Author Topic: Mk1 G40 Turbo  (Read 36458 times)

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #105 on: March 30, 2015, 09:45:13 pm »
It's home, but before it came home it got the headlining I was on about.

Top job. used 3mm foam backed material in the end. Swapped the sun visors round so now they are black in the 'up' position. They are cream when they are down. I could of re-covered them but I'm not going nuts. It fine. It's better than fine, it's mint.

Got it home (minus panels which are stashed at work for now) but again, before getting it on the trailer I went a bit nuts with the waxoyl.

I wanted to get it on the underseal ramp, but the bogey was too narrow, so I brushed it on once it was home. (In retrospect, I should of 'found a way' and sprayed it, but hey - you live & learn. It's done now.

heat it up.....

and brush on.

Then I bunged it back on axle stands and did the first 6" underneath. It's already got a coating in decent nick, so I didnt need to go mad. That, and it's MINGING gear. Horrible. Glad that's over, although working underneath still seems to cover me in the stuff.

Anyway, what with the etch prime, terroson rubberising spray, waxoyl & underseal - it should'nt rust in the near.....

'bay looks good dunnit...

Time to put some stuff back!!! So I started with Mk2f (3) loom and looking at the fuel lines.

Then released I need to do a little 'rough' painting inside before tying the loom down, so I concentrated on the fuel system. Reckon I've got the positioning pretty much sussed. Confident in where the accumulator & pump go, I put in some riv-nuts and hung it without the bobbins. It's looking good.

I've ordered the bobbins, but the lines look too long on the Mk1 - not sure yet. Also, there's 3 lines. I think the randomer is for the charcoal cannister so I'll ditch that. Should get some time BH monday so have a tinker next - looking forward to it!

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #106 on: April 06, 2015, 09:25:30 pm »
Let me start of by saying that a Mk3 tank is not a direct fit into a Mk1. Mine isnt anyway. Could be a copy tank with slightly different dimensions though. Either way, it was close, but no cigar. Interfered with the hard brakeline mount on the LH side. I could of got creative with my grinder, but now paint's been laid I'm doing as little as possible on that front. I didnt take any pictures - wasn't in the mood.

I'm going to buy a Mk1 tank & punch the bottom out. It means I can bang the whole Mk1 handbrake assy back on too (apart from constructing some bits for the the golf GTi rears) so that should be less of a pain in the 'arris. I've got a decent Mk3 tank for sale now, so that'll go towards it. I got on with putting in the rubber bobbins and hanging the pump assy. All good.

Undeterred with the tank (and after another brew) I sifted through some parts I got down from the loft. I fitted the HIM module and pulled all the looms out and began to work through where they all went. The other weekend, I picked up a GT damped steering rack and during the week I gave that a clean in the parts washer at work and fitted that too. With a few parts in place, and with pictures of all the cars I've pillaged parts off, and Andy's minter I was able to piece it all together.

The eagle eyed of you will see i've done a little internal painting too - nothing to write home about, just getting things looking right.

My air inlet is where normally the large grommet goes for the lighting loom. I'm using the Mk1 header tank so I plonked that on and bored a new hole for it underneath. It was a smaller hole (as space permitted) so I swapped the grommet out for a smaller one. Also, the main engine loom hole in the bulkhead (central) was much smaller on the original, so I bored that out. Then I fitted up all the looms and worked out where things went.

So without going into minute detail, I fitted a lot of parts today to look at a lot of stuff. Not all of what's fitted now will stay. There's loads on the go, and it's exciting! Jess is away next weekend, so I've got a whole host of things listed to do. In honesty, it wont look a lot different at the end of next weekend, but a lot more will be fixed in place...

Offline Andy

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #107 on: April 07, 2015, 07:50:47 am »
Looking good!

In case it helps - Automec do kunifer pipe kits for the Polos which are reasonably priced. I've only go a cheap (i.e. crap) flaring tool, so buying some ready-crimped stuff was a life saver.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #108 on: April 12, 2015, 04:52:17 pm »
My working week is normally Monday-Thursday, but it's rare I get a Friday off these days. However; come last Thursday afternoon the job list for the week was looking achievable by Thursday night, so I did a little graft & stayed a little late in the knowledge that Jess was away this weekend visiting friends abroad, and I had a lots of jobs to do on the Polo and the chance to bang in a couple of decent shifts.

