Club G40 Forum
Club G40 => Photos and videos => Ongoing Projects => Topic started by: dubstar on February 26, 2012, 12:00:59 pm
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Hi guys,
I've been meaning to start a thread for a little while now, but as I'm not that far on it won't be too hard to catch up! Let me give you a little background info. Basically, I've spent a year building a decent workshop with having another project car in mind. Workshop was complete just before Christmas, and so the project began! I've had a couple of VW's in the past, a Mk3 Polo GT which I loved, and a Mk3 Golf VR6 - which I also loved. There was a point where I had the VR6, my Bro had a Mk2 Golf Driver, Dad had a Scirrocco and Mum had a Mk1 Golf! It's safe to say i'm a VW man, even though at present i'm rocking my girlfriend's crap Fiesta. Needs must. I've still got some other toys too, so it's not all bad 8)
So last year my Bro left for New Zealand with a one way ticket, leaving behind his Mk1 Polo in storage. The long & short of it is that I told him I was taking it and if he wanted it back he's have to come & get it! Now he's quite attached to his Polo, but he's an easy going sort of chap so now it resides in my workshop, in bits! When I had the Mk3, I always fancied doing a G40 swap but the timing was never right. It is now though ;D
So here's the project outline:
I want to build a car for everyday use, something different & retro with enough poke to worry the latest crop of hot hatches. Nothing too race orientated although moderately uprated suspension is on the cards, and reliable. I (contrary to popular trend) like the pin-sharp braking feel of modern cars, so it's got to have bitchin' brakes. With all this in mind, here's a bulletpoint list of what I've got in mind. I could expand on each point, but i'm sure that'll happen thoughout the build. Obviously there is a lot more to each point than I'll go into here.
1979 Mk1 Polo
Seam welded engine bay & boot with chassis legs reinforced (mainly due to massive power hike)
Golf GTi brakes all round + Mk4/5 master cylinder & brake servo (with a nice large assistance ratio)
G40 front ARB & rear axle
Dropped 60/40 on uprated shocks but using OEM G40 mounts & bushes for a little compliance
G40 engine turbocharged using a K03 - all usual running gear & parts needed for this (aiming for 175bhp)
Complete Mk3 wiring loom change with Mk3 dashboard
14" steel jetta rims (the ones with the round holes)
Decent stereo (but nothing too brutal - I'm passed that stage in life now!)
That about covers it for now. On with the build.....!
(I'm not sure exactly how to attach pictures and get text underneath so there's going to be a little experimentation here!)
Anyway - check it out - here's the old girl's first glimpse of daylight in 18months when we pulled it out of storage from a barn in deepest darkest Lincolnshire! Then we lobbed her on a trailer, Manchester bound....
(http://)
I don't know how to insert images like everyone else does. My strengths lie in building cars, not web based forums!! somebody help me out here?????
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Sounds like you've got it all planned out, a mk1 polo in yellow is my dream car I've never seen one before!
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Liking the write up, looking forward to seeing this progress Ross... Think.I have a G40 arb in the unit... yours if you want it, 5speed arb will be required to get round the bell housing on a 5 speed box.
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Woop Woop! Nice to see a thread on this Ross, now moar pictures!
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How do me ode, good to see you finally stuck a thread up! Need to bang some of your Facialbook pics up here too methinks.
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Cheers boys, still experimenting with adding photos here so bear with me until I get into the swing.
so I threw it in the garage, pulled the bumpers off it & shiz then hit it with a wire brush on a grinder and it turns out the tin worm was worse than I thought. It's mostly passenger side, but it needs quite a bit. Sill, rear valance, A pillar patch, inner wing top patch, both front inner wings (where lights mount) outer wings both need patching and the front panel's shot. Great. Still, I'm not a stranger to a weld set or fabrication so that makes it a bit easier.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010103.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010102.jpg)
So the original plan went something like this - car the car in the workshop, pull the donkey out, launch a PY in and do a dry build cutting & shutting panels where I needed to before pulling it out and finishing the bodywork before I paint the boot & the 'bay and I get the outside professionally blown over. It's not quite gone like that, and as with all builds - the plan was altered. Pulled the donkster out - cheers for the crane lend Adam! (a Coupe S 1.3 & 5 speeder my Bro & I threw in the other year the sh1ts & giggles)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010108.jpg)
Sold that for a few quid and bought a low milage PY and some ancilaries from Saf, and a ATV 'box from Winston. Cheers boys!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010068.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010075.jpg)
Then got side tracked by the new bits & started an inspection strip of the PY, after finding out my MIG set (which had been in storage) now didn't work properly. In the knowledge the lump was a 62k 'er, I didn't want to rebuild the bottom end unless it needed it. Taking the head off revealed nice clean bores with hone marks still visable and whipping off a main cap showed pristine journals, so after a trip to the cleaning tank with the oil pickup, it was declared fit with a clean bill of health.
After a chat with Andy, the ode 268/268 Newman badbay was ordered, and I took the head a friend of mine (who happens to be a competition engine builder) and used his workshop to skim the head... (luckily, the one really jammed in spark plug came out leaving the thread it tact with a little heat & persuasion...)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_0357.jpg)
I cleaned up the valves, to find that the exhaust valves were a bit slim shady where they seat on the head (a bit concave)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_0359.jpg)
so armed with new exhaust valves, lifters, stem seals & turbo cam build it back up.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_0363.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_0364.jpg)
she's a MINTER. Thorough inspection showed no cracks in that head at all - lucky eh?
While this was going on, I was hacking about at lunchtimes patching up the best of the two wings. I've got the other one to do which will be harder as there is no corner left so no datum!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC02388.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC02398.jpg)
Right - got the hang of the whole pictures thing now, nice one. I'm a little further on than this so i'll grab the latest pics and update tomorrow with a bit of luck. Thanks to all that responded with my plea for web help!
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so in the last few days i've been trying to find the engine bay..... 33 years of grime had other ideas.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010120.jpg)
Half a tin of thinners and some high times in a non-ventiated area later, things were becoming clearer although it'll need to be much cleaner than that for paint!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010118.jpg)
Mum & Dad were up this weekend - Mum's good at sorting the garden out & entertaining my good lady which meant Dad & I spent some quality time in the workshop putting the head on & timing up the PY. The old crankcase breather was pretty asthmatic, so got another one from GSF for £11 and ended up making a tool to put it in with as I didn't have alot of success without it.
The timing markings on the crank pulley from the Coupe S (which I robbed before I sold it) were different to the twin Vee pulley from the PY so I marked the PY ones on it too. When we put it together, apart from having no dowls between the head & block (which confused us a bit and wound up in various phonecalls before marking it up central & torquing it down - as it seems most people do) true TDC, buy measuring the piston top to deck height ended up being pretty much bang on between the Coupe S & PY marks, so we slipped the belt on with it there. In fairness, with the cam pulley dot lining up with the cover mark, the crank is at true TDC exactly. All was well when we wound it round by hand, so job done! (unless you guys tell me any different?)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010127.jpg)
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Hardest bit of that to me sounds like making it feel like it has modern brakes! :D
I'd leave the Mk1 dash in if it were me. Far more old school.
Will be awesome when you've done it though and it looks like you are doing a proper job.
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never seen a mk3 head with dowels in it!
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Ow do Ross- you should stick some pics up of your Mini, if that's anything to go by, this should be a minter :)
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Cheers Yoof, nice of you to say.
Yes, I built a Mini from the ground up a while ago (which I still have) which has a full race 1380cc lump in it, pulling 126bhp @ 7200rpm, and fully adjustable suspension & all that jazz. It now sports a full carbon fibre front - which it didn't have when these pics were taken! It's a hoot to drive, although it's mega cammy with all that power. Throttle is more or less a switch - but at 625kg, she's a little giant killer! High days & Dry days car really - needs a good thraping at Oulton, but haven't got round to it yet. The time will come.
See my cheeky little GT in the background!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/PC240062.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/PC240065.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/mini2.jpg)
(It was only a pikey set of leads until the real deal came through!)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/PC240058.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/PC240066.jpg)
So anyway, back to Wolfsburg's finest. Have made a little progress. Bought some various bits & pieces to grease the build - a nice GT/G40 steering wheel came up so had that (although pretty low on the priority list at the moment!) and I happened upon a set of Bosch greens which i've been on the hunt for for a while, so snapped those puppies up too. They'll be off to PPP at some point in the near once they arrive for a clean up & flow test. Ordered a lower front panel piece to aid in the resurrection of the front panel too, as that's the only part you can get hold of unless you want to deal with Germany and get robbed for the privilege.
I torqued up the head to full tension the other day giving myself a nice big bruise on the leg to show for it, lifted it off the bench and started bolting on some of the cleaned up ancillaries back on it. It's looking pretty good - i'm pleased. A friend of mine, Mat, at http://www.thedubdepot.co.uk/ hooked me up with a Mk4 dizzy, and a pair of rear stubbies of a Mk2 Golf GTi too, so that was a fruitful visit. Bought a new cap & rotor arm and after a trip to the parts washer got it fitted, she's a beaut.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010129.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010130.jpg)
So with the lump ticking along nicely, and knowing my good lady is going away with the University for a couple of weeks at the end of March, my attention has turned to getting the body ready for some hardest-core fab 'n' weld action. My thinking being, while she's away I can pull some late nighters and try and break the back of the bodywork without stopping to 'put a wash on' or 'vacuum upstairs' - BONUS.
Popped into work this weekend and knocked up four axle stands. Yes - I could of bought them from Halfords for 40 quid - but where's the fun in that? Anyway, some suppliers gifted me the material so 40 quid saved gets spent on the Mk1!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010128.jpg)
So today was spent hoisting up the Mk1 to new & untold heights for easy access for putting the new sills on & such.
SORTED!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010132.jpg)
Then, thinking logically I smoothed a quick list together and set about said list.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010134-1.jpg)
Removal of the exhaust & tank saw me getting a better look at what's going down underneath. I knew one side (passenger side) was a lot worse than the other, but getting under there with a torch & big bits removed showed that the rear chassis legs at their lowest point have been patched on both sides - it's not a bad job, if you're Stevie Wonder. In fact, the back of the rear sill where it meets the wheel arch is all patchwork & bog too. She's had a good few patch jobs over the years! No matter, I'm gonna cut the lot out & do it properly. Back to basics styles.
Then it was Sunday beer with the boys o'clock. If I pull my finger out and get some of the other repair panels before next weekend, I might start some some cutty-cutty weldy-weldy grindy-grindy action in next weekend....
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Got my panels, sorted a MIG set and some scrap sheet steel, borrowed some joggle pliers & other bits & pieces. First off job was to complete the dismantling list. During the week I dropped the rear axle and front suspension assy so i'd have a head start this weekend.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010135.jpg)
Then I turned around and couldn't move for all the stuff in the workshop, so spent a while clearing out & re-organsing before moving said axles & pulling out the interior. I'm leaving the dash in for now as the bulkhead, battery tray & front valance (if that's the name of the panel below the windscreen - I should know really) are sound, and when I swap it for the Mk3 item I want to do it in one go so I don't forget how it all goes together (or how the original did) Anyway, I've nowhere to store it, so be rate where it is!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010136.jpg)
I've got a sill and an arch for this side - I wanted a inner wing top repair panel (which was in stock on their webshite, but wasn't in reality) so I'll have to fab a piece up for that. The first picture below is looking at the front edge of the rear arch, where it meets the sill, N/S. The second, of the rear edge.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010137.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010138.jpg)
Not great. The Nearside is a proper patchwork, the offside however, is as near perfect as you could ask for a 33 year old vehicle.
I could of stopped there for the day, but my battery drill was on the floor winking at me so I cracked out the spot weld drill and starting unpicking a few along the top edge of the sill. Moments later it was joined by close friends such as Mr 4.5" angle grinder & Buzz, the pneumatic saw and we has ourselves a bit of a party. Turns out the inner sill is rusted through too in places, so I'll have to sheet some pieces up for that too and remember to brace the floorpan tomorrow before I cut all the strength away!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010139.jpg)
Bodywork. Deep Joy.
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Good effort! As you saw on Facebook - I'm taking the easy way out!
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That mini is incredible! Do you have a build thread for that? Polo looks good mate, my eyes will be pinned to this if its to the same standard as the mini great job
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Thanks guys. Etches - No, I've never done a build thread before so I'm afraid the finished product is all you get with that. Appreciate your comments though.
Well, i'm going to cut to the chase - she's pretty damn rotten. You know when you're cutting good metal away to get to the bad metal behind it that it's not going to be plain sailing. In fact, (although being very cautious and making sure I've not cut all my datums away) i've cut SO much out it's a bit depressing. Turns out both arches have had the lips replaced & filled at some point too, so they'll both need doing again (to make it spot on.)
Outer sill was obviously knackered - standard. Inner sill: patchy at best, Floor: will need a small patch along the edge, Chassis leg (off inner to sill to rear axle mounting): New one required. OK, I know people have tackled much worse, but in honesty this is stretching my capabilities. It doesn't help at this stage looking around the rest of the shell and only seeing loads more nightmares. Anyway, one thing at a time eh? So here's how far I've chopped back - it's the minimum I could get away with.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10100863.jpg)
This next picture is halfway through the cutting process - see the 'knacked inner sill & floor and inner rear quarter before I cut the rust away to find clean metal
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010140.jpg)
I looked at the patched chassis leg and umm'ed & ahh'ed and thought sod it, it's not a bad patch and it can't be seen, so i'll put some better welds on it and let it be - until I hit it with a grinder to find metal and it went straight through. Balls. So that came off too, but not before I put a datum hole in along the inner sill, made a long contoured patch to reconstruct the inner sill flange back to the start of the arch and tacked what was left of the original leg to it. Then I copied my contoured patch onto some thicker 16swg zintec (a coated steel) so I could make a new leg at work.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10100912.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010097.jpg)
So as you can see, forward of where the axle mounts we have roughly sod all at the minute.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10100902.jpg)
At present, I'm halfway through making the new leg. As it's looking now, it'll lap over the axle mount plate so I can turn my MIG set up to 'Chernobyl' and muller in a couple of decent welds on my nice thick 16swg to keep it all in check. No point in having a rear ARB if the whole tub's moving around!! Should be ok, I just went in thinking I was putting on a new sill and now i'm doing loads of structural stuff - bit of a shock that's all. Need to keep up the momentum as I can see me getting a bit bogged down by the whole situation if I'm not careful. I want to get into the fun stuff later on in the build, now!
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Realy impressive work here!! Whered you learn how to do all this as im hopeless when it comes to structural body work but id like to get stuck in woth a project like this on a mk2 derby. are you a fabricator by trade?? Or you picked it up doing the mini?
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Cheers pal. Well I did a three year apprenticeship in fabrication and weld, which helps quite a bit. I'm off the shop floor these days but my job enables me to keep my hand in, throw my playsuit on and get out into the workshop now and again so I've kept my hand in and got run of the fab shop at work too. Put outer sills, front panel & rear valance on the Mini and patched a few other bits neatly, but it was a '94 shell so in much better knick than the Polo. The trick is not to cut so much away that you don't know where the new metal should go to. Put in datums, take measurements & photo's + make patterns. Be methodical. That said, I'm no master at it!
So I got back from work early today after a meeting off site ended quicker than I thought it would, so before I head out later I thought I'd get out there as I'm away this weekend so this maybe the only chance I get (apart from maybe shoehorning a cheeky hour or two in Sunday night.) I finished the new chassis leg at work yesterday, so pinning it up using my datum put in once I'd welded my first profile plate to the original leg (1/8" drill bit next to the mole grips furthest the the right) and making sure the bottom sill flange was straight and it mated up with the axle mount plate, broke out the MIG set for the umpteenth time in it's life, tacked it up all round, double checked and hit it FULL FORCE, BABY.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10100992.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10101012.jpg)
BOOM! new chassis leg.
I'll dress it a bit where needed, but not going to do much as A) it can't be seen / B) metal off is strength off. Glad I've done the first bit. Now I can put the inner rear quarter panel back, fab a bit to extend it where the tin worm got & tie it into the new inner sill then start patching up the edge of the floor & inner sill and I can put the outer sill on and tackle the first rear arch & rear valance.
Don't worry folks, I'll not put pictures up of every bit of patching as it would become very boring quickly!
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YES BAD MAN!! Ross loving what I'm seein here! Need to get over n check out progress soon!
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Yeahman - call round! I see you're trying to get into a Mk1 again - you know it makes sense.
Patched the floor during the week...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10101362.jpg)
& today I cut out the lower half of the inner sill,
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10101392.jpg)
& made good with new zintec steel. I had to drill out the spot welds for the seat runner and take that out to do the floor, and some of the metal round there was tin-foil thickness, so ended up cutting half of that out too. Not easy to re-fab, that part.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P10101402.jpg)
So during the weekend I need to connect & weld the rear inner quarter panel to the inner sill, & patch the front at the base of the 'A' pillar and then I can get on with fitting the outer sill - at last!
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Hi guys -sorry for the long time since the update, this could be a recurring theme! Still plodding with the bodywork and as i've said before I don't want to just cram the pages of this thread with rust.
