Author Topic: Mk1 G40 Turbo  (Read 38855 times)

Offline z3i

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #60 on: March 04, 2014, 10:34:35 am »
Seats are epic!!!

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #61 on: March 14, 2014, 09:21:05 pm »

Hi guys,

I've done a bit more. Got my seat bars in, all good. First I removed the original seat retention mech off the crossmembers and cut down the captive runners on the inner sills & tranny tunnel to get my bars in then welded my patches of 16swg in to make a solid base to weld my bars to.



Then lined it all up with lots of measurement and small tacks before cranking the MIG plant up to '5 mile island' and blowing it all in.



I admit, there was a deal of vacuuming before it looked like that!

Yeah, happy.



Again, I need to do the nice laser cut brackets for the rear seat mount - i'll do that later.

Right. launch the mill in next for a look. Before that, need to look at how the oil cooler will fit. Needs a couple of ally brackets on the cooler and some steel 'L' brackets welding in - I can sort that easy enough.



Nothing like a prototype  8)

I removed the splash-guard from behind the grille to promote airflow to the oil cooler, and cut the two pressed rebates out too for the same reason





I've moved it back a few feet in the workshop now so I've got a bit of space to get the engine in and work around it. I've borrowed an engine crane off Adam, (G40 AD) and got horrendously lost and later found by Saf in order to pick it up. Cheers boys!


Offline Yoof

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #62 on: March 15, 2014, 08:48:23 am »
Ah man, Docking- we've had a few parts from them, always makes me laugh...

NSFW: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=docking

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #63 on: March 15, 2014, 11:25:18 am »
Remind me to buy MOCAL next time  ;D

Offline runforrestrun

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #64 on: March 15, 2014, 08:11:57 pm »
following this with interest.

Regarding the two extra vent holes you cut, have you just removed the extra metal from the original holes to make them all look the same?

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #65 on: March 16, 2014, 08:03:54 am »
Yeah, that's right. It's really to promote airflow across the face of the oil cooler (which will sit directly behind those holes) but the bumper sits in front of the whole lot, so cutting those holes is of minimal benefit. It all helps though.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #66 on: March 23, 2014, 02:41:48 pm »
Hi guys, there's been a bit of progress. Lets start with mounting the oil cooler. Simple enough - you know where it was going to go as the last thing I did was cut out the holes. So I got on and knocked out some brackets + fitted the water rad too so I could look at space and leave space between the two for oil pipe clearance.



I'll buy a new stock rad once i've finished smashing things into it by mistake while on the build! Happy with the fit though.

Next, pull those out and put the mill in for a look-see. Cue Ad G40's crane, again!





It's now people who've done this before realise exactly how much less space there is forward of the engine on a mk1!

I put a few other ancilaries on too, things that will need to be in to give me a true idea of space. Rad, oil cooler, ARB, alternator. Alternator needed a bit of modifying to get in - nothing too brutal, just taking an unused hole off the outer cast flange.






Now for the science bit, gang. So to put a G40 lump in a MK1, super or turbocharged, you have to make a section of the bonnet slam panel removable. Then after that you're playing 'hunt that space' for your oil cooler & intercooler, usually shutting panels or using bodykits to hide what's been done. And that works fine....but i'm not digging it.

I've drawn inspiration from BICKLE, Mk1 tuners of old from a couple of pictures I found online.....





....and I thought yeah - do fancy it (but with certain caveats!) I'll be using a K03, and my downpipe will be dropping under the engine in the same position VW intended. On with the build.

First, decide on the turbo's orientation and position.



BOOM! (Willing helpers are also useful for holding stuff. Mine helped but 'willing' is maybe over-egging it.)



