Club G40 Forum
Club G40 => Photos and videos => Ongoing Projects => Topic started by: Yoof on December 30, 2008, 11:18:54 pm
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This should really have a home here (more relevant than Club Polo)
My car started as a 1991 Polo GT, seen here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/gti7.jpg)
Didn't start life like that, was probably after 2 years or so, used to run a 90bhp 3f engine and 80bhp of nitrous ;D
Then, once that got boring a new challenge was set (throttle bodies on a budget- was still 18/19 then!)
Hence:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00111.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/PoloShow025Medium.jpg)
Once myself & Andy had done the megasquirt it ran well, needed more tweaking but I went turbo instead:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Turbo/IMG_0195.jpg)
Car before running a low 13sec @ Santa pod:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/GTi%20Festival/IMG_0668.jpg)
Note the Subframe peeking through- proper research & development being done!!!!
Polo Show in Sept '08
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00135.jpg)
Made 203bhp & 187lbft without nitrous at 21psi boost- G40 RR Day @ Aldon Automotive
Made 223bhp & 210lbft with nitrous ;D
Car at Oulton Park late November (more subframe testing):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Oulton%20Park%2028-11-08/JH4Q7369.jpg)
Which brings me almost up to present, plans are for a refresh/revision on some suspension areas, mainly spring rates, rear ARB rates, rollcage, front dampers, proper adjustable top mounts.
Engine side of things need a new turbo and decent dump valve (going Tial as fed up of blowing Bosch ones apart) then I'm good to go!
2009 Plans are more trackdays, and to run into the 12s at Santa Pod :-[
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yes yoof seen a couple of the vid`s of you on the track day with mathers n that
you guy`s are really pulling the potetial out of the polos now
go no the 12`s
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One of the best around, a real ground breaker!
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I can't wait to see this 8)
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you running standard management?
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Yes- with a few additional components ;)
Just taken it out and I've come back shaking, last time I drove it was Novemeber 2008. Gets to 140mph quicker than my diesel gets to 70mph... ;D
Few bits to sort out before santa pod still.
I'll get some pics up later.
Yoof
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when you taking it to the pod?
do you run a lsd?
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nice one yoofington, I've not driven mine since the same track day last nov either! Shouldn't be much longer for mine either.
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Hoping to be there for GTi Festival, still got to swap my rear springs, TIG some bits onto boost pipes, get rid of this old fuel (should be fun ;D ) and sort the nitrous and general tune of the car out.
I run a gripper plate diff ;)
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all sounds cool mate one of the best polos in my eyes.
ill hope mine is ready june time think ill go retro show as i went last year and it was fantastic all different stuff, better than the same old same old at vw shows now.
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Put some fresh rubber on the compos (hard to get hold of now A539 :( )
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00451.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00450.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00449.jpg)
Lambda probe is on its way out, I've found a boost leak though, had all the inlet etc off today, had a good freshen up and re ran the whole vacuum system now in gucci pipe 8)
Some pictures from this afternoon, replaced the old tired rad with a new ally one 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00453.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00454.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00455.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00456.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00457.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00458.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00459.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00460.jpg)
Getting there, still got to finish it tomorrow, plus set the nitrous up, and take the rear suspension apart... :D
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Sweet update Pete.
Taken a day off today to make a fan bracket for the slim-line.
Tempted by the invitation class of the VAG Trophy?
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Hmm, would want to see how it works tbh. I've not got a cage and last thing I want is some 'haveago hero' in his 8v GTi running out of talent and running into me.
I am interested in it though, especially if it's free. 1/4mile and trackdays mostly this year for me, possibly a trip over to a certain toll road.
Car is now back together, boost turned down to 20psi (nitrous setting) just got to stick the bottle in, and change my rear springs. Then get pissed with Hayesey ;D
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Awesome, awesome car this! I wish mine was half that clean and shiny!
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can i ask how much you paid for your alloy rad? my standard one cant seem to keep the temp down with my eaton convertion. are the alloy rads alot better than standard ones ? i,ve heard they are
steven
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he got it second hand.
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As Lance said I got it from a friend cheaply, new from Pace they're very expensive. I'll contact them and see if they'll do a group discount if several people are interested?
Lance- can you PM me about Salzmann nuts please ;)
Will update this thread with GTi Fesitval info soon :P
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Update:
Few pics from GTi Festival, and a couple of videos now :-)
Setting up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_2324.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_2325.jpg)
Warming up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_2334.jpg)
Lining up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_2342.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_2343.jpg)
And some videos:
UK's Quickest FWD Polo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTLYBk3a2rY)
Polo vs RS4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clUseUvsBN4)
I'd love to own a black RS4 one day, but hopefully I can hold off for a little longer now :-D RS4 was 471bhp but had a few niggling issues- although still hauled hard all day.
Yoof
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Now have a new unit, which Robin and I share, so can work on my car (and a few customers) in peace.
Recent activity:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00532.jpg)
Subframe is now over 2 years old- trackdays, 1/4mile events, big slicks and lots of torque- apart from a little surface rust it still looks new 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00527.jpg)
Engine currently out- was going to re-do the brake lines before Polo Show, but not got much time, just a quick freshen up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC00526.jpg)
Winter should bring the final stage of development for this car, then I can start on the Mk1 finally. Custom cage, proper top mounts, and some mroe turbo revisions will be done.
Can 2010 see a G40 in the 11s?
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Recent updates:
Stripping the engine bay and stich welding it up, prepping ready for a cage too, won't be FIA certified but will be to a suitable standard that if required I can get it signed off and go racing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0066.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0060.jpg)
All for now :P
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Carried on with putting my seat in, last thing to do before it goes off for a cage.
Made the mounts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0100.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0101.jpg)
The rails where made from 28mm CDS with some 3mm metal bent round- the mounts are made from 3mm plate with 2mm sides.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0102.jpg)
Some tough bits, one of the hardest was welding a 3mm thick plate to a 0.5mm bit of body.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0103.jpg)
Et viola:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0104.jpg)
Took quite a while with jumping in/out the car, adjusting the height and position of the seat, eventually got it right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0107.jpg)
Seat is actually 'Magnum- recaro copy?' but become race spec with a Sparco cushion to support my melon head :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0105.jpg)
Going to book a trailer and hopefully should be going for a cage weekend after next :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0106.jpg)
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cheap ass not using etch primer :D :D :D
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:P
Haha, the whole interior is being stripped once the cage is in and painted properly, only primered to protect it from the outside for abit.
I wish my car was a cheap bit of ass :'(
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looking good yoof!
iv just finished installing the rear half of my SD cage myself! its not the easiest job welding thick plates to thin ass metal especially when iv only just learnt to weld ;D
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Yeah- one of the reasons I used 1.5mm plate on the seat rail area prior to welding the 3mm mounts in.
Cage next :)
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Looking good mate, seat runners look spot on there, bit better than my slightly bodged versions but hey they are there. Where you getting your cage done? Somewhere up your ends i guess...?
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Chap who does the subframes for us, been doing cages for years too. Will take a while but should be top quality although MIG welded together he's really neat and it should be just as strong, still deciding what bars I want where etc.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0113.jpg)
8)
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Bloody hell that looks epic! :o
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engine porn!
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Yes yes yoofy!!
That looks awesome, Henry's old emtec kit isnt it.. Garrett GT2554R by any chance? Tight on clearance on the downpipe/manifold, have you had a flexi pipe put on the end of the downpipe or exhaust?
Sure the cage will be well sweet mate. Cant wait to see this once its done! Gonna be one hell of a complete package!!
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Cheers Jez- hoping it should be good when complete :)
You're correct on the turbo- downpipe is a crap fit, and only 60mm, so I'll remake it a touch bigger too ;)
Mk3 will be trailered next Friday- which means a certain blue mk1 comes back up ;D
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Sounds like you got your work cut out there mate, im seriously struggling with one let alone two :D !!
Keep the updates coming dude
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Also have customers down most weekends... ;D
Mostly Hayesey or Robin taking up my free time at the moment :P
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Busy busy then... My car will be running in the new year so i might have to take a trip up to meet you guys one weekend. Good excuse to put a few miles under her belt on the run in too!
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lookin good yoof exact same turbo setup as im going for next. so ill be able to pester you to see what its like. you not fancy going to better management?
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Hmmm, no such thing as better management really- more features yes, but not better really.
Polo PP have about £1k worth of mapping gear, I like digifant so I'm mapping it up, can still have switchable maps and launch control etc, just got to know how to do it :) Good to know you're trying the K03 first, I'm hoping I like the GT25.... ???
Jez- aye pop up mate, should be looking abit more unit like in the coming months hopefully.
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oh well you dont need anything else then if you can do that with digifant. i have went dta as nobody for miles can map mine.
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Yeah, DTA has many good features such as second bank injection, sequential injection, wasted spark, traction control, boost in gear etc etc but it's a lot if cash and I'd not use half the features to be honest, be good to see how you get on with it though mate.
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yoof your cars great big inspiration for people i think, couple of questions thought, with what turbo setup did u make 200 bhp was it a ko3if it was how can you safley run 21psi of boost?? if it was what manifold where u using? did u run forged pistons and what size block was it ? did u use aquamist? or all of these things trade secrets?? 2 more questions for you these are the main two really, what brakes do you use ? and what suspension set up do you use coilovers?
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Hi Mate,
Thanks for the comments- I ran 203bhp with a K03 turbo at 21psi, used a 250kPa map sensor (which we sell in the traders section) and a decent custom map.
I used a rothe manifold and downpipe connected to one of our 63mm systems, the block is overbored to 1341cc and uses Accralite pistons, although I'd use Wossner ones if I was doing it again (lower compression ratio). I also use aquamist.
The engine is nothing special, it's the refinement, calibration and set-up of everything which takes the time, and makes the most out of everything.
I use 256mm brakes with EBC yellowstuff pads, RBF600 Fluid, and standard Golf 16v Brembo discs. I've used various suspension set-ups over the years, combinations of springs rates, cup car dampers and bilstien motorsport items, I'm currently settling on a G40 cup car kit though, with some additions to the track control arms, and custom top mounts, not forgetting a Polo-PP stage 3 subframe :)
Hope this helps,
Cheers
Pete
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cheers this has been very helpful i am thinking of going turbo next year i was just wondering if the emtec kit was worth the extra money but im only after around 200bhp so if this is achivable with the cheaper ko3 rothe set up i will probably use that, does the ko3 spool up quicker than the turbo offered with the emtec kit think its a garret t25/28 hybrid (dunno if im right my german isnt that great !) cause i really like having the instant boost of a g charger but dont want to have to keep servicing it , and wanna run higher boost than a bar when i strip the engine out n rebuild it next year.
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If your aim is 200bhp then I'd stick with a K03.
Mine has gone a little further than that, partly to promote the business, and partly for my own amusement. The K03 is great for the road, depending on camshaft choice you can have full boost by 2750rpm (over 20psi) which means peak torque is just over 3000rpm at 180lbft+
Although it sounds strange I'd reccomend the Rothe kit over the Emtec, there's a fair amount of chopping and fabrication I've got to do until I'm happy with it to be honest.
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Whilst my Mk3 is away, mine and Andy's Mk1 has returned home:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0143.jpg)
Lots to do!
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Excellent thread mate ;) I noticed in another section of the forum that your in chelford in cheshire? I live in Macclesfield just down the road. Would love to see your polos in the flesh sometime and maybe also ask your opinion on a few ideas of my own.
Keep up all your good work mate. It's well worth it .
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Cheers, will hopefully be at some shows and Oulton Park a fair amount in 2010 :)
Recent progress:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0219.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0229.jpg)
;)
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Proper camber adjustable top mounts going on there Pete - very nice 8) You gonna be utilising RWD Escort ones or fabricating something totally new?
Nice close fitting cage too - is the bloke fabricating it the one who does your subframes? Are you going to have the cage gusseted to the pillars and take braces out from the cage front legs through the bulkhead and to the turret tops?
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Richard- they're similar, but obviously suited to the Polo so most of the parts are custom fabrication, the bearings themselves are the same I believe as older Escort stuff used on the rally cars etc.
Cage will be gusseted although should have ample pickup points for shell rigidity without them, I've only ask for small tags on the B pillars (if any) and small A pillar gussets. Will obviously be triangulated through to the front turrets but I want to keep stock bonnet hinges, the battery has had to move though...
The chap doing it also does our subframes, this car will eventually have adjustable TCA, adjustable top mounts, stage 3 frame and custom rear top mounts too... so I can get lost in a field of adjustability. But more importantly everything is now bolted properly together, so on track nothing moves ;D
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0129.jpg)
A finished top mount on our Subframe Jig Car (has to be the best equipt 1.0litre in history!)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0225.jpg)
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Some great work and fabrication! 8) Though are you keeping the washer size the same on those 4 bolts on the top mounts, just seem a little small with only the edges forming any contact patch, perhaps a clamping plate is needed? ???
You ever seen "Infinity's" (gurds) Mk1 Golf build thread on ClubGTi, some inspiring frame work and bracing ideas, perhaps overkill but ideas all the same for future Polo Development perhaps?
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Looking good Yoof, very good!!
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Cheers gents :)
Paul- the washers are purely to hold it together whilst welding is being done. Got some fancy fastenings to put on once it's been painted though :) Not sure I can be arsed to lockwire them all together though- bit too 'belt and braces' for me :D
Gurds is a good chap, used to chat to him at No-Rice a few years back, although not been down that neck of the woods for a while now.
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lookin good there, id like some good top mounts like that but its a bit extreme for my car.
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£120 worth of sutds & nuts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0239.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0237.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0236.jpg)
Just need to decide on some rubber for them now :)
Car is due back in 2 weeks- I'm counting the days ;D
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Ah studs.. they should be a legal requirement :D I cant stand the poxy wheel bolt design!
Where you source them from, i was looking a good while back at these and they arnt cheap to say the least.. There seem to be mixed and very strong opinions about the best companies and equipment to use when it comes to stud conversion kits!
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Bildon Motorsport in the USA.
Jez the main things to look out for are rolled threads, a turned end (easier to start the nut) and a shoulder to tighten up against.
Not cheap (£120 for a set of 18) but worthwhile! Wheel changing takes seconds, not hours now :)
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yeah, have the same studs on mine. almost essential with spacers and no location screws in brake discs!
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yeah ive heard bildon are very good.. will have to invest at some point. Did you get them from bildon directly or is there a UK supplier?
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Bildon directly mate, make sure your card can cope with American transactions...
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:) im not sure my card can cope with anymore transactions, especially 'polo related' ones! cheers mate
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Getting there:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_3622_Large.jpg)
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sweet - bet you cant wait. Cage looks a nice tight fit too.. 8)
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that looks like a nice tight fit.
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Worth waiting for :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01020.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01018.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01011.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01001.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01000.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC00994.jpg)
There's a few things I need to tweak,but the fit is superb and quality of welding second to none. Big thanks to my mate Dave- he's so pimp even his trailer's got streched rubber ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC00979.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC00977.jpg)
Coming soon... 8)
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welds look really nice, all looks spot on.
ya mate needs some wheels arches on his trailer though!
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looks awesome yoof!! see you went for the triangulation to the front struts in the end (you know it makes sense :D)
Will be something else when shes running!!