So basically, sorted the inner sill and connected inner rear quarter panel to inner sill once more then threw some primer & paint on it...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010141-1.jpg)
Then my attentions turned the base of the A pillar - or lack of...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010143.jpg)
Once again what I thought would be a quick patch on the outer skin turned out to be rot into the floorpan & shiz, so it was back to basics once again...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010144.jpg)
...then a bit of re-constructive surgery to make a face for the sill to be welded to. If I was an actual surgeon - i'd be paid good money for this sh1t!!!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010145.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010146.jpg)
Cool cool. So I was at a point where the whole bottom 2" of the passenger side from the rear of the front arch had been replaced.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010149.jpg)
So then I spent what seemed like ages doing a Karate kid impression - sill on, sill off, (grind a bit) sill on, sill off, (grind a bit) sill on, sill off (grind a bit) - you get the picture, doing that until I had a perfect fit. A colleague at work warned me only to tack it on for a check first until I hung the door to check the gaps. Following his advice (and remembering the same deal with the Mini a few years ago) I tacked her up and hung the door...
Nowhere near. I'm not even posting pictures of that!!!! 10mm gap at the hinge end of the door, touching the door bottom at the other. I shut the door to the garage for a week and gave it a rest, quite disheartened.
One positive came out of it though - the vertical door gaps were still bob-on, so my supporting of the floor had worked and all that replacement of metal and heat with all the welds hadn't changed the WB of the car! Billy Bonus.
In fairness, it was a good thing to leave it that week. I'm one of these chaps who likes to think about things over time before carrying things out, and when I went back into the garage a week later, the answer to sort the situation came to me pretty quickly. Long & short of it - nice 5mm gap right down the door now. It only needed tweaking in the right manner - but these things only EVER need tweaking.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010151.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010153.jpg)
Anyway - enthusiasm is back now, so I'm smoothing about with the rear arch now. It's been done before but that long ago, the 'new' lip is rusting away! Seriously, this repair must be 20 years old.
So I've taken some measurements of the width of the flange from the new arch &, pulled all the bog out of the repair, drawn a cut line and started cutting it back. Turns out the inner rear arch is pretty rotten, as is the edge of the rear valance
Here we go again...!!!!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010155.jpg)
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looking good ross, i wouldnt mind a look at the pictures of all your repair pieces and various welding shots and its all good food for thought for how im going to tackle my yellow un!
luckily my mk1s in far better condition than the Mk2!
need to bob over to yours mind and see this beasty in the flesh!
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Superb fabrication going into this!
Look like you have a decent MIG plant? Must help a lot, the only MIG we have in our unit is a basic jobbie with two switches for heat contro, it's not ideal.
I need to show my mate this thread to make him feel bad about Princess...
(http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg607/1272works/Project%20alison%205/IMG_2703.jpg)
Yes thats a mk1 polo under all that shit! :(
To be fair though, I doubt we could get all that shit stored in that space if it wasn't in a polo!
I Like your axle stands! Im thinking of modifying mine with some m30 stud bar to be like pipe stands with finite adjustment. so as to be able to level the car.
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Cheers pal, thanks. Yeah, got a big single phase industrial set. Makes all the difference tbh - small sets tend not to be as smooth or consistent but saying that I did my Mini on a much smaller set and got away with it.
Good idea on the axle stand front - thought about doing that myself but didn't have the bar to hand. Definitely helps level it up on an uneven surface. Actually, you'd only need to do it to one of the four stands working on the principle that it'll always sit on three of them and the adjustable forth one would take out any height difference. Might do that to one of mine!!
Another yellow Mk1! Yes tell him to get on the case!
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So it’s been a busy few months here. Lots of weddings and a state-side trip taking up weeks & weekends, plus the fact I’d run out of puff on the polo, and as we all know once you stop it needs a kickstart to get going again. So with the wedding season out of the way and all my holidays used up, I started thinking about getting back out into the workshop & ‘getting MIGgy with it’ in an effort to nail some more of the Mk1 back together.
Last weekend I loaded up our Doris and the camping gear into the daily shagger and went to BVF, and what do you know? – they were doing special offers on family sized cans of WHOOP-ASS, and buy one get one free on inspiration & motivation!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010202.jpg)
So coming back armed with enthusiasm, I set to on the rear wheel arch again. A night later after the long and boring process of – clamp on, check, mark, unclamp, grind and repeat several times, it was looking good to tack on. So the night after I stopped um’ing & ahh’ing and put my MIG where my mouth is. Centralised it, clamped inner to outer arch and threw a few tacks on. DONE.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010207.jpg)
Not right though. When I’d first put the sill on (pattern sill) I remember thinking to myself – hmm, not a lot of curve in that where the new arch meets sill. Turns out I was right. Where the new outer arch met the sill there was basically a break & point where what really needs to be there is a nice smooth curve. In fairness, it doesn’t help when I have no datum to work to. The other side is just as bad and full of bog, so I can’t even use a profile gauge to check it’s right.
Anyway, after a sulk and downing tools for the evening, I had a think about it, took some advice from the body lads at work and pulled the arch off the next night, did some pedigree chum style ‘choicest cuts’ on the sill to graduate the transition of the panels a bit more and now it’s got a curve as smooth as Kim Kardashian’s 'arris. BOOM! Subtle difference, but the difference between a skim of filler & a sh1tload (and more importantly, lots of added weight.)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010208.jpg)
Meanwhile, I’ve been busy at work too doing a resurrection on the L/H wing. Where as the R/H wing wasn’t too bad, the L/H side had whole corners missing so no datums to use. Again, in the depths of despair and after seriously contemplating GRP wings from Germany instead, some advice & encouragement from some of the lads at work seeing me struggle gave me a boost, and I’m hoping to box that off tomorrow. I’ll also plate up the aerial hole too, as I’m going to treat myself to a DAB head unit for this one, which use a different aerial all together.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC02977.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC02978.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC03021.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC03023.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC03026.jpg)
Rust sorted, just that aerial hole to patch now. I love it when a plan comes together.
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Good work!
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nice progress mate - and good to meet you at bvf
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If you need any more encouragement, read this - it could be worse!
http://www.met-alchemy.com/sunbeamlotusprototypepge1.htm (http://www.met-alchemy.com/sunbeamlotusprototypepge1.htm)
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Cheers Pete - ditto, had a great weekend all round! Might see you at Tatton if you're going....?
Thanks Andy - Yeah, it's one of those isn't it. No matter how bad you think things are, someone has it worse!!!
-
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010210.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010212.jpg)
Progress. Just need to spot weld the arch & sill flanges then do a bit of Olympic sequence welding and 1 quarter of the shell (minus removable panels!) is rust free!!!
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skills ;D
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Finished the 14" Jetta rim refurb at work (mucho de-scaling & rubbing down) then they got fr-fr-fr-fr-freshened up with some Mercedes 'Iridium Silver' paint and a generous coating of laquer..... It's a bit darker than your average wheel silver with a bit of a dark flip in it (the flash didn't bring it up that well), and I reckon it's gonna look mint 8) well chuffed. I'll get into some R14/185/50's in Yoko's A539 compound later on in the project. Planning on just crowning them with the original Mk1 hubcaps (in the true sense of the word) and black wheelnut caps.
RET-RO!!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC03175.jpg)
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Yes my son. I'm liking the way this is going, correct tyre choice too! ;-P
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Cheers Andy - I've always been a fan of A539's, had them on my GT and have got them on my Mini too and it corners like a housefly ;)
So I've made some progress and spot welded the sills top & bottoms + finished all the sequence stitch welding and grinding around the whole of the rear corner. This was signified by the standard spray of primer across the finished areas!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010242.jpg)
How satisfying.
I went out tonight to have a look at starting the next corner on the hit list (front left) and first up was a nasty couple of holes on the front face of the 'A' pillar, where (on a Mk1 at least) a 'Z' shape piece of metal bolts to, which holds the back edge of the front wing. The problem was, that the whole front surface had been made thinner by surface rust right across the whole face. Wanging a finger through the hole seemed to find sound metal on the back face but the front face was badly pitted. I've seen & tried welding to this metal before, and most of the time hitting it with a MIG weld obliterates it, and you end up with a larger hole than you started with and chasing it around before giving up, cutting out and replacing the whole panel.
So I was concerned. I only wanted to replace the front face in it entirety as a last resort as the metal is still thick enough and the holes small enough to patch - if it'll take. Nevertheless, it was the next hole round and so the next to be tackled.
For the first time on this bodyshell, things went my way. I cleaned the pitted metal up locally with a wire-brush cup on my grinder (violent thing, but doesn't half clean sh1t up!) made a patch, let it in & held it with magnets, crossed my fingers and hit it gingerly with the MIG. It took, patches done, 'A' pillar finished, bish bash bosh. I'll rust kill the rest of the face tomorrow. What could of taken a month (with the amount of time I get to spend on the project) took an hour.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010230-1.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010232.jpg)
Anyway with my good luck used up it's time to get into inner front wing and front panel. Lot's to go at there - it looks bad from the outset so I can't see there being many surprises there!
first picture is a view from the 'A' pillar looking towards the front LH corner...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010233.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010235.jpg)
It's looking like I'll get a bit of time this weekend, knowing me most of it will be used as thinking time working out what order to do it in and what to remove first! As the saying goes.... measure twice, cut once.
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So last weekend I made a start on the inner wing top (the face the outer wing bolts to) as there were some pieces rotted away & such. I patched it up, as 75% of it was 'aight and it was simple enough to let some bits in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010235-1.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010236.jpg)
Then got back today (Sunday) early afternoon to finish off what I'd started in the week and pulled it back from this....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010238.jpg)
to this!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010245.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010247.jpg)
I'm making progress with the front end.
Our lass is away this week, so I'm hoping to get the other side to the same state - as it looks in slightly better nick to start with anyway (arguably - let's see what the grinder reveals; as you know, it's not been very kind so far) then I can shut the new lower front panel on next weekend. THEN, my friends, I can see the light at the end of the bodywork tunnel!!!! (of course when I say this, I'm only talking about getting it back to being a solid shell. I'm leaving out all the other stuff like stitch welding the legs & turrets, welding in seat mounts and messing about with the bulkhead for massive servo action.)
In other news, a while ago I picked up a Passat configuration K03 for the build. It never looked great to me - bit dirty, some bolts missing which hold the cold side ally housing on, and the odd sheared stud - but for £36 I wasn't arguing, I can sort it for that. Anyway, reading Yoof's thread and seeing the troubles he had with his Garrett AiResearch monster and the route cause, I revisited said turbocharger for another look....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010253.jpg)
Mr. 'Slightly bent blade end' looks like it would make it wail like an ambulance and not achieve the boost I'm looking for. Who knows. Anyway, it was enough for me to sack it off in my own mind and look for another when one popped up - which it did this weekend and I won for 41 notes on eBay! S'all good, as I wanted a sh1tter I could play with anyway as I'm not going the rothe route - not enough space for a decent FMIC on the Mk1 so I've got other plans - watch this space, bit of R&D coming your way! Hopefully this one will be a bit better. Fingers crossed - it's looks all good and it's not a chinese copy. If it's not I'll try and construct one good one of the two. Shouldn't come to that.
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YEAHMAN - new turbo's a beaut ;D £41 well spent. She'll easy be rate, so I'm pleased with that. Gives me some spare components too if 'sh1t' ever turns to 'happens'.
On the body front I've patched the top of the drivers side inner arch - it turned out to be mid-way between better & worse than I thought it would be (Meh.) so that's sorted too now.
Long & short of it is that I'm now onto the front panel. So I measured the vehicle centreline and looked where to shut it in, which will be just below the row of spot welds fixing the inner & outer together, defined my my sketchy blue line...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010268.jpg)
Then I attacked it with a slitting disc and began to remove it in sections. Believe it or not, I found filler down here too. This car must literally be 3mm longer & wider with all the filler I've found. FFS. Anyway, the fecking lot's coming out, as you already know.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010271.jpg)
So the central section of the inner panel will be ok and came up 'aight with my cup brush on the ode angle grinder after this picture was taken, but both sides need patching - standard :-\ so I've patterned, cut out & tacked in the first side - will hopefully do a bit more a bit more tomorrow. The 'first' side I've done is the passenger side (LH) and it's all a bit strength critical there as inner inner panel I'm shutting into forms part of the engine mount 'box' where all the panels meet so I've done a good deal of prep and stabbing with a screwdriver to make sure it's all sound down there. It is, luckily. While I'm in there though, I'll STITCH IT UP GOOD!
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Alright, cool - so here's the deal.
Patched the inner front panel after taking all the old spot welds out then hit it with primer and paint. As it's boxed in, it just needed protecting from the elements. Then I shut the front panel up to it - all gravy. The next thing to do was to have a decent look at the sides of the front panel, below the headlamp cavities and above the new lower panel. Once I'd hit it with my trusty cup-brush it looked like this.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010283.jpg)
It look 'aight from the outside if you squinted, but from the inside...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010282.jpg)
Na-uh. It's coming off. So I got my lop-saw out.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010284.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010285.jpg)
I made two patches, as both sides needed doing. so I cracked on and to cut a long story short got the first side tacked up. It doesn't look like the light-lines match up but I can assure you they do.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010290.jpg)
Sweet. Then I did the other side too. Part of the original face where the outer wing will butt against it remains on this side, so I only shut the front piece in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010292.jpg)
Before I weld the whole shi-bang up (lower front panel and both side patches) I'm going to hang both doors and newly patched outer wings, front grille and bumper. The last thing I want is to piece it all together after it's been painted looking like it's had a stroke. It'll be a major line-up / cut & shut sesh to get it all picture-perfect. I'm not looking forward to it, It was a nightmare with the Mini.
Anyway, here's how it looks at present...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010296.jpg)
Then I set about stitch welding up the chassis leg & suspension turret on the L/H side, also strengthening the gearbox mount. Unfortunately, all the gobbo (also know as weld-through primer - fine with spot welds, not so much with MIG stitching) and underseal melts as soon as you hit it with a welder, making it very hard to pull off nice tidy welds. Maybe you don't have that problem with shoddy Spanish built Mk3's but Wolfsburg when a bit mental with the whole e-coating & sealing on the Mk1. It's a pity they didn't role out that philosophy to the edges!!!
Smokin' !
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010289.jpg)
One side all done...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010295.jpg)
Chassis leg strengthening A LA Yoof...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010294.jpg)
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Nice project mate mini looks great cant wait to see it done
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Hi Guys, happy new year :)
So after a bit of a break (and tinkering with the Mini over Christmas) I thought I'd best get on with the Polo. So before Crimble I'd finished strengthening up both chassis legs and stitching the engine bay. I hung the doors & wings and then altered the bottom of each wing (from my initial patches early on in the build) to get the fit as best I could to the new lower half of the front panel (not being a bodywork man really) and I'm pleased with the result. Any small differences there are will easily be rectified with minimal filling.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010320_zps7fe7778b.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010305_zps0d6dd8ae.jpg)
So along with the doors & wings, I dressed it with headlamps (+ took the opportunity to re-drill the holes that were in the metal I'd replaced) grille - again, putting the retaining slots back in the new metal and hung the bumper too.
Then checking there were no chavs & scallies about, swung open the big garage door briefly so I could look at it head on and make sure it all looked straight & true before fully welding up the new lower front panel.
She's a little minter....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010318_zps7ad19fa7.jpg)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010315_zps4bf410ab.jpg)
So I'm happy enough with that. The eagle eyed of you will notice that as we look at it, there's a larger gap between the grille & bumper top on the left-hand side (once the bumper is hung.) I'm not worried about that - it's a bumper setting issue. once I took the bumper off & checked it again it was all sound, and it measures up the same each side.
Doing this has posed a question though. My plan was to run the original grille & bumper combo with a Mk1 golf GTi duck-bill spoiler below. But It might look pretty sweet with just the grille & duck-bill....
This raises a few issues though. 1) What would I do with the back, as it's a bit pig-ugly without the bumper there? 2) Any imperfections in my repaired front panel would stand out a mile, so it would have to be bob-on. Don't get me wrong folks - it's not far off but it's not a brand new panel, as it's easier to get hold of rocking horse sh1t.
Will probably revert to plan 'A' and run with all the original kit. It's what I had planned in the first place. That bumper weighs a tonne though. There's a massive steel member behind the plastic exterior, so it might get put on an intense diet before it goes back on.
Yeah man, I'm pleased. So I've stripped it back down and have started to fully weld on the lower front panel. Once that's done, there's only a few finishing bits to do on this side before turning it round and getting on the home straight!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010316_zps70baf34f.jpg)
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Looks sweet, amazing how a pair of lights and grill make it looks almost complete.
What's that awesome piece of engineering resting on those steel wheels?? :D
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Haha yeah - makes me want to throw an engine in it and call it a ratty!!!
Hey, y'all can't f%ck with BL's finest 5 porter! ;) Just a head to dimension for some draughting work I'm doing.
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Yeah that's right guys, the last post was in January. Dang. The good news is, i've sorted the bathroom since then and done a whole lot of other work which keeps our Lass happy too, so I can now update you with the Polo and what's been going down.
So I turned it round. Now it's easy street - lets tart up the 'good side' then throw the engine at it for a dry build! This should be easy, this side is much better; besides, i've been using this drivers side as a datum for the passenger side.
It didnt take long to be thrown back into the depths of despair (and blaming my brother for gifting me a sh1tter.) In fairness, Jess sat me down and told me i'd done too much to scrap it (although I felt like it) so the build continues in the same way - cutting it all out, doing it right.