Looking at the pictures I posted last, I knew that the jobs I had to do wouldn't make it look much further on, but in real terms it's all valuable work done.

I started with the ECU. Roughtly in place, I needed to fix it down properly and work out where the two relays were going to sit too. I Ummm'd & Ahh'd about riviting it straight down to the bulkhead/making a new bracket/altering the O.E bracket. It needs to be off the floor, as techinically it's a gutter. I butchered the O.E bracket, making new mounts, cutting off the old ones and relocating the bracket for the relays. Seeing  I had some other relays to mount, I copied the profile a couple of times on to steel, should I need it later.

So I'm happy with that. Looks neat and the angle I've set the ECU at keeps the loom out the way of the air inlet through the bulkhead. I also took some time to tidy up the looms and tie them up out of the way, across the bulkhead.

I carried on the tidying theme inside. I used a clip and a few tie wraps to hold things up inside. The thing is, there's about £200% more loom than in the Mk1, and all the tie points & clips are different to the Mk3. I'm not about to drill it to the point of being a colinder either, so tie wraps are fine - used properly and what they were designed for.

The G40 engine loom I bought (the VERY first part I bought, which Mat (OldskoolMat) hooked me up with,) was marked up which helps, but three years later (and being written on parcel tape with dry wipe marker) a lot had rubbed off or become unreadable. No matter, got the Haynes out and marked it back up. all good.

Then I tackled mating the Mk3 loom to Mk1 just behind the heelboard. I had already belled out the Mk1 loom earlier in the build, so I knew what wires were what. Haynes told me the rest.

There are a couple of anomalies when doing this.

- I am using the wash tank & setup from the Mk3, so I took the tank out of the rear and it's replaced by a washer fluid pipe coming from the front, so there's a redundant 12v supply in the mk1 loom.

- On the Mk1, the numberplate lamp backed off the sidelight supply - on the mk3 it's seperate, so I left the Mk1 one in and there's a redundant 12v supply fromt the Mk3 loom going backwards.

- Heated screen wire is black on the Mk3 and white on the Mk1 -just joined them.

- Wiper motor feed colours also differed.

In fairness, it was quite straight forward. I joined it all up (soldered with heat shrink) and I was left with the two heavy wires for the fuel pump and the washer fluid pipe. BOOM!

It's all tidied up and pinned back now. As all that was in, I did a bit of fun stuff, cleaned up & put the rear clusters back in. Also put the vents back in the rear pillar while I was around that end of the car.

I drilled the hole in the boot floor for the fuel pump wires and (knowing that a healthy voltage is required to the pump for best performance) soldered the terminals on and fitted all that up with the rubber caps.

As I was on the fuel system, I stripped out the third line (for the charcoal can) and scrapped it, then clipped up the lines under the car and into the 'bay. Nice!

Some of the plastic parts knocking on for 35 years old are a bit brittle, so the rear parcel shelf supports needed some reinforcement with the thin plastic before putting them back in. You know the dance kid, cut some placky - bond er'up. Sorted.

Back on the front end, I fitted up the Mk3 4 litre wash tank, connected the rearward pipe and cleaned & fitted the front lights - mainly so I could get the lighting loom in the right place. I also cut the indicator wires off at the fitting and soldered on some male Lucar's to match the indicator units in the bumper.

Before I can put the dashboard in, everything behind it needs to be figured out and in place. We all know what an arse it is working with the dash in when you've got a problem. There's a few bits to this, and I'm not quite there with it yet. I need some more parts too. I know what they are now though as I made a list. I'll get on the drum n' bass with ordering those next week.

Brake piping is coming soon, and to do that I need the master cylinder in place to make the pipes. Obviously for that, you need the servo in place, so pedal box has to go in. It also has to go in before the dash. So I bolted it all up. I got a Mk3 throttle pedal the other week too, which aided proceedings.

It's looking good. I gave the servo a quick blast of matt black too while I was at it.

I want to be 100% sure of the proximity of the throttle pedal the the brake pedal, and I think I need a new cable - the one I've got is a bit shagged really. I'll take a look at a Mk3 before doing that and putting in any holes I later regret.

Anyway, I batted on with hooking up all the heater controls and getting that working nicely from a combination of two sets of components I've gathered along the way. I gave a bit of thought to the gauges I'll be putting in the stereo aperture and the feeds I'll need for that, so I backed off an illumination feed and an ignition live for the AFR. The AFR is the only one which will need a feed. Boost gauge will be manual (standard really) but so will the oil pressure gauge. I prefer a nice analogue pressure gauge.