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Looks like spot on job! nice.
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awesome! will have to pop down the unit for a shufty
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looks quality mate, as you said looks like it was worth waiting for
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hows she coming along mate, any progress?
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Not at the moment, for the last few months I've been putting a second floor up at the unit, about 60m of RSJ, and a hell of alot of grinding, welding, drilling and painting.
Lots of the G40 lads have seen it 'in progress' although everything takes so long I'm itching to get started on the car. My aim is to have it done apart from mapping by BVF, which I'm hoping it will be there on a trailer :)
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Sounds like it will get there soon though at least. I know the feeling though, what with uni and everything. Not helped by the fact that i want to do/change things on it already and its not even been driven 200meters yet ::). keep it up mate!
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Crackle painted with crankcase breathing mods done- not going for a scavenging system just yet:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0326.jpg)
Unfortunately last friday 'rain stopped play':
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_0335.jpg)
11 stiches in my left thumb after an accident with a circular saw- not going to get the Polo done any time soon :(
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Ouch! A graphic illustration of the dangers of power tools :D
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Holy feckmonkeys Batman! That's got to tickle. Hope it's a fast recovery.
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Holy crap!! hope you have not nicked any tendons and nerves, the hand is very complicated.
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Matt- I was lucky and not gone through the nerve, tendon, bone, or nail bed... somehow!
Right PITA as I wanted the car done soon!
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Nightmare mate, hope you heal up quick!
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That picture sent a shiver down my spine! :o
But your rocker cover looks awesome, I was thinking about doing that to mine but think I may have missed the boat now :(
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Yoofy that thumb of yours looks a treat! That will hurt for months/maybe years after it heels. I cut right into the side of my finger (at the tip right into my nail) on a jig saw when holding a worktop not so long ago and although it heeled really well, where it cut is really sensitive when you touch it!
On a brighter note that cover looks wicked! :)
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Thumb has healed nicely now :)
Got Vik's 1341cc to build before I start on mine, but it can wait for abit as I've decided not to get it back on the road for 2010, but aim to be up and running by Jan 2011 for a year of trackdays.
New seats:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01080.jpg)
New tyres (6):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Second%20Level%20Unit/IMG_0352.jpg)
Should be some updates soon regarding the car :)
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"Should be some updates soon regarding the car "
That was, quite clearly, bollocks.
I'll get my finger out in a few weeks.
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Some updates, mostly a little boring though:
Seat mounts both in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01432.jpg)
Interior vactanned:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01439.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01440.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01442.jpg)
And then seam sealed:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01444.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01445.jpg)
Engine bay gets the same treatment:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01447.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01449.jpg)
And abit of carbon for the lads:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01435.jpg)
All for now 8)
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all that heavy seam sealer!! ;) I just painted mine.
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nice update Yoof!
You made any progress on the blue mk1 btw?
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Looks great that Yoofy . nice to see an update !
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You made any progress on the blue mk1 btw?
Other than sourcing some parts, we've not done owt on it! Plan is to get an engine in it next year, funds permitting.
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all that heavy seam sealer!! ;) I just painted mine.
That's when the extra 30bhp comes in ;) :P
I wanted the chassis to last for a good few years now, fuel tank is coming out and rear axle off for a good inspect/ repair any nasties lurking underneath.
The Mk3 is starting to suffer in the same areas as the Mk1 had (rear valance, rear of sills etc) so I wanted to sort it before it got bad.
Interior is now in primer, I'll still be fitting carpets and headlining, so don't need to paint everywhere.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01455.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01456.jpg)
The main focus of this rebuild was suspension and chassis (along with a little more power) so cup car suspension kit is on, along with Polo PP adjustable track control arms, our own top mounts, and of course a subframe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01459.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01465.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01466.jpg)
I'm going to strip the subframe of paint and have it crack tested- continued testing at Polo-PP!
Some general pics from yesterday:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01467.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01468.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01469.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01472.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01474.jpg)
Paul- Blue Mk1 hasn't been touched recently, as Andy says we've got a powertrain sorted, so next thing is to save up some pennies and get it done.
Yoof
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all that heavy seam sealer!! ;) I just painted mine.
I'll still be fitting carpets and headlining, so don't need to paint everywhere.
carpets AND headlining? but all that extra mass??
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all that heavy seam sealer!! ;) I just painted mine.
I'll still be fitting carpets and headlining, so don't need to paint everywhere.
carpets AND headlining? but all that extra mass??
With the size/mass of my head, carpets and headlining are the least of my worries! :D
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very well fitted cage. Snug as a bug.
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lookin good, pleased to see you are keeping carpets and that i think a car just feels shit to be in without them!
vactan is really good stuff!
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Hmmm vactan maybe I shhould of used that when I did my seams, I tried krust from hammerite and to be honest thought it was crap!
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Few more progress pics:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01478.jpg)
Subframe stripped ready for crack testing:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01479.jpg)
Rear arches (making space):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01499.jpg)
Penetration from interior stich welding, requires all seam sealer to be cleaned and redone:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01500.jpg)
Fuel tank out to deal with more of the same:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01503.jpg)
Making space for bits:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01507.jpg)
Should be sealing and painting stuff this next week :)
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Looking all very serious, good stuff
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Few more progress pics:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01478.jpg)
Crikey what did you use to clean that up?
mine got about 2inches of gunk on it! :)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/max_crox/Polo%20Coupe/IMAG0125.jpg)
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Mark - Use fire/heatgun and is can be scraped off. Then wait (ages) for it to cool then rinse with p[etrol. Maybe a wire brush for good measures
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Mark- I used a good quality knot brush in a grinder, took a while but worth it. A clean with thinners afterwards, then POR-15 metal ready, then POR-15:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01526.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01527.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01528.jpg)
Alot of effort, but I doubt I'll have time in 5 years to be redoing it!
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Wow that looks nice..
I'm stuck with mine in how much should I actually do. The factury gunk is still in good condition so it seems a bit weird to strip it off to replace it with somthing else. But it will make it look nice and new.. hummm..
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Says I do not have sufficent privlages to view page and I'm a paid member, what do I have to have a funny handshake to have a look !
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It's been removed ::)
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God knows why it was pulled, it was a perfectly genuine topic.
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Apparently it went against their advertising terms & conditions, as I'm affiliated with Polo PP, I can't say that my car has a remap done by Polo-PP... suffice to say, without Polo-PP products my spec list looked rather bare!
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Bah. Rediculous.
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Yup- although there's better things in life to worry about. Such as undersealing the floorpan!
Primer over the vactan:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01542.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01543.jpg)
etc etc
Then seam sealer:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01550.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01553.jpg)
Tomorrow it's stone chip time!
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Just got to weld in my battery tray mounts, then I can finish off the floorpan:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01561.jpg)
The rear is almost done now, just waiting for the flat floor and diffuser to arrive before I can finish the underseal, current progress:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01556.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01557.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01558.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01559.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01560.jpg)
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that tank is dented on the top?
i ve seen that before but worse seen one tank that bascally collapsed itself
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Yup- but not enough to warrant a new one!
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Yup- but not enough to warrant a new one!
Diffuser to arrive? I like the sound of that!
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Making me think of the bonkers defuser on that copper mk1 polo g40 turbo. Well looking forward to this
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It's along the same lines, but should intergrate into the bumper alot more cleanly.
Am currently working on a few steering mods which should make it alot better!
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Can't wait too see this car done it's going to be an animal !!
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Not far off bolting stuff back on now, floorpan:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01565.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01566.jpg)
Rebuilt rear axle:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01564.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01563.jpg)
Built up with wheel studs:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01569.jpg)
All suspension/steering components have been stripped down and POR-15'd:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01567.jpg)
Now Andy & myself have fully adjustable suspension, it seemed stupid to continue to pay through the nose for tracking places, so I've bought these:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01568.jpg)
4-Wheel alignment, will do Toe, Camber, Castor, KPI and Wheel Runout, should be worth its weight in gold whilst setting mine up, I'm keen to get the rear axle spot on too.
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lookin good mate. anychance you'll share all your set up measurements once you're finished? ;)
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Aye for sure, although not sure everyone will be able to achieve them, I've got adjustable bottom arms, stage 3 frame, and adjustable top mounts, so a fair amount of wood to get lost amongst the trees in ;D
Also I'll be running cut slicks with camber to suit the track too- not sure you'd want this on the road!
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i want to clean/paint underneath my car to avoid rust. what kind of paint and brand of paint did you use?
thanks
andré
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Andre- all rust was cleaned first, then I used Vactan, then primer, then POR-15 or underseal. The front wings are Por-15 metal ready, then Por-15 black.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01592.jpg)
Flat floor welded in :)
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Spent this afternoon mocking up the diffuser- fuel tank and rear axle installed (but will need to remove them again for the final bit of welding).
Diffuser needs to be higher at the rear, which is tomorrow's job hopefully- then I can cut my proper bumper and make a neat job of everything.
Will need a new exhaust as the old backbox doesn't fit.
Excuse the iPhone pics:
Point of view from air underneath the car:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0472.jpg)
Side profile (rear needs to be raised):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0474.jpg)
DTM Polo:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0475.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0476.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0477.jpg)
Doesn't stick out that much:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0480.jpg)
Currently there's about 1" between the diffuser and rear axle- Ideally this gap is as small as possible:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/IMG_0481.jpg)
Will be making a Mk2 diffuser from ally at some point anyway, so not going to worry too much right now.
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Where did you get the diffuser`?
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Polo PP :) - Chap who makes the subframes knocked it up for me. Was made on a squareback so I've done some mods today to get it sitting higher.
This is Mk1 made from steel (about 4kg) but I'd like one from ally next.
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Finished tewaking the diffuser, now sits alot higher and fits nicely into the bumper (still got mock up bumper on in these pics):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01632.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01634.jpg)
Rear is vactanned and stone chipped now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01639.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01638.jpg)
And the boot floor is primered ready for paint:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01637.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01636.jpg)
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Painted the engine bay and interior now :)
Used some rattle cans I had mixed up- 2pac stuff, was about £9 a can and I used 6 cans on the cage and engine bay.
Still needs buffing, but it's nice for everything to be red now instead of primer.
Carpet/seats/harnesses/headlining/windows in next.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01876.jpg)
Top Mounts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01878.jpg)
Interior:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01879.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01880.jpg)
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Looks good mate I like the balck and red with the grille, I did mine a while ago used rattle cans came out well mine was 1k paint though. Did loadsa prep especialy after the stich welind wire wheeled it rust treatment then seam sealed it but I've got flash rust coming up from under the paint now the paint is still intact and if you wipe it it looks fine bit of a pain in the ass as the prep to ages!!
Good job doing the bulkhead aswell (mine was oo realy and too lazy to remove everything so didn't bother with mine) realy coming on now, when do you hope to have it up and running ??
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Some recent pics, doorcards now in- took ages to get these to fit right, they'll never be perfect as the door isn't 100% flat:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01889.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01891.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01894.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01896.jpg)
Battery box bolted in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01890-1.jpg)
Carpet cut around cage:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01888.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01887.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01886.jpg)
Headlining in- this was an utter pain in the arse with a cage in the way, the headlining took me a full day (6/7hrs or so) to do, the cage is so tight I can't physically get it past in one area!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01897.jpg)
It's a little creased from storage, but hoping that will go once the windows are in.
Rested the seats in to get an idea of room:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01881.jpg)
Still got to make a mount for the passenger side, and tried the harness in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01885.jpg)
All for now :)
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Pah! Pretty average really. 4/10 for effort. Must try harder. :D
Funking stunningly awesome!!!!!
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Cheers Chris :P :)
Took all day but the dash is finally in now, had to chop both ends off it, and rebuild it around the cage, quite happy with it though.
Dorrcards are fitted with some new doorcovers too.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01898.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01899.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01900.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01901.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01902.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01903.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01904.jpg)
New home for the wideband display:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01908.jpg)
All for now ;)
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Lookin good dude!
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Seats both bolted in now- took all day to get them right:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01925.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01926.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01929.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01930.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01931.jpg)
And finished off the speaker grills:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01933.jpg)
Track control arms now built up and greased:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01934.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01935.jpg)
:)
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those door cards do look pimp
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Back end is now complete bar fuel lines, new axle mounts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01940.jpg)
Put the axle on 3 times to get it square to the chassis, bit of a pain but worth it:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01941.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01942.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01944.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01949.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01947.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01952.jpg)
And then put the diffuser on:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01954.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01953.jpg)
And then the wheels:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01945.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01946.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01955.jpg)
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good to see this coming along yoof. word of warning though, without tyres the ride tends to be a bit too firm for most ;D !
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Love those wheels especially, did you have them made up?
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Jez- I need tyres, the ride will be harsh enough ;D will get them stuck on this week probably.
Max- Wheelsare brand new, but I got them from eBay (for a bargin price) perfect fit at 6x14 ET38 :)
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Looking epic now with the diffuser fitting :)
Nice choice of rims, I ordered some Comp 2's the other week to replace my OZ's 8)
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Looking epic now with the diffuser fitting :).....
Truth, looks like original part ot the car! ;)
I have wheels with same ET's and J's.
It's a perfect size for wheels, great choice!
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hi
I really like this project, this preparation is to be very good this all very well want to see the final car.
cheers
pauloscooby
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Really ploughing along with this mate, looks absolutely stunning.
wheels look really good, look like they would be equally at home on a tidy oem nova sri
doorcards are a pain to get to sit flat but they look tidy! you gotta get some cable ties in there somewhere for old times sake =D
braaaap tsssh really looking forward to seeing this and kizs this year at the shows, and hopefully on a track
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Yeah wheels fit a treat, best bit is they clear the wilwoods too ;D
Will be building the front suspension up this week, and hopefully getting the interior finished off at the weekend, and building the gearbox back up if Hayesey gets his lazy arse over here :-*
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sweeeeet, just tell paul theres some fray bentos waiting and watch him come over jumanji styles :D
ps sorry hayes =P
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Slow progress today as I was pretty hungover:
Hayesey popped in and we stuck the diff back in after the preload has been reset:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01962.jpg)
New clutch release bearing on there too.
The I stuck the suspension back on, with the subframe and new bottom arms, this made me smile :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01963.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01965.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01966.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01968.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01972.jpg)
Will be picking up the new compression struts next week, which are adjustable on the car. Once that's done I can drop it back on it's wheels.
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Looking quality as usual yoof
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Front suspension now complete- just need steering arms, everything else is new :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01976.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01977.jpg)
New steering rack in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01983.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01984.jpg)
Intercooler, Radiator, and Oil Cooler are all aluminium, and now in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01981.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01980.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01979.jpg)
Engine bay is getting there now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01985.jpg)
Will stick the wings on, get some tyres put on my wheels, and stick it on the ground this week :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC01975.jpg)
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You aint got much done today what you bin doing ;)
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Yes yes yes! 8)
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Adjustable TCAs *drool*
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looking great yoof some nice work!
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Car porn as usual yoof, looks sooooo clean in there. ditto about the adjustable tca's
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I've a question - what are the plans about the brake system - 22mm brake pump (as the Golf GTI)? 256mm front disks? Brake fluid?