Picture time. So upon tackling the 'good side' I brushed a grinder across the panels to find out how much bog was kicking about...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010025_zpsb1443825.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010025_zpsb1443825.jpg.html)
Turns out a lot more than I thought and suddenly my 'datum' was looking a bit shakey. Anyway, the inner sill was fine on this side but the front of the outer was a bit gnarley. The whole lots didnt need replacing, so I just shut the front portion in instead.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010019_zps30a27ee2.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010019_zps30a27ee2.jpg.html)
A tiny section of floor needed patching - no great shakes.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010018_zps8076ffac.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010018_zps8076ffac.jpg.html)
Hey - there's nothing new here, I did the other side too - BOOM! (and the rust was gone.)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010020_zps24b71f2c.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010020_zps24b71f2c.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010024_zps40cf0987.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010024_zps40cf0987.jpg.html)
Anyway, that was a bit of fun compared to the next bit. Without going into war & peace (which I'm sure a lot of you think this is anyway!!) where it's fair to say I didnt need to replace the inner sill on this side, it still had it's own set of nightmares which involved cutting good metal away to get to the bad stuff behind. Here we go again.
So basically I wound up cutting a whole corner off again after finding such delights as these on closer inspection....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010032_zps713d0be6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010032_zps713d0be6.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010033_zps9f452e35.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010033_zps9f452e35.jpg.html)
and wound up with this. Yeah - only cut this much away when you know where your datums are. Mine is the new inner sill flange you see. It all starts & ends there. New chassis legs goes to it on the inside, inner & outer sill go to it on the outside.
Thought it was best to support the floor at this point!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010036_zps58c3e81e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010036_zps58c3e81e.jpg.html)
I cut this rascal out first (good metal to get to bad behind it) knowing she'd go back in easy enough.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010034_zpsc42f532d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010034_zpsc42f532d.jpg.html)
Then I caught a cheeky glimpse of the other chassis leg I'd made for the first side and it spurred me on boys, it spurred me on.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010029_zpsb00f5137.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010029_zpsb00f5137.jpg.html)
So I knocked out this BEAUT.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010047_zpsd5d3b068.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010047_zpsd5d3b068.jpg.html)
But as when looking at the axle mounting plate it was blistering with rust a bit, I had to cut some of that away too! And more importantly, put something proper solid back in and make sure it all ties together. One of those plates in there is high-tensile. I know this because it turns out you can't weld to it! Lukily I didnt need to it was ok, but I slammed it a 3mm brace piece to make sure shiz was tied up nice & tight before capping it off with the leg. You can see what I cut out of the mount plate in this picture, and the 3 mil badboy. I dont f*ck about.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010041_zps23706315.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010041_zps23706315.jpg.html)
Yeah, so things were coming on and slowly sh-aye's coming solid again after years of neglect. Well, maybe not neglect. When these repairs were done it wasn't a classic so no-one really cared if there were a couple of cheap year's motoring in the bargin! You see, the problem is that as it's been patched - twice on this side too, my repair panel wasn't big enough as they'd obviously used the same one in the past!! So I cut it out, and extended my new repair panel upwards...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/photo8_zps55b1da8f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/photo8_zps55b1da8f.jpg.html)
And with the inside sorted, it was time to crack on with the outside starting with the patchwork quit which is the inner rear-quarter panel. Once that was made good, then I could weld the good metal I cut out, back in!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010042_zps54229a62.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010042_zps54229a62.jpg.html)
YEAHMAN - now we're getting somewhere. Could probably ditch the floor-supporting jack but nuts to that - it's doing no harm and i've got other stuff to do!
In order to make the inner wing/arch, I need to have the outer on so I can pattern up for it or i'd wind up in all sorts of strife. So first port of call is getting down & dirty with the section of sill which needs to go on, which also forms the bottom of the rear arch. So this need to be spot bollock or the pattern I made won't fit and it'll look shite and need loads of bog to sort it out.
So I lengthened the top of it so it gets passed the old repair panel which you already know. As this repair panel has obviously been pressed more times than 'The Sun' the tooling is worn and although the panel fits, the style line doesnt match. It's about 5mm out. So I shut the panel 5mm below the style line to bring it down so it matches up. Usually, this would be a bit dodge as the panel would bow when you weld it up but as the cut is so close to the pressed line, the altering coutours of the panel give it strength. So that, + some sequence welding interspersed with a coffee break so it cooled between bursts resulted in a good job. You can see the sliver I cut out which I'm holding in my hand...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010044_zps7de82c75.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010044_zps7de82c75.jpg.html)
So in order to pattern up for the shut panel in the inner wing, I tacked the outer in place - she's looking good. A straight edge reveals all is well and the sill is in the right position.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010045_zps04198061.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010045_zps04198061.jpg.html)
you can see the reminiscence of patter fodder on the floor too - here's the shut panel. Tomorrow, that ripper'll become steel (as if by magic) and then I can put the outer sill on for real!
Here's the pattern in place. Pizza boxes make THE BEST pattern material! (Yeah I know, I still need to patch above it for the 'tank breather - but that's easy!)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010046_zps035db1f7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010046_zps035db1f7.jpg.html)
You know what? Soon, this thing'll be ready for paint :-)
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Epic work Ross! Glad Jess gave you the pep talk you needed, would've been a shame to weigh-in something with so much potential and so many hours in it. ;D
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Just been through the whole thread again, great stuff! So looking forward to seeing this in the metal.
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Thanks guys :)
Reckon i'm going back to work for a rest after this! Been cracking on while motivation is high and time is free. What a combo eh?
So as predicted, said cardboard pattern became steel and got welded in, not without tribulation, as welding to tin foil is tough! Got passed that though and found some good stuff in the end.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010048_zps2f3b0517.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010048_zps2f3b0517.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010050_zps21da6463.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010050_zps21da6463.jpg.html)
So in time honored fashion, the steel used is ZINTEC steel, which is coated for corrosion resistance (but not quite galvanised, as you can't weld to that - well, not well anyway) and once welded in, the welds got treated to etch primer, then the whole lot normal metal primer before a top coat of black. Granted, these are not the prettiest of welds, but they are strong, and metal is there when before there was none - so i'll take that! Anyway, I save the neat stuff for the outside ;)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010055_zps2c6588ef.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010055_zps2c6588ef.jpg.html)
Same griff with the inner sill parts, after sealing up the inner arch panel to inner rear quarter....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010054_zps5feaddc7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010054_zps5feaddc7.jpg.html)
Did a couple of inner repairs too where tin worm had got through - nothing drastic but needed doing none the less.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010056_zps81cbf5f3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010056_zps81cbf5f3.jpg.html)
Then she was ready for some outer panel tack-on action! All that work right from cutting the chassis leg out & building it up just to get to this point. Dang brother!
So I made the outer fit on a while ago as you saw (shaped, lengthened & cut to fit) but I had to weld on a couple of bolts on the outside to use as leverage to pull it all into place, as these things seldom just sit into place naturally. The trick is to make sure the panel you're pulling to is stronger, so only the repair piece changes shape so to match the original car.
The worry at this point, is that you tack it into place but the overall shape of the panel is wrong. It's a one way trip ladies & gents (unless you fancy cutting out all your work again - no thanks!) and having cut the outer arch away, technically my datum has gone (where the repair panel meets the old arch.) As the arch was scrap too, that had to come off.
It's all about doing things in order. Be methodical - not like a did earlier in the build when I put the sill on the first time!! (It's easy to say now eh?!) So I had actually lined & checked my outer panel against the arch before I cut it away and made marks to suit. Nothing magical about that really, it's just time consuming and takes time to think about the best way to do things BEFORE picking up the grinder!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010058_zpsf5853646.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010058_zpsf5853646.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010060_zpsa8049b1a.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010060_zpsa8049b1a.jpg.html)
The pictures don't help it really - neither do three different colours and bog everywhere above in the original panel, but I can tell you that it looks right and rubbing your hand across the joints sees them all smooth, as all the outer panels are all joggled and lap-jointed to minimize distortion. Note the section of outer arch missing, revealing the inner arch which needs a new lip welding on for the outer to butt up to. That's the next job - cut way the rest of the arch and make the new repair arch panel fit. I can then clamp this up and use it to pattern the inner pieces to. I plan to do what I did on the other side - use bits of good metal on the outer arch you see now as inner pieces. Pre-formed free repair panels!
Anyway, workshop needs a tidy first - it's getting ridiculous in here.
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Looking good man!
Seems like everything will be easy after this ;D Who's going to paint it?
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Haha yeah thanks!
Definately fed up of bodywork - so hard to get motivated to do it. Will be easier when I get to doing all the fun stuff and a bit of dev. Can't wait mate. Not long now.
As far as paint goes, I think the saying goes 'you don't have a dog & bark yourself' if you catch my drift.
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Christmas has been pretty kind to me. I've done a deal over work over the festive period, and as a result this rear arch is the last major thing I have to do before more interesting jobs come up. Ok first I've got seat bars to weld in and a bulkhead to modify for the servo but that's fun as it's changing things & making new stuff that was never meant to be there - not replacing like for like stuff that's rotted away with the sands of time (and repairing bodge jobs of old!) That said, it looked ok when I first got it. Hiding a multitude of sins.
Anyway, with the sill tacked up I pulled the rest of the arch off and had a look at the rear RH corner to see what was going down in there....
balls.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010067_zps36d0d59c.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010067_zps36d0d59c.jpg.html)
but after clearing away the crud, a bit of tickling up and decisive cutting it looked a lot easier to tackle.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010068_zps229706ad.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010068_zps229706ad.jpg.html)
better.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010070_zps488a80ce.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010070_zps488a80ce.jpg.html)
then Jess came in and brought me a brew. Nice one!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010072_zpse37e1a2e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010072_zpse37e1a2e.jpg.html)
Then I did a quick bit of patching the inner arch. Forward of the blue arrow, it's all bad. at least 60% of the original inner arch is ok once these patches were added.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010071_zps5cebcce0.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010071_zps5cebcce0.jpg.html)
And now I've cut it all back and made sense of it, I made a start with the patches. S'all good. All the other rusty bits are just surface stuff, so it's nothing to worry about. I'll treat the lot when the time comes.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010073_zps1752c17e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010073_zps1752c17e.jpg.html)
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Got the rear corner welded up, then cut & shaped the arch. It had to be in two pieces of I physically couldn't get it in place!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010094_zpsc8cd21e1.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010094_zpsc8cd21e1.jpg.html)
then replaced the inner arch with some new pieces. This was a right tw@t of a job. As described earlier I used old outer arch pieces to form the new inner pieces but I had to shut them about and put the new outer on & off to see if the profiles were right or not. Mission. Anyway - sorted it and gave it some etch primer inside & out.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010107_zpsb4a394ec.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010107_zpsb4a394ec.jpg.html)
clamped it all up gently for a look....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010089_zps50e44d0a.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010089_zps50e44d0a.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010091_zps58160d8d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010091_zps58160d8d.jpg.html)
Nice. Then I prep'd the first part. Holes for the puddle welds, joggled for the lap joints - the strongest type which keep the most rigidity in your panel, and the E coat ground off so the weld takes. But first, it needed extending 5mm. I got a little bit excited with the grinder earlier. ffs.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010108_zpse781094f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010108_zpse781094f.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010109_zpsba7e4ea0.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010109_zpsba7e4ea0.jpg.html)
All tacked in place...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010110_zps4bf34433.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010110_zps4bf34433.jpg.html)
Prepping the rear portion - a cheeky extension where the original pressing stretched the edge out of shape...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010111_zps61a22bf7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010111_zps61a22bf7.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010112_zps9b015d59.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010112_zps9b015d59.jpg.html)
It's all looking good, so slotted that badboy in place and let my MIG do the talking. Well, tacking anyway.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010113_zps7b487d2e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010113_zps7b487d2e.jpg.html)
And there we are Polo friends. The rest of this week is taken up with life stuff and next week I'm getting my SHRED on in the alps, but I achieved what I wanted to before I go. When I get back, it's a weekend (or a bit less) of weld 'n grind action before playtime begins! Yeah, there will still be a day or so of finishing bits body related but it's just gucci stuff really.
Let the games begin.
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Done.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010137_zps6c4504cd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010137_zps6c4504cd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010136_zps35c2f373.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010136_zps35c2f373.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010139_zpsa0452d8c.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010139_zpsa0452d8c.jpg.html)
Damn. That was full when I started!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010138_zps9ef15940.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010138_zps9ef15940.jpg.html)
Next job, deep cleanse of the workshop (as it's knee deep in grinding dust.) Boring.
Next interesting job - remove Mk1 dash and heater matrix, blower unit + steering column and graft Mk3 brake servo on to Mk1 pedal box (I think) and alter bulkhead. Then it's Mk3 matrix, blower and dashboard in.
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Great work again Ross! Cheers for the heads up on the mk1 linkage, I am guna take it out the mk3 for kim!
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awesome fabrication skills!
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Bet you're glad to see the end of the 'rustoration' part of the build! On to the interesting bits now!
Steve's (86C) method of servo-ing a Mk1/2 was to weld the appropriate section of Mk3 bulkhead in, dunno how often he's on here - but might be worth giving him a shout as he's done it several times.
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Andy - Ross has chopped that section out of a mk3 i've broken , although i can't imagine its going to be an easy job to get it into the mk1 as the angles and joins are all funny around the servo.
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Cheers boys! Yeah well pleased, had enough of it - time to modify!
Looking at it (and of course I can't see too much until I hoof the dash out) I think I'm going to try and alter the bulkhead as little as poss and graft the servo onto the mk1 pedal box - as it looks like the mk1 'box mounts differently. Until I can see more it's only a plan though.
Tom was really helpful in letting me lose with a grinder to the Mk3. If nothing else I've got a reliable pattern for exactly where the servo should fit to set the clutch pedal correctly. It might be a hybrid of mk1 & 3 bits.
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Right. Things to do before paint:
Fit mk3 dash + column
Shut mk3 brake servo in
fit seats, bars & runners
fit engine + ancillaries, cooling pack etc etc build exhaust manifold and downpipe.
Big strip down.
It's only fair to say at this point that i'm not doing anything no-one's done before. My friend 'oldskoolmat' (on here) did the whole mk3 dash into a Mk1 on his in his Mk1, and I liked the idea so i've copied him. Mat gave me a bit advice on what to shut to get it in too. Cheers Mat!
So first, take out Mk1 dash & column. Easy enough. Threw the mk3 dash in (+heater matrix & HIM) and cut it down a bit at the sides. Cut the original mounts off, shortened them and bonded them on so the original mk1 fixing holes could be used.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010145_zps37c5bc48.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010145_zps37c5bc48.jpg.html)
Ground off the reminance of the old lugs too for max clearance.
In out, in out, shake it all about. You know how it is - these things take time! Then as the mk3 dash is deeper I moved the original lower fixings down to meet it.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010152_zpsa3125dad.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010152_zpsa3125dad.jpg.html)
Once that was sorted, it was time to look at the columns side by side. Same length but different construction, so ground off a bracket on the mk3 item and fab'd a bracket out of 16swg to mount it to the original fixing but first, the diameters were different, so I tacked a bit of scrap into the old mount so I could use a hole saw to open it out.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010146_zps455d7d19.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010146_zps455d7d19.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010147_zps63a4da4b.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010147_zps63a4da4b.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010148_zps8079e78d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010148_zps8079e78d.jpg.html)
Then I moved it around and decided that 16swg was too thin, so I made one out of 3mm. This also got altered later on, when I found I couldn't get it behind the dash once it was in! Only needed 'reshaping' :-)
I set it all up, (checking the binnacle went in too) but found the wheel was too close to the dash. I was thinking - how do I know what the correct dimension is? ANSWER - the ignition cowling...which I dont seem to have! So i've left it for now. I've extended the column a bit (as it's telescopic) to get what I think is the right clearance. It feels right anyway. I don't think the original cowling will fit anyway as the position of the column is slightly different than standard.
MK1
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010140_zps2146cd94.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010140_zps2146cd94.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010142_zpsf00b2d83.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010142_zpsf00b2d83.jpg.html)
MK3
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010150_zpsa023eed8.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010150_zpsa023eed8.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010149_zpsae3e9807.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010149_zpsae3e9807.jpg.html)
Got the centre consul in too which is a bonus. That's what I wanted.
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And so onto the brake servo. This took a bit more thinking about. Again, it's been done before and the standard method seems to be to cut out the relevant parts of the mk3 bulkhead and shut them in, changing to a mk3 pedalbox too. This mounts differently to the mk1 item.
Frankly, it seems like a lot of work so I wanted to investigate methods without MORE cutting, welding & grinding. I reckon I've achieved it too.
Here's the difference between the mk1 & 3 sections in the bulkhead
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010125_zpsbad6a90d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010125_zpsbad6a90d.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010154_zpsf92bfe29.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010154_zpsf92bfe29.jpg.html)
I needed to get the servo as close to the OE bulkhead as possible, but if you do that the steering arm is directly above it hence the centre point of the brake master cylinder is lower on the mk1, as it doesn't have a servo (so nothing gets in the way.) So it had to be spaced out a little way to avoid that, but not too far that the end of the master cylinder (once bolted on) gets in the way of the dipstick tube and injector rail. I'm talking in general terms here. I don't actually know what the closest parts are but I will when I throw the engine in in a few weeks so it's best guess for now.
Luckily i've got friends with Polo's and a whole forum at my disposal! I called in to see Andy a few weeks ago and took a few photo's of his car as a matter of course so I've got a general feeling for the spacing and I called Saf who (as usual) was close to a mk3 Polo so I could get his advice from looking at one while on the phone too. I think what I've knocked up should be ok.
