Help - Please:-) - WHAT THE FOOK! interesting results inside

[dub-disaster]

You don't really wanna do that mate not after all the work you put in to be defeated by a couple of very small running issues, just keep trying maybe take it to a few specialists see what they think.

[PeteG40]

have you done the electrical as well as mechanical timing?

[Andy]

Replied to your PM.

Stick with it.

[youngprodigys]

back to where i was 1month ago

now it turns on and the engine runs with the alternator charging correctly.
Misfire at idle and the hesitation when the throttle is blipped i think has been fixed also - rear breather in the block was blocked up really bad - and it was breathing out of the oil filler cap. so im guessing it was breathing up through the rings into the combustion chamber! which might explain why there was water vapour in the exhaust.

Could this be the answer to Ben Harrisons G40?? same symptoms as mine

[youngprodigys]

well it wasnt the oil breather being blocked that was making any difference. car turns on and then cuts out. nothing changed.
im hoping when Andy comes over for a look he cant find out the fault - or everything is for sale im not even joking - ive gone from having a car i adored to something i cant even bare to look at

[hardchargin40]

So is it idling ok now as per your post on the 22nd March or starting then cutting out?

Does it drive ok or misfiring?

So poss could be idle pot M/S, coil (changed it?), bad map, or ECU sensor wiring (get it started and unplug the blue CTS or lambda).  I had a wiring fault on my old red G, bleedin nightmare to eventually diagnose.

[youngprodigys]

I only got it idling by adjusting the co2 pot well out of bounds. now it's set to 550ohms it starts and cuts out. all ignition components are brand new. it's running rich as the plugs are black. when cleaning it all out Saturday I found lots of black water in the inlet manifold- WTF has caused this? barring in mind all components have been cleaned before this engine was assembled.
if I disconnect the blue temp sender it will not start. this is brand new vag and is working perfect as I checked it in boiling water and it's right.
the lambda probe makes no difference to the running if I unplug it or not. doesn't run for long enough for me to test anything.
must be 1000s in brand new parts for this engine and it runs shit.
anyone had these symptoms before?

oh and my loom is new- I built it from scratch and have tested each wire does what it should 12v,  5v earth etc etc as per the autodata pin out. earths are good aswell as I have ran additional earths to the inlet etc etc.

[Yoof]

What injectors and map are you running?

Have you altered the stock vacuum system in anyway?

[youngprodigys]

injectors are G60's and the map is a Gwerks map to suit spec.
when I get the bugger running and mot'd I was going to get different injectors and a proper custom map like I did with PSD before.

vacuum system consists of the original vacuum 1way valve with new vacuum tubing to original lengths. BUT the pipe to the brake servo from the 1way valve is different. can't see what difference this would have tbh. haven't tried removing servo pipe and blocking it up.

do you know what the black water stuff is yoof?

[Yoof]

I don't think G-Werks have an eaton map, you've been sold something generic (probably SNS Stage 5 for greens) which might explain the crap running.

The black water stuff you describe is strange and without smelling it I don't know... I'd check your boost pipes and make sure there's no water got in via the BRV when washing it etc.

[Yoof]

Run it for as long as you can and take a pic of the plugs, then upload it here 

[youngprodigys]

plugs were black when i took them out - indicating over fueling.

i specifically told them about my setup and told them its was one of steves Eaton kits and they said they had access to his map collection and could sort me out.

The black water wasnt petrol and didnt smell of anything.
Cannot be boost return as all the pipework from the charger to the inlet is brand new and so is the intercooler - all has been custom made. and it has no boost return.
i have washed it all out using petrol now so its back to clean and shit free.

[Yoof]

Back to basics then- cam timing first, followed by ignition once the engine is warm with blue temp sensor unplugged.

Fluid sounds like water... unless it's the charger oil system leaking.

[youngprodigys]

problem is - i cant get it to stay on long enough to do it. just got all my diagnostics setup and before i got to check the sensors were in paramaters i snapped the lug of the vacuum lead for the ecu....DOH! so il get a new 1 tomorrow and see whats in parameters.
to get it to stay on i need to adjust the co2 pot to something like 2k ohms which cant be very good.
me and my mate checked all of the ECU pins again tonight - all wires go to the correct senders/switchs and at the correct pins so i know its all intact.
hopefully its something simple.

Has anyone else had to adjust the co2 pot well out of range to get it running?
Andy says he will pop over sometime over easter to help me out which is magic as someone who is shit hot can take a look first hand and will spot something so obvious. i have replaced so much with brand new that i have eliminated shit components lol

[Andy]

Have you got Aquamist fitted? If that fluid wasn't fuel, could it've been oil - or brake fluid?