off the plastic boost pipe and goes straight down to the isv.
V belts.... Hmmm, they will always pretty much slip, no matter how tight! lol
The charger itself is the 'tensioner'. You need to undo the 10mm allen key bolt on the charger (the main top pivot bolt), and then the 19mm bolt on the side next to the pulley.
Then on the charger above the pulley there is a 1/2 inch keyway to put a breaker bar in so you can get leverage to tension it.
Hold it there whilst you re-tighten the bolts.
I think you can get sticky belt dressing to put on the belts, which aids it a little bit. The dressing is used for machines, like laithes and mills etc.
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You want to be able to twist the belts a 1/4 to a 1/2's twist along the longest section of the belt run, that'll be tight enough. Too tight and you risk overstressing the bearings on the alternator or charger, and/or the belt may snap while driving.
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Well i havent been on here in ages, enjoying the G40 far to much a little update, brought a 65mm pulley it, and got some clear front indicators which has improved the front appearence, also given her a good wash, polish and wax!!!
I have also decided to fit some Yoko A539's to her to help it stick to the road a bit better!!!!
Managed to find a front G40 Badge from germany, ive shot blasted the rocker cover and given the underneath a good clean!!!!
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2vwbh4p.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/wrgk81.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/qn398p.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/6jegkk.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/14ifx9j.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/ml4cvr.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2jcyamu.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/29c5jxv.jpg)
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well havent been on here for a while, the G is having a major overhaul, stripped and rebuilt head, full blend charger and smaller 65 mm pulley, new water pump
(http://i56.tinypic.com/1zbtnx4.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2movw5k.jpg)
Shot blast and painted part
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2cymujp.jpg)
Found the knock sensor was badly cracked :( whats peoples views on this is it worth replacing its £60 from vw tho!!!!
(http://i56.tinypic.com/egsd1i.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/10pn1uo.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2q2emh4.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/ip9tt0.jpg)
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I think if you can mate i would replace it. I did mine when i was rebuilding the engine.
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cheers mate will do but is there any where else that does them apart from VW???
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I dont think so. I got mine like new 2nd hand for £20. Maybe someone got one spare?
Also it looks like the plastic sheath has cracked and exposing the wire. That excact thing happened to me and when i was working on the car i dropped a tool and it caught that exposed wire and shorted it. Had fireworks for a few seconds.
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HELP PLEASE
Right the story soooo far, took it of the road in the summer to rebuild it, new cam belt, waterpump, new headgasket, rebuilt the head, new valve stem oil seals etc, brought a PSD full blend off Pete ;) any way after rebuilding it all started it up noticed it was leaking oil out the charger, you guys said check oil level and i had over filled it >:( any way must have done some damage and fooked the scroll seals and so send it back to pete to sort out for me (thanks mate ;D) so it arrives back today well happy thinking il get me G back on the road at last, but before bolting on the charger i thought best run it up to check it was ok, was running fine for 5-10mins then clouds of white smoke appeared :( :( , to start with just thought it might be oil left in manifold etc, so cleaned it out and ran it again again without the charger on and same thing, took spark plugs out and they were a little wet but more with fuel than oil, looked at the water level all ok, oil level was fine the only thing i did notice was oil weeping out of the head gasket near the camshaft gear wheel side at the front :( basically piston one, and also down as you look towards the crankshaft gear wheel and then a very small amount on the floor that side :( i defo remember follow the torque settings when bolting the head down and i used new bolts from GSF as well as head gsket from them too. ::)
the car was running fairly well before i took it apart, wish i left it now fookin gutted ::)
any help on this i would be so gratful
regards
CHRIS
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have you checkd your CO pot?
it can be overfueling, and causing some of smoke.
did you bought specific G40 head bolts? non G40 ones are longer and can reach the thread limit and not get the right torque.
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ooooooooh foooook really!! will look on the receipt got em from GSF think i did compare them but it was back in the summer, i played about with the co pot when i first got the car and set it by resistance, would it need doing again??
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o forgot to say it is running fine to start, apart from it seems to take ages to return to idle when blippin the throttle but after 10mins or so hunting like a gooden ::)
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does any one know the correct GSF part number for the right bolts?? just looked at the receipt but it does say G40 or not!!
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You can't get proper G40 head bolts from GSF or Eurocarparts. Only place is VW however they are expensive - think around £8 each.
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yeah robin is correct there. And i think its still plus vat on them.
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white smoke isn't going to be oil, it's normally steam. Are you sure it's not using any water at all? It only takes a small amount of water to make a hell of a lot of steam. It could be something as daft as condensation inside the exhaust if the car has been stood a while.
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burning oil makes blue smoke
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thanks hayesey for the advise na pressure tested it today didnt lose water, whats is a good compression reading??
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I think the wear limit is 7 bar, it's in the haynes manual.
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Thanks mate oh is it cool, i got 9.5 Bar on all cylinders so guess thats ok ;)