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Brakes are 22mm master cylinder, 256mm discs with a Wilwood 4-pot caliper, RBF600 fluid :)
Back to the ground, and straight onto my tracking gauges :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02021.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02023.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02024.jpg)
New VAG steering arms/rose joints (cheers Gary):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02018.jpg)
New G60 Aluminium master cylinder:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02019.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02025.jpg)
Change of rear lights to LHD & RHD combo:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02026.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02029.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02030.jpg)
Engine will be in the next few weeks...
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Laid some carpet down in the back now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02034.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02035.jpg)
Then got a new headgasket, bolts, and gaskets and built the engine back up with Hayesey today:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02037.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02036.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02038.jpg)
Not far off from going in now :)
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Nice! Oil drain into the top of the head?
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Nah- wouldn't drain if it was higher than the turbo ;) It's crankcase breather, goes to the catch tank :)
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hehe, I had a second look at the pictures an hour later and thought it would be that - pretty damn sweet breather hose!!
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Some quality work and cool bits on this Pete, really very nice.
I see you haven't lowered the steering arm pickups on the struts, I assume you'll only be running slightly lower than standard to allow for travel?
That cage is stunning, superbly installed and an excellent design. Do you have any idea of what it weighs? What is your target weight for the build, do you reckon you'll be able to keep it down near or slightly below standard?
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Epicness in waiting...
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Richard- remember the struts aren't stock ;) I've not measured the steering arm height compared to stock- but have some fag packet maths with my wheel/tyre combo and spring choice the steering arms aren't far off level. The cup car kit doesn't really do travel... ;D Shimmed with a choice of either slip in nylon spacers, or dismantle and fit metal rings, or remove them.
I guess the cage & all associated metal is 40kg and probably a few kg of welding wire into the chassis stiching.
Target weight is 800kg. Stock G40 is 830kg my rough reakoning:
Added Weight (63kg ish):
Nitrous bottle 5kg (worth it)
Subframe 7kg (again worth it)
Big I/C (3kg over stock)
Oil cooler (1kg)
Extra rad support bar, additional bracing (2kg)
Diffuser (5kg)
Cage (40kg)
Removed Weight (72kg):
Spare Wheel (10kg)
Jack & Brace (3kg)
Rear Wheel Well (3kg)
Rear Seats (10kg)
Seat Belts (7kg)
Sound Proofing (15kg)
Stock front seats vs light buckets (20kg)
Doorcards (2kg)
Stereo (2kg)
Car still has all steel panels, and full glass- I can crop a further 20kg with a bonnet change and plastic rear windows, which I might do in the winter. Having said that 800kg and 230bhp should be ample!
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Progress, turbo mocked up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02054.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02053.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02052.jpg)
I removed the manifold and had a fitting welded on for EGT, and then heat wrapped it, I'd originally planned to ceramic coat it, but at nearly £300 for a manifold and downpipe I decided against it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02063.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02061.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02060.jpg)
Then popped it in:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02057.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02058.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02055.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02070.jpg)
Got a few more bits to do on the interior, but I made a switch panel for the wideband, nitrous, and bottle heater, and a kill switch- so that looks abit neater now, and put the rollcage padding on:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02072.jpg)
Crackle close-up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02065.jpg)
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I love it! The level of detail in this build is what I most enjoy - like the EGT sensor expert positioning and the manifold heat wrap, the black (I hope it stays black!) looks fantastic and the little twists of wire holding it all together really set it off. Superb!
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Lovley work, stil trying to get a emtec manifold but not jelous at all :P
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looks great, you should get a turbo blanket too for more insulation.
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Why have you got the camwheel exposed? Is this to allow for quick changes to timing? I thought you'd have a vernier on there too, or is that not neccesary?
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Originally it was cut for a vernier pulley, mine now resides on Hayeseys car :) luckily I was able to time it up spot on with a standard pulley and a re-timed crank pulley.
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Looking good as usual mate, that front cross member/ bumper iron looks likes its had plenty of work to squeeze in everything :)
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Looks well fella.
What turbo is it that your using, and what sort of power are you hoping to achieve from the build.
Gav
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What turbo is it that your using
Garrett GT2554R
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Boost about 18psi to start with, then turn the wick up to 21/22psi. I'm tempted to do this with a bleed valve so I can adjust it in car though...
Pipe insulation is alot thinner, this stuff is apparently fire resistant too.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02081.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02087.jpg)
-2.5' Camber both sides- not road friendly!
Engine plumbing is almost done now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02084.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02085.jpg)
Compressor out boost pipe lagged as it's next to the turbo/manifold:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02095.jpg)
Almost there:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02088.jpg)
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love all of this...
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The daddy of all dump valves:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02107.jpg)
No more blowing Bosch ones apart ;D
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That is one sexy bay!!!! Its going to be a monster!! 8)
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Fantastic job, bay looks great. 8)
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Great work there!!!
The bumper mods in front, do you have any better pics on that?
I to need to get the temp down and this seems to be the right way.
Thomas
Sweden
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The work is going exactly how I imagine a perfect G40 turbo. And the choice for a BOV gives you my admirations. I know it's not cheap, but I think that the money are spend in the right way.
Greetings, keep good work 8)
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Cheers for the kind words :)
Been outside for the first time in ages today- going for a custom downpipe and backbox tomorrow at JP Exhaust (who do all our Polo-PP systems).
Not much left to do now, following the exhaust I've got to wire in my Zeitronix wideband, fit driveshafts, and run all the brake lines.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02114.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02111.jpg)
Diffuser still has plenty of clearance on and off trailer (unlike front bumper..)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02132.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02134.jpg)
Interior now done:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02130.jpg)
Nuff camber:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02129.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02127.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02125.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02122.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02121.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02118.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02116.jpg)
Tucked up overnight:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02138.jpg)
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Looking good for BVF then?
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Got the exhaust done today, 3" downpipe leading to a 2.5" mid section and backbox. Really happy with the quality (as usual for JP) and hopefully it should be under 98dB.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02140.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02141.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02142.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02143.jpg)
Cheeky little pipe:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02144.jpg)
All TIG welded of course :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02147.jpg)
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That looks :o sexy!
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Are those solid pipes coolant pipes ?? If so have you just grazed banjo fittings on the end, and what sort of bore size are they ?? They look realy smart I think realy smarten up the bay
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Ant- they're TIG welded onto the banjos, diameter is approx 10mm, probably 8mm ID.
Boost pipe back on now, and a few more bits tidied up:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02154.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02155.jpg)
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Looking jaw droppingly saliva drippingly gorgeous yoofy!
Can't wait to see it in the metal!
Epic
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hi
excellent project polo G40 or T40 :).
tell me something this pot of Exhaust where you shop? or have you done?
cheers
paulo
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Hey. After a quick update a see your always stepping up the game down there!
I was wondering if you could give a little advise on the geometry set up,
Have your subframe set up and was wondering what people run or you suggest running on caster and toe settings. I have no camber adjustment.
Also when you done crank timing you find it was out and how much?
Thank you ..
Terry
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Terry- good to see you're in the Polo game again, castor is down to personal preferance, on my car I run as much as possible within tyre/front arch confines. Toe on Polos is usually 0 (i.e parallel) but on some track applications toe out can be normal.
Best thing to do is measure the wheelbase side to side, adjust so wheelbase is even (therefore castor angle- presuming the rear axle is straight) and have a play with it, enjoy the adjustment!
Crank timing, was out a fair way, probably 5' on the crank pulley (2.5' cam) but the dowels on stock pullies aren't good, you've probably got that much play in one when you refit it anyway! I've also got a 3f pulley and timing marker, the markers have some play in them too when bolting up.
Cheers
Pete
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Lol thanks Petey old boy!
I'm hopefully going to pull my finger out and spend some moneys!
I also will be coming down for a set up .. Custom Map,
But vernier , big throttle ...possibly BVH ..
All inspiration from yourself!
I hope to come meet some other g40 owners at some point too.!
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This is beyond incredible! :o
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Terry- Club Polo are organising a trackday at Blyton the start of August, will be quite a few G40s out on track ;D
Cheers Alex, just the paint letting it down, but I'm thinking I'll let it get some gravel rash first, then think about some paint.
Final pieces of the jigsaw have now arrived:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Mk3%20Re-Build/DSC02160.jpg)
Hoping to have it running at BVF, but might not have CV joints in time :D
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Havn't updated this in a while... :D
Car made 216bhp at the Polo Show, but I don't trust their dyno, Andy's car made 175bhp (hiw was 200bhp+ at Aldon).
Quite a while since an update, but currently working out how to fit my new wheels in the arches:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02296.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02297.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02298.jpg)
13" Compo CXR-2, which fit over the brakes with no spacers :P
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02300.jpg)
Also got another set, couple of sets of slicks (cut, drag and a few circuit) and some wets:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02301.jpg)
Oulton Park in 4 weeks :D
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Hopefully I've fixed the wheel clearance issure, whilst keeping it looking stock :)
Standard arch:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02302.jpg)
Fettled arch:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02303.jpg)
That's a few hours with a hot air gun and a length of steel to roll the plastic arch out, also did this to the bumper mount:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02319.jpg)
So that meets the 'stock' arch nicely again, still abit more to do.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02306.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02318.jpg)
All for now
Yoof
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Looks good Yoof. Do you have a pic of the whole car with the new wheels and arches? And where did you get the wilwoods, are they a direct fit?
I've tried to contact PPP, i was in a dialog with Peter about a subframe for my G40, but i havnt heard back since 14th september :E Could you check this out for me?
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That's me :) I've either been at work or down the unit recentley, I'll catch up with PPP mails this afternoon- subframes due next w/e btw.
I'll try to get a pic of the whole thing once it's done.
Wilwoods aren't a direct fit, the carriers require modification which isn't a massive issue providing you've got a steady hand and a hacksaw/file. Only pain is you ruin the finish on the carrier, so ideally need to get them replated. I got them from Rally Design (Mk1 Golf kit) with pads, and use Golf 256mm 16v Brembo discs (GSF/ECP etc).
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Are your front trims off a coupe s or modified g40/gt ones? I'm having trouble keeping em stuck down with tiger seal. Left em on clamped for 48 hours and they have still slightly peeled . Mine are the coupe s ones
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Tigerseal seemed to do the job for me :) Just make sure everything is really clean, and you rough the back of the arch up.
How the Polo is currently sitting, awaiting new panels:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/8a838c74.jpg)
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Recent progress:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/50cb2f54.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/a87e2c61.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/7fae90e3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/b5e0c385.jpg)
Other side to do tomorrow
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/53e75999.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/52ccbb4a.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/fac709e2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/853d566c.jpg)
Front end is done now, just need to wait for the boot to arrive, and order rear windows.
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I assume your colour coding them arch extensions? Also did you choose not to go back to the orginal wings and trims because of the amount of effort it took to fit them wheels under?
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Might just go gloss black on the extensions, I'd want to colour code the bumpers if I did the arches.
The wheels would have been okay on the road, but scrubbed hard on track. So the berg arches give me alot more flexability regarding ride height, wheel/tyre combo :)
Wings are now GRP as they're lighter, and I'd damaged the drivers side one in a 'racing incident' with Andy in his Saab 9000 a few years back!
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Does that NACA duct on the wing go anywhere Yoof?
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Nah I put it there to keep the inner wing cool ;)
Brake cooling- NSF got hot enough to melt the centre cap, OSF didn't, main diff between them was the NS has an airfilter in the way, so NACA ducts going in both sides.
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dude watched a couple of your blyton park vids on youtube last night, you were giving it some! bet everyone was asking you in the pits what the hell you had in it!
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Inspiration!! The level of finish is amazing. Lot of hours gone into this. :)
Where did you get the battery tray cover from or did you make it yourself?
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Not done anything on this for a while, but now I've moved house I've managed to finish off the ings, all bar indicator holes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1310.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1312.jpg)
GRP Boot is here, so am going to pick the car up this Friday and trailer it down, I can work on it evenings and weekends then, should progress things a little quicker!
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hi where did u get the arches from ?
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Yoof, what wheels have you got that clear the wilwoods? Do you reckon the speedlines i got from andy will clear them?
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Not sure without trying them mate, they clear 256mm (non 4-pot).
I live round the corner from Andy now, so if you want to try them on my car before you buy a set of wilwoods feel free :)
Miniman- Arches are from WL Motorsport in Germany, they're reasonable, but the fronts are about 3/4" different side to side in their dimensions, which is abit crap!
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Ok mate, thats an idea. You going BVF or any santa pods soon this year? Could always try then.
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Where did you get the battery tray cover from or did you make it yourself?
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Ah man, I've just re-read this thread from the start and can't help but love it. Some seriously sweet modifications to the car here Yoof - every item has been thought out and a suitable amount of time invested where its required, making it the car all that it is now.
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Alright yoof
What offset are those compo cxr2's to make those midilites fit?? Assuming they are midilite 4 pots?
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Jezza- will be at BVF, although car won't be on these wheels as they've got slicks on! I can bring one with me to GTi Festival, or pop into mine on the way back?
Dan- Got it from Alloy Racing Fabrications (if they're still going) do lots of Escort parts
Chris- Thanks mate, it's starting to look like a car again now!
Jake- Compos are ET0 and still require a 2mm spacer to clear the Caliper if you need balance weights. You won't get these to clear standard arches though (I tried) but they are light :) and yes Midilite 4-Pot
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Wings are now mounted properly, quite happy with the fit, bonnet needs trimming and finishing, then onto the back and boot. Aiming to get it to the paint shot in a few weeks, so I can rebuild the box and start using it again for summer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02386.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02406.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02407.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02408.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02411.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02410.jpg)
And 150mph:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Polo_150mph.png)
;D
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Thanks for the info yoof, I am looking at doing a few more mods to the G40 and midilites is one of them and wasn't sure if I will have enough offset with my standard 14x6 ra's to the clear the calipers?
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Can't remember if I tried a 14 x 6... Stock G40 BBS is about 50mm off!
Like I said to Jezza, if you're ever in the Warwickshire area or at a show, I don't mind whipping a wheel off to try your wheel over the brakes.
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Are you going to Bristol volks fest ? Have you changed your master cylinder after fitting the midilites?
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Master cylinder is a 22mm aluminium one from a G60, stock new rear cylinders, gives a good pedal feel and you can modulate them well.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/924fa05b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/42d25481.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/6c51e029.jpg)
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You just know something is going there when the bootlid is held up with one strut...
poloycarb rear window yes?
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Are you going to Bristol volks fest ? Have you changed your master cylinder after fitting the midilites?
Jezza- will be at BVF, although car won't be on these wheels as they've got slicks on! I can bring one with me to GTi Festival, or pop into mine on the way back?
I reckon so.
Ok mate thats great. I might just buy them anyway and see what wheels fit. You going to the one on 22nd april? If so i will see you there. Gonna run mine up there this year.
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Yeah should be.
Aerocatches fitted on the boot now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/857b2006.jpg)
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One rear arch complete this evening.
Used rubber rivnuts which have a good clamp force against the thin panel and should stop vibrations of the arch transferring to the body. All bolts are M4 (various length) domed cap heads.
Most of this bent arch will be cut off, and both skins re-welded together:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1361.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1363.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1368.jpg)
Need to fettle the side skirt to fit now, and do the rear passenger side, then it's off to paint!