As it's having central locking, and I've got the whole thing in bits I though I'd go the whole hog with an alarm so I've got that to wire in now. It doesn't seem too complicated. More complex is having it installed but overriding it for the time being so I can get the car working without the added complication of mastering the alarm!! But I can do that. Should be fine.

I'm also thinking about the stereo (not 100% sure where it's going yet - top of the centre consul is looking favourite at present.) I cut off all the gash stereo wiring from the past and got back to basics with an ignition live, perm live, illumination & ground. I'm starting again. I'll run all those wires too before I put the carpet down. The speaker wires are going into the doors through the same gaiters which I'm putting the services for the locking solenoids. You may remember me working out the metalwork side of things earlier in the build.

Lastly for this update, thinking more about the gauges and there position, I wanted to do something a little nicer than putting them into a flat plate in the stereo aperture, so I've designed up a faceplate. The idea being for the gauges to face me a bit more.

I'll extend the depth of it, have that CNC cut out of a block of MDF, then make a GRP mould and take a print. I've got a strategy for holding it in place sorted out, but we'll go into that once I'm got a bit further on with the component.

So a load of work done, not a great deal to show for it but technically moving me a lot further on. Doubt I'll get a block of time like that again for a while.

Still, housework has to be done. Sometimes even THAT can work to your advantage.....

Offline Yoof

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #109 on: April 12, 2015, 08:19:43 pm »
Quality as usual mate  8)

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #110 on: April 19, 2015, 04:36:07 pm »
Got some more wires to put in.

not sure whether i'm running an amp or not (it's definitely having a decent stereo) but I'm running the wires anyway. Now's the time. Don't have to use them.

As with any good stereo wiring - voltage down one side (LH, as with the rest of the loom) and sound down the other side to avoid any interference - RCA cable + rear speaker wires.

Put my door gaiters in and ran the locking solenoid wires and speaker cables for later.

I got in early and bought a few parts off Robin. Was good to see his car, talk through some stuff and generally get some more views about what I'm doing from someone who's played about with G's for years. I needed a decent throttle cable and got it, so I fitted that. On the Mk3, it goes forward at an angle. I didn't realise that or make an angled base for it. Never mind. It'll work striaght up too. Although, it seems the inner arch detail is a bit different form Mk1 to Mk3, and would restrict throttle travel. I did a bit of educated guess work + a quick mock-up and altered the cable to suit.

as you can see, I've knocked a bit out of the solid length to account for the difference in the floor. I didn't get it right the first time. Made a schoolboy error;  once i'd piled it with weld I though I'd best quench it for the heat transfer kills the rubber on the end. By the time I got to the bucket it had dropped off!

Luckily, I had an old second cable. This time, I filed off the yellow passivate finish (to give me a better weld) joined it further up (to minimise heat transfer - although not a lot) and got a quench milk bottle ready!!


It was fine after that. Sorted. Gives me a good travel.

Happy with that. Like a dick, for some unknown reason I plated up the throttle cable hole. It's coming back out this week when I borrow a Ø45mm hole saw from work. not sure what I was thinking there. Probably that the speedo cable hole was for the throttle. That's the problem with not having a Mk3 datum on the drive to work from! Well, it's easier to take stuff out than to put back in eh.

Fuel tank. I've looked at another mk1 and a mk3. I'm cutting the mk3 tank down. (As I cant get hold of a mk1 tank.) There was a bit of old fuel in the mk3 tank which I couldnt get out, so I pulled the lift pump out and very gingerly cut a 2" hole at the lowest point of the tank (which i'm cutting off.)

not fun, but I took it real easy & took my time. That, and old fuel is a lot less potent. Then, I needed a way to dry the tank out before I cut it about.

So I cracked out the old PC fan & 12 volt! I'll leave that for a few days now all the old fuel has gone and I'm just getting rid of vapours. Be rate. There's a fiant blue line roughly where i'll shut the tank. It's all to do with the Mk1 handbrake mech I'm retaining. I reckon it's knocking 25% volume out of the tank. I'm not really bothered. It's not a GT car.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #111 on: April 26, 2015, 09:48:33 pm »
Well gang, throttle cable is in now -all good.