So starting with a mild steel tubular manifold a wing & a prayer, I cut the polo's old original exhaust system up and looked at how I could get from A to B. I'd been looking it at for a week and only saw problems. Hard lines. I was over complicating things. I was trying to get four individual headers into a 4-1 collector then going to turbo. This wasn't going to happen - it was all looking a bit grim. What I really needed to do was do the whole lot higher up (as the downpipe will run directly parallel underneath it) and get above the ARB. So after chatting to Andy about the whys & wherefore's of exhaust building (which I have a bit of experience in anyway...) and how the PY reacts to certain variations and realising that the ROTHE manifold isn't equal length and that works a beaut, I cracked on...









Just need to join the other headers into that now. Well, I say that but I'd be lying. The polo's original exhaust is 1.5" and I want the headers at 1.5" but the collector pipe (if you will) to be 1.75" so it meets up with the turbo at the right diameter. It'll all be mild steel, as the downpipe will be too. This is deliberate, not cost saving. Both the manifold and the downpipe will be long. Stainless moves about too much with extreme heat, mild is much more stable. I'll go stainless back from the downipipe. I'll also be bracing it to the engine mount to give the turbo support. This will be on slots though, so when it does move about the forces are not contained in the manifold itself - resulting in cracking.

So I'm due to see my exhaust guy on Friday. Again, lucky me - he builds the exhaust extensions for our cars so he's going to hook me up with the bits I need. Legend series. I'll build the manifold & downpipe from the tubes I get.

It can be easy to get angles wrong when building exhausts. Unless you have the whole car there (which is usually a sod to work around) then the best way to ensure you'll get what you want without horrible shuts everywhere to get the angles you want is to make a jig. So that's what I've done. You may laugh, but I can now get all the right parts and build it on the bench at home in the knowledge it'll go straight on.

She's a beaut!





 


Offline CJ Dubs

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #67 on: April 09, 2014, 10:48:43 am »
Never knew this thread existed! :o

Can't believe how similar our projects are - my build thread can be found here:

http://z3.invisionfree.com/Mk1_Polo_Club/index.php?showtopic=1404

Mine started off as a bit of fun but as the years have rolled by my end result has changed somewhat! :-\

Really hoping to do a lot more to mine this year seeing as the kids have put me back over the last few years.  Then again......I remember saying the same thing 3 years ago! :D

Keep up the good work buddy!

Cheers,
Chris.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #68 on: April 26, 2014, 09:13:12 pm »
Hi guys, time for an update. Progress is being made although the list of jobs before paint seems to get longer every time I look at something I need to do. Something always needs altering!

Anyway. Went to my tube guy and he hooked me up. If you're in the Manchester/Rochdale area I can thoroughly recommend him. Using my jig, a piece of chalk and 'rack oh't eye' he knocked up this beaut in 1.75" in 10 minute flat. First time fit. That's 30 years of experience for you.



http://www.tg-silencersrochdale.co.uk/

So I got back home and knocked up the manifold.











Permission to say 'BOOM!' !  Pleased with that. Just need to do the bracing off the engine mount. I've got the bracket made, I'll sort that in a bit once the downpipe is sorted.

I was a bit stuck for a while waiting for some bits, but I busied myself with putting central locking in the doors. Checking where my windows ran and having my servo's to hand I knocked up a link rod to the original and it works a beaut. Another job out the way. Simples.





Also broke out the airsaw and widened the fusebox aperture for the Mk3 rascal.



Felt flush after payday so ordered my Intercooler. Now all this messing about is kinda key to this, as the idea was to fit this behind the (late) grille, so to keep it looking stock but having maximum flow across the intercooler - something that putting the turbo in in front of the block on a Mk1 compromises.

So here's the idea....



Theory is great. Practise often takes more achieving than first thought. This case is not the exception. When I measured the intercooler, I thought about the height and width but not the depth!! Schoolboy error. Life innit. Let the engineering commence!!