First of all, I cut down the original spacer so I could get as close to the rack as possible...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010155_zpsd25ca1b3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010155_zpsd25ca1b3.jpg.html)
Then I fab'd a bracket to go off the front of the spacer and bolt on using the original studs off the the mk1 pedal box which spaces it out and picks up on the mk3 servo...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010156_zps149b8bbb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010156_zps149b8bbb.jpg.html)
and offered it up after i'd cut a little of the inner arch lip away on the left hand side....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010153_zps7cdbeb17.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010153_zps7cdbeb17.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010157_zpse9401aa6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010157_zpse9401aa6.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010160_zps9e4726ce.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010160_zps9e4726ce.jpg.html)
It's looking good. It works out that it's spaced forward 38mm (1.5") off the bulkhead. It's only tacked for now. So i'll need to weld up the bracket and extend the clevis on the servo - easy. I wont be doing any of that until I know it all clears once the engine is in.
Here's the view under the wheelarch - you'll appreciate what I mean about the steering arm and how the spacing helps.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010159_zpsd6e32e94.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010159_zpsd6e32e94.jpg.html)
I'll put a gentle bend in the steering arm if needs be, but when I drop the car a prescribed amount i'll probably move the arms on the uprights down the same amount to compensate. Until I know exactly where the arm sits and arcs it's guesswork, so it'll remain in this state for a while now.
It's called development for a reason 8)
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This thread just got more awesome!!
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Looks good mate! Can always lower the steering arm/strut by 25mm and use a Mk1 golf insert ;)
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Seats & runners.
Think I'm going to fix the passenger seat in place as I've got fixed seats (none tilting for rear access.) The drivers side will be fixed height wise and the seat back angle too, but I'll put runners on it. In fact, I'm going to replicate the drivers side brackets & seat bars and put in a couple of spacers so if I decide to put runners in on the passenger side somewhere down the line, I can.
Seat runners. About £75 from demon tweeks and they are out of some 70's triumph. Rubbish. Standard seat fitting is a tad random so I'm ditching the lot. A colleague of mine (who has worked for a lot of marques) recommended that for one of the vehicles he developed they used BMW Mini seat runners as the mech is really nice and very adjustable and they are only an inch deep. That'll do. So I picked up a Mini seat for £15. Gotta love eBay ;D
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010161_zps82c132eb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010161_zps82c132eb.jpg.html)
Stripped them down to get to the real deal...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010162_zps8d29fc58.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010162_zps8d29fc58.jpg.html)
Nice.
Also picked up some lovely hight tensile (but weldable) lightweight round tube for my seat bars. This is actually crash bar material removed from car doors!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010164_zps807d4638.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010164_zps807d4638.jpg.html)
Drilled out some Ø20 bar to weld into the tube to fix my runners to..
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010163_zps4b7724f4.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010163_zps4b7724f4.jpg.html)
and then scribed and set up the tubes in the drill to take out to Ø20 so I could weld the bushes in. This is where I hit a problem. It may be high tensile & weldable, but it's extremely hard to drill! So hard, that after blunting a few (HSS) bits on the first hole (of 16!) I gave it up as a bad job. I'm going to get some box section instead - I can drill that. Yeah - I could weld some lugs on the side of the tube, but I want to put bosses through it. That's how I want it.
Anyway, seats. This is where I lucked in. A friend of mine used to work for Lotus. He was building a project and had some new Elise seats from the factory. Anyway, he moved projects and got some seats from other car within the group instead, so the Elise seats became 'spare' so he offered them to me at 'cost price'. Now, I'm not going to talk pound notes, but let's just say that it was the deal of a lifetime!! You can pick them up with a finger, they are very comfortable and look the 'nuts!
So I fab'd a front bracket to hold the front of the seat to the front of the runners, and then started the rear (making a good job of it) but I need some nice laser cut items to finish it, but I couldn't finish it until I knew the position, height & angle were right, so I put some gash brackets in to test.
As I'm waiting for my box section, I threw in a piece of wood around the right height and clamped it up! It took a bit of working out, not having any datums so a bit of guestimation was involved. I wasn't far out though - I never am 8)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010166_zpsad1969db.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010166_zpsad1969db.jpg.html)
Just needs dropping about an inch and it'll be perfect. Dad reckons so anyway...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010165_zps94fd95f7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010165_zps94fd95f7.jpg.html)
So I'll get my new material for my seat bars, fab those up and set them in next week, sit in it for a while, close my eyes grab the wheel and pretend it's finished, then copy the seat to runner brackets, strip the lot out and I'm done. Seats will go back in the loft for a while until rebuild time.
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This build is epic! Cant beleive ive never seen it before top work man :D
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Seats are epic!!!
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Hi guys,
I've done a bit more. Got my seat bars in, all good. First I removed the original seat retention mech off the crossmembers and cut down the captive runners on the inner sills & tranny tunnel to get my bars in then welded my patches of 16swg in to make a solid base to weld my bars to.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010170_zpsf4dc643f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010170_zpsf4dc643f.jpg.html)
Then lined it all up with lots of measurement and small tacks before cranking the MIG plant up to '5 mile island' and blowing it all in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010180_zps334e32f5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010180_zps334e32f5.jpg.html)
I admit, there was a deal of vacuuming before it looked like that!
Yeah, happy.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010171_zps5e0987b3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010171_zps5e0987b3.jpg.html)
Again, I need to do the nice laser cut brackets for the rear seat mount - i'll do that later.
Right. launch the mill in next for a look. Before that, need to look at how the oil cooler will fit. Needs a couple of ally brackets on the cooler and some steel 'L' brackets welding in - I can sort that easy enough.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010179_zps64806972.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010179_zps64806972.jpg.html)
Nothing like a prototype 8)
I removed the splash-guard from behind the grille to promote airflow to the oil cooler, and cut the two pressed rebates out too for the same reason
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010173_zpsc8bf14f5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010173_zpsc8bf14f5.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010176_zpsab86c2ed.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010176_zpsab86c2ed.jpg.html)
I've moved it back a few feet in the workshop now so I've got a bit of space to get the engine in and work around it. I've borrowed an engine crane off Adam, (G40 AD) and got horrendously lost and later found by Saf in order to pick it up. Cheers boys!
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Ah man, Docking- we've had a few parts from them, always makes me laugh...
NSFW: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=docking (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=docking)
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Remind me to buy MOCAL next time ;D
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following this with interest.
Regarding the two extra vent holes you cut, have you just removed the extra metal from the original holes to make them all look the same?
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Yeah, that's right. It's really to promote airflow across the face of the oil cooler (which will sit directly behind those holes) but the bumper sits in front of the whole lot, so cutting those holes is of minimal benefit. It all helps though.
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Hi guys, there's been a bit of progress. Lets start with mounting the oil cooler. Simple enough - you know where it was going to go as the last thing I did was cut out the holes. So I got on and knocked out some brackets + fitted the water rad too so I could look at space and leave space between the two for oil pipe clearance.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010001_zps6e0f2935.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010001_zps6e0f2935.jpg.html)
I'll buy a new stock rad once i've finished smashing things into it by mistake while on the build! Happy with the fit though.
Next, pull those out and put the mill in for a look-see. Cue Ad G40's crane, again!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20140315_0926052_zpsca7e23d0.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20140315_0926052_zpsca7e23d0.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20140315_1002041_zps4feb7db3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20140315_1002041_zps4feb7db3.jpg.html)
It's now people who've done this before realise exactly how much less space there is forward of the engine on a mk1!
I put a few other ancilaries on too, things that will need to be in to give me a true idea of space. Rad, oil cooler, ARB, alternator. Alternator needed a bit of modifying to get in - nothing too brutal, just taking an unused hole off the outer cast flange.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010011_zpsdaf9484a.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010011_zpsdaf9484a.jpg.html)
Now for the science bit, gang. So to put a G40 lump in a MK1, super or turbocharged, you have to make a section of the bonnet slam panel removable. Then after that you're playing 'hunt that space' for your oil cooler & intercooler, usually shutting panels or using bodykits to hide what's been done. And that works fine....but i'm not digging it.
I've drawn inspiration from BICKLE, Mk1 tuners of old from a couple of pictures I found online.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/09a617341a6fbe081fe2a033106b22c22d_large_zps7cee1f28.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/09a617341a6fbe081fe2a033106b22c22d_large_zps7cee1f28.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/535f4ebdeb7cea6682aa5f0ae9dac25f98_large_zps3592d03e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/535f4ebdeb7cea6682aa5f0ae9dac25f98_large_zps3592d03e.jpg.html)
....and I thought yeah - do fancy it (but with certain caveats!) I'll be using a K03, and my downpipe will be dropping under the engine in the same position VW intended. On with the build.
First, decide on the turbo's orientation and position.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010181_zps6067efd9.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010181_zps6067efd9.jpg.html)
BOOM! (Willing helpers are also useful for holding stuff. Mine helped but 'willing' is maybe over-egging it.)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010184_zps746e0bdd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010184_zps746e0bdd.jpg.html)
So starting with a mild steel tubular manifold a wing & a prayer, I cut the polo's old original exhaust system up and looked at how I could get from A to B. I'd been looking it at for a week and only saw problems. Hard lines. I was over complicating things. I was trying to get four individual headers into a 4-1 collector then going to turbo. This wasn't going to happen - it was all looking a bit grim. What I really needed to do was do the whole lot higher up (as the downpipe will run directly parallel underneath it) and get above the ARB. So after chatting to Andy about the whys & wherefore's of exhaust building (which I have a bit of experience in anyway...) and how the PY reacts to certain variations and realising that the ROTHE manifold isn't equal length and that works a beaut, I cracked on...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010013_zps62f46a4d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010013_zps62f46a4d.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010021_zps84a91eeb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010021_zps84a91eeb.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010022_zps8742e4fb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010022_zps8742e4fb.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010023_zps9145c59d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010023_zps9145c59d.jpg.html)
Just need to join the other headers into that now. Well, I say that but I'd be lying. The polo's original exhaust is 1.5" and I want the headers at 1.5" but the collector pipe (if you will) to be 1.75" so it meets up with the turbo at the right diameter. It'll all be mild steel, as the downpipe will be too. This is deliberate, not cost saving. Both the manifold and the downpipe will be long. Stainless moves about too much with extreme heat, mild is much more stable. I'll go stainless back from the downipipe. I'll also be bracing it to the engine mount to give the turbo support. This will be on slots though, so when it does move about the forces are not contained in the manifold itself - resulting in cracking.
So I'm due to see my exhaust guy on Friday. Again, lucky me - he builds the exhaust extensions for our cars so he's going to hook me up with the bits I need. Legend series. I'll build the manifold & downpipe from the tubes I get.
It can be easy to get angles wrong when building exhausts. Unless you have the whole car there (which is usually a sod to work around) then the best way to ensure you'll get what you want without horrible shuts everywhere to get the angles you want is to make a jig. So that's what I've done. You may laugh, but I can now get all the right parts and build it on the bench at home in the knowledge it'll go straight on.
She's a beaut!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010027_zpse92469c6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010027_zpse92469c6.jpg.html)
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Never knew this thread existed! :o
Can't believe how similar our projects are - my build thread can be found here:
http://z3.invisionfree.com/Mk1_Polo_Club/index.php?showtopic=1404 (http://z3.invisionfree.com/Mk1_Polo_Club/index.php?showtopic=1404)
Mine started off as a bit of fun but as the years have rolled by my end result has changed somewhat! :-\
Really hoping to do a lot more to mine this year seeing as the kids have put me back over the last few years. Then again......I remember saying the same thing 3 years ago! :D
Keep up the good work buddy!
Cheers,
Chris.
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Hi guys, time for an update. Progress is being made although the list of jobs before paint seems to get longer every time I look at something I need to do. Something always needs altering!
Anyway. Went to my tube guy and he hooked me up. If you're in the Manchester/Rochdale area I can thoroughly recommend him. Using my jig, a piece of chalk and 'rack oh't eye' he knocked up this beaut in 1.75" in 10 minute flat. First time fit. That's 30 years of experience for you.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20140404_130441_zps372b8558.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20140404_130441_zps372b8558.jpg.html)
http://www.tg-silencersrochdale.co.uk/
So I got back home and knocked up the manifold.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20140406_135207_zps19107a77.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20140406_135207_zps19107a77.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20140412_095339_zpsa0137cd7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20140412_095339_zpsa0137cd7.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010031_zps5a94b12b.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010031_zps5a94b12b.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010029_zpse558327d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010029_zpse558327d.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010028_zps065fd83b.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010028_zps065fd83b.jpg.html)
Permission to say 'BOOM!' ! Pleased with that. Just need to do the bracing off the engine mount. I've got the bracket made, I'll sort that in a bit once the downpipe is sorted.
I was a bit stuck for a while waiting for some bits, but I busied myself with putting central locking in the doors. Checking where my windows ran and having my servo's to hand I knocked up a link rod to the original and it works a beaut. Another job out the way. Simples.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010033_zps2492c796.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010033_zps2492c796.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010034_zps4069fe5b.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010034_zps4069fe5b.jpg.html)
Also broke out the airsaw and widened the fusebox aperture for the Mk3 rascal.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010032_zpse1341a4f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010032_zpse1341a4f.jpg.html)
Felt flush after payday so ordered my Intercooler. Now all this messing about is kinda key to this, as the idea was to fit this behind the (late) grille, so to keep it looking stock but having maximum flow across the intercooler - something that putting the turbo in in front of the block on a Mk1 compromises.
So here's the idea....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010035_zpse0e94469.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010035_zpse0e94469.jpg.html)
Theory is great. Practise often takes more achieving than first thought. This case is not the exception. When I measured the intercooler, I thought about the height and width but not the depth!! Schoolboy error. Life innit. Let the engineering commence!!
So I need to get it further back. What's stopping it? The bonnet catch & brace bar. Ok, not the end of the world just a bit of work. Basically I need to loose the O.E bonnet catch and re-locate them outboard - one each side. That way I can cut out the centre brace and move the 'cooler back about an inch. Looks like I'll need to move the oil cooler back too, no biggy (smalls) just some bracket alteration. I'll wind up running the 'cooler the other way up to miss the catches.
This spurred on a trip to the scrapper. I love a trip to the scrapper!
(unfortunately I just did a ctrl+v and lost sh1t-loads of what I'd written. f*cksake. Ok. Start over.)
Being as the downpipe is now in the way of where the O.E water line ran to the radiator I now need to re-route them too. You know what they say - Business in the front, par-tay round the back! With that in mind, turbo is frontal and waterpipes go behind, so I had a few bits to get. Here's what I got....
- Citroen Top Hose
- Peugeot Bottom hose
- Mid 90's Range Rover door gaiters
- Volvo 940 bonnet release mech's & pins (after a fight with a BMW 318 and deciding that corsa mech's looked alright but I'd rather be maimed than have Vauhall cast-off on the 'dub.)
£20. Boom-tang! Cool.
The hoses fitted better than expected. Bonus! Door gaiters will be needed for door speakers and locking solenoids. (I needed some 'early' ones, as most cars these days have big plugs on the end, not a traditional gaiter.
So the idea is to change the central bonnet catch for two outboard ones, and migrate the O.E release cable into it. It's going to work. The volve units are simple and not very deep either. The pins are adjustable so I'll weld some adjuster plates onto the bonnet, alter the slam panel & we're away! The pin centres will be where the blue cross shows.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010036_zps3625e9c3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010036_zps3625e9c3.jpg.html)
So I've got a list of jobs to do before paint. It looks like this...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010038_zps52917164.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010038_zps52917164.jpg.html)
Got any more suggestions? Well keep them to yourself. I've got enough to do ;)
Downpipe bits arrive next week, so more pipework fun can commence. Quality!
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Ehum!.... Cough* where getting it painted cough*!
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Work, hopefully. We've got 5 booths.....
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Work, hopefully. We've got 5 booths.....
Dayum! That must be huge!! Where do you work?
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Without naming names, I work for a specialist vehicle builder, one of the largest in the country.
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Yeah - been doing some work.....
First I had a look at where the bonnet meets the slam panel and where to put the catches. Once decided, I took the bonnet off, flipped it and shut some plates into it with M8 nuts tacked on the back.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010039_zpsca765890.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010039_zpsca765890.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010040_zpse74ede14.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010040_zpse74ede14.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010041_zps9c868ddd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010041_zps9c868ddd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010042_zpse6165e32.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010042_zpse6165e32.jpg.html)
Nice. Then using a bit of engineers blue, I bored some holes in the slam panel where the pins touched it. I had to cut down the latches and weld some new fixing nuts on the back, then flatten off the slam where the holes needed to be...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010043_zpsa0e6b2fc.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010043_zpsa0e6b2fc.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010045_zps50cd4108.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010045_zps50cd4108.jpg.html)
In fairness, there was fair amount of messing about involved but I've sorted it now, and it works a beaut. The spring loaded pins are quite long, so the catches need spacing down a bit - no problem. Shorten the pins too much and the springs will bottom out so it's a balancing act. Leaving the central pin in place, I shut the bonnet and measured at the edges, then with the central release removed checked I could achieve the same with the new side mounted pins.
Mish accomplished. I can link those up the the original release mech with a bit of bowden cable & sleeving. Easy.
All this enabled me to cut the central spar out (and the one on the right too) so I can get my intercooler back to sit behind the grill.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010056_zpsdb1f83a3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010056_zpsdb1f83a3.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010057_zps1fa70eaa.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010057_zps1fa70eaa.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010059_zpscdd296e4.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010059_zpscdd296e4.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010058_zpsae77da9f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010058_zpsae77da9f.jpg.html)
Cooling pack from the back.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010061_zps246671dd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010061_zps246671dd.jpg.html)
So I'm chuffed. Max exposure of the intercooled in a stealthy location 8) The intercooler bolting to the slam and to the panel below will give it the structure back that i've cut out - not that it needs it as the bonnet mounts are now at the side where the strength is.