Some goodies arrived in time for the weekend....

Before that though, I'd been dicking about with the fuel tank. You'll be pleased to hear I'm still alive. (Well, most of you will be anyway.) I cut out what I thought I needed to and shoved it back in for a squiz.

The plan was to just cut the bottom section away, leaving the tank as big as possible above.

No dice. The Mk1 handbrake mech is lower than the mid-point of the tank, so I ended lopping off a good 25% - as a real Mk1 tank would be.


So I cut a wooden blank of the aperture, then chamfered the edges. I'll cut a zintec steel blank a bit larger, screw it centrally to the blank and hammer-form it round, to make an endcap. I could just cut a flat 'size' blank and weld it in, but you'll get more weld slag on the inside of a fillet weld than a butt weld, so it's a better option. I'll form the endcap and TIG the whole thing in. The old tank also had some front take offs (I imagine for earlier carb'd variants.) I've cut them out too while I was about it.

So if you want a Mk1 tank - I'M YOUR BOY!  8) ;D

I've been doing a lot of research & debating about brake piping lately. People seem to do it differently (but get the same results.) I talked to a couple of G40 guru's, VW specialists, looked at a couple of cars, consulted pictures and talked to our Type Approval consultant at work too. The long & short of it is, the 22.2mm master cylinder gives 4 equal outputs of pressure. So blocking one outlet off means I can use the front two ports for the front cal's and one rear output to go backward into a bias valve, split with a tee afterwards. Sound.

So armed with a roll of Kunifer, Dad's AWESOME brake flaring tool,

and a bender, (easy now boys)

I cracked on. And before you say it - yeah, I know you're meant to bend after the fitting, but there wasn't enough pressure to damage the thread, and it gave me a tighter radius. Get involved.

I didn't want it looking shit, so I took my time. Thought about it. Got the brews in, then smashed it out.

It's not perfect, but neither am I. It's as close as I'm realistically going to get. There's more to do though. It's all got to come off yet to put the fittings on the other end. Cue another load of research. Long story short? To use the larger Vauxhall calipers with Mk2 GTi discs, you need Lupo front brake lines, as they have banjo fittings into the cal's, unlike the VW 256 offerings. So it's Lupo fronts & std G40 rear braided lines next. Once I get those, I'm cookin'. I can clip them all in to place, done. I'm going to mount the bias valve underneath the car (next to the cut-down tank) and make a splash guard. It's gonna be sweet.

I needed to do the same de-scale op on the front suspension components as I did on the rear axle, so I got busy with the cup-brush in the Manchester sunshiiiiiiine.

Got a birra paintin' to do, shag.

My contact has come through on the suspension front, so I'll be ordering that this week. Tidy. Finish the brake pipework, sort the tank, fit it, and then once the suspension arrives I can think about bolting the rear axle up. Let's not get ahead of ourselves though - birra work before that day comes.

Offline physicsfool

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #112 on: April 26, 2015, 10:52:37 pm »
A wish to look inside a mk2f fuel tank has finally come true. Thanks for that.

Work is looking top as usual.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #113 on: May 17, 2015, 08:02:43 pm »

Birra etch primer and some hammerite. STANDARD.

Done the tank too - guess how it fits.....

In fairness, it was a bit of a tw@. I went to work, knocked up the endcap and brought the tank in so I could fit it up. At the start of welding it, I knew it wasn't going to be the seamless job I'd hoped of. For starters, it needed shortening by 3mm. So I ended up just getting in there and lopping 3mm out, rather than cutting the pattern back and reforming the edge. I seam welded it inside to make sure it was tight. It went in after that, but I knew the weld wasn't as good as I wanted it to be. I considered leaving any testing, but after that I knew it had to happen. So I filled it with water.

It was like a colinder.

Ok, maybe not THAT bad, 4 or 5 leaks. I started by emptying the tank each time & applying a weld where needed. By the end, I was tipping a bit out and going back into the 'shop and banging it it where-ever it was coming out!!

I essence, I got it water tight. But fuel is lighter than air. So I dried it out (with my computer fan over a couple of days) then hit it with £2.10 of ESSO's finest. Yeah, you probably need a full tank to replicate the exact pressure on the joints it'll see in service, but three things -

1) That's 40 odd quid
2) I'd got to dry it all out again and risk hitting it with a MIG plant.

