Club G40 Forum
Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: Jezza-7 on October 26, 2010, 09:06:28 pm
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Im fitting my cam next month and then getting a trailer to move it to get a remap.
Any tips for the cam fitting and tappets?
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Not too hard but a couple of pointers:
Do the cambelt & waterpump too- it's only £30 extra
Repace both cam oil seals (dizzy end too), the camshaft bearing stud/nuts are M7 and require carefull torquing in the correct sequence, you risk either stripping the stud out the head, or breaking them cam if not.
Haynes has the proper sequence to set the piston position, have you got a vernier pulley to fit too?
Plently of oil over the cam/tappets on installation too, if the tappets have been sitting a while, then leave them in oil for abit bucket side up.
Hope this helps,
Pete
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Cheers yoof
The water pump and belt were replaced no more than 2 months ago.
Got a vernier pulley already on.
The tappets have been sat around in the packagind since bought and havent been opened up but might just put them in oil for a while like you said.
I remember in the haynes manual it says about the sequence of how to torque the bolts.
Will get the cam oil seals replaced.
Is it worth getting new M7 bolts?
Do you put the piston to TDC? Havent got my haynes to hand.
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the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.
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6nm, thats not alot. Thats like hand tight, or 3 white knuckles as we say at work. Luckily i can use the torque wrenches from work as mine starts at 20nm.
Cheers for all your inputs, much apreciated.
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As for the oil seals i got
030 103 085A for the pulley end
030 905 224 (round seal) for the distributor
030 905 261 seal for distributor
Yoof, when you said about the dizzy end one, are the above ones (2 of) both best to replace? On vag cat it shows it going on the end of the dizzy and the other just in front.
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I've just ordered both those dizzy seals from VW as I get a slight leak from there at sustained high rpm
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the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.
They're very tight for the spec- remember it's got an angle tighten (90' I Think) after the torque!!
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What do you mean "angle tighten" after the torque?
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the torque for the cam bearing cap bolts is something daft like 6nm which isn't very tight at all! You'll need a pretty small torque wrench for that so make sure you have one.
They're very tight for the spec- remember it's got an angle tighten (90' I Think) after the torque!!
not really sure what your point is there yoof. you still need as torque wrench to set it to 6nm whether the angle tighten after is 1deg or 1,000,000deg.
Angle tighten means turn the bolt/nut by what ever angle it says. So 90deg means turn it quarter of a turn, it's also much more accurate if you have an angle gauge to do this.
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I'm well aware of that mate ;)
I was pointing out it is an angle torque too, so isn't just 6Nm. Should give a breakoff on a M7x1.5 off approx 25Nm post angle.
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Ok, so does that mean when torqueing up the bolts, in the correct sequence, you don't just fully torque them up, you do them one by one only going 90 degrees untill all are at the correct torque. That makes sense to me as we work similar on our aircraft.
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no it means do them up to 6nm (or whatever it is, check haynes!!!!) and then go round again turning each one 90deg (again, check haynes, my memory isnt to be relied on!).
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Ah I see. Will have a look at it when I have finished work. Thanks for your help.
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hayesey is referring to cam/rocker cover bolts, yoof referring to the cam cap nuts!
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no, I'm referring to cam bearing cap nuts too!!
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well they do have an angle tighten figure.
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I never said they didn't ???
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On this topic two questions, first is is the camshaft sproket bolt a stretch bolt and need renewing on reassembly ? Second is slightly off topic but are timing discs generic or specific, any good makes people know of or any old one do ?
Oh and not sure but don't new camshafts need running in at 2k rpm for a while not sure if it's a brand new cam you've get jezza thinking it is though.
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Yeah mine is barnd new.
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Was thinking about the timing on this earlier and i dont have a gun for the timing. If im taking it for a remap is it worth changing the cam using haynes manual etc and then leaving the timing for the fella to do?
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they are 6nm then 90 degree tighten!
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they are 6nm then 90 degree tighten!
Thanks pete :)
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On this subject I intend to be timing my new engine up this weekend. Now I've got a good idea how to do it just wanted to check n see if I am correct so..
First attach timing disc, then using either a dial guage or a strip of steel secured across the deck with a bolt in as a positive stop wind the piston up untill it stops on the bolt record how Many degreess on disc then wind forwards untill it does the same, middle point between these is true tdc(add together divide by 2). Then rotate to that number on the disc. Undo the disc and zero it.
I'm assuming the cam is fully fitted and torqued up at this point.Also do the hydraulic lifters have any impact on this measurement if they have been left in oil as mine has they should be full of oil ?? A friend of mine who does drag racing in a big way says you have to get an old tappet and open it up and put a bolt or shim or weld in there to stop any deflection it might have is this true ? Anyway dial guage on the head (steel strip on the head) measuring off the top of the tappet rotate the cam untill full lift at the middle of the dwell point as best as possible. Stick the belt on and tighten it up, then rotate the crank untill just before full lift on inlet one say 0.1 mm for example then record the number on the timing disc then rotate crank other way untill the same 0.1mm on dial appears and record timing disc number. Add together divide by two give you middle point wich is true full lift, adjust using the vernier pulley to get timing figure in my case 110 degrees at full lift on the inlet .
Is this all correct ? Main questions are is there a standard advance I need to add to my 110 degrees of 5 degrees or am I thinking of ignition advance ? And hydraulic lifters if soaked in oil prior do they affect maxiuim lift measurements ? Please correct me on any bits I've got wrong or any hints or tips would be ideal thanks
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no one help me out with this ??
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Just a quick one, looking at fitting the new oil seal, crank pulley side, and what way does it fit? i know to use a socket to tap it into place etc. Obviously when the cam caps are torque up.
like this
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/IMG_0052.jpg)
or this way
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/IMG_0053.jpg)
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the first pic is the right way!
as the spring lip must be inside to seal the oil pressure. the same as gcharger seals.
greetings
andré
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Thankyou very much andre! :)
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Right, i fitted my cam today. Went by the haynes manual all the way so no mistakes were made.
Bought a teng 5nm-25nm torque wrench and it was perfect for the job, especially for the angle tightening as the degrees was on the head.
Only thing i had trouble with was the correct torque for the no 5 cam cap bolts that go on after the angle tightening as i couldn't find it in the haynes. I did them to 6nm.
Fitted the seal correctly, was easy as well. Didn't need to use a socket as with oil around the lips it slid on well. Will double check though to make sure its fully in.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/IMG_0062.jpg)
Also whats the purpose of this hole here? Allow oil to dizzy internal?
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/IMG_0063.jpg)