Needs tidying next. Although it all fits now bit needs rounding off and neatening up.
Downpipe next now the bits are here and I've got a TIG set organised. Then engine back out and shut that Mk3 bulkhead part in!
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Looks great dude! Gotta sort that pesky pipework now lol :D
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Excellent work Ross!
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I'm enjoying the quality and attention to detail of this build, lots of effort going into doing the packaging well for the sake of 'doing it right'. Give me this over a slammed bike carb'd AFH'd smooth bay Mk1 any day.
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I'm enjoying the quality and attention to detail of this build, lots of effort going into doing the packaging well for the sake of 'doing it right'. Give me this over a slammed bike carb'd AFH'd smooth bay Mk1 any day.
^^^ couldn't have put it better!
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After skimming the update last night, going through it again today. Couldnt agree more with Andy, Ross theres some seriously awesome touches :) man. Exhaust looks stunning too, I'm excited to see the compressor - intercooler pipework now!
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I'm enjoying the quality and attention to detail of this build, lots of effort going into doing the packaging well for the sake of 'doing it right'. Give me this over a slammed bike carb'd AFH'd smooth bay Mk1 any day.
Shame he likes motorbikes really, otherwise he'd make the perfect husband.
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Thanks a lot guys, much appreciated. High praise from geezers who really know what they're doing - it doesn't get better than that.
We're function over form types of guys. Engineers! That said, hopefully I can get it to look nice too, but that's more subjective.
Going to do the boost pipework later Tom, I know it'll go in now, so I can do that once it's painted & being built for real. I'm still concerned about heat management, but I'm sure I can sort that side of things.
Pete - didn't know you cared :D Well, if you own a motorcycle you get pigeon-holed as being a biker. (Actually, if you own a Mini you get pigeon-holed as a mini boff too. I suppose it's the same for everything!!) I'm a car man, not a real biker. It gets me to work, I like riding it and getting through traffic + it's fun and insanely fast if you pin it but cars are my deal - and not just Minis! Small cars with decent power really.
Anyway I'm spoken for. :-*
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The thing is, I was going to build both my manifolds in mild steel; and the turbo manifold is. The problem is that to get out of the turbo & down quick enough so I don't hit the radiator, I need some tighter bends. Now as a rule of thumb, if you're mandrel bending tube you can do it to about 1.5 D - that is that the centreline of the bend is one and a half times larger than the diameter of the tube. This isn't tight enough for me. Luckily, I know of a place that presses bend half's which you weld together, at 1 D.
So I got tiggy with it.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20140516_1000061_zps137b9c9d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20140516_1000061_zps137b9c9d.jpg.html)
I also got a length of tube too, (and some stainless MIG wire) so I was all set to build the downpipe.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010066_zpse174cb35.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010066_zpse174cb35.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010072_zpsecc80db8.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010072_zpsecc80db8.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010071_zpsf9622a94.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010071_zpsf9622a94.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010070_zps63e20fbd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010070_zps63e20fbd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010073_zpsf225eea5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010073_zpsf225eea5.jpg.html)
Boom. The tricky bits were getting through the ARB with 2.5" pipe and setting up the height & angle going down the car for when I build the rest of the system later. Anyway long story short - I cracked it. It's pretty damn close to the sump but I figure there's a lot of air-flow down there so it'll be rate. After finishing it I realised I had used standard ARB mounts, not the ones which move it forward! D'OH! Hey - that only means more clearance. So I need to weld that up at some point but that's the easy bit. I'll put the lamda boss' in later too.
I took that off and looked it the brace for the turbo manifold to the engine mount and made up some bits....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010077_zps74eb431d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010077_zps74eb431d.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010078_zps60566346.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010078_zps60566346.jpg.html)
Then I had a brew and a think. I'm concerned about welding a bracket that close the the turbo flange, as all that heat will make it prone to cracking. It's probably the hottest part of the whole system! So I sacked it off. The other reason I'm concerned is heat transfer through the bracket & mount into the rubber bush. Could melt the whole lot. So if you look at the picture above, there's a cheeky gearbox casing hole next to one of the headers. I'm going to brace the manifold to that instead. I'll do the same with one lower down on the casing for the downpipe. Sorted.
That's it folks - engine back out! I stripped the 'bay and it came out this morning. Since then I've been tidying things up in there now all the expensive stuff is out of the way - it's looking good now.
In other news I also (barring a couple of stitches) finished the work on the bonnet by moving the secondary catch off to one side.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010079_zpsed7acde3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010079_zpsed7acde3.jpg.html)
It works a beaut ;D
Oh, just a few words on the cooling system. I had a couple of rad pipes made up to some templates I knocked up. The hoses are a bit pike-tech but in the face of paying mege-bucks for bespoke silicone ones, using part butchered OE Polo, Citroen & Peugeot pipes coupled with my steel pipes sorted the issue for about £7.50! It's not gucci but it'll work and thats the main thing. With the turbo off you can see it all a bit easier...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010075_zps771ec21b.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010075_zps771ec21b.jpg.html)
Tidy :)
The list of jobs before paint is getting smaller. Next biggy - Mk3 bulkhead & pedalbox into Mk1 shell.
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Ur manifold and the placement of the turbo worries me! I once had a leaking manifold and the gases escaping and hitting the thermostat housing, where enough to melt the plastic. I am really concerned that the heat from the turbo will melt something. Are u considering heat-wrapping the turbo housing and downpipe?
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Then I had a brew and a think. I'm concerned about welding a bracket that close the the turbo flange, as all that heat will make it prone to cracking. It's probably the hottest part of the whole system! So I sacked it off. The other reason I'm concerned is heat transfer through the bracket & mount into the rubber bush. Could melt the whole lot. So if you look at the picture above, there's a cheeky gearbox casing hole next to one of the headers. I'm going to brace the manifold to that instead. I'll do the same with one lower down on the casing for the downpipe. Sorted.
Could you brace off the cold side of the turbo onto the gearbox mount too?
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Looking awesome Ross it's gonna be really special the turbo installation,your wasted on CM
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Perhaps look at bolting a bracket to the turbine inlet studs ontop of the downpipe flange (and nuts).
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Hey Mat I've got love for your build too!
GR40 - Yeah it worries me a little too and rest assured, I'll be lagging the crap out of everything nearby! I've also got some thin 'stucko' aluminium material to make some heatshields with, which I'll hold into pipes with Terry clips. I'm going for this K03 blanket.....
http://shop.zedperformance.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=30
....which I thought was good for the price. It's hard work completely shielding these turbo's with the integral wastegate. I think it'll be ok. I'm under no illusions, heat management is going to be a battle.
Yeah - I'm a little unsure on the turbo mounting too. Manifold is 16swg pipe, so with the turbo inlet and the downpipe both being braced to the 'box casing I was hoping to get away without any more mounts? Not quite with you there Pete - can you explain your thinking a little more please? Cold side might be an option - need to look into it further. I can do that out of the car thankfully.
There's quite a bit of weight in the turbo, which I guess is what you're concerned about?
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Did you tig all off the exhaust?
I need a welder myself and have found a highly rated one (inverter type) it can mig and tig, only ever mig welded myself but by the looks of your work tig is the way to go. its £200 more than a decent mig welder so not sure which to go for
did you get much nicer welds with tig? reckon it would be beneficial to tig body work (non structural) over mig
also thought for when making brackets, it would be good to use stainless metal and tig custom parts opposed to mig
sorry, i know its not related to your build :S
any help/ advice would be much appreciate, is it worth the extra £200 for a tig welder?
Taylor
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Yo Taylor,
You know the deal - different tools for different jobs. Right from the outset though, don't forget that MIG uses CO2 or 'Argoshield' gas (an Argon mix) but TIG needs pure Argon. Gas (and bottle rental) is expensive unless you go for the throw away small ones.
Mild & Stainless use DC current, so you can use a set without HF (high frequency) for startup - in effect, 'scratch start'. Not brilliant/ideal, but it works. Aluminium uses AC, so to maintain the arc through the phase, you need a set with HF. These tend to be more expensive. If you get one, get one with HF.
Oh, and you need different tungsten's for steel & aluminium too. So TIG can be an expensive deal.
TIG is kind of like gas welding, but with an electrically generated flame. Back in the day before MIG, everything was gas welded together. Then MIG was invented. No-one gas welds cars up now. (Barr brazing for certain processes.) So for bodywork, stick with MIG generally.
Yeah it's cool for brackets & framework in fairness, but the other thing to factor in is that MIG is a hell of a lot easier than TIG. I'm not saying you wouldn't be able to pick it up, but it's a skill.
It's particularly useful in exhausts when welding in pressed bends, as you can tack things together and the tack is flexible so you can change angles. MIG tacks tend to be more brittle in my experience. I'll be MIG welding the rest of my exhaust, but inside the flanges will be TIG with the minimum of filler wire so it's nice & smooth. If you have nice clean edges which meet perfectly, you can use a TIG torch to fuse the metals together without filler wire - which is what I was doing.
That's a long answer isn't it? Stick with MIG unless you're going to do a lot, master a new skill and spend a wad on materials in the process!
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Ah thanks dude!! That was exactly what I was looking for :D appreciate the long answer :P
Been reading all day about them lol, there is no limit on what to buy, but I've found a really decent mig for £350 can weld really low amp for thin stuff and has a proper control panel, so just dial in wire size, metal thickness and sorts the rest out, makes my life easier as a novice
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Yes I did read into the gas for it and I'd only use the disposal ones for tig as I wouldn't be using it that much
Yeah that scratch start sounds like a pita!
Looks like mig it is :D
Thanks again buddy
Half my reply is on page 6 for some reason...
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This is a top read and the work is first class!
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Hey Mat I've got love for your build too!
GR40 - Yeah it worries me a little too and rest assured, I'll be lagging the crap out of everything nearby! I've also got some thin 'stucko' aluminium material to make some heatshields with, which I'll hold into pipes with Terry clips. I'm going for this K03 blanket.....
http://shop.zedperformance.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=30
....which I thought was good for the price. It's hard work completely shielding these turbo's with the integral wastegate. I think it'll be ok. I'm under no illusions, heat management is going to be a battle.
Yeah - I'm a little unsure on the turbo mounting too. Manifold is 16swg pipe, so with the turbo inlet and the downpipe both being braced to the 'box casing I was hoping to get away without any more mounts? Not quite with you there Pete - can you explain your thinking a little more please? Cold side might be an option - need to look into it further. I can do that out of the car thankfully.
There's quite a bit of weight in the turbo, which I guess is what you're concerned about?
Yup, I'll do a drawing if it's not clear after this, but the 3 studs coming from the turbine inlet housing point directly towards the gearbox (what your manifold collector bolts to). I would use these locations with a bracket back to the top of the gearbox. The gearbox/engine clearly moves as one on its mounts, so this relationship being fixed is sound. Heat transfer back through the mount and onto the gearbox casing could be avoided with insulation material/gasket.
I'd try to keep the bracket as short as possible, so you've got a bette chance of making it stiff enough so it doesn't move.
My concern with mounting on the cold side (compressor housing) is the fixings are very small (M5 on k03??) but you've got options, basically as below, but with your mounts back to the gearbox:
Hot side brace:
(http://www.autospecialists.co.uk/secure/images/products/2034.jpg)
Cold side brace:
(http://www.total-gtr.co.uk/upload/images/P5060664.jpg)
:)
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4-off M6 fixings on the K03 compressor housing holding it to the core, but also there's a decent sized boss with what might be M8 holes (I've never measured them!) which is what I wondered about using - depends on how the turbo's clocked I guess:
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx123/Logan797/326%20Turbo/IMG_20120325_231400.jpg)
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Hey sorry for the late reply - thanks boys. Sounds like you reckon i'll need another brace so I'll heed the warning and knock one up when I put the mill back in. I like the idea of bracing from the plate off the actuator to the cold side - nice one. Gives me the thermal break I was looking for.
So I've been bang into doing this work on the bulkhead. I couldnt get hold of 86C (Steve) who those in the know said I should talk to, so I batted on anyway. I had heard it was a bit of a task, and they weren't wrong. There was a bit if head scratching involved.
Anyway, the point came where I just has to get involved and lop sh1t away. I had the bulkhead part from Etches scrap car to hand + the servo & pedal box. The mount for the pedal box was upward of where the O.E bulkhead was, so the came out first. Then I consulted pictures I'd taken of the scrapper before I stripped it, and Andy's minter to understand where everything sat.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010084_zpsa10b650a.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010084_zpsa10b650a.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010086_zpsd4ae6c5e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010086_zpsd4ae6c5e.jpg.html)
So I tacked it up like that after a few hours of messing about and mounted the servo & pedal box for a look.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010089_zpsc62e770f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010089_zpsc62e770f.jpg.html)
Damn. Two problems, one obvious. So the 'box needed straightening up. The other, was that I'd been using where the servo sat relative to the steering rack as a datum. Wrong thing to do. Look at where the clutch cable lines up to the pedal - it's out by about 20mm. I should of used that as a datum.
Hey - that's why you tack things in and try it out! So I moved it across and levelled out the pedal box (checking the chassis was level first!) It looked right too - that's the main thing!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010096_zpsdd1334dc.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010096_zpsdd1334dc.jpg.html)
So I patched that in a bit then looked at making the new piece to mount the top of the pedal box to. I made a cardboard template then copied it onto metal. As one of the edges was contoured, I had to TIG a flange on all the way down. The other one I folded.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010097_zps34ac83cc.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010097_zps34ac83cc.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010098_zps7fdc6274.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010098_zps7fdc6274.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010114_zps4252a498.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010114_zps4252a498.jpg.html)
It fitted like a glove. And it should, as this is one area of the car which needs to be properly strong or I'll loose all that feel I'll get having gone to the effort of installing a direct-acting servo (as opposed to a remote one, which can feel 'woolly' in comparison.) Not only that, it would be dangerous.
After doing this and looking at it, it was easy to see there was more differnce in the two bulkheads than first thought. That's when I realised I'd need to use the original top section on the cut down Mk3 section to maintain the original bulkhead seal. It's lucky I didn't launch it - I thought I had for a while when I couldn't find it!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010116_zps1d7ed660.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010116_zps1d7ed660.jpg.html)
Then I prep'd the area for the pedal box cap to go...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010115_zpsbbed5522.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010115_zpsbbed5522.jpg.html)
I welded the whole lot up, (from both sides, for strength around the actual servo mount) before welding the box cap in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010118_zps1e7686f1.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010118_zps1e7686f1.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010119_zpsf92c4303.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010119_zpsf92c4303.jpg.html)
and so went from this......
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010080_zps5af9e63f.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010080_zps5af9e63f.jpg.html)
to this.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010123_zpsc61c2f03.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/P1010123_zpsc61c2f03.jpg.html)
It looks a bit rough, but it's not that bad really. It's all been ground back now (although I've not been over-zealous as I dont want to take any strength away) and it'll mostly be covered anyway. It looks good now and you wont see it when it's painted.
Bits & bats now boys & girls. A couple of weekends of those and it's ready. My painter is coming round this weekend so we can talk prep & finish. Exciting!
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Very exciting I'm sure dude! Fab work amazing again, really is a fiddly area with multiple joins etc. Looks plenty strong enough. Word to the wise, myself Taylor and more have had pedal box problems. Mine that's just been structurally strengthened and welded along the seams has cracked again using an afh clutch!
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That essential engineers tool-"the tent peg" ha ha.lookin good pal,who's painting it?
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Haha! you know it Matt. Johnnie Fringe I reckon..... He's coming round tomorrow for a look.
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Daaaaamn. Been a while eh gang? :P
Well, the lounge is looking great now, and the new central heating & radiators downstairs work a beaut! It's not done much for the polo though. You know how it is - sometimes life gets in the way.
Anyway, after a while of waiting for a slot you'll be pleased to know that the shell and parts are in for paint!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150131_103137_zpsc2622dd1.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150131_103137_zpsc2622dd1.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150131_105502_zps82432ff5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150131_105502_zps82432ff5.jpg.html)
Good times. Expected back in a few weeks. Meanwhile, back in the jungle (my massively untidy workshop) knowing the first bits to go back on are tank, pump & lines, looms & brake lines I thought I should dig out the Mk3 injection system lines and sort them out for the install....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010008_zps9dcbd8fd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010008_zps9dcbd8fd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010011_zpsa6e6af8a.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010011_zpsa6e6af8a.jpg.html)
they'd seen a lot of service and the whole lots needed a decent clean. So I took them to work and showed them to the parts washer. They came up a lot better. Took the bracket, and gave it some cup-brush action and it came up well so painted it.
Advice on here told me the 1.3 SPI pump was not the right one, and my second hand G40 one had the plastic end knocked off in the post. I had some repair parts made, but I was a bit sceptical. A pump in good health is key so I opted for a new one. It's a bit larger in diameter, so I altered the bracket to fit and made a new cradle for it out of some stainless tube. Coupled with some new clamps & a filter and a clean of the accumulator, I'm pleased with the result. Ready to go on when shelly gets back!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010015_zps603ee217.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010015_zps603ee217.jpg.html)
Faced with what to do next, some excess enthusiasm with the shell just being off for paint and an empty workshop, I thought I'd tackle the rear axle - not something I'd planned on doing until the other end of the build really - once it ran on axle stands.