It was sound. WINNER. So I etch primed it and hit it with the same TERROSON (Merc approved) product I used on the rest of the car. Knocking 20mm out of the filler neck made it fill-able too...



So that's done. Yeah, I've fitted the WILWOOD bias too. It's not a rally car, and one day I might want to throw rear seats in it, so I mounted it underneath. I'll put a splash guard on that and cover the thread in grease.

I just need a little bit more kunifer to finish it off. Easy.

HEL brakelines arrived. In answer to the question on the forum (which no-one answered..... - there are a few from me..) For Vaux front cal's and disc rears (using std hard-lines from the cal to the fixed point on the axle) then you need Lupo 1.4 Sport fronts (with the banjo for the vaux cal's) and std G40 rears. Boom.

I took the opportunity while the brake flaring tool was out to finish the fronts and make up the rears on axle. The M12x1.0 fittings were not quite long enough to bottom out in the cal's, so I put a cheeky little chamfer in there to get what I needed. All good.

It's ready to go on BABY. Doing that on your own is a bit of a hassle, but I sorted it. In an ideal world, my suspension has arrived and it's fully built up, but that's not where we are. I should be able to fit the rears with the axle on (pretty sure I remember doing so on my Mk3 GT back in the day) so i'll tackle that once it arrives. It's en-route from Germany now.

I've got a scheme worked out for the rear handbrake cables using the Mk4 golf items. It's gonna be sweet and simple. I'll just get CABLE-TEC to joint them once I've sorted the length out. All in good time.

I've got all my parted ready for the front apart from the shocks & springs! So it's all ready to go once they arrive and it'll be showing 4 hubs. NICE.

I've done a lot of work on the front suspension apart from painting the hubs too. Ages ago, I bought an old Stage 2 PPP subby from AD G40 which was a bit battle-scarred from lows but easily serviceable. While mooching about with the fuel tank, I plated up one of the bars where it had a long standing argument with speedbumps.

And painted that, in the way by which you all know.

I looked at my original bottom arms and after thinking about changing one, was advised to change both. It was a good call. Before fitting, I took the brand new arms and chopped out the inner bushes and replaced them with powerflex items. I want the track to remain the same, but again - it's not a track car predominantly so those bushes are fine. I'm not forking out over the odds for sphericals - I doubt I'd notice the difference. The outers (ARB) I've kept O.E rubber on purpose for some compliance. So I mounted up the ARB (with the PPP blocks) and the subframe + the TCA's. Then fitted the HEL lines, as described earlier. Finished the brakelines underneath and refitted then all under the bonnet, then put the steering arms back on. It's looking good  8)

The workshop needed a tidy - it was looking like a right 'hole. Then something popped out to say hello.....

That's right ladies & gents, the naughty '40 lump  :D

So I dusted her down and made a list, then got some parts out of the loft. Like all 'core G40 owners, I bought another ATV along the way, and legend has it that it's 20k down on the on trial-fitted at present (that, and the other other has what appears to be a sound thrust-release bearing!!) so I'm swapping out before even trying it. Good to have a spare though. Also got my Kevlar wear plate to put in there too. Seems to be a LUK item.

So I'm waiting for Billies and for some engine rebuild bits (flywheel bolts) before I go any further. I need to find (and borrow!) a local engine crane too. Not looking long before I drop the mill back in! Few engine build bits to do before then. Nothing major.

Offline Yoof

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #114 on: May 17, 2015, 08:42:19 pm »
Quality mate, proper stuff!

Offline PeteG40

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #115 on: May 17, 2015, 10:16:49 pm »
proper job!

one thing tho - i always thought it was sensible for a flexi to go into the calipers... golfs have 6 flexi lines for this.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #116 on: May 18, 2015, 10:19:34 am »

Cheers boys  ;D

Yeah, in hindsight I might of got some custom flexi lines made for the rears to go from the body hangers straight to caliper but it's the old thing - they cost more if they're bespoke. The std length Mk2f flexi's will be fine once full droop is controlled by the shocks being on and the hard lines only took me time to make.

Offline mark_crox

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #117 on: June 11, 2015, 10:58:19 am »
Bit late I guess but I used Mk4 golf rear pipes as they go from Flexi-copper. I cut down the copper and just flared it where it needed to meet the bracket on the beam.

Cheap from ECP too.