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Why not use the disks at the rear?
Congratulations your G is wonderful
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Because drums are lighter and I need as little rear braking as possible :)
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good enough reasons for me :)
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Final arch now fitted:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1409.jpg)
Much easier when it's not bent... :D
New wheels also on their way, should fill the arches nicely. Paint shop next week (gives me chance to rebuild the box, and get everything ready for stuffing up)
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Yeah boi! Good as new ;D
Like the use of rivnuts, seems a much nicer way of doing it!
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Aye rubber rivnuts are the tits, added bonus that nothing rattles with them, my carbon fibre doorcards are held in with them too.
Car is now ready for the bodyshop- will be going to Eastcote Customs, who did Alex's GT/G40 and Andy's Squareback. They're local to my work, and I'm impressed with both Alex's and Andy's cars so far. Having said that, the repair isn't going to win any concours competitions, but I'd like it to look decent.
Windows have all been removed (bar windscreen) for measurements to be made so a set of polycarbonate ones can be made. I've ditched the winder mech on both windows, and am using the runner so you can slide the window up by hand on both sides, then lock it at the top with a pin. This is because I can't open my windows due to the door bars, and I didn't want to fit electric ones.
Rear window was a pita but all out now:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1436.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1434.jpg)
I intend to take the car to a few shows this year, so needed to find some road wheels. Had several in mind (including a set of HTNs) but decided on these:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1413.jpg)
Couldn't complain at the price, 7x15 ET35 so are having 20mm spacers all round (rear will be ET5 and front ET15) should fill the arches nicely.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1432.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1427.jpg)
Hopefully the next update will be of some repairs!
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Great update Yoof !
Love the road wheels choice, keeping them silver i hope they look top notch!
I was thinking about your front window idea, i take it your keeping the front quarter window ?
having poly windows and still being able to slide up and down without winders sounds nice!!
Are you buying polycarb sheets and cutting it to size yourself ?
This would be the cheapest option for us all if we had time effort to take out windows and size up
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I miss my old/your old compos, glad you've gone back to em they are awesome! 15s are so much easier to find!
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Playing with the big boys now on 15" wheels! :D
Are you buying polycarb sheets and cutting it to size yourself ?
This would be the cheapest option for us all if we had time effort to take out windows and size up
As above are you making these yourself?
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Nah, chap on Club GTi.
Getting them hardcoated, I wanted a green stock tint too but he can't do that.
Once I've test fitted and tweaked the slider mech, I'll write a guide, and do a group buy if people are interested.
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Cool. Not sure whether these would be a good idea on a daily though, for security reasons.
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I'm going to run a locking pin inside on mine, so you can't pull the window down from outside, as safe as a stock window can be.
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Pulled the car out the garage today, gave it a quick wipe over ready for the bodyshop.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02462.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02463.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02466.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02467.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02468.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02469.jpg)
Door stripped for new windows:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02470.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02471.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02474.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02475.jpg)
Really can't wait to use this on the road again ;D
Also rebuilt my LSD this afternoon, wanted to inspect everything after 2nd gear was floating around the box for a lap of Oulton.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1442.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1444.jpg)
All back together, no damage, and minimal contamination so that's a result. Will stick it in my spare box this week hopefully, then while the car's away I can get the box/engine put together and start getting parts ready for a quick build when it's back.
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Looking good yoof. Any plans for the engine while the shells at the body shop? Im keen to see how the shell looks when the body shops finished!
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Not really- once it's roadworthy I'll probably get Andy to take a look at the map and refine things at crusing speeds as we concentrated of transients and full throttle at Bruntingthorpe. Other than that the same old setup, bigger oil cooler planned at some point will be needed.
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Prep has started on the car :)
Andy drawing a 1:1 image of my manhood:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1485.jpg)
Filler-o:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1488.jpg)
Nuff clearance:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1490.jpg)
Floor done:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1492.jpg)
Boot pins done:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1494.jpg)
PPP paint loving session:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1495.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1497.jpg)
Eastcote boys hard at work:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1499.jpg)
Arches ready for paint:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1502.jpg)
Wings ready:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1504.jpg)
Bonnet almost ready- few touches to be added prior to painting ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1506.jpg)
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Good stuff! ;D
Be good to see this pair re-built!
Upping the bar again.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1520.jpg)
;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/196043_10150844504431513_970280978_n.jpg)
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Loving the non-indicator vents on the front ;)
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Nice! 8)
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Awesome! The arches tie in really well, I wasnt sure on how it would look with em on but they look tidy!
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Aye, I'm hoping once the bumpers are blacked and everything it clean again it should look a litte better, orange indicators deffo going back on ;D
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looking healthy!
Bonnet is just plain rude! It'll be good to see her reassembled to ultra light spec! 8)
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Yeah not too much more I can shave off now, probably do doors I suppose, but they're expensive.
Got output shaft seals for my box now from TPS so things should start going back together fairly quickly.
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i Thought about investing in doors, but i dont not run a cage with door bars etc and mine is a road car..
what price were you paying for the Doors ? around £500 ?
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450 Euro/pair plus shipping and tax (19%), I get trade on that so circa £500 yeah.
One of my doors is going rusty at the bottom, so I'll wait until that goe sthrough and then think about upgrading then.
Engine is back in now ;D
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Phil Jackson is advertising them around £500, bonnet and bootlids available also.
Oh, the wiring done yeT?
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Yeah there's no pictures of anything though, I've had fibreglass parts from 3/4 different suppliers now, and have found one I'm happy with. I'd also buy direct from the supplier, much easier/cheaper if you buy a few bits.
Wiring hasn't had anything done to it, just need to plug stuff back in, might do that tonight.
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So, time for an update...
Everything back together and an MOT pass first time, no advisories:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1658.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1661.jpg)
So, erm... I went to a PistonHeads meet yesterday evening, and erm, blew the bottom end up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1670.jpg)
That's the block (or some of it) which was on the M6 Toll :D
Unfortunately it also took the rad out:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1673.jpg)
So, some amusing pictures, it's gone through both sides of the block :o (you can see the exhaust heatshield/clutch cable the other side!)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1675.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1676.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1677.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1678.jpg)
So, quick e-mail to TPS and a few phone calls later, picking another 1341cc BV head motor up this weekend, got these on the way to me too:
(http://www.futuremotorsports.com/images/P/PEC%20Rods%204cyl.jpg)
Complete with ARP bolts.
Need to strip down and inspect the engine to find root cause, hopefully the turbo and cam are still fine. So, it's engine back out time, again!
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yoof man that is some really harsh news :(
but your so positive and calm about it or this just your online persona lol
im glad your getting back on top of it so quickly! one of the legend cars
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Holy Cow! I bet that went with a right bang! Its such a pity it was on the road for a day its never looked as fierce as it does now mate. I'm glad to see that your breathing life back into her straight away, hopefully shes back for vw action!
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Rods have arrived, and engine is now out the car, did a proper job of smashing the starter motor too. Engine turns over freely so I'm still hopefull for the head!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1702.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1701.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02561.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02555.jpg)
Rest of the rebuild bits are on their way from Germany.
Terry- I'm fairly calm about the whole thing, my job is an engine development engineer- so I'm well used to things breaking, but usually I don't have to foot the bill!
Thanks for the kind words, certainly gives me enthusiasm to keep going into the garage and get it done!
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Haha that a proper job of smashing that up!
Must have gone with some force to blow a hole that size and smash the starter mount too.
At least it's on the mend tho, and onto bigger and better engine wise :)
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holy moly, that was a hell of a mess! too bad that you enjoyed it for a short time since crash.
even though, was an opportunity to improve and get a few more horsies from the PY.
with those rods, you should get you crank polished and balanced...just an thought!
good luck with rebuild, keep posting pics!
cheers
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what rpm where you doing when it let go mate? m6 toll and rod letting go would normally = high rpm/big speed lol
yea just give me a shout if you get stuck with your rad.
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Was coming onto the M6, 3rd gear WOT about 4500rpm, stripped a little more down tonight, bent valves on No. 3 cylinder, and the piston is 100% mantle piece material now. Head will be repaired with a new set of guides/seats and two new valves.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02564.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02565.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02566.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02567.jpg)
I'm still not 100% convinced it was a rod bolt that let go first, no one can tell for sure but it seems to be the most probable root cause.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02568.jpg)
Sump is also dead so I need to weld a new fitting in another sump for the oil drain.
More gore pictures:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02569.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02570.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02571.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02572.jpg)
Parts have been shipped from Germany now, so by next week I should have everything for the rebuild.
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Shit luck dude!
On the bright side.. It should be good for more ponies now! ;D
Glad to seee your on it!
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So, time for an update. I have the Club Polo trackday booked at Blyton in a few weeks time, and BVF was falling on my birthday weekend, and I'd just shat my engine fairly comprehensively.
Sat 14th I picked this up from Surrey:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1713.jpg)
Saved some time as it came with a 1341cc bottom end (but no BVH).
Already had stuff booked that weekend and Monday, so that basically gave me Tuesday- Friday lunchtime to strip en engine out the black G, rebuild with forged rods and a BVH, get all the rebuild parts, repair my leaking ally rad, put it in the car, and drive to BVF. Simples eh? Quickly filled my holiday sheet in on the Friday, and told work I'd see them in a week...
Here in, lies the tale, of the engine I have aptly named, 'the bastard'.
So we start on Tuesday, engine out, gearbox split, and head off... to find its a stock head, bugger. Quick call to previous owner and PeteG40 sees me with some cash back, and me due to pick a new head up from Pete (thanks Lewis/Pete).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1734.jpg)
Spend the rest of the day splitting parts off my failed 1341cc motor. That evening I drive up to collect the head from Pete and have a brew.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1716.jpg)
Wednesday- parts arrive from Germany, and rods/bolts are already here, so split the new 1341cc further and take rods from pistons, install new rods. Start to put new rods back in bottom end, torquing them up happily (ARP torques not VW), and SNAP.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1737.jpg)
Fuck. Game over.
So a call to the supplier and some head scratching later, I realise I've been an utter rainman and torqued them up to the incorrect bolt spec. 15lbft too much. With my background this is an epic failure. Call back to supplier, £80 later, lesson learnt, don't be a smart arse and read instructions properly.
Removed the other bolts, which had started to neck, they're now on my shelf of broken shit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1735.jpg)
I didn't take many pics over the next day or so...
Thursday comes, and rod bolts arrive by courier about half 2. Hmm, leaving Friday lunch looks highly doubtful! Anyway, put everything back together and find on Thursday night, 'the bastard' strikes again, this engine can't like the thought of 1.5bar up it's arse or something... fighting every step of the way, 2 cam bearing studs pull. Arse, they're M7 and need helicoiling, not a problem I've got a kit as this is a common problem, kit is at my old unit 120miles away. The Bastard strikes again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1744.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1746.jpg)
So I get everything back together anyway, and figure I can sort it Friday, this is 7hrs of work:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1748.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1750.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1752.jpg)
I finished about 10.30pm Thursday night, engine still not fired/checked.
5am Friday morning, drive to Chelford, collect Helicoil kit, tell myself I'm mad, and drive home. Helicoil both studs, torque/angle them and they're good, sweet! Fill with fluids, and then fire it up. Running on 3 cylinders, arse, it's half 12 now, should be leaving in an hour for BVF.
Whip the plugs out, carbon deposit stopping cyl 1 firing, sound. Back to the full 4 now. Time it up and chuck the tent in the back, have a shower and wonder what I've not torqued up...
Andy gets home from work, we load the car up and leave about half 2 to meet Pete and Sam and convoy onto BVF. Car starts smoking.... hmmm, I did wonder where all the oil from my bottom end went, most of it seems to have been soaked into my manifold/downpipe wrap, que smoking for the next 50miles whilst other road users look generally worried.
Arrive at BVF, beaming. It's my birthday weekend, and my car and mates are there, sweet!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_1754.jpg)
I was utterly shattered all weekend, but well worth it. Currently got a boost leak, but no other problems!
See you at Blyton in a few weeks, I need to put some more miles on it before then, will hopefully be back at full boost too. (Still quicker than a 'Rado G60 at 0.9bar :P)
Yoof
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Well done!!
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That is an epic effort mate, great stuff!
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Awesome effort there mate! Ball ache after ball ache!
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Another (expensive) piece of ball ache:
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/527225_10151975290275191_1868576851_n.jpg)
Turbine blades seem to have made contact with some debris post rod failure... no trackday for me, and another £££
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er grim... it never rains but it pours comes to mind!
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Its too great of a motor to give up thats the thing, it is basically a Legend.
I hope you dont lose heart in this as its what makes half of the members on here keep modifying there Polo.
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er grim... it never rains but it pours comes to mind!
Aye! Tell me about it :'(
Waiting to hear back from Turbo Dynamics about the turbo now, I'm kinda hoping it's toast as it should solve my problems, if not I've got a base engine problem (arse).
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I hope this is ready for action, although I'm not going a mate will be watching out for you n andy
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You sure have had a bad run of luck with this. ???
Good luck with it Pete.
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Back and running 1.1bar with a broken actuator bracket... :-\
Lost a fair amount of pre-load on the actuator so got to make a new bracket before Curborough next week.
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Back on the road, running 1.3bar currently as actutor braket is still cracked (temp repair), now back on slicks are ready for Curborough tomorrow with Club GTi:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/A7975D8F-6CAB-4599-9EFD-EE2F035ACF04-346-00000022C7BFA9FA.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/9799E458-CC74-445D-81E2-3C50C47CE843-346-00000022E254A241.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/BF493CFE-B9F3-4095-BEB1-06A573CEDF37-346-00000022ED63AFFE.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/6AF46B03-7475-4493-BB89-4442D352289B-346-00000022F9E0C2FB.jpg)
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you sure dont mess about !
at 1.3bar of boost what is the estimated power then .??
really one a of a kind this motor!
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Enough to shit 3rd gear out the side:
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217853_10152093665745191_1300191579_n.jpg)
:D
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:o you really don't have much luck with this motor at the moment!
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:D Bloody hell Y00f! Thank god you did take it on a trailer.
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Ouch, proper test slut this is turning out then! Presuming you are going to save the what you can from the gearbox, I've got a spare casing you can have for cheap. Might even have a broke AHD i can raid a 3rd gear from too :)
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Cheers for the offer Nick, I might take you up on it when I exhaust my current collection of ATVs ;D
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I've got 2 G40's boxes, one in service and one awaiting service :D
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no plans to change to a different box in future then ?
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I've got 2 G40's boxes, one in service and one awaiting service :D
I currently have 7- 3 of them with diffs in (2 plate, one ATB), the rest standard or in need of repair!
Anthony- Maybe, but I did some sums today, it would be cheaper to drop a big block and gearbox in than just a box on its own.
Will get another ox made up and see what I can do to make things stronger.
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ouch!..
lets hope you dont get tired of changing them!
i'd have given up by now a think!
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Some pics from the day:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_65231.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_6521.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_6515.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_6510.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_6497.jpg)
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Looks really cool!.
Something a bit different really.
Always impressed Pete!
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i love those Bergen cup arches and they look perfect in black. what effect does that low offset wide wheels have on handling ?? is the steering alot heavier but the car in more stable because of the wider track ?