The original Mk1 axle and a Mk3 GT axle resided in front of my house amongst some shrubbery. When I hauled-ass and got it into the workshop, it looked as you'd expect.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010016_zps7c893c31.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010016_zps7c893c31.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010018_zpse9c69eba.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010018_zpse9c69eba.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010017_zps6954d969.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010017_zps6954d969.jpg.html)
Again, after a brutal strip-down Mr. Knotted wire brush on grinder was applied to great affect.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150201_143952_zpsb25deb54.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150201_143952_zpsb25deb54.jpg.html)
Those of you with keen eyes will note that in the above photo I've got stub axles for the rear disc conversion. Bitchin' brakes were part of the initial design brief.
The finished spec will be thus: Mk3 Servo & Pedalbox, Ø22.2 Master cylinder, 256mm fronts with Vauxhall Calipers (with increased piston size over Golf GTi), Mk2 golf rear discs / Mk4 golf rear calipers, Wilwood bias valve, kunifer pipes, braided lines.
No dicking about. In fairness, it's only the same spec as a lot of other Polos - nothing new to see here. I was going to run a servo with a much higher assistance ratio, but was advised against it in the end. Knowing when to take advice is key. Should stop well with the above spec anyway!! I'll worry about pad/disc spec later. Rears are standard (obvious) but might go grooved on the front with an up-spec'd pad compound on the front. Nothing race orientated though - it's a road car.
Anyway, we've got some really good acid-etch primer at work so I gave the axle a coat of that then some good old Hammerite after that. That acid etch gets a real grip, so it should be good.
Took the calipers off the carriers and took some time to understand the difference in offsets and how it all pieced together with the mk2 items I bought what seems like an age ago, early in the build. Someone had been a bit over-zealous with the powdercoat, so I had to tip thinners down the slider sleeves and clean them out when the paint was soft, then set-to with the finger belt sander & file to make sure the anti-rattle shims & pads were a sound fit.
All good. It went together like this...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150206_165738_zpsf189ab21.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150206_165738_zpsf189ab21.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150206_155709_zps409d8b94.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150206_155709_zps409d8b94.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/20150206_155652_zpsb493d7c9.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/20150206_155652_zpsb493d7c9.jpg.html)
The bushes are in good nick no splits or perishing so I've left them alone. Yeah I could up-rate them, but road car. I can always do that later.
So now it's about the front. I'm reliably informed that Mk3 frontstruts are stronger than Mk1 items, so a pair of them are on the way for the same treatment as the rears. Got my calipers already.
With all this work on the axles going on, I put a call into one of our suppliers to hook me up with some suspension. He's going to get back to me with some options. It'll probably be fixed ride height & rate stuff, but quality gear. I await him coming back to me.
Apart from that & waiting for my front struts to arrive, I've been improving the Mini's cooling system! (but we'll stick to the Polo on here eh? :D)
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A long awaited update! Good un Ross,if you wanna get a mk1 gti rear anti roll bar I have templates to bracket it up? Means you'll have sand some of your fresh hammerite off but it makes a big difference! Uses all factory bits too
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Thanks Matt, much appreciated. Going to stick with standard GT axle for now, as I want to get a feel for how it handles relatively standard before making bigger alterations. With a track-spec car like yours, I can imagine why you much prefer it. Might come back to you on it later...
This is an update I've been wanting to write for ages. Yeah, the one about the refinish. I'll start by saying how awesome it looks and what a mint job's been done, and now back it up with text & pictures.
The brief was: Road car for mainly dry use. Not concourse. Straight & tidy, but lets not get carried away. It's going to some shows, but i'll be damned if i'm spending all day polishing & standing by it waiting for compliments. Exterior re-paint + all shuts. Not interior - carpets going back in, and it's going the same colour anyway - not arsed about the odd interior scratch. Paint the 'bay and tray. Doors, 'gate and bonnet, paint inside & out.
As a number of (sh1t) repairs had been carried out in the past, and there were different layers & shades of paint around the car when it went in, the only way to ensure quality adhesion of the new paint was to pull the whole exterior back to bare metal, and do the major filling from there...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07221_zpscpx5zqgj.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07221_zpscpx5zqgj.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07218_zpsfusoynvl.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07218_zpsfusoynvl.jpg.html)
Once filled, she got a coat of etch primer. Then, as the major filling was done but the whole thing needed profiling it got a coat of 'poly' which is basically a spray filler. A thin layer, but something to shape the car with. After blocking that down, a thin & sparse black 'guide coat' was added, to show any hollows. Under the bonnet, the joints of the new Mk3 bulkhead panels, and my stitch welding got treated too.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07225_zpsjcidkjzk.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07225_zpsjcidkjzk.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07224_zpsrfxn7a5e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07224_zpsrfxn7a5e.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07226_zpsyj9tb8rz.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07226_zpsyj9tb8rz.jpg.html)
Once the poly had been knocked back with the doors in place (to check all the lines) she got a coat of filler-primer (heavy primer) for the final profile. Once sorted, stonechip was applied across the front panel, down the sills & across the rear valance, the arches were sealed, and the bonnet shut painted.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07234_zps6kwc8o7y.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07234_zps6kwc8o7y.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07235_zpsk4tclfns.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07235_zpsk4tclfns.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07233_zpsueyrtxjq.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07233_zpsueyrtxjq.jpg.html)
Then, on Thursday afternoon just after 3pm after a white base coat, the Glasurit 'Lemon Yellow' solid colour was cracked out, and the magic happened.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07242_zpscuyxaigf.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07242_zpscuyxaigf.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07244_zpso5zuspdm.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07244_zpso5zuspdm.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07245_zpsmswowo9q.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07245_zpsmswowo9q.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07243_zps3t6r9srk.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07243_zps3t6r9srk.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07236_zps3o30agi4.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07236_zps3o30agi4.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07239_zpsoapmdkck.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07239_zpsoapmdkck.jpg.html)
I can assure you it was painted in one go with one batch of paint! With the doors of the booth open, natural light made a big difference to how the colour looks.
Big shout out to Russ, the perfectionist who did all the prep & paint. He's the man. He's set the benchmark high for the rest of the rebuild...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07240_zpsefyerapn.jpg)[/U RL]
So there we are sports fans. This week it's going into the underseal booth, then for cavity wax. Then I've lined up one of our trimmers to knock me up & install a new headlining. The one that was in it was cream coloured & rate manky. It served as a pattern. The new one will be black.
It's coming home next weekend if the weather is favorable.....
(http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07240_zpsefyerapn.jpg.html)
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Fresh paint - nice!
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That looks like a lot of care has gone into that paint and prep! Colour looks bob-on in the natural light.
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Looks awesome Ross!
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Spot on
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It's home, but before it came home it got the headlining I was on about.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07287_zpscyfqvuj5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07287_zpscyfqvuj5.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_5026_zpsnsvd9mza.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/IMG_5026_zpsnsvd9mza.jpg.html)
Top job. used 3mm foam backed material in the end. Swapped the sun visors round so now they are black in the 'up' position. They are cream when they are down. I could of re-covered them but I'm not going nuts. It fine. It's better than fine, it's mint.
Got it home (minus panels which are stashed at work for now) but again, before getting it on the trailer I went a bit nuts with the waxoyl.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07281_zpsifi1kteo.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07281_zpsifi1kteo.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07288_zpsa6porxys.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07288_zpsa6porxys.jpg.html)
I wanted to get it on the underseal ramp, but the bogey was too narrow, so I brushed it on once it was home. (In retrospect, I should of 'found a way' and sprayed it, but hey - you live & learn. It's done now.
heat it up.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010033_zps3bcwuvhb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010033_zps3bcwuvhb.jpg.html)
and brush on.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010030_zpsst5jz2lj.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010030_zpsst5jz2lj.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010029_zpsxdwpur8c.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010029_zpsxdwpur8c.jpg.html)
Then I bunged it back on axle stands and did the first 6" underneath. It's already got a coating in decent nick, so I didnt need to go mad. That, and it's MINGING gear. Horrible. Glad that's over, although working underneath still seems to cover me in the stuff.
Anyway, what with the etch prime, terroson rubberising spray, waxoyl & underseal - it should'nt rust in the near.....
'bay looks good dunnit...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07286_zps407h2vci.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07286_zps407h2vci.jpg.html)
Time to put some stuff back!!! So I started with Mk2f (3) loom and looking at the fuel lines.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010034_zpsjyub6beb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010034_zpsjyub6beb.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010035_zpswiajwi8z.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010035_zpswiajwi8z.jpg.html)
Then released I need to do a little 'rough' painting inside before tying the loom down, so I concentrated on the fuel system. Reckon I've got the positioning pretty much sussed. Confident in where the accumulator & pump go, I put in some riv-nuts and hung it without the bobbins. It's looking good.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010037_zpslkwedaef.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010037_zpslkwedaef.jpg.html)
I've ordered the bobbins, but the lines look too long on the Mk1 - not sure yet. Also, there's 3 lines. I think the randomer is for the charcoal cannister so I'll ditch that. Should get some time BH monday so have a tinker next - looking forward to it!
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Let me start of by saying that a Mk3 tank is not a direct fit into a Mk1. Mine isnt anyway. Could be a copy tank with slightly different dimensions though. Either way, it was close, but no cigar. Interfered with the hard brakeline mount on the LH side. I could of got creative with my grinder, but now paint's been laid I'm doing as little as possible on that front. I didnt take any pictures - wasn't in the mood.
I'm going to buy a Mk1 tank & punch the bottom out. It means I can bang the whole Mk1 handbrake assy back on too (apart from constructing some bits for the the golf GTi rears) so that should be less of a pain in the 'arris. I've got a decent Mk3 tank for sale now, so that'll go towards it. I got on with putting in the rubber bobbins and hanging the pump assy. All good.
Undeterred with the tank (and after another brew) I sifted through some parts I got down from the loft. I fitted the HIM module and pulled all the looms out and began to work through where they all went. The other weekend, I picked up a GT damped steering rack and during the week I gave that a clean in the parts washer at work and fitted that too. With a few parts in place, and with pictures of all the cars I've pillaged parts off, and Andy's minter I was able to piece it all together.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010174_zps9ysyusrq.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010174_zps9ysyusrq.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010177_zpsvvpbqtht.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010177_zpsvvpbqtht.jpg.html)
The eagle eyed of you will see i've done a little internal painting too - nothing to write home about, just getting things looking right.
My air inlet is where normally the large grommet goes for the lighting loom. I'm using the Mk1 header tank so I plonked that on and bored a new hole for it underneath. It was a smaller hole (as space permitted) so I swapped the grommet out for a smaller one. Also, the main engine loom hole in the bulkhead (central) was much smaller on the original, so I bored that out. Then I fitted up all the looms and worked out where things went.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010176_zpswlappgam.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010176_zpswlappgam.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010181_zpsj9wa9rix.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010181_zpsj9wa9rix.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010180_zpstvj6vbgz.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010180_zpstvj6vbgz.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010178_zpskmzixof1.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010178_zpskmzixof1.jpg.html)
So without going into minute detail, I fitted a lot of parts today to look at a lot of stuff. Not all of what's fitted now will stay. There's loads on the go, and it's exciting! Jess is away next weekend, so I've got a whole host of things listed to do. In honesty, it wont look a lot different at the end of next weekend, but a lot more will be fixed in place...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150406_185537_zpsylv2q7lb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150406_185537_zpsylv2q7lb.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
In case it helps - Automec do kunifer pipe kits for the Polos which are reasonably priced. I've only go a cheap (i.e. crap) flaring tool, so buying some ready-crimped stuff was a life saver.
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My working week is normally Monday-Thursday, but it's rare I get a Friday off these days. However; come last Thursday afternoon the job list for the week was looking achievable by Thursday night, so I did a little graft & stayed a little late in the knowledge that Jess was away this weekend visiting friends abroad, and I had a lots of jobs to do on the Polo and the chance to bang in a couple of decent shifts.
Looking at the pictures I posted last, I knew that the jobs I had to do wouldn't make it look much further on, but in real terms it's all valuable work done.
I started with the ECU. Roughtly in place, I needed to fix it down properly and work out where the two relays were going to sit too. I Ummm'd & Ahh'd about riviting it straight down to the bulkhead/making a new bracket/altering the O.E bracket. It needs to be off the floor, as techinically it's a gutter. I butchered the O.E bracket, making new mounts, cutting off the old ones and relocating the bracket for the relays. Seeing I had some other relays to mount, I copied the profile a couple of times on to steel, should I need it later.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010183_zpsib6rgfgu.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010183_zpsib6rgfgu.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010185_zpsnjme96jy.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010185_zpsnjme96jy.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010188_zpsnuclfxqt.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010188_zpsnuclfxqt.jpg.html)
So I'm happy with that. Looks neat and the angle I've set the ECU at keeps the loom out the way of the air inlet through the bulkhead. I also took some time to tidy up the looms and tie them up out of the way, across the bulkhead.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010187_zpsegnqwojq.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010187_zpsegnqwojq.jpg.html)
I carried on the tidying theme inside. I used a clip and a few tie wraps to hold things up inside. The thing is, there's about £200% more loom than in the Mk1, and all the tie points & clips are different to the Mk3. I'm not about to drill it to the point of being a colinder either, so tie wraps are fine - used properly and what they were designed for.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010189_zpsqc8bgg8t.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010189_zpsqc8bgg8t.jpg.html)
The G40 engine loom I bought (the VERY first part I bought, which Mat (OldskoolMat) hooked me up with,) was marked up which helps, but three years later (and being written on parcel tape with dry wipe marker) a lot had rubbed off or become unreadable. No matter, got the Haynes out and marked it back up. all good.
Then I tackled mating the Mk3 loom to Mk1 just behind the heelboard. I had already belled out the Mk1 loom earlier in the build, so I knew what wires were what. Haynes told me the rest.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010190_zps3bhfrixr.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010190_zps3bhfrixr.jpg.html)
There are a couple of anomalies when doing this.
- I am using the wash tank & setup from the Mk3, so I took the tank out of the rear and it's replaced by a washer fluid pipe coming from the front, so there's a redundant 12v supply in the mk1 loom.
- On the Mk1, the numberplate lamp backed off the sidelight supply - on the mk3 it's seperate, so I left the Mk1 one in and there's a redundant 12v supply fromt the Mk3 loom going backwards.
- Heated screen wire is black on the Mk3 and white on the Mk1 -just joined them.
- Wiper motor feed colours also differed.
In fairness, it was quite straight forward. I joined it all up (soldered with heat shrink) and I was left with the two heavy wires for the fuel pump and the washer fluid pipe. BOOM!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010192_zpsvfvioli8.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010192_zpsvfvioli8.jpg.html)
It's all tidied up and pinned back now. As all that was in, I did a bit of fun stuff, cleaned up & put the rear clusters back in. Also put the vents back in the rear pillar while I was around that end of the car.
I drilled the hole in the boot floor for the fuel pump wires and (knowing that a healthy voltage is required to the pump for best performance) soldered the terminals on and fitted all that up with the rubber caps.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010194_zpszrt9vnsb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010194_zpszrt9vnsb.jpg.html)
As I was on the fuel system, I stripped out the third line (for the charcoal can) and scrapped it, then clipped up the lines under the car and into the 'bay. Nice!
Some of the plastic parts knocking on for 35 years old are a bit brittle, so the rear parcel shelf supports needed some reinforcement with the thin plastic before putting them back in. You know the dance kid, cut some placky - bond er'up. Sorted.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010186_zpsmivyd106.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010186_zpsmivyd106.jpg.html)
Back on the front end, I fitted up the Mk3 4 litre wash tank, connected the rearward pipe and cleaned & fitted the front lights - mainly so I could get the lighting loom in the right place. I also cut the indicator wires off at the fitting and soldered on some male Lucar's to match the indicator units in the bumper.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010195_zpsjdlmgzx4.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010195_zpsjdlmgzx4.jpg.html)
Before I can put the dashboard in, everything behind it needs to be figured out and in place. We all know what an arse it is working with the dash in when you've got a problem. There's a few bits to this, and I'm not quite there with it yet. I need some more parts too. I know what they are now though as I made a list. I'll get on the drum n' bass with ordering those next week.
Brake piping is coming soon, and to do that I need the master cylinder in place to make the pipes. Obviously for that, you need the servo in place, so pedal box has to go in. It also has to go in before the dash. So I bolted it all up. I got a Mk3 throttle pedal the other week too, which aided proceedings.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010196_zps9scmkri6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010196_zps9scmkri6.jpg.html)
It's looking good. I gave the servo a quick blast of matt black too while I was at it.
I want to be 100% sure of the proximity of the throttle pedal the the brake pedal, and I think I need a new cable - the one I've got is a bit shagged really. I'll take a look at a Mk3 before doing that and putting in any holes I later regret.
Anyway, I batted on with hooking up all the heater controls and getting that working nicely from a combination of two sets of components I've gathered along the way. I gave a bit of thought to the gauges I'll be putting in the stereo aperture and the feeds I'll need for that, so I backed off an illumination feed and an ignition live for the AFR. The AFR is the only one which will need a feed. Boost gauge will be manual (standard really) but so will the oil pressure gauge. I prefer a nice analogue pressure gauge.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010193_zpsuoedtm00.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010193_zpsuoedtm00.jpg.html)
As it's having central locking, and I've got the whole thing in bits I though I'd go the whole hog with an alarm so I've got that to wire in now. It doesn't seem too complicated. More complex is having it installed but overriding it for the time being so I can get the car working without the added complication of mastering the alarm!! But I can do that. Should be fine.