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #118 on: July 26, 2015, 07:43:53 pm »
Got an update for ya..... this one's relatively big! I'll concentrate on the stuff which stands out, as opposed to standard rebuilt stuff you'll see on every car, or it could get samey.

So I've put the engine in. All good.

But before that, got my fuel hoses sorted in the 'bay.

Yeah man!

Alternator was a bit tight though. If you remember, earlier in the build I found it was tight and cut a chuck off the mounting flange. Anyway, it needed a bespoke adjuster.

Gave it a lick o'paint and put it on for real.

Billies arrived. Tidy. Managed to launch the top mounts by mistake - arse. First, I checked out a colleagues Mk2 so I refreshed my mind exactly what I was looking for.

that's the rascal...

Then I got some off a Nissan Micra that looked around the same. The mounts under the turret are from the original car, ain't nothin' changed.,

So I got my rear shocks & springs on, and it's all looking tight  8)

**(i'm picking this update up where I started writing it a while ago, so sorry if it sounds a little dis-jointed.)**

What else?

Finished all the brake piping out of the bias valve. The fittings out of wilwood stuff are a real pain. Really odd American sizes. I thought i'd got away with it by drilling out some fittings but they were taper threads. Schoolboy error. I had to bite the bullet and buy some expensive (relatively) adaptors to get me out of trouble. This meant ditching an olive on the end of a pipe and re-doing it shorter to account for the adaptor. The engine was in by now and getting the pipe back off was going to be a tw@ so I did it in situ....


technical bodge. Well, less than a bodge & more of a get-out. With the piping all done, it's a case of getting the front legs on, finishing the pipe work on the front and attemping to bleed the system, but before that a whole chain of things had to happen...

To put the front legs on I needed to put the driveshafts on. To put the driveshafts on I need to put the sump on properly. To put the sump on properly I need to weld in the turbo oil return. To weld on the turbo oil return I need to decide on pipework routing. And to do that ladies & gents, I needed to dress the 'bay and get my head back in to where things were going. See what I mean?!

To cut a long & drawn out story to a sensible length, my oil return went in the same place as everyone else puts theirs. I just wanted to be sure I couldn't route it anywhere better first. As there's no real pressure on the return line, I didn't go all dash-fitting on 'cho ass. I kept it real with a piece of pipe! I'd usually show you a picture at this point, but I ain't got one! Just imagine it. Looks good doesn't it. Yeah. That's 'cos I've done it.

So with that sorted I banged the sump back on and put the driveshafts on. Then I went to a local hose supplier we use to get my lines made up - which cost me more than I thought but hey - that's life eh.


So there we have oil cooler lines + turbo oil feed & return. Proper job.

I came to put the front legs on but niggling away in my mind was the fact that one of the ARB side-shift stop blocks (i'm sure there's a better name - damned if I can think of it.) wasn't sitting right. I knew I had to sort it but wasn't sure how really. I could of done it by moving the bar across, but it was lined up perfectly - gapped equally each side and I didn't want to mess with the handling. I found out there are two types of 5 speed ARB, and I'd scrapped the wrong one. Shithouse.

Coupled with the fact that getting it off with the engine in place looked like a rate job. So I decided I needed to fix it where it was. Using a metal burr in my die grinder, I wasted away one edge so it would sit flat leaving enough of a flat so as so grip the ARB. On the opposite piece I placed a large tack-weld. Put together it now sits flat against the nylon block, so it's all good. Sitting that close to bends in the ARB, I doubt it would move far anyway, but cornering forces are large ones. Not to be underestimated.


Not got an after shot. Imagine it fixed  ;D

So with that scoundrel out of the way, I fitted up the front legs, discs & calipers. Then attached the brake lines. Now we're getting somewhere!!

Happy with that. Went together like a dream. Looks like a car now and everything!

Just dipping back into engine for a moment, as timmy turbo is over the gearbox I had a chance to look at different piping strategies. Oil return being the hardest to achieve. For the water cooling, I had the idea to use the plastic water manifold from a Mk2, with the water heated manifold take-offs still in tact. I'm using these as flow & return for the turbo as they are right next door. To get from circa Ø22 down to Ø12 I used some plumbing fittings. It's mocked up now, so I'll finish it all up later.

Here they are off the manifold. Also see the donkey-dick i've used for my turbo cold air feed.....

I'm lovin' it.

