Cam fitting

[Jezza-7]

Im fitting my cam next month and then getting a trailer to move it to get a remap.

Any tips for the cam fitting and tappets?

[Yoof]

Not too hard but a couple of pointers:

Do the cambelt & waterpump too- it's only £30 extra

Repace both cam oil seals (dizzy end too), the camshaft bearing stud/nuts are M7 and require carefull torquing in the correct sequence, you risk either stripping the stud out the head, or breaking them cam if not.

Haynes has the proper sequence to set the piston position, have you got a vernier pulley to fit too?

Plently of oil over the cam/tappets on installation too, if the tappets have been sitting a while, then leave them in oil for abit bucket side up.

Hope this helps,

Pete

[Jezza-7]

Cheers yoof

The water pump and belt were replaced no more than 2 months ago.

Got a vernier pulley already on.

The tappets have been sat around in the packagind since bought and havent been opened up but might just put them in oil for a while like you said.

I remember in the haynes manual it says about the sequence of how to torque the bolts.

Will get the cam oil seals replaced.

Is it worth getting new M7 bolts?

Do you put the piston to TDC? Havent got my haynes to hand.

[hayesey]

the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.

[Jezza-7]

6nm, thats not alot. Thats like hand tight, or 3 white knuckles as we say at work. Luckily i can use the torque wrenches from work as mine starts at 20nm.

Cheers for all your inputs, much apreciated.

[Jezza-7]

As for the oil seals i got

030 103 085A for the pulley end

030 905 224 (round seal) for the distributor

030 905 261 seal for distributor

Yoof, when you said about the dizzy end one, are the above ones (2 of) both best to replace? On vag cat it shows it going on the end of the dizzy and the other just in front.

[hayesey]

I've just ordered both those dizzy seals from VW as I get a slight leak from there at sustained high rpm

[Yoof]

the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.

They're very tight for the spec- remember it's got an angle tighten (90' I Think) after the torque!!

[Jezza-7]

What do you mean "angle tighten" after the torque?

[hayesey]

the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.

They're very tight for the spec- remember it's got an angle tighten (90' I Think) after the torque!!

not really sure what your point is there yoof. you still need as torque wrench to set it to 6nm whether the angle tighten after is 1deg or 1,000,000deg.

Angle tighten means turn the bolt/nut by what ever angle it says.  So 90deg means turn it quarter of a turn, it's also much more accurate if you have an angle gauge to do this.

[Yoof]

I'm well aware of that mate 

I was pointing out it is an angle torque too, so isn't just 6Nm. Should give a breakoff on a M7x1.5 off approx 25Nm post angle.

[Jezza-7]

Ok, so does that mean when torqueing up the bolts, in the correct sequence, you don't just fully torque them up, you do them one by one only going 90 degrees untill all are at the correct torque. That makes sense to me as we work similar on our aircraft. 

[hayesey]

no it means do them up to 6nm (or whatever it is, check haynes!!!!) and then go round again turning each one 90deg (again, check haynes, my memory isnt to be relied on!).

[Jezza-7]

Ah I see. Will have a look at it when I have finished work. Thanks for your help.

[PeteG40]

hayesey is referring to cam/rocker cover bolts, yoof referring to the cam cap nuts!