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i love those Bergen cup arches and they look perfect in black. what effect does that low offset wide wheels have on handling ?? is the steering alot heavier but the car in more stable because of the wider track ?
In theory, you increase track width, you make something more stable (it rolls less), car seems very positive on slicks, it's totally different, everything (the plate diff, solid bushes, solid top mounts, cup car suspension) which doesn't work on the road, comes together beatutifully on track.
It's hard to drive (I'll upload a vid) as the rate of torque increase is so violent when it comes on boost, I'd like to do some work on this when I get time, overall I'm getting there with it, just need a decent gearbox (this one was crap from the start) for some reliability.
After that I have few excuses left, all down to driver talent (or lack of!).
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A vid and some pics from the other week. Think this was my quickest run, but still missed 3rd twice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=oGjdpb-JsOU
Tow Car & Track Car:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02613_zps54ad06a5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02616_zps3003d6a2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02617_zpsa2c2e376.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DSC02620_zpse41f14da.jpg)
Will upload a vid from inside the car tomorrow, can see how much it pulls around when accelerating.
Currently in the process of buying a house (with double garage ;D) So not sure how much progress will be made this year.
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Ah thats shit about the gearbox mate, hope it didnt ruin your day too much! Car is looking great and looked like it was much faster down the straight that the mk1 20v t golf. I assume the slicks make it torque steer under accelation a fair bit more than roadies?! What was your fastest time if you dont mind disclosing the information? ;D
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Generally the car feels much better on the slicks, and tracks are always less cambered than the road, so it's much more well behaved. Fastest was 29sec I think, I didn't do one lap without missing 3rd (at least once!) also circuit slicks aren't the best for one hot lap, but it was a good fun day, very relaxed.
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Inside Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgmGmDNWnGs&feature=youtu.be
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hi
just been looking thought your build thread excellent work.
just wondered were you get your fibreglass panels from
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Thanks- Timeless Car Design in Germany, took a while but worth the wait, as with most small production numbers he makes to order. Really good quality fit (best I've had), they're cured properly too, so don't smell strongly of GRP when you unwrap them.
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Thanks I will have a look
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Time to blow the dust/snow off the old girl and spruce her up- I've got a house move looming, and would like the car running before then (April).
Current state it requires a new actuator bracket/actuator rod, clutch re-sintering, and a new gearbox.
I'd thought for quite a while the Gripper LSD + big turbo was making things quite hard to drive, plate diff is obviously best for grip, but I think it's partly to blame for so many broken gears, so bring in the Quiff- which I'm hoping will enduce a littl more wheelspin, and ease the load on the gearbox (turning the boost down isn't really an option...)
So, the quiff:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/722E9F68-C5D1-4DBE-A2BB-46D9F2CF503E-560-000000CCC02229AE_zps268626fd.jpg)
Have another 085 ATV for it to do in, fresh diff bearings on their way from VW, and will build it up ready for once I have space to take the engine out (after I've put the engine back in my blue G40... ::))
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14th of april is your target date for santa pod\ ;)
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/62857_10152741402125191_1231346216_n.jpg)
OH HAII
Only running 18psi as the actuator bracket still has a crack in it, won't be sorted pre house move, but it's back on the road ;D
Thanks to Andy for lending me the wheels, I'll leave some tread on the tyres...
Quiff is as expected, not close to the cornering grip of the Gripper, but much nicer to drive, still whiirs away mind. I'd say it has 70% of the capability of the Gripper, and 5 times as driveable
Next on the list is a decent PCV system and have a look into the steering over centre (probably castor angle) oh and to introduce it to it’s new garage ;D
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sweet whens its next outing ?!
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woop!!
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Now back in the garage for a few mods before Santa Pod/Trackdays this summer. Remote oil filter/thermostat going on, some tidying up of wiring, and a pukka suspension setup at Center of Gravity. Oh and the gas...
Polo in its new house:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3476_zps3765870d.jpg)
And on the scales:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3479_zps427733fe.jpg)
776kg full fluids (washer, methanol, coolant, oil) half a tank of petrol
Split with driver in: 63% Front / 37% Rear - 53% Right / 46% Left
All in I'm fairly chuffed with that, lots of cage & turbo/intercooler over stock, and still have a full sized battery & dash.
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Update time, last few weeks have been spent putting the nitrous back on, having the suspension alignment done, and then a trip to Santa Pod to shake everything down.
First up was to get everything pointing in the right direction, I'll do a full review of this later, as I've not driven the car on track yet:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3668_zpsa15c7058.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3670_zps8b679d7a.jpg)
Rear axle mounts modified, shim spacers on the sub axles to adjust camber and toe, lots more measurements taken along the way, full review after my next trackday. Thanks to Chris at CofG for his efforts, I'll no doubt sing his praises at a later date :D
Gas bits (bottle heater):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3666_zpsc8f47f65.jpg)
Keeps a constant pressure by heating the bottle, maintains ~950psi
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3674_zpse26c1972.jpg)
NA vs Boost:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/275F4488-3380-4F8F-9707-F6A5D8216881-2826-000002DCD7D59785_zpscec61d7d.jpg)
Santa Pod time, boost wound down to 20psi but was pinking, so backed out of each run (only managed 3) best 13.1 @ 109mph, showing power is there, but need to sort the pinking issue before next outing, I suspect aquamist isn't working.
Pics, ronald is my mates, awesome little toy!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3700_zpsdbe7b05a.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3701_zps05d21a8d.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3702_zps8072ddf1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_3705_zpsdfc28a56.jpg)
If I can sort this issue out, I'm hoping to get some runs in on Sunday at VW Action, should be quieter then, although it's twice the cost.
Cheers
Pete
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Bloody love this car an wish i had a garage that neat aswell! What sort of times are you wanting? High 12s?
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Already ran a 12.5 with the K03 and nitrous, so anything under that, there's a certain T40 which ran 12.0 I'd love to equal or beat, but mine isn't really light enough, or using the right box..!
Garage isn't always that tidy.... honest :D
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I know which u mean got him on facebook. He's complaining of poppin cv boots any advise?
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Like I've said on club polo dude great work. I reckon you should see the time your after maybe more when you and Andy have hooked it up ;D
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Such an awesome car 8)
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Any thoughts on the Quaife yet?
Glad the hassle was worth it for people to be able to buy them, the £13k bill was scary!
Car is looking GOOOOOOD. As is the garage. Maxi bins ftw!
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Hi yoof were did you get your grp front wings from I carnt find them any were
Thanks
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Wow! Just been through the entire thread, this is amazing!
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Cheers James.
P1RCK - Timeless Car Designs in Germany, I was going to do a group buy, but as usual number dwindled. Definitely more cost effective to get several panels at once (I got 5 panels at once) to save money on postage.
Cheers
Pete
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Iv had a look on timless car design they have only got a bonnet on there at the momment do they make them on request
Thanks
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Engine and gearbox out:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/7AF3B1D1-FF93-4F15-9AFE-11678CE3A477_zpszadvtmiw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/BFBCE8BE-3FF5-4DA4-8B8F-6B05FCF5A0D3_zpsiu17xfca.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/D9CF0D29-7A05-4499-98F4-4AA1A4E6F65C_zpshbqj2ebl.jpg)
I've had enough of breaking drivetrain components, so am fitting a larger 02J gearbox- although the list of modifications required is long, I'm hoping it will be worth it, tuned 20v don't seem to bother them until 400bhp, so I'm hoping a little more than half that shouldn't bother it too much.
Time to get the grinder and welder out :)
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Look forward to seeing your progress, looks bigger in photo's than real life.
Hope you get on well with the 'tougher, stronger' gearbox option!
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Noice! What's involved in fitting the bigger box then? custom shafts, mounts, bell housing adapter, linkage? etc etc?
I have been thinking about the box's that the skoda Felicia kit cars ran... though I'm now skint cause I bought a house and a Talbot Sunbeam. Doh
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Also how you getting on with those wheels? the cars evolved into a right little machine!
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Lots of chassis cutting, bespoke; mounts, clutch, adapter plate, speedo drive, driveshafts, sump, oil pump, downpipe etc...
Skoda kit car that was the hewland gearset? I didn't think they could take much torque (only N/A in the Skoda) Talbot sounds like fun!
Wheels are good, although I've never tried to get that resin stuff off them... :D
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Look forward to seeing it progress! Yeah the Skoda kit car. 6speed dog box at first made by Hewland, then I think Skoda motorsport made their own versions for the latter evolutions - I think the 1600 vw based ones
The sunbeam was spur of the moment thing, guna be a full group A ti historic rally car! got all the right bits... skip brown group A homligated engine etc etc...
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Pete!!! How you been?
Right I'm seriously interested I'm this golf gearbox conversion, soon I will have the space to cut chassis legs and all that other fun stuff, if your going to make a conversion kit for people to buy through ppp I'm extremely interested
What sort of gearbox's are we limited to here? I'd like cable change, hydro clutch for a pedal box and 6 speed, as well as being able to handle the torque increase, what you thinking?
Will have the money too mate
Thanks :)
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6 Speed = 02M... good luck!
I'll post up details in a few weeks once I've got something worth posting ;)
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Looking forward to the update Pete, hope this thing will be at inters!
Cable linkage n hydro clutch will be the icing on the cake of the conversion. Keep us posted dude
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Would you be able to just change the bell housing over? Or is that not so easy ?
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Would you be able to just change the bell housing over? Or is that not so easy ?
Even if you can, driveshaft flanges will be wrong and in the wrong place. Will be cable change and hydro clutch
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you can't swap the bell housings over, that's why he's using an adapter plate
Nice work Pete interesting stuff!!
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History
085 Transmissions have a reputation of being weak especially in higher powered boosted applications. Not surprising given the 084 is was based on had to handle 895cc of power and a lightweight Mk1. Add a little weight, and lots more power (about 4 or 5 times the amount of the Mk1) and it’s not surprising a 230bhp G40 will strip gears for fun.
So far my 085 failures have been:
• Inner CV Joint
• 2nd Gear
• 3rd Gear
• 5th Gear
• Diff/Final Drive Bolts
Time for a change...
Gearbox Options
Various options are available depending on budget, time and ability. My own headline figures to work to are:
• 200kW (268bhp) Crank Power
• 300Nm (221lbft) Crank Torque
• 750kg + 2 Passengers (150kg)
Other consideration needs to be given for:
• Gear ratio options
• LSD options
• Clutch/Flywheel Combination
• Chassis Modifications Required
• Quantity of non-OEM parts
• Cost
That leaves some obvious choices:
085 Gearset
http://www.klaus-bernert.de/rennsport.shtm (http://www.klaus-bernert.de/rennsport.shtm)
Not a huge amount of information about these, especially at the power/torque levels required. To benefit from the sequential requires an EMS change, or additional control for torque reduction (ignition/fuel reduction) during shift. Cost is high (6500EUR+)
Getrag R65 5C39
(http://new.minimania.com/images_temp/800600001nmd6020a.jpg)
From a Mini Cooper S, 6 speed with triple shafts, so is shorter than most conventional FWD boxes (ala 02M). Custom clutch and flywheel required, along with mounting, shifter mechanism, and must be hydraulic clutch. Good spread of ratios with a 540mm tyre diameter (175/60R13 or 20/54-13 slick) gives 150mph in 6th at 7000rpm. One to think about...
Sequential Sadev/Gemini/Ricardo etc
(http://hansenold.entos.net/bilder/bilder_sadev_transmission/Sadev%20FrontWD%20ST75-14.jpg)
£10k+ not being considered!
02a/02J
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w272/premier135f/IMG_2139.jpg)
Validated to 250Nm for production in larger (note heavier) applications, so should be capable of handling more torque in a lighter Polo chassis. A good range of gear ratios, gear sets available, wide range of LSDs readily available. Gearbox can be had from £50 upwards, and have been in production recently. A mix of VW parts means cable change for the clutch, and flywheel/clutch combinations should be achievable without too many custom parts.
Worth noting 02M is a 6 speed, but is heavier and larger than the 02J, it has a torque capacity of 350Nm, and obviously has a bolt on transfer box for the 4wd applications (S3 etc) little overkill though.
Gear Ratios
I run various wheel/tyre combinations on the Polo, for gear ratio calculations the diameter/circumference of the tyre is important, here’s mine:
175/60 R13 (Stock G40) – 540.2mm
20/54-13 (Slick) – 540mm
18/53-13 (Wet Slick) – 530mm
20.8-14 (Drag Slick) – 508mm
For the comparison I’ve used a 540mm diameter tyre. I rev the Polo to 7,000rpm on track and have used half max rpm to calculate a cruising speed at 3500rpm.
Stock G40 gives:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/G40_ATV_zps45ec385d.jpg)
150bhp 20v 02J gives:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/02J_EBD_zps2a3b1613.jpg)
Not really ideal, similar to a GT box in terms of ratio spread.
180bhp 20v 02J gives:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/02J_EHA_zpsf1a626c7.jpg)
Ratio spread with ATV on a 540mm tyre:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/085vs02J_zps9d39047d.jpg)
Next instalment will cover adapter plate design and machining to couple the 02J to the PY block, all for now!
Pete
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Pete you dam legend! Thanks for that! Can't wait to see what's next!!! :D
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Saw it on Facebook and rich has posted it, roettele racing have got an 02a gearbox that fits polo
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They have- similar principal to how Sorg used to do it, although it wouldn't be my first choice because:
- 2 gearbox casings required
- Tolerance hard to achieve with welded in components (centre of clutch spline to dowels <0.1mm)
- You have an expensive gearbox casing!
It does save you the width of an adapter plate (10-15mm) though.
Plus I guess it's a similar price to Sorg, so fairly expensive.
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They have- similar principal to how Sorg used to do it, although it wouldn't be my first choice because:
- 2 gearbox casings required
- Tolerance hard to achieve with welded in components (centre of clutch spline to dowels <0.1mm)
- You have an expensive gearbox casing!
It does save you the width of an adapter plate (10-15mm) though.
Plus I guess it's a similar price to Sorg, so fairly expensive.
The rottele method would also save you additional costs of fly and clutch setup.
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They have- similar principal to how Sorg used to do it, although it wouldn't be my first choice because:
- 2 gearbox casings required
- Tolerance hard to achieve with welded in components (centre of clutch spline to dowels <0.1mm)
- You have an expensive gearbox casing!
It does save you the width of an adapter plate (10-15mm) though.
Plus I guess it's a similar price to Sorg, so fairly expensive.
The rottele method would also save you additional costs of fly and clutch setup.
Flywheel yes as you can use a polo item, clutch friction plate needs a golf spline, and 200mm, so custom required... Like the one you're selling.
Also clutch release bearing needs adapting for golf arm to Polo clutch fingers.
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They have- similar principal to how Sorg used to do it, although it wouldn't be my first choice because:
- 2 gearbox casings required
- Tolerance hard to achieve with welded in components (centre of clutch spline to dowels <0.1mm)
- You have an expensive gearbox casing!
It does save you the width of an adapter plate (10-15mm) though.
Plus I guess it's a similar price to Sorg, so fairly expensive.
The rottele method would also save you additional costs of fly and clutch setup.
Flywheel yes as you can use a polo item, clutch friction plate needs a golf spline, and 200mm, so custom required... Like the one you're selling.