I'm also thinking about the stereo (not 100% sure where it's going yet - top of the centre consul is looking favourite at present.) I cut off all the gash stereo wiring from the past and got back to basics with an ignition live, perm live, illumination & ground. I'm starting again. I'll run all those wires too before I put the carpet down. The speaker wires are going into the doors through the same gaiters which I'm putting the services for the locking solenoids. You may remember me working out the metalwork side of things earlier in the build.
Lastly for this update, thinking more about the gauges and there position, I wanted to do something a little nicer than putting them into a flat plate in the stereo aperture, so I've designed up a faceplate. The idea being for the gauges to face me a bit more.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/mk3%20dash%20cluster_zpssd0wflem.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/mk3%20dash%20cluster_zpssd0wflem.jpg.html)
I'll extend the depth of it, have that CNC cut out of a block of MDF, then make a GRP mould and take a print. I've got a strategy for holding it in place sorted out, but we'll go into that once I'm got a bit further on with the component.
So a load of work done, not a great deal to show for it but technically moving me a lot further on. Doubt I'll get a block of time like that again for a while.
Still, housework has to be done. Sometimes even THAT can work to your advantage.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010001_zpsvbw86xxt.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/mk3%20bulkhead/build%20up/P1010001_zpsvbw86xxt.jpg.html)
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Quality as usual mate 8)
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Got some more wires to put in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010002_zps0dilzlpf.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010002_zps0dilzlpf.jpg.html)
not sure whether i'm running an amp or not (it's definitely having a decent stereo) but I'm running the wires anyway. Now's the time. Don't have to use them.
As with any good stereo wiring - voltage down one side (LH, as with the rest of the loom) and sound down the other side to avoid any interference - RCA cable + rear speaker wires.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010019_zps45hxjlqg.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010019_zps45hxjlqg.jpg.html)
Put my door gaiters in and ran the locking solenoid wires and speaker cables for later.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsf95xowvo.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsf95xowvo.jpg.html)
I got in early and bought a few parts off Robin. Was good to see his car, talk through some stuff and generally get some more views about what I'm doing from someone who's played about with G's for years. I needed a decent throttle cable and got it, so I fitted that. On the Mk3, it goes forward at an angle. I didn't realise that or make an angled base for it. Never mind. It'll work striaght up too. Although, it seems the inner arch detail is a bit different form Mk1 to Mk3, and would restrict throttle travel. I did a bit of educated guess work + a quick mock-up and altered the cable to suit.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsvh49ryey.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsvh49ryey.jpg.html)
as you can see, I've knocked a bit out of the solid length to account for the difference in the floor. I didn't get it right the first time. Made a schoolboy error; once i'd piled it with weld I though I'd best quench it for the heat transfer kills the rubber on the end. By the time I got to the bucket it had dropped off!
Luckily, I had an old second cable. This time, I filed off the yellow passivate finish (to give me a better weld) joined it further up (to minimise heat transfer - although not a lot) and got a quench milk bottle ready!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010017_zps9hngbi2o.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010017_zps9hngbi2o.jpg.html)
nice.
It was fine after that. Sorted. Gives me a good travel.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010021_zps6hqpaau7.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010021_zps6hqpaau7.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010022_zpsbpriaapw.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010022_zpsbpriaapw.jpg.html)
Happy with that. Like a dick, for some unknown reason I plated up the throttle cable hole. It's coming back out this week when I borrow a Ø45mm hole saw from work. not sure what I was thinking there. Probably that the speedo cable hole was for the throttle. That's the problem with not having a Mk3 datum on the drive to work from! Well, it's easier to take stuff out than to put back in eh.
Fuel tank. I've looked at another mk1 and a mk3. I'm cutting the mk3 tank down. (As I cant get hold of a mk1 tank.) There was a bit of old fuel in the mk3 tank which I couldnt get out, so I pulled the lift pump out and very gingerly cut a 2" hole at the lowest point of the tank (which i'm cutting off.)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010024_zpsds1hpcac.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010024_zpsds1hpcac.jpg.html)
not fun, but I took it real easy & took my time. That, and old fuel is a lot less potent. Then, I needed a way to dry the tank out before I cut it about.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010025_zpsthont729.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010025_zpsthont729.jpg.html)
So I cracked out the old PC fan & 12 volt! I'll leave that for a few days now all the old fuel has gone and I'm just getting rid of vapours. Be rate. There's a fiant blue line roughly where i'll shut the tank. It's all to do with the Mk1 handbrake mech I'm retaining. I reckon it's knocking 25% volume out of the tank. I'm not really bothered. It's not a GT car.
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Well gang, throttle cable is in now -all good.
Some goodies arrived in time for the weekend....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010007_zpsrmmbky7i.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010007_zpsrmmbky7i.jpg.html)
Before that though, I'd been dicking about with the fuel tank. You'll be pleased to hear I'm still alive. (Well, most of you will be anyway.) I cut out what I thought I needed to and shoved it back in for a squiz.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010004_zpst33pbjec.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010004_zpst33pbjec.jpg.html)
The plan was to just cut the bottom section away, leaving the tank as big as possible above.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010005_zpsh5y66bcd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010005_zpsh5y66bcd.jpg.html)
No dice. The Mk1 handbrake mech is lower than the mid-point of the tank, so I ended lopping off a good 25% - as a real Mk1 tank would be.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010008_zpscfktmipy.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010008_zpscfktmipy.jpg.html)
**LIBRARY SHOT OF Mk2f LIFT PUMP IN Mk2f TANK!!**
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010009_zpsslbox5mc.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010009_zpsslbox5mc.jpg.html)
So I cut a wooden blank of the aperture, then chamfered the edges. I'll cut a zintec steel blank a bit larger, screw it centrally to the blank and hammer-form it round, to make an endcap. I could just cut a flat 'size' blank and weld it in, but you'll get more weld slag on the inside of a fillet weld than a butt weld, so it's a better option. I'll form the endcap and TIG the whole thing in. The old tank also had some front take offs (I imagine for earlier carb'd variants.) I've cut them out too while I was about it.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010015_zpsqdfkzgxz.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010015_zpsqdfkzgxz.jpg.html)
So if you want a Mk1 tank - I'M YOUR BOY! 8) ;D
I've been doing a lot of research & debating about brake piping lately. People seem to do it differently (but get the same results.) I talked to a couple of G40 guru's, VW specialists, looked at a couple of cars, consulted pictures and talked to our Type Approval consultant at work too. The long & short of it is, the 22.2mm master cylinder gives 4 equal outputs of pressure. So blocking one outlet off means I can use the front two ports for the front cal's and one rear output to go backward into a bias valve, split with a tee afterwards. Sound.
So armed with a roll of Kunifer, Dad's AWESOME brake flaring tool,
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010010_zpsphkavyqq.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010010_zpsphkavyqq.jpg.html)
and a bender, (easy now boys)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010011_zpsrqfcvlwx.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010011_zpsrqfcvlwx.jpg.html)
I cracked on. And before you say it - yeah, I know you're meant to bend after the fitting, but there wasn't enough pressure to damage the thread, and it gave me a tighter radius. Get involved.
I didn't want it looking shit, so I took my time. Thought about it. Got the brews in, then smashed it out.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010014_zpsvoavbkoi.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010014_zpsvoavbkoi.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010013_zps5cpj7zds.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010013_zps5cpj7zds.jpg.html)
It's not perfect, but neither am I. It's as close as I'm realistically going to get. There's more to do though. It's all got to come off yet to put the fittings on the other end. Cue another load of research. Long story short? To use the larger Vauxhall calipers with Mk2 GTi discs, you need Lupo front brake lines, as they have banjo fittings into the cal's, unlike the VW 256 offerings. So it's Lupo fronts & std G40 rear braided lines next. Once I get those, I'm cookin'. I can clip them all in to place, done. I'm going to mount the bias valve underneath the car (next to the cut-down tank) and make a splash guard. It's gonna be sweet.
I needed to do the same de-scale op on the front suspension components as I did on the rear axle, so I got busy with the cup-brush in the Manchester sunshiiiiiiine.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010016_zpsdmy2kjvp.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010016_zpsdmy2kjvp.jpg.html)
Got a birra paintin' to do, shag.
My contact has come through on the suspension front, so I'll be ordering that this week. Tidy. Finish the brake pipework, sort the tank, fit it, and then once the suspension arrives I can think about bolting the rear axle up. Let's not get ahead of ourselves though - birra work before that day comes.
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A wish to look inside a mk2f fuel tank has finally come true. Thanks for that.
Work is looking top as usual.
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Painted.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsnkfkop71.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsnkfkop71.jpg.html)
Birra etch primer and some hammerite. STANDARD.
Done the tank too - guess how it fits.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010024_zpsjzv11ran.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010024_zpsjzv11ran.jpg.html)
In fairness, it was a bit of a tw@. I went to work, knocked up the endcap and brought the tank in so I could fit it up. At the start of welding it, I knew it wasn't going to be the seamless job I'd hoped of. For starters, it needed shortening by 3mm. So I ended up just getting in there and lopping 3mm out, rather than cutting the pattern back and reforming the edge. I seam welded it inside to make sure it was tight. It went in after that, but I knew the weld wasn't as good as I wanted it to be. I considered leaving any testing, but after that I knew it had to happen. So I filled it with water.
It was like a colinder.
Ok, maybe not THAT bad, 4 or 5 leaks. I started by emptying the tank each time & applying a weld where needed. By the end, I was tipping a bit out and going back into the 'shop and banging it it where-ever it was coming out!!
I essence, I got it water tight. But fuel is lighter than air. So I dried it out (with my computer fan over a couple of days) then hit it with £2.10 of ESSO's finest. Yeah, you probably need a full tank to replicate the exact pressure on the joints it'll see in service, but three things -
1) That's 40 odd quid
2) I'd got to dry it all out again and risk hitting it with a MIG plant.
3) BE RATE.
It was sound. WINNER. So I etch primed it and hit it with the same TERROSON (Merc approved) product I used on the rest of the car. Knocking 20mm out of the filler neck made it fill-able too...
WAS
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010003_zpsamjp3026.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010003_zpsamjp3026.jpg.html)
IS
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010022_zpsbrp5xemb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010022_zpsbrp5xemb.jpg.html)
So that's done. Yeah, I've fitted the WILWOOD bias too. It's not a rally car, and one day I might want to throw rear seats in it, so I mounted it underneath. I'll put a splash guard on that and cover the thread in grease.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010030_zps5edwxeis.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010030_zps5edwxeis.jpg.html)
I just need a little bit more kunifer to finish it off. Easy.
HEL brakelines arrived. In answer to the question on the forum (which no-one answered..... - there are a few from me..) For Vaux front cal's and disc rears (using std hard-lines from the cal to the fixed point on the axle) then you need Lupo 1.4 Sport fronts (with the banjo for the vaux cal's) and std G40 rears. Boom.
I took the opportunity while the brake flaring tool was out to finish the fronts and make up the rears on axle. The M12x1.0 fittings were not quite long enough to bottom out in the cal's, so I put a cheeky little chamfer in there to get what I needed. All good.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsujlod8zd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsujlod8zd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150516_080843_resized_zpsjjji2pne.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150516_080843_resized_zpsjjji2pne.jpg.html)
It's ready to go on BABY. Doing that on your own is a bit of a hassle, but I sorted it. In an ideal world, my suspension has arrived and it's fully built up, but that's not where we are. I should be able to fit the rears with the axle on (pretty sure I remember doing so on my Mk3 GT back in the day) so i'll tackle that once it arrives. It's en-route from Germany now.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150516_145918_resized_zpsq8hgkrh9.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150516_145918_resized_zpsq8hgkrh9.jpg.html)
I've got a scheme worked out for the rear handbrake cables using the Mk4 golf items. It's gonna be sweet and simple. I'll just get CABLE-TEC to joint them once I've sorted the length out. All in good time.
I've got all my parted ready for the front apart from the shocks & springs! So it's all ready to go once they arrive and it'll be showing 4 hubs. NICE.
I've done a lot of work on the front suspension apart from painting the hubs too. Ages ago, I bought an old Stage 2 PPP subby from AD G40 which was a bit battle-scarred from lows but easily serviceable. While mooching about with the fuel tank, I plated up one of the bars where it had a long standing argument with speedbumps.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010019_zpsvzknwpsr.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010019_zpsvzknwpsr.jpg.html)
And painted that, in the way by which you all know.
I looked at my original bottom arms and after thinking about changing one, was advised to change both. It was a good call. Before fitting, I took the brand new arms and chopped out the inner bushes and replaced them with powerflex items. I want the track to remain the same, but again - it's not a track car predominantly so those bushes are fine. I'm not forking out over the odds for sphericals - I doubt I'd notice the difference. The outers (ARB) I've kept O.E rubber on purpose for some compliance. So I mounted up the ARB (with the PPP blocks) and the subframe + the TCA's. Then fitted the HEL lines, as described earlier. Finished the brakelines underneath and refitted then all under the bonnet, then put the steering arms back on. It's looking good 8)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010027_zpszw3wmqoa.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010027_zpszw3wmqoa.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010028_zpsejafjnmf.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010028_zpsejafjnmf.jpg.html)
The workshop needed a tidy - it was looking like a right 'hole. Then something popped out to say hello.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010032_zps9id4c9wl.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010032_zps9id4c9wl.jpg.html)
That's right ladies & gents, the naughty '40 lump :D
So I dusted her down and made a list, then got some parts out of the loft. Like all 'core G40 owners, I bought another ATV along the way, and legend has it that it's 20k down on the on trial-fitted at present (that, and the other other has what appears to be a sound thrust-release bearing!!) so I'm swapping out before even trying it. Good to have a spare though. Also got my Kevlar wear plate to put in there too. Seems to be a LUK item.
So I'm waiting for Billies and for some engine rebuild bits (flywheel bolts) before I go any further. I need to find (and borrow!) a local engine crane too. Not looking long before I drop the mill back in! Few engine build bits to do before then. Nothing major.
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Quality mate, proper stuff!
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proper job!
one thing tho - i always thought it was sensible for a flexi to go into the calipers... golfs have 6 flexi lines for this.
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Cheers boys ;D
Yeah, in hindsight I might of got some custom flexi lines made for the rears to go from the body hangers straight to caliper but it's the old thing - they cost more if they're bespoke. The std length Mk2f flexi's will be fine once full droop is controlled by the shocks being on and the hard lines only took me time to make.
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Bit late I guess but I used Mk4 golf rear pipes as they go from Flexi-copper. I cut down the copper and just flared it where it needed to meet the bracket on the beam.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/max_crox/Polo%20Coupe/DSC00346.jpg)
Cheap from ECP too.
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Got an update for ya..... this one's relatively big! I'll concentrate on the stuff which stands out, as opposed to standard rebuilt stuff you'll see on every car, or it could get samey.
So I've put the engine in. All good.
But before that, got my fuel hoses sorted in the 'bay.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010031_zpsuofubu96.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010031_zpsuofubu96.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010033_zpsxipykmkh.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010033_zpsxipykmkh.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010034_zpskhxww8r3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010034_zpskhxww8r3.jpg.html)
Yeah man!
Alternator was a bit tight though. If you remember, earlier in the build I found it was tight and cut a chuck off the mounting flange. Anyway, it needed a bespoke adjuster.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010037_zps1fekpgmd.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010037_zps1fekpgmd.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010036_zpsz365frll.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010036_zpsz365frll.jpg.html)
Gave it a lick o'paint and put it on for real.
Billies arrived. Tidy. Managed to launch the top mounts by mistake - arse. First, I checked out a colleagues Mk2 so I refreshed my mind exactly what I was looking for.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150530_103643_resized_zpsppkvf91q.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150530_103643_resized_zpsppkvf91q.jpg.html)
that's the rascal...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150530_102242_resized_zpsu3q9qadf.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150530_102242_resized_zpsu3q9qadf.jpg.html)
Then I got some off a Nissan Micra that looked around the same. The mounts under the turret are from the original car, ain't nothin' changed.,
So I got my rear shocks & springs on, and it's all looking tight 8)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010038_zpspds9879z.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010038_zpspds9879z.jpg.html)
**(i'm picking this update up where I started writing it a while ago, so sorry if it sounds a little dis-jointed.)**
What else?
Finished all the brake piping out of the bias valve. The fittings out of wilwood stuff are a real pain. Really odd American sizes. I thought i'd got away with it by drilling out some fittings but they were taper threads. Schoolboy error. I had to bite the bullet and buy some expensive (relatively) adaptors to get me out of trouble. This meant ditching an olive on the end of a pipe and re-doing it shorter to account for the adaptor. The engine was in by now and getting the pipe back off was going to be a tw@ so I did it in situ....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150613_124835_resized_zpsp8ypqvkc.jpg)[/URL
technical bodge. Well, less than a bodge & more of a get-out. With the piping all done, it's a case of getting the front legs on, finishing the pipe work on the front and attemping to bleed the system, but before that a whole chain of things had to happen...
To put the front legs on I needed to put the driveshafts on. To put the driveshafts on I need to put the sump on properly. To put the sump on properly I need to weld in the turbo oil return. To weld on the turbo oil return I need to decide on pipework routing. And to do that ladies & gents, I needed to dress the 'bay and get my head back in to where things were going. See what I mean?!
To cut a long & drawn out story to a sensible length, my oil return went in the same place as everyone else puts theirs. I just wanted to be sure I couldn't route it anywhere better first. As there's no real pressure on the return line, I didn't go all dash-fitting on 'cho ass. I kept it real with a piece of pipe! I'd usually show you a picture at this point, but I ain't got one! Just imagine it. Looks good doesn't it. Yeah. That's 'cos I've done it.