Back to the main event. Big one. Today, I fitted the clutch cable and bled the brakes + got a pedal! ;D To me, it marks another milestone in the build. Apart from linking up the throttle pedal (and all the hard work with the cable has already been done) the Mk3 pedalbox & my vision of the brake I wanted for the build are done! I'm well pleased. Some big items ticked off the list there.

While I was waiting for my mate to come round to help me with the brakes, I thought I'd get on with the shift mech. I bought a gear lever repair kit from Pete a while ago and it's one of those jobs I needed to get round to. Back in't day though, when my Brother & I threw a Coupe S lump in it (with a 5 speed) we doctored the tunnel. We never could quite get the linkage right - one gear always suffered so Dad ended up tweaking the linkage (with a grinder & re-welding it - legend) to get it working. I see why it didn't now, years later. Seeing the 'tweaked' linkage, I though I'd best get another one and start again. I bought one out of a scrapper with the whole box from the tranny tunnel attached. It's quite different on a Mk1 although they use the same parts and obviously the same principle. The actual linkage from the bar to the rod out of the gearbox is different. There is only one angle on the Mk1 bar and it's dog-legged on the Mk2f. The 'shift finger' isn't used on a mk1, the bar goes directly to it.

Anyway I've ditched the Mk1 gear and put the full Mk3 system in with renewed parts. It'll be sound now. Building the new kit up was fine. Needed a little filling out to get the action right and a pin punch for the roll-pin but nothing beyond the wit of man. Should be a good change now.

(spot the deliberate mistake with the above assembly!)

Next up? Not sure. Handbrake cable I suppose. There's a bit of dev to do on that one. Then I think i'm going to put the rest of the glass in & build up the doors. Need to think about getting the dash in too.... exciting times  ;)

Offline dubstar

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Re: Mk1 G40 Turbo
« Reply #119 on: August 16, 2015, 09:35:14 pm »
I've been gathering some parts to do the handbrake and getting a couple of bits machined up. They're here now but in the meantime I got involved with putting the dash in.

I finished all the wiring behind the dash first. Standard Mk2f into Mk1 with the additions of full alarm, 2 stage boost control, AFR & Boost gauge wiring & decent stereo wiring.

So these are my parts for two stage boost...

- Switch
- Latching changeover relay
- 12v tell tail LED
- 12v solenoid valve

and wiring the changeover relay in.

Here's my switch wiring up the gearstick. It's gonna be ALL good. I'll show you the wiring & fitting of the switch into the gearknob soon.

Although i've made a GRP gauge pod now (cant find a picture but it does exist...) I've decided after seeing pictures of someone else's car to move the cig lighter and ashtray and use that to house two gauges. AFR & boost. I'm sacking off oil pressure. There's a light & a buzzer. Be rate. I need the stereo where I can easily get to it.

So I moved the 12v socket and added USB to drag it to the 21st century.

So back in the day I worked for a team building some WTCC cars. We stripped two Lexus LS220d's and I whipped the door speakers. They're mint! Proper rubber suspension & plastic cones. Top notch. They have two mid/tweets with built-in crossover and a 6" component in the doors. I was on with wiring & fitting the speakers into the dash.

Yeah - I little bit of a 'spesh motorsport' fitment, but they are solid and they'll be fine. They'll last a lot better than the originals anyway! The wires from them have gone through the door gaiters and will be wired in parallel with the woofers, as they were in the lexus.

My bro was over so he gave me a lift to put the dash in.

(other tools are available.)

As you may remember, I did a lot a pre-fit work on the dash earlier in the build. The initial fitment showed up something i'd forgotten about. The dash wont go far enough back to get the windscreen vent moulded in to the dash to meet up with the HIM module. The passenger side face vent connection was about 15mm short too.

So I sorted the dash with a birra wood, steel & aluminium tape to move the aperture forward roughly 15mm...

and Blue Peter'd the vent connection with a bean can (which happened to be the exact diameter!) some PU bond and expanded foam tape.

Nice. Then slammed it home + bolted it up...

Next up front carpet in, centre consul, dash switches and steering column.

I really could do with a dashboard to steering wheel dimension though. I've asked a couple of times but got no response. Please see the picture below. I need the shortest distance. Standard Mk2f dash and G40/GT wheel.

If you've enjoyed this thread, then please; do me a favour and get your tape measure out for me  :-\