Also clutch release bearing needs adapting for golf arm to Polo clutch fingers.
True , helix or any other good clutch manufacture can make a G40 cover plate to suit an 02a bearing if needed , it could be more cost effective in the long run as you'd save on a custom flywheel and 10mm + on the chassis side. Both methods have their benefits . Some people may not want to cut into the chassis leg due to potential issues with MOT for picky testers. Not too much of an issue on a track car though
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Don't really fancy cutting my chassis legs, they are weak enough as it is lol. Is it more than likely I will need to cut the chassis leg where 5 gear is on the box if an adapter plate is fitted
The starter would be on the front of the box for a golf box :) would be soo much easier for access
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You need to cut it for both methods, and potentially the bulkhead.
Helix want £300+ for the clutch, as do Sachs but they won't alter a pressure plate to take a Golf bearing.
IMO better off with a Golf flywheel, Golf clutch (organic) and Golf release bearing. Can make the assembly weigh similar to stock G40 although the inertia is slightly larger due to a bigger diameter.
Golf starter motor also lighter than a Polo one by over a kilo ;)
MOT not an issue, nor are MSA regs
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Sounds like a damn good idea to me Pete ;D
Hello by the way. First post on this here forum ;D
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Cutting chassis leg on my genuine g40 eeek!, if that's the only possible way, I'm having second thoughts :(
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Cutting chassis leg on my genuine g40 eeek!, if that's the only possible way, I'm having second thoughts :(
No way it will fit without.
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Dammit!! That's pissed on my fire. If I can't fit a gold box I can't go g60 :/
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Not doing it, roettele racing posted pics of thier progress cutting the chassis leg, looks horrific, not for me thanks. Not on a genuine G anyway
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Yeah and see they were cutting into their subframe as well.
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Nasty, looks hideous!
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People cut chassis legs all the time. Usually to notch them for hellasick stance y0.
This is a much more worthy cause, surely?
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Of course ;)
I hope there will be a little more engineering finesse on my solution too.
Taylor- Unless you're planning a big turbo conversion, or high abuse road rally/track I'd stick with an 085. Sensible driving and 200bhp means you might only break one a year ;D
Chassis leg cutting is a little further down the line, but the aim is to keep standard suspension pickup points, and have a bespoke frame made if required.
Will post my next update a little later :)
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Ok Pete, thanks, g60 charger on an 085 gearbox...
Let's just hope that one time it destroys itself isn't in Switzerland lol, I was more worried that when I get a diff, the massive boost at low speed will just tear it apart
There's chassis modifications, but the pics they posted look nasty, really hacked the shit out of the leg
Sorry for crashing on your thread Pete
Well if your finished item looks nice and there is minimal angle grinder attacking I may still be interested
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Just let me know when I can drop mine off on a Friday afternoon and pick it up the following Friday done! :P :-*
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Ok Pete, thanks, g60 charger on an 085 gearbox...
Let's just hope that one time it destroys itself isn't in Switzerland lol, I was more worried that when I get a diff, the massive boost at low speed will just tear it apart
There's chassis modifications, but the pics they posted look nasty, really hacked the shit out of the leg
Sorry for crashing on your thread Pete
Well if your finished item looks nice and there is minimal angle grinder attacking I may still be interested
I didn't realise you are going G60- yeah... you'll kill boxes ;D
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Thats the only reason why i didn't go G60. But that Portuguese fella never really had problems with boxes.
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It depends what you are doing with the car. Its on/off shock loadings which kill boxes, curb hopping on tracks, loose surfaces, jumps, standing starts etc.
When i had a 200hp/ 170ftlb atmo 2L in my ibiza, and were doing trackdays with the stronger 020 box fitted, i did 2 in a year, cwp failures.
Changed to 02a, moved up to 250hp atmo power, still going strong despite bigger softer tyres. The 02a is heavier than the 020 by about 10kg probably, but its bombproof. I know folks puttng 500hp turbo power through them.
I'm very keen on doing a turbo AFH 1400 for racing, as it would fit into the sub 2L class, but have not done this before due to the box issue with the 085. Now it looks like it might be game on ;D
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It depends what you are doing with the car. Its on/off shock loadings which kill boxes, curb hopping on tracks, loose surfaces, jumps, standing starts etc.
When i had a 200hp/ 170ftlb atmo 2L in my ibiza, and were doing trackdays with the stronger 020 box fitted, i did 2 in a year, cwp failures.
Changed to 02a, moved up to 250hp atmo power, still going strong despite bigger softer tyres. The 02a is heavier than the 020 by about 10kg probably, but its bombproof. I know folks puttng 500hp turbo power through them.
I'm very keen on doing a turbo AFH 1400 for racing, as it would fit into the sub 2L class, but have not done this before due to the box issue with the 085. Now it looks like it might be game on ;D
Hopefully so! Power delivery from a G60 on a 1341cc G40 lump is savage!
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02J to PY
The last post covered a brief decision on which gearbox I have chosen, and why. This will explain my solution to getting an 02J gearbox bolted to a G40 engine.
Plate vs. Bellhousing
Sorg have offered for a good number of years, the option to mate an 085 and 02A/J bellhousing together. This involves removing sections of the 085 (all 5 mounting locations and the starter housing) and welding them into the 02A/J bellhousing.
This is no trivial task, the tolerances between dowel locations and the gearbox input shaft centreline must be <0.1mm to avoid premature wear on the spline. To add to the difficulty some of the later aluminium casings (02T) which could be used, have higher magnesium content, a very skilled task, and one outside of my ability.
I also didn’t like the thought of having a one off gearbox casing; I’ve damaged two with failures previously, which was fine as they are easily and cheaply replaced. The cost of the Sorg option was roughly £900, plus a custom clutch (I don’t include other custom parts as they are necessary for both adapter plate and bellhousing options, I’ll cover them later).
So, the Sorg option uses the following:
- 085 Bellhousing
- 02A/J Bellhousing
- PY Flywheel
- PY Starter Motor
- Bespoke clutch (200mm with Golf spline)
- Custom adapter for Golf to Polo Clutch release bearing
Total for gearbox mounting, and clutch/flywheel hardware is ~ £1200. I was hoping to achieve everything for under £1k.
Designing an adapter plate allowed me to use a standard 02J gearbox, with no modifications. I could choose to use a Golf flywheel, with an off-the shelf clutch. The main disadvantage of the adapter plate is the extra width it adds to the powertrain. In my case this is 10mm as I have a steel plate, some aluminium solutions in Germany add 15 to 25mm. On a Berg car this isn’t an issue, but I didn't want to encroach on the wheel well too much (despite low offset wheels), I also wanted to keep the driver’s side chassis leg stock.
Adapter Plate Design
When designing the adapter plate there were several key considerations to think about:
- Differential positioning remained the same for 085 and 02J installations, this gives the inboard CV joints sensible articulation, and does not necessitate the need to alter suspension geometry
- Gearbox installation angle to be the same in the Polo as per Golf
The above caveats dictate the angle of the engine. I exchanged a few e-mails with a German friend (who I owe a few beers!) regarding his installation, to check I was on the correct track. Although he has a Sadev box in his Polo now, he’d previously done a similar conversion on another car.
With that I set about measuring some of the components. Robin helped with gathering some figures greatly, so thanks to him- I guess he might end up with one of these at some point, so it’s in his interest ;)
The first design looked something like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/v1_02J_plate_zps7bd541b7.jpg)
That achieved a differential centre line delta of 2mm(X), 26mm(Y) which I think is acceptable.
To keep this diff centreline, and the gearbox installation angle, means canting the engine over from its original position. My measurements roughly showed the PY block sitting at 12° from the vertical. This would need to be nearer 40°, clearly requiring some inlet/exhaust manifold modifications and some thought around the sump/oil pickup. I’ll cover that at a later date as/when I’ve thought about it!
Clearly the box would require two new mounts (B mount, and C Mount) and with the new engine angle I’d need to cut and shut the old A mount to increase the 12° stock to 40° requirement. I will cover this in a later update, as I’m hoping to fit a smaller/lighter alternator too- so will end up making 3 new mounts, possibly adding a 4th to the subframe at the front.
So, enough waffle about the principle! I mentioned previously a 10mm steel plate- I’d decided on Steel for a number of reasons:
- Plate would be thinner than an aluminium counterpart
- Easier to machine than stainless
- Can be nickel plated for corrosion resistance
- Similar expansion rate to block
- I can machine/drill/tap/weld it
- Cheap!
Aluminium offers a nice solution, but I’d need to double the width and helicoil everything. Now, those of you with a background in engineering will probably be thinking, M12 thread, 10mm plate- yes I realise I’m short of the 1xdiameter standard requirement, my excuses:
- 10mm plate easy to come by (12mm was a longer lead time)
- I like round numbers
- 2 out of 5 fixings I can secure with an additional nut
- Golf box uses 6 M12 securing locations, Polo has 5 M12
- I need to keep the plate diameter as small as possible for starter/flywheel engagement (a topic I will cover later)
- I can switch to a fine pitch thread if more engagement is required (standard M12x1.75 currently)
Adapter Plate Mockup
With a design in the virtual world I needed to transfer it onto something physical. Most printers can’t print 100% and suffer from shunt so a plotter is required. A good mate printed a few copies of the design off for me.
I transferred this onto some 3mm ABS sheet I had knocking about, would be strong enough to bolt through with abit of support, and give me a decent idea of what needed to be modified.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_45011_zpsfe90db4b.jpg)
I still had the Polo starter motor mountings at that point as I wasn’t sure what direction I wanted to go. Once I’d cut it out roughly it got mounted in the car, the angles aren’t correct, but gave me a flavour of what to expect.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_45451_zps088f5a12.jpg)
Before I removed the engine and 085 gearbox I did various measurements so have a good idea of where the engine should sit indexed 40° round.
With this done I did several more iterations of the design- to increase output shaft clearance (use the larger Mk4 Golf items) and to delete the Polo starter motor assembly, with some slight tweaking to hole locations, and double checking all 4 dowel dimensions, which are the most critical part.
Although it looks like it would fit in that picture- the crank is hard up against the chassis leg, and has no pulley/FEAD on it, so need to move over another 35mm or so. Chassis must be cut... :(
Next up is the adapter plate manufacture, and the machine work required post water jet profiling. I’ll save that until next week
Cheers
Pete
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Looking great Pete. Interesting read and looking forward to seeing the chassis mods and final outcome!
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hi
looking yoof I already installed a gearbox of this type in my polo and I had to take the car becomes very slow. I'll post pictures for you.
I did not like the end result but it may be that you like, I had flywheel and clutch golf and golf starter golf all
until the lever cables had with hydraulic clutch.
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/577/lhqk.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/4/2pbs.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/240xq90/c/823/ap8u.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/240xq90/c/268/vpgo.jpg
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Hi Paulo,
Thanks for the pictures, but your gearbox looks like a 02T? The bell housing pattern is different to the 02J/A...
You say it made the car slow- because of the heavier flywheel/clutch or because of the gear ratios? Your turbo is certainly big enough ;D
Cheers
Pete
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hi
the box does not know the code well but it was a golf tdi 90 hp has a final drive ratio of 3.38.
the polo g40 gearbox is 3:33 so it is very close.
I think it was slow because of the group of gears because everything is much heavier and the engine is small.
the wheel I had was great but it was very cut weight was only 4300 kg.
cheers
paulo
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I just went through your build thread again [top quality] and I've just noticed that a con-rod failed on you :o That would devastate me.
You think the con rod bolts were to blame? How old where they? I'm starting to panic thinking I should have uprated my con rods to pec rods too.
Also, what would the difference be between the gt2554r turbo and a k04-023 turbo? Which is bigger? Much lag with the gt2554r? Also, what camshaft are you running?
Awesome work on the gearbox adaptor plate ;)
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Thanks- hard to say what went went first for sure, but I'd guess the rod, the engine doesn't rev much more than stock (only 200rpm more) and the pistons are a fairly similar weight to the cast stock ones, however my cylinder pressure is far higher than standard, which would suggest the rod, not the bolts are to blame.
That engine had done maybe 10,000miles on a K03 (circa 200bhp) and then a good few thousand more on the larger turbo (circa 230bhp) lots of trackdays etc. There's a few G40s that claim to make more power but have not suffered rod failures, although I don't know how hard they're driven etc.
What's the spec of the K04, GT2554R is really suited to track, hence my camshaft/turbo choice (268/268 cam) I wouldn't use this for the road much, either a smaller turbo or more mild cam.
Will update this weekend regarding the adapter plate :)
Cheers
Pete
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Thanks for that mate. Really hope mine will be ok. I cant see it being driven too hard. Well not to the extent a track day car would be driven.
I have never seen that before. Was in shock. I saw you had a post somewhere with an engine mock up or something, and saw the block with the hole in it and thought I was seeing things haha. Really unfortunate!
How do you mean the spec of the K04? I'm building a 1341 with the K04, BVH, 51mm TB, port matched GT inlet manifold and 268 cam etc.
I'm using it for a weekend toy really. Not going to use it on a track or drag strip. Would be too scared of wrecking it.
I was going to use a hybrid K03 but a K04 popped up for sale and thought why not. I actually regret buying it because I reckon its going to create nothing but problems for me. Might go back to a K03 after a while.
Cannot wait to see how this adaptor plate turns out. I'm still set on one when you get it sorted. Will definitely need one if I stick with the K04
Sorry to hijack your thread. Cheers for the reply.
Adrian
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Adrian- Regarding the K04, if you've got A/R Ratios, size of compressor and turbine wheels that will give you a good indication of what it can flow, ideally if you can find both the compressor and turbine maps for that trim of turbo you can match them to your spec, if you search Garrett's website they have a fairly comprehensive guide regarding turbo matching. Although it's not quite as clear cut as that.
I'd be tempted to start with a K03, with a larger map sensor and ~21/22psi you'll see 200-210bhp on your spec, which for the road is plenty!
Rod through the block was unfortunate, it also took £600 worth of roller bearing turbo with it! Lesson learnt... ;D
Adapter plate is in the car and chassis leg is cut, I'll update on Sunday as the thread is a few weeks behind the angle grinder...
Pete
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Adapter Plate
The last post covered the design of the adapter plate; this post covers the manufacture of it.
The plate starts life as a 10mm thick piece of mild steel sheet roughly 400 x 400mm. The profile is then cut with a water jet, these are a nice alternative to laser cutting in my experience, accuracy is dependent on the machine, but typically ±0.02mm I believe this also depends on the thickness of the part and hardness of the material.
In an earlier post I mentioned the accuracy of clutch alignment had to be <0.1mm, I will cover this later in the post, but remember 0.1mm for now.
So, first job was to get the plate cut out, once profiled it looked something like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/CEA0A1BD-64A9-4FA2-81F2-42E73E877ECF_zpstztr2zkm.jpg)
Fairly uninspiring, and not much use- the holes for the golf mounts have been sized for an M12 tap, hence the different sizes, Polo bolt pattern uses through bolts (bar one) so have clearance holes.