So with that sorted I banged the sump back on and put the driveshafts on. Then I went to a local hose supplier we use to get my lines made up - which cost me more than I thought but hey - that's life eh.
[URL=http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150703_093918_resized_zpsfnagapmy.jpg.html](http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150703_093918_resized_zpsfnagapmy.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150613_124835_resized_zpsp8ypqvkc.jpg.html)
So there we have oil cooler lines + turbo oil feed & return. Proper job.
I came to put the front legs on but niggling away in my mind was the fact that one of the ARB side-shift stop blocks (i'm sure there's a better name - damned if I can think of it.) wasn't sitting right. I knew I had to sort it but wasn't sure how really. I could of done it by moving the bar across, but it was lined up perfectly - gapped equally each side and I didn't want to mess with the handling. I found out there are two types of 5 speed ARB, and I'd scrapped the wrong one. Shithouse.
Coupled with the fact that getting it off with the engine in place looked like a rate job. So I decided I needed to fix it where it was. Using a metal burr in my die grinder, I wasted away one edge so it would sit flat leaving enough of a flat so as so grip the ARB. On the opposite piece I placed a large tack-weld. Put together it now sits flat against the nylon block, so it's all good. Sitting that close to bends in the ARB, I doubt it would move far anyway, but cornering forces are large ones. Not to be underestimated.
Before...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150716_223437_resized_zps0rh5hpkw.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150716_223437_resized_zps0rh5hpkw.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150716_223516_resized_zpspizciyrb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150716_223516_resized_zpspizciyrb.jpg.html)
Not got an after shot. Imagine it fixed ;D
So with that scoundrel out of the way, I fitted up the front legs, discs & calipers. Then attached the brake lines. Now we're getting somewhere!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010040_zps2ogu1dsx.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010040_zps2ogu1dsx.jpg.html)
Happy with that. Went together like a dream. Looks like a car now and everything!
Just dipping back into engine for a moment, as timmy turbo is over the gearbox I had a chance to look at different piping strategies. Oil return being the hardest to achieve. For the water cooling, I had the idea to use the plastic water manifold from a Mk2, with the water heated manifold take-offs still in tact. I'm using these as flow & return for the turbo as they are right next door. To get from circa Ø22 down to Ø12 I used some plumbing fittings. It's mocked up now, so I'll finish it all up later.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150717_214608_resized_zpswnya1wjs.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150717_214608_resized_zpswnya1wjs.jpg.html)
Here they are off the manifold. Also see the donkey-dick i've used for my turbo cold air feed.....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150717_215812_resized_1_resized_zpsi80ob0xc.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150717_215812_resized_1_resized_zpsi80ob0xc.jpg.html)
I'm lovin' it.
Back to the main event. Big one. Today, I fitted the clutch cable and bled the brakes + got a pedal! ;D To me, it marks another milestone in the build. Apart from linking up the throttle pedal (and all the hard work with the cable has already been done) the Mk3 pedalbox & my vision of the brake I wanted for the build are done! I'm well pleased. Some big items ticked off the list there.
While I was waiting for my mate to come round to help me with the brakes, I thought I'd get on with the shift mech. I bought a gear lever repair kit from Pete a while ago and it's one of those jobs I needed to get round to. Back in't day though, when my Brother & I threw a Coupe S lump in it (with a 5 speed) we doctored the tunnel. We never could quite get the linkage right - one gear always suffered so Dad ended up tweaking the linkage (with a grinder & re-welding it - legend) to get it working. I see why it didn't now, years later. Seeing the 'tweaked' linkage, I though I'd best get another one and start again. I bought one out of a scrapper with the whole box from the tranny tunnel attached. It's quite different on a Mk1 although they use the same parts and obviously the same principle. The actual linkage from the bar to the rod out of the gearbox is different. There is only one angle on the Mk1 bar and it's dog-legged on the Mk2f. The 'shift finger' isn't used on a mk1, the bar goes directly to it.
Anyway I've ditched the Mk1 gear and put the full Mk3 system in with renewed parts. It'll be sound now. Building the new kit up was fine. Needed a little filling out to get the action right and a pin punch for the roll-pin but nothing beyond the wit of man. Should be a good change now.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010039_zpsv469ds5e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010039_zpsv469ds5e.jpg.html)
(spot the deliberate mistake with the above assembly!)
Next up? Not sure. Handbrake cable I suppose. There's a bit of dev to do on that one. Then I think i'm going to put the rest of the glass in & build up the doors. Need to think about getting the dash in too.... exciting times ;)
-
I've been gathering some parts to do the handbrake and getting a couple of bits machined up. They're here now but in the meantime I got involved with putting the dash in.
I finished all the wiring behind the dash first. Standard Mk2f into Mk1 with the additions of full alarm, 2 stage boost control, AFR & Boost gauge wiring & decent stereo wiring.
So these are my parts for two stage boost...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010001_zpsjw1aq09y.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010001_zpsjw1aq09y.jpg.html)
- Switch
- Latching changeover relay
- 12v tell tail LED
- 12v solenoid valve
and wiring the changeover relay in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010004_zps6qzm9kfj.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010004_zps6qzm9kfj.jpg.html)
Here's my switch wiring up the gearstick. It's gonna be ALL good. I'll show you the wiring & fitting of the switch into the gearknob soon.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010003_zpsoglrx01q.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010003_zpsoglrx01q.jpg.html)
Although i've made a GRP gauge pod now (cant find a picture but it does exist...) I've decided after seeing pictures of someone else's car to move the cig lighter and ashtray and use that to house two gauges. AFR & boost. I'm sacking off oil pressure. There's a light & a buzzer. Be rate. I need the stereo where I can easily get to it.
So I moved the 12v socket and added USB to drag it to the 21st century.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010002_zpseh19mvhy.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010002_zpseh19mvhy.jpg.html)
So back in the day I worked for a team building some WTCC cars. We stripped two Lexus LS220d's and I whipped the door speakers. They're mint! Proper rubber suspension & plastic cones. Top notch. They have two mid/tweets with built-in crossover and a 6" component in the doors. I was on with wiring & fitting the speakers into the dash.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010005_zpsitdf8bwq.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010005_zpsitdf8bwq.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010006_zps9otininm.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010006_zps9otininm.jpg.html)
Yeah - I little bit of a 'spesh motorsport' fitment, but they are solid and they'll be fine. They'll last a lot better than the originals anyway! The wires from them have gone through the door gaiters and will be wired in parallel with the woofers, as they were in the lexus.
My bro was over so he gave me a lift to put the dash in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150816_112655_zpsd1aqfrpr.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150816_112655_zpsd1aqfrpr.jpg.html)
(other tools are available.)
As you may remember, I did a lot a pre-fit work on the dash earlier in the build. The initial fitment showed up something i'd forgotten about. The dash wont go far enough back to get the windscreen vent moulded in to the dash to meet up with the HIM module. The passenger side face vent connection was about 15mm short too.
So I sorted the dash with a birra wood, steel & aluminium tape to move the aperture forward roughly 15mm...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010004_zpsyafows2g.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010004_zpsyafows2g.jpg.html)
and Blue Peter'd the vent connection with a bean can (which happened to be the exact diameter!) some PU bond and expanded foam tape.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010003_zpsvxys27bv.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010003_zpsvxys27bv.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010005_zpszfd8te4m.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010005_zpszfd8te4m.jpg.html)
Nice. Then slammed it home + bolted it up...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010006_zpsctmanjp1.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010006_zpsctmanjp1.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/P1010007_zpssij1pgpv.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/P1010007_zpssij1pgpv.jpg.html)
Next up front carpet in, centre consul, dash switches and steering column.
I really could do with a dashboard to steering wheel dimension though. I've asked a couple of times but got no response. Please see the picture below. I need the shortest distance. Standard Mk2f dash and G40/GT wheel.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/20150814_145133_resized_zpscr6wbj4d.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/20150814_145133_resized_zpscr6wbj4d.jpg.html)
If you've enjoyed this thread, then please; do me a favour and get your tape measure out for me :-\
-
Is this what you want? somewhere between 3" & 8cm. From my standard interior wise G40
(http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh565/hartjj/DSCN2352_zpsji4rrtr6.jpg) (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/hartjj/media/DSCN2352_zpsji4rrtr6.jpg.html)
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Joe.
You Sir, are a true Gent. I've been after this dimension for ages.
I didn't really want to guess as it impacts on where the stalks sit & such. Yeah, it probably wouldn't of been far out had I of taken a punt, but it's nice to have it perfect.
Many thanks :) 8)
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Ok.
Rear Interior. I'm leaving the final build of the engine until last, and so concentrating on getting everything else done first. The aim being to get the interior done now.
First though, I got the IC in - took a bit of dicking about the get the speedo cable position right on the Mk1 dash (as it's spring-loaded) but I cracked it. Any idea what the black & red plugs are for? I'm sure its something simple but I've run out of plugs to go in to!!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsuykeedjp.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010026_zpsuykeedjp.jpg.html)
Then welded up the column once it was 100% level, gave it a coat of paint and lobbed it in. Tidy.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010009_zpsrkioax9j.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010009_zpsrkioax9j.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010011_zps4ugct5wl.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010011_zps4ugct5wl.jpg.html)
The Elise seats don't fold forward, so it's two seats all the way! In fairness, I've left all the fixings in so if in future I want to bang rear seats in - it's an easy job. I never intended it to be a four seater, but unlike the Mini (which is full of roll cage and no useful space (not even a glovebox!) this needs to be usable. Load friendly, even. Here's the plan. I make a cover for where the rear seat base would of been. A new seat back and parcel shelf too.
I've done it all out of 3/8" birch ply. It's all hinged together too, so when it's up it looks relatively standard (apart from there are no foams, it's carpeted) and I've got a standard boot and space behind the driver seat to store stuff if needed. But it folds down too, giving me a large load space for camping & lugging stuff around if needed. Check it out....
Made the rear seat base first. It bolts in to the original rear seat back pivot holes.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010013_zpsuqnykbqj.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010013_zpsuqnykbqj.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010014_zpsksbj0mix.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010014_zpsksbj0mix.jpg.html)
As you can see, I've extensively used Jetnuts. They're ace. Allowing the use of standard metric threaded bolts into wood. We use them a lot at work. IKEA use them a lot too haha!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsolaezn1o.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010018_zpsolaezn1o.jpg.html)
Then I made my parcel shelf... (and put a birra detail in it for strength and style too.)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010016_zpsf3o5qbwx.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010016_zpsf3o5qbwx.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010017_zps0mjh4arr.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010017_zps0mjh4arr.jpg.html)
Then connected it all together with the seat back. So here it is, done.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010021_zpsfy1wvcs6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010021_zpsfy1wvcs6.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010022_zps6ekwdg6e.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010022_zps6ekwdg6e.jpg.html)
And here's how it looks put down...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010023_zpsqesfz6tx.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010023_zpsqesfz6tx.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010025_zpsubuygasn.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010025_zpsubuygasn.jpg.html)
The 6x9's in the parcel shelf can be kept in at all times and so will fold down with the shelf. I'll devise a prop to hold the prop up at the right angle. I'll do a combination of covering the easy stuff myself and asking the trimmers at work to help me with the double-sided parts.
I finished the day by installing the rear 3/4 interior panels on both sides and getting the sound cables (both rear speakers + amp phono) to sit correctly under the panel on one side, and the rest of the loom & amp 12v feed & exciter sorted on the other.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010027_zpsyre7luxh.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010027_zpsyre7luxh.jpg.html)
Front & rear carpets next, along with covering the new rear interior parts.
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Hi guys,
There's been quite a bit of progress and this is an update i've been meaning to write for a while. I'm sure i'll miss stuff and gloss over some others, but the most important thing to me, is that it's not far away from a fire-up now (in the grand scheme of things).
My man at work covered my woodwork in the rear for me - being a trimmer by trade, he did a much better job than I could of. It's the same guy who made & fitted my headlining for me. Ledge.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07789_zpsmfm8vft5.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07789_zpsmfm8vft5.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/DSC07790_zpsedtkmnu6.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/DSC07790_zpsedtkmnu6.jpg.html)
Then I sorted the carpets. Cleaned them up first as i'd just ripped them out 4 years ago! Bit of a job making it fit around the new seat mounts and in fairness not the tidiest of finishes but it's fine - I'm being picky.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010030_zpstzc6yw5x.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010030_zpstzc6yw5x.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010043_zps98oalxba.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010043_zps98oalxba.jpg.html)
I needed to re-visit the seat subframes. Mocked & tacked them up at the time, but they needed refining. They needed seatbelt points welding in for the buckles too.
The passenger seat is fixed, drivers moves forward & back. When I put the seat back in now with the headlining in place, there was just not enough headroom. The same problem I had back in the day with my Mk2f GT. Needed a radical solution. The BMW mini seat-runners are really good as they are so adjustable and narrow too. I needed to loose the height of the mechanism to get the seat down as far as possible. To cut a long story and a lot of frowning short, I lost the mechanism which operates the two runners together, then put swapped the right & left runners round on the subframe. It's worked a treat - I have one tab each side of the seat I press which realises each runner. Lost about 50mm in height too. All good.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010050_zpsx9tyelhw.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010050_zpsx9tyelhw.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010052_zps0kcsepvo.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010052_zps0kcsepvo.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010057_zpsd0hg2ni3.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010057_zpsd0hg2ni3.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010055_zpsxppqykll.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010055_zpsxppqykll.jpg.html)
So I've got the seats & belts in.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010060_zps4putfoqe.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010060_zps4putfoqe.jpg.html)
Sticking with the interior, turned my attention to the gearknob with integral switch for changing the boost state, and after that the auxiliary gauges.
So first, I got my pool ball and bought a tap for the random thread pitch! Then used some plywood in my machine vise to stop the ball from being marked, and drilled it out like this:
1) Spent a lot of time lining it up in the vice.
2) Ø5mm pilot right through.
3) switch rebate - Ø19mm wood bit.
4) switch body clearance drill to depth.
5) used 5mm drill to line up ball 180° round in vice.
6) gearstick tapping drill Ø through.
7) tap for gearstick.
8) fit & admire.
9) brew.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010031_zpsmzpdzdh0.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010031_zpsmzpdzdh0.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010032_zps4naaywcj.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010032_zps4naaywcj.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010035_zpssh0c5v2c.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010035_zpssh0c5v2c.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010037_zpshpcbdfmf.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010037_zpshpcbdfmf.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010040_zpsdx5aeewg.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010040_zpsdx5aeewg.jpg.html)
It looks good. When I tighten it up straight, the last quarter turn will cut threads and hold it in place.
The dash is more of an organic shape than I thought. The template I knocked up in ally for the aux gauge pod as symmetrical didn't fit, so got some pizza box cardboard and got busy making a new template...
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010059_zpsxhscilqp.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010059_zpsxhscilqp.jpg.html)
That fits better. So I made it out of ally (again!) folded it up, cut the holes & got the gauges out for a shufty.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010067_zps44mwsonb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010067_zps44mwsonb.jpg.html)
Then got the boys at work to knock me up a faceplate on the router while I painted it black and bonded on some plastic sides to cap it all in....
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010071_zpsw4l0nmos.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010071_zpsw4l0nmos.jpg.html)
Gotta have a birra fun eh?!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010072_zpselyyflrb.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010072_zpselyyflrb.jpg.html)
It took me an age to find out that the Mk1 interior light is in the dash! I couldn't remember and thought I'd missed it out in the headlining. So anyway I took the opportunity to put it in the base of the aux panel. So the LED under the boost gauge tells me when the bleed valve is switched in. The WOT led tells me when the ECU is seeing WOT, which is handy in conjunction with the AFR.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/polo%20build/P1010074_zpsly68wiou.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/polo%20build/P1010074_zpsly68wiou.jpg.html)
Back under the beast, there are two things which need my attention before the car can be put on the floor. Handbrake cable and exhaust. I'm mating Mk4 golf cables to the original Mk1 polo front cable. I found a NoS front cable on eBay which I fitted, then worked on the rear cable. I've cut the cable sleeves down on both the LH & RH cable. Drilled through & counterbored an M14 bolt for each side to hold the outer sleeves and cut the inner cables down to be joined. I sent the M14 bolts went for re-plating (BZP) so they wont seize. CABLE-TEC joined the cables for me (in fact, they ditched the original inners in favour of one complete new cable the right length with new ends) and I fitted it earlier today. Works a treat and I've got adjustability at three points of the system. Bonus.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_5440_zpsfexenxhe.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/IMG_5440_zpsfexenxhe.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_5438_zps0q5axpfm.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/IMG_5438_zps0q5axpfm.jpg.html)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af295/shibbyreet/IMG_5439_zpsgww6t9oe.jpg) (http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/shibbyreet/media/IMG_5439_zpsgww6t9oe.jpg.html)
Obviously those are pictures of the mock-up so I could get the cable lengths right.
So I'm trying to set myself up for a few days over Christmas. A539 rubber is going on wheels, the bumpers are being pulled back, re-textured and painted matt black in PU, Andy blew me a chip with a 'safe' map which is going in the ECU, and I've pulled the doors, 'gate and bonnet out of storage & I'm building them up too.
Happy days :D
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very tidy as always!
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Just read through all this build thread, proper good stuff going on here. Keep the updates coming ;)
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How was the start up? All running smoothly? Any final pics?