So I need to get it further back. What's stopping it? The bonnet catch & brace bar. Ok, not the end of the world just a bit of work. Basically I need to loose the O.E bonnet catch and re-locate them outboard - one each side. That way I can cut out the centre brace and move the 'cooler back about an inch. Looks like I'll need to move the oil cooler back too, no biggy (smalls) just some bracket alteration. I'll wind up running the 'cooler the other way up to miss the catches.

This spurred on a trip to the scrapper. I love a trip to the scrapper!

(unfortunately I just did a ctrl+v and lost sh1t-loads of what I'd written. f*cksake. Ok. Start over.)

Being as the downpipe is now in the way of where the O.E water line ran to the radiator I now need to re-route them too. You know what they say - Business in the front, par-tay round the back! With that in mind, turbo is frontal and waterpipes go behind, so I had a few bits to get. Here's what I got....

- Citroen Top Hose
- Peugeot Bottom hose
- Mid 90's Range Rover door gaiters
- Volvo 940 bonnet release mech's & pins (after a fight with a BMW 318 and deciding that corsa mech's looked alright but I'd rather be maimed than have Vauhall cast-off on the 'dub.)

£20. Boom-tang! Cool.

The hoses fitted better than expected. Bonus! Door gaiters will be needed for door speakers and locking solenoids. (I needed some 'early' ones, as most cars these days have big plugs on the end, not a traditional gaiter.

So the idea is to change the central bonnet catch for two outboard ones, and migrate the O.E release cable into it. It's going to work. The volve units are simple and not very deep either. The pins are adjustable so I'll weld some adjuster plates onto the bonnet, alter the slam panel & we're away! The pin centres will be where the blue cross shows.



So I've got a list of jobs to do before paint. It looks like this...



Got any more suggestions? Well keep them to yourself. I've got enough to do  ;)

Downpipe bits arrive next week, so more pipework fun can commence. Quality!

Offline z3i

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #69 on: April 26, 2014, 10:44:15 pm »
Ehum!.... Cough* where getting it painted cough*!

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #70 on: April 26, 2014, 11:09:39 pm »
Work, hopefully. We've got 5 booths.....

Offline z3i

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #71 on: April 26, 2014, 11:16:04 pm »
Work, hopefully. We've got 5 booths.....

Dayum! That must be huge!! Where do you work?

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #72 on: April 26, 2014, 11:31:53 pm »
Without naming names, I work for a specialist vehicle builder, one of the largest in the country.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #73 on: May 12, 2014, 09:34:05 pm »

Yeah - been doing some work.....

First I had a look at where the bonnet meets the slam panel and where to put the catches. Once decided, I took the bonnet off, flipped it and shut some plates into it with M8 nuts tacked on the back.









Nice. Then using a bit of engineers blue, I bored some holes in the slam panel where the pins touched it. I had to cut down the latches and weld some new fixing nuts on the back, then flatten off the slam where the holes needed to be...





In fairness, there was fair amount of messing about involved but I've sorted it now, and it works a beaut. The spring loaded pins are quite long, so the catches need spacing down a bit - no problem. Shorten the pins too much and the springs will bottom out so it's a balancing act. Leaving the central pin in place, I shut the bonnet and measured at the edges, then with the central release removed checked I could achieve the same with the new side mounted pins.

Mish accomplished. I can link those up the the original release mech with a bit of bowden cable & sleeving. Easy.

All this enabled me to cut the central spar out (and the one on the right too) so I can get my intercooler back to sit behind the grill.









Cooling pack from the back.....



So I'm chuffed. Max exposure of the intercooled in a stealthy location  8) The intercooler bolting to the slam and to the panel below will give it the structure back that i've cut out - not that it needs it as the bonnet mounts are now at the side where the strength is.

Needs tidying next. Although it all fits now bit needs rounding off and neatening up.

Downpipe next now the bits are here and I've got a TIG set organised. Then engine back out and shut that Mk3 bulkhead part in!


Offline Etches

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #74 on: May 12, 2014, 09:49:20 pm »
Looks great dude! Gotta sort that pesky pipework now lol  :D