Staring at a drawing, lots of tea, and using the Polo spacer plate helped get things sorted in my head:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/201787C7-E4CC-47C3-9F0F-EF46B4CFEFDF_zpswufbm64z.jpg)
In my old unit I used to have a pillar drill, I’ve since moved and had to get rid. This was the perfect excuse for PPP to purchase a drill so I can make these adapter plates; I doubt the profits from adapter plates will ever payback the cost of the drill mind :D
Drill Time
Axminster with a 16mm chuck (important):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/E8F42D54-E9C8-4EC0-B9BD-E9688BAEF395_zps5qs6iwiv.jpg)
So, first job is to bolt the plate down and start lining things up. (The first job was actually the laborious task of getting the drill perfectly level, bolting it to the concrete floor, greasing it all and rebuilding it after dismantling it to securely mount it, but that’s boring...)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/551C628C-ABED-4343-BA75-16211C7504DB_zpsdyzlhbhw.jpg)
The drill is fitted with a conical shaped bit which allows a true center to be found. This is vital, we can assume the holes have been profiled accurately (±0.02mm) so the biggest inaccuracy comes from me setting the drill correctly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/54C67E32-194A-47F9-9BC2-6DD6E3863035_zpsvgow5ih4.jpg)
Once the center has been found (i.e. the headstock isn’t pushed in any direction when engaged with the hole) I then swapped to a 16mm slot drill for the dowels.
I lightly scored the plate and measured the witness marks and convinced myself I’d got everything true:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/A1716AA0-C49D-4056-98B2-902B36A8BF8B_zpsvi9bbw9a.jpg)
Time to make some swarf:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/C0C13402-2941-4418-833F-722E176B37F1_zpsqtubifmj.jpg)
So, first hole cut. I wasn’t happy with the drill, upon measuring the hole it was 16.38mm (Dowel OD is 16.0mm) so the dowel was like a dick in a shirt sleeve. The drill was chattering slightly, I decided to reduce the drill speed, use a different oil (0w40 fully synthetic from the other half’s car) and not be such a wimp.
First Hole with dowel:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/750B66B4-6C7B-488A-BBC9-62F43233F2A0_zpsujsq2g0d.jpg)
Not good!
Second hole with revised cutting speed, lubrication and a little more pressure resulted in 16.09mm, result!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/F565E015-881B-4D21-8CFB-FF32B3492B7E_zpsrayah6uq.jpg)
Second hole with dowel fitted:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/9D1ADAA6-2D21-4E80-A15B-4F4DDF08DF2F_zpsnyd12oi7.jpg)
At this point I decided to measure various boxes I had laying around, I expected bang on 16.0mm from each, I was wrong. 16.08mm to 16.23mm- now some of my boxes have been on and off multiple times, but it was encouraging to know I could get the tolerance towards the tighter end of the spectrum. So, my target of <0.1mm from earlier was looking possible. I have no way of measuring this in an installed position, so I can only go from dowel locations.
My tolerance stack is 0.09mm on the two Polo dowel holes, and 0.02mm on the Golf dowel holes. Although I’m using the holes which had been profiled to locate my center find in, so assume I can get a Polo dowel to 0.11mm and a Golf dowel to 0.02mm. So not quite the <0.1mm original target, but without a milling machine I can’t get this any better, plus it’s an improvement over some of my stock gearboxes!
Onwards!
Countersink
The plate bolts to the Polo block, this dictates the face must have countersunk fasteners, I used an A2 grade stainless M12 countersunk bolt. Quick check of the DIN/ISO standard gave me the angle of the countersink bit I needed to order (they’re usually 90° but worth checking).
So big countersink bit arrived, these are known as snail shells apparently, they don’t chatter and I've been really impressed with it, leaves a nice finish and swarf is easily moved.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/CCA58042-0EF0-46CB-A271-FBAE947CF5B3_zps6bok4qbu.jpg)
This process is the same as the slot drill, fit the center find, adjust, clamp the piece down, check, recheck, measure, adjust etc. Then countersink until the bolt fits flush!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/60D3C338-2892-493B-87B8-023ADFCF5296_zpsbpx5esqb.jpg)
All the bolts holes requiring a thread are then tapped- I used the pillar drill to start them all off, ensuring the thread was perfectly square, worked a treat!
Post Machining
Quick clean up and the plate looked like this (both sides shown):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/4465B758-A164-4258-AA23-8363F128D295_zpsurfh3wqj.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/519A865C-C449-4271-B73E-78C30C28FD5A_zpskscv8ps0.jpg)
You’ll notice there’s a mark from a grinder- for some reason I’d cocked up the measurement of the crank end oil seal housing. Bit of a pain, but it can be removed for mockup and the design revised before the next iteration.
Few more close ups:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/B338BA43-80D0-443E-825C-04C724A44946_zpssdjmdvtw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/58C39F41-5197-4843-A761-5F8C516BDA71_zpsqeegjnrl.jpg)
Dry Build
Once I’d done some measuring and checked the plate was straight and true, I then bolted it onto the Polo block. It is necessary to keep the standard plate so the dowel engagement is correct.
Looks something like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/BE1F291A-A781-46C6-A84D-A790756B0096_zps7bxtyims.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/76ECF161-CC6B-48B0-A1CF-AF028CD474C0_zpswsff9bl8.jpg)
When bolted up the gearbox starts to look fairly large! You can also see the engine canted over to accommodate the driveshaft and output shaft clearance.
In the next update I’ll go over chassis modifications, cutting big holes out the leg, and hammering a square peg in a round hole. Although it will be fairly boring as it’s me making lots of measurements and swearing. I did get to play with my grinder though.
Cheers
Pete
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Pete this is amazing! such awesome fabrication skills dude! the countersink drill is sick!
really liking this
the only thing that worries me is how far forward the engine is tilted, doesnt look like much room for turbo/charger?
cant wait for more updates!!!
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also yes that box looks massive now its bolted up to ickle polo block. its mad to think that tiny engine produces so much power it needs a gearbox bigger than it
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Pete this is amazing! such awesome fabrication skills dude! the countersink drill is sick!
really liking this
the only thing that worries me is how far forward the engine is tilted, doesnt look like much room for turbo/charger?
cant wait for more updates!!!
Plenty of room ;)
(http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6539.0;attach=2009;image)
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Haha ..... WOW! Looks great I mean the plate adaptor , can't wait to see it go, and everybody would love a 16v g40 but only thos who dear get what they want ;-) ,
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Pete this is amazing! such awesome fabrication skills dude! the countersink drill is sick!
really liking this
the only thing that worries me is how far forward the engine is tilted, doesnt look like much room for turbo/charger?
cant wait for more updates!!!
Plenty of room ;)
(http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6539.0;attach=2009;image)
:O :O :O
That is an absolute beast!!!
You have some secret plans yours not telling us? :P
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That's not my car! It belong to Christian from Bavaria, he posted pics a few years back. Worth noting the 02A gearbox (now Sadev) and G60 blower strapped on the front ;)
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Seen your pics up on facebook the other day, cant wait to see this in action.
When do you reckon it will be completed?
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That's not my car! It belong to Christian from Bavaria, he posted pics a few years back. Worth noting the 02A gearbox (now Sadev) and G60 blower strapped on the front ;)
And the 16v head :P I don't think I could cut the leg man! How much do you have to cut off?
Would you really cut chassis legs on a genuine G?
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Jezza- Not sure, I'm in no rush (also organising my wedding - or helping to) so don't have much free time.
Taylor- A fair amount, current pics are on PPP facebook page, but I will update this thread in a week or so. On a concourse car and a low mileage minter I wouldn't, on a 'normal' G40, yeah why not, better than keeping the original setup and breaking gearboxes :)
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Ah cheers dude, just had a look :) looks good!! That gap is very very tight between the turbo and front panel, my one is rotten anyway so I'd probably get a a pattern one and cut a section out of it for the g60 to fit
I can't really see a great deal of cutting on the chassis legs, any chance of a close up? It does look alot more professional than roettele racing, they just hacked the shit out of it
With an even weaker chassis leg will it need to be reinforced? If I go g60 I will be getting a stage 3 anyway
Mines far from mint, but after all the work I've done it's getting that way. Saying that every single removable panel is from another car haha, and the mileage is 120k
I need a think :( I could talk to you at the show in may, but I hear your "handbrake" is playing up haha
Cheers yoof
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Turbo has a fair amount of clearance really, but depends on your manifold/turbo config.
The G60 would sit below the front panel, and the alternator the other side of the block- so you'd actually get around the lader more easily.
Chassis leg a the moment has just been cut, no cleaning of it yet, I won't do that anyway (will go to our subframe chap) as he is a much neater welder than me! I will mock the engine mounts up though and check driveshaft angles.
Chassis leg will have CDS reinforcement, although I've got to be mindful of MSA regs if I want to compete. The subframe is really key to this working.
My handbrake is well serviced and doesn't drag ;) Although I can't get to Stanford Park, might go to GTi Fest if the weather is decent.
Cheers
Pete
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Thats good news then! :) i need to see some g60 build threads but i cant find anything! i mean thats the first ive heard you need to put the alternator at the back, would be like a 16v g60
i thought it would be, ill definitely be going stage 3, i never noticed how much bigger and thicker the stage 3 is over stage 2 until i was looking at jezza and my car side by side
CDS? like cd's?
ok mate, cheers for that :) ill stop asking questions until its finalized and done :) if i do go down this route it wont be until next winter so gives me from now till then to get everything right with what i need to do
Lucky you! mines not! always seizing! needs a good seeing to with a... um... hammer to free them..... :(
nah i wont be, tax man bum raped me so cant afford it :( i went to a gti fest late last year and it was poop :(
Thanks dude
Taylor
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Might see you at gti fest if your going to april and weather is good.
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Nothing much to update as I've been busy with other cars, managed a few hours on it this week, started to mock the A-mount up, and engine/box are currently in a position I'm fairly happy with.
So, take some sheet steel, some CDS, grinder and file and one of these:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/8E457D55-9755-4B1E-9E4A-5277D588A7BA_zpskohdjihp.jpg)
Give yu a load of random shaped pieces of metal:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/C91EFA3D-E349-4BD7-AF77-F7A80F15DFF4_zpsuuuatbna.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/1FA9758B-3E19-4A28-AA15-DB2EA1FB36C0_zpsikhwjycn.jpg)
In situ looks something like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/7A4C432C-525E-4F86-8DD7-025951B70E42_zpshscoduyj.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/6C7C976B-C8D1-4F9E-B48F-197CD47027FA_zpshhmnxyvu.jpg)
Currently looking at which MIG to buy, then I'll start welding pieces back in, rather than chopping them out ;D
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Epic work.
On the hole tolerance side of things we were always told to drill undersize and use a reamer to achieve accurate hole size?
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Epic work.
On the hole tolerance side of things we were always told to drill undersize and use a reamer to achieve accurate hole size?
Yup- in my case though no matter what the drill (or slot drill or reamer) the play in the headstock of the drill, and me setting it up is the biggest inaccuracy :)
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Adapter Plate Design
When designing the adapter plate there were several key considerations to think about:
- Differential positioning remained the same for 085 and 02J installations, this gives the inboard CV joints sensible articulation, and does not necessitate the need to alter suspension geometry
- Gearbox installation angle to be the same in the Polo as per Golf
The first consideration makes sense to me, because you want to keep the driveshaft angles as straight as possible right?
But why does the gearbox need to be in de same angle as it is in the original car?
Also, do you have any updates on this project? Since I am following this with great interest. ;)
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Surely to keep the oil level sitting in it's original orientation and preventing oil starvation of the gearsets?
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Surely to keep the oil level sitting in it's original orientation and preventing oil starvation of the gearsets?
Correct- also it means I can use as many standard box parts as possible (shift linkages etc), I don't have details of the original installation tolerance on the 02 boxes, so not sure what I can get away with.
I do however know engines a little more than gearboxes, and thankfully have several V configurations around me to reference when canting my engine over.
Not many updates recently, been busy with another car. Will get back on this soon!
Lots of people have been in touch about adapter plates- I will be doing some (a very short run) but only when I'm happy with the position on my car.
Cheers
Pete
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You need a thread about the other weapon as well man, when you do a run of those plates let me know, i'd like to have one!
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You need a thread about the other weapon as well man
That'll come in due course once we've got a bit more sorted on it!
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Hi Sri to be a pain but Where did you get your arches from because I baught a set but they don't fit very well at all
Thanks
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Hi Sri to be a pain but Where did you get your arches from because I baught a set but they don't fit very well at all
Thanks
Hi,
Genuine WL Motorsport items designed for the Mk3, all the other (cheaper) copies don't fit as well. They needed some tweaking as I've also got GRP front wings, and my rear 1/4 had an argument with a barrier at Oulton ;D
Cheers
Pete
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Cheers Pete
I have tried to get in contact with the before but had no luck on reply how did u get hold of them
Thanks mat
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E-mailed them- they speak very good English, there's also a phone number on their site :)
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Adapter Plate Design
When designing the adapter plate there were several key considerations to think about:
- Differential positioning remained the same for 085 and 02J installations, this gives the inboard CV joints sensible articulation, and does not necessitate the need to alter suspension geometry
- Gearbox installation angle to be the same in the Polo as per Golf
The above caveats dictate the angle of the engine.
I still don't really get it. Why does the above dictate the angle of the engine? When you have the position of the gearbox correct, can't you just rotate the engine say 360 degrees around the gearbox? Why can't you keep the engine in the original angle, and needs it to be rotated to 40 degrees?
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No, unfortunately these annoying driveshafty things seem to get in the way...
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Yeah, there quite important to.
But is it because of the 26 mm delta in Y direction? So the drive shaft mounts are 26 mm's higher than with the 085 box, and that means you get contact with whatever is located back there? To require this clearance, you need to rotate the engine 28 degrees?
*edit*
I've been looking a bit on the net, and Roettele also offers this conversion, but the engine doesn't seem to be rotated. Can you tell me what the difference is between the Roettele conversion, and yours?
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Yes, it's earlier in the thread. They take two casing halves from the 02 series, bolt them together, and then weld sections from an 085 transmission in.
Means you have to buy 3 gearboxes from the off, and leaves you with a custom gearbox housing, not the direction I wanted to take.
Look at this picture, it will help explain:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/BE1F291A-A781-46C6-A84D-A790756B0096_zps7bxtyims.jpg)
Distance between gearbox input centreline and diff centreline is fixed for both boxes (obviously), and I need the input shaft to align as per the original box, the diff centreline is the un-constrained variable, which isn't far away from a stock box (allows sensible driveshaft angle and articulation).
Unfortunately, I can't sit the engine in a stock position with this box, as the rear mount on the block would be in the driveshaft centreline.
Thus canting the engine over (not enough room to cant it rearwards btw)
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Allright, that makes sense, it is clear to me now. Thanks for the explanation.
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Fabrication - Part 1
So, I haven’t been working on my Polo that much over the summer, but now with winter time, I’m in the garage a few nights a week. Deadline is to have it running and MOT on the road by Easter next year, and use it as my wedding transport June 2015.
On with some fabrication, it all fairly self explanatory, cardboard cut-out, transfer to steel, weld in steel... a few points I had to consider:
- Retain subframe mounting points
- Not spaceframing the front end (although with hindsight this may have been easier)
- Fitting everything in with a reasonable static clearance (20mm+)
- Driveshafts
- Everything else, shifter mech, starter motor, clutch actuation, speedo cable, reverse light switch etc.
The engine will be fairly stiffly mounted at 4 points, A and B mount on both longitudinals, these support the powertrain roughly in its desired installation angle, then C & D mounts to resist torque, Polo as standard doesn’t use a front gearbox mount, but due to how I will mount the C mount, it’s necessary for this.
So, after I’d cut a fairly sizable hole, and made a Polo even more wobbly than usual, I got to welding bits in. For the next stage of welding I’ll mount the subframe back up so the chassis is as per previous geometry. On to the pics...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5810_zpsa1be33c8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5810_zpsa1be33c8.jpg.html)
After cutting a big hole, I had a think about supports, my intentions was to mask as much as possible under the original chassis legs, it's neater and doesn't raise as many eyebrows come MOT time.
So, this was the plan:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Tube_CDS_Plan_I02_zpsef7218e4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/Tube_CDS_Plan_I02_zpsef7218e4.jpg.html)
Which obviously required lots of cardboard templates, measuring, cutting, and making of mess:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5805_zpsd6e39605.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5805_zpsd6e39605.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5802_zps3c33f825.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5802_zps3c33f825.jpg.html)
And my least favorite part of fabrication, getting old seam sealer, paint etc off the chassis, deep joy.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5808_zps45b07eed.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5808_zps45b07eed.jpg.html)
First on the list was to weld the two lengths of CDS together and insert them in the chassis, several tack/mock ups prior to this to ensure it was right:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5893_zpsc3f6677e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5893_zpsc3f6677e.jpg.html)
Hole saw used on the chassis that had tube passing through it, gave a nice tight fit, these have plates welded over the top to spread load.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5799_zpsbcb23f64.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5799_zpsbcb23f64.jpg.html)
Before I welded the plates in I stitched the chassis leg where possible.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5888_zpsb1365bac.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5888_zpsb1365bac.jpg.html)
And then next was to weld plates in around these tubes, tube poking through the upper chassis leg will be the last one to be completed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5902_zps50f58ae2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5902_zps50f58ae2.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5912_zps92d6387d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5912_zps92d6387d.jpg.html)
A quick tidy up of previous stitch welding on the chassis was done too:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5907_zps5324cd67.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5907_zps5324cd67.jpg.html)
And then moved onto the NSF subframe mounting point, the access tubes are for the fixings, will try to find some plastic caps for them so they don't get full of crud.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5908_zpse5870067.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5908_zpse5870067.jpg.html)
I ran out of gas at this point, so progress has halted up to here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/IMG_5914_zps05519f4d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Young_Un/media/IMG_5914_zps05519f4d.jpg.html)
All for now- please feel free to abuse my welding... it's not like riding a bike, I've still burnt myself several times, still I've remembered what Spanish underseal smells like when it's burning.
Cheers
Pete
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That is pretty cool! :)
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Good progress by the way, this is a very good upgrade in every way compared to the original 085. The only minor downside is the additional weight and a little slower to shift in comparison to a rod 085. But nothing to really complain about
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Good progress by the way, this is a very good upgrade in every way compared to the original 085. The only minor downside is the additional weight and a little slower to shift in comparison to a rod 085. But nothing to really complain about
Cheers- I'd not noticed much difference in shift speed between the 02J and 085, Mk4 20v to various Polos, not that I'd notice anyway!
Additional weight will be interesting, even if it's +30kg, it's worth it!
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Great work Pete.
I certainly wouldn't worry about the weight increase. The gearbox side of the Polo's is lighter anyway especially in RHD cars so it can only help even things up.
Yeah, maybe it won't look cosmetically as good with the engine canted over but other than that I can only see this as a massive improvement on the standard setup if you have a serious piece of kit like this car is.
Keep us posted Pete, BTW - the welding looks pretty good. I've seen far, far worse MOT repairs by garages that are supposed to know what they are doing.
Cheers Rich.
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Just dug out some info
Gearbox only Weights
085 = 34KG
02J = 43KG
Both with CV cups and oil
Only 9kg difference .
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34kg seems heavy for an 085?
Taking 02J back out at the weekend so I'll weigh both, should also add flywheel, clutch, starter weights in too I guess.
That said... I've probably added 15kg in welding wire and 3mm plate :D
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So, a weekend spent with the welder & grinder, and the NSF chassis leg is almost done, about 20hrs to get to this point, I didn't take pics along the way, but essentially the chassis leg was boxed in internally, with two CDS tubes welded in, and then boxed on the external side.
Engine mounts will hang off one of the CDS tubes, that's next weeks job :thumbup:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10917451_323163244558798_8882124157966983736_n.jpg?oh=57e8a6e4d984039fd55f28850948aa8d&oe=55252525&__gda__=1433127837_7419e50c51b32d571bb32767628b8cf0)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1908492_323163267892129_4332556814379736635_n.jpg?oh=07f6b59ad045026c1f1ea212299349c8&oe=55358CDE)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10934075_323163277892128_5246019474105033431_n.jpg?oh=71a3a026d06615be8e6a485d990c6c14&oe=5530AB4E&__gda__=1428739062_b7d88edf34d86c066203bb4d014387b2)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10906285_323163317892124_1782868403371242199_n.jpg?oh=92d196dca189d2fec2db8c6ffc73ac9b&oe=556A2862&__gda__=1429355226_b50e5420acc4d26e3424d7c2dfc0ea20)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10521874_323163337892122_2753242189931332454_n.jpg?oh=ea324085f503efdf768289751d5159b8&oe=55233BE5&__gda__=1429295759_ddcd7e1ba9fc283254dafe8cfd5bfd67)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10926393_323163361225453_1497209172485545619_n.jpg?oh=8904950bea2ba414cbe3b301c0108574&oe=553738A0&__gda__=1429908265_bc50c501a25c62bcef1faa763a121524)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/14304_323163394558783_9210111119505849327_n.jpg?oh=a497755da0d583dbc1e48efc81ed4e8c&oe=552B9DE0)
Cheers
Pete
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Very nice work pete!
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Thanks Max, few more recent pics:
Little more done recently, B-mount is now done, and mocking the A-mount up currently. Time consuming part is dropping the subframe and engine/box out constantly. Hopefully I can get it sat on it's own mounts this weekend, and then measure up for driveshafts.
RobT and Gurds have been useful sources of knowledge regarding gear shift/clutch cables so thanks chaps! More pieces of the puzzle coming together.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10968567_329487303926392_1485026403062687517_n.jpg?oh=ca66397be8ff5c5411f08470bd93d6b4&oe=5550AC5B&__gda__=1431240402_636eeca13236eedef952ee5e0ca732a6)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1656240_329487340593055_3111134431865554171_n.jpg?oh=af6aff95a9d03e13f0dc1eca21b3efaf&oe=555C9835)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10407119_329487380593051_5402582986584301002_n.jpg?oh=c5e24d0a64a6eeb71d8c5ab51f229f07&oe=554E06B9)
Cheers
Pete
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Thanks for posting al of this, I now know to stay with the stock drivetrain for a while. ;) Also a lot of respect from me that goes into al the engineering.
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Cheers- I think in some ways I should have dropped a 20v in, and not farted around with adapter plates and making everything work with the PY lump. But that's half the fun!
I will be glad when the fabrication is over though, literally everything in my garage is covered in grinding dust :(
A- mount has been re-designed to look similar to the B-mount now, brings it much lower in the chassis and has two pickup points. Hopefully engine should be standing on it's own this weekend. I might push it outside for a wash!
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Do you reckon your car will make it to any magazines?
Because this is seriously nuts stuff going on here. Very impressive.
You clearly possess a lot of polo love.
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Do you reckon your car will make it to any magazines?
Because this is seriously nuts stuff going on here. Very impressive.
You clearly possess a lot of polo love.
It's not my goal- I could bolt a set of shiney wheels on it and take some pictures I suppose. I've been asked over the years by a few different ones, car has been mentioned in PVW articles, but it's not something I'm aiming for. If I did do it, I'd probably shoot it with Andy's car (much the same hardware, suited to the road) and get our very own Alex Grant to write the words.
Cheers for the kind words ;D
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Completed the A-Mount now, dropped it down to give similar mounting heights cross chassis to the B mount, engine now sits on its own mounts ;D Need to weld up the C-mount, and push it outside for a wash.
(https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1948056_330694367139019_4323507254594965402_n.jpg?oh=58b558ff99875eb41689eb79ef61bf46&oe=555D7C79)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10847803_330694383805684_7681090115595749838_n.jpg?oh=7fd0832455775e97a2656d4938224ce2&oe=555D4FA6&__gda__=1431800464_6723cf6d9a8907cc39b474a8dda1d8bb)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10387312_330694410472348_2278834510057773686_n.jpg?oh=c33c4738c2862570f603d9acf62a96f7&oe=5569BCED&__gda__=1432388487_900a22a5a5c9b40f883088db139a091e)
Chopped the front panel for turbo clearance, I really don't like it in it's current state, so will invest in an edging tool and neaten it up.
Cheers
Pete
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So, the last few weeks has seen a few steps forward, and several back!
First off, the Team Guru Derby sold- appearing in VWDRC 2015/16 8) some pics of the old girl all clean:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/CC70ABBC-C0EA-4B65-BB48-D9B0AA8CDE77_zps8hwkirwu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/9E96E344-3CB3-485B-9687-B4DA1BE3A84F_zpsabwswgtf.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/FC2ECD04-FF40-449B-A0DF-5EE0B86CB11F_zpsqtchoq3s.jpg)
And I finished all the engine mounts and pushed the Polo outside for a wash, first time in a long while!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/51ADDC1D-1516-457C-B7A8-3ABDF6A3C760_zpszzqa8xne.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/1D393215-12DC-4F69-A440-8B606F260795_zpsc9k9ev38.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/0B44C891-F982-4BF9-9EF6-EF5649B51DBD_zpsx1vorn3v.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/78532157-3191-4B6F-8078-53EA11306324_zps5ncqzh0r.jpg)
So with that bit done, my next bit to sort out was the driveshafts. I need to get measurements as soon as possible as they're fairly long lead time items. Now, Polo CV joints aren't the strongest out there it's fair to say, so with my new stronger gearbox, it makes sense to look at the driveline too.
Inner CV joints easy- bought a set of 100mm bolt in flanges and some Mk2 Golf GKN joints. Job's a good-un. Outer CV joints, little more difficult...
A Mk1 Golf and a Mk2f Polo share a very similar wheel hub design though:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/B3F0552B-3C43-4B1B-9E6B-DEAABC1DCDFF_zpstmzdispz.jpg)
After spending a few hours in a huge SKF catalogue, I had myself convinced they'd fit... I was wrong.
Split everything down (discovered my brakes need new dust seals) ready to go:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/B2A20635-2E13-4AF8-BC4A-966EACB4F92A_zpsmgl78onp.jpg)
And had two clashes (after some light machining) still with the outer CV to bearing housing:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/19D3E6B7-3BEC-4D1E-843F-4B06D48EA5F0_zps016ihfla.jpg)
and with the bearing housing to rear of the wheel hub face:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/E26F2230-2893-463D-A763-E2D03244833F_zps86x33lwo.jpg)
Solution is fettling in all available areas - I'm about 3.5mm off it fitting, so removal of some more material from the outer CV face, the bearing housing, and taking the 0.8mm feature of the rear of the wheel hub (polo one doesn't have this) should see it all clear.
Main pain is every time I fit everything together to check clearances, I knacker a set of bearings, £60 down thus far... ho hum.
So with that I also started looking at shifters, I need a short cables to fit in the Polo- so I did a little reading and purchased a set of 2003 Polo cables and shifter mech, only to find it's identical to the Mk4 Golf one I have... d'oh - Gurds confirmed cable lengths on his Mk1 for me (thanks mate!) circa 960mm and 1010mm.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/CF7B86F6-4B07-4180-8660-8DEFB8514A2D_zpsbunixpeo.jpg)
I was hoping to avoid bespoke cables, cost and availability (in future) are the main worries- so if anyone knows of any VW gearshift cables that are much shorter than the ones above, I'm all ears!
VW Lupo/Fox/Up lengths would be good- I can't find any information on the interwebs.
Cheers
Pete
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Pete,
Not got any specific lengths but what about the cables off the Audi A4 with the transaxle gearbox behind the engine? Might be too short. Just a thought.
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hi
I really like this project was very good but is still getting better.
cheers
paulo
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Thanks Paulo - which gearshift cables did you use?
Ross- Not a bad shout old bean! I'll look into them.
Will take some pics tonight, but C-mount and old rear gearbox mount are now boxed in on the chassis, one more plate to do on the old gearbox mount, next up is subframe modification and finishing off the C-mount (gearbox side)
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hi pete
the cables and the gear sector that I use are a TDI engine (pd) 130cv, golf or seat.
is under way and is more accurate when crossing changes.
but to install these cables you need to get the full kit
1-selector of changes
2-cables
3-that the rod inside the housing which connects the cable
you need to get everything, but is much better
cheers
paulo
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Paulo- I forgot you have a different gearbox to me, it looks like you use a Mk3 Golf style shift tower?
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hi
my box is a 02A to a golf tdi 90cv,my box out is exactly the same as your
but I to mount the box with the motor in position opened the box and changed the cover fixing the block by a golf vr6 and is just in the right position
I can post pictures for you to check out
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/577/lhqk.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/4/2pbs.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/240xq90/c/823/ap8u.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/240xq90/c/268/vpgo.jpg
this cable was the ones I had at the beginning
cables that have now are similar to those that you have al this photo on this page
and I had to mount hydraulic clutch also
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So, a little more fettling and everything fits up. Modified wheel hubs, strut housing and outer CV... all good fun!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/D7BCDCF4-0195-4A6A-9CAA-E1D83981FC18_zpsrstvnahq.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/3DA94805-65DA-4837-9BB9-CF7B1839FF25_zpsehko1oz6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/1BCE6DC1-8868-41CD-AA85-D42B5DFED5F2_zpsrjzcucvu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/FD806D2B-2321-4A92-9A36-7B070879C469_zpsq312lypi.jpg)
And wheel studs re-fitted with Loctite 270 - stood up well the last few years
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/03575943-6034-41EC-8F54-853505C5D7DB_zps6exgpowr.jpg)
Brakes back on and mounted:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/7794FD12-1A1A-4D98-A0DF-EEFBE448C0E1_zpsmfs5alhs.jpg)
Subframe modified for clearance at the rear, now picks up on the redundant cat brace, d-mount also added:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/A0A3BF7A-738C-4A20-AEBA-B810B193D571_zpseenwtcvb.jpg)
C-mount finished:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/E65EAF8B-2772-4986-9768-E95563959A6C_zpsk8pfzfaf.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/755753FC-7F20-48F7-B3F1-9A22F8138E7E_zpsgkznjgve.jpg)
Engine back in, OSF strut assembly to finish then I can measure up for driveshafts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/4CC7352C-28A9-468C-B280-FCEBBC445434_zpswliknyuj.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/04E7DE09-008F-490D-81E3-A03297DD4370_zpspxgtcqtm.jpg)
Cheers
Pete
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Mounted the Mk4 Golf gear shifter:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/59A52598-92EA-489B-8181-6842AFB407B4_zpspqr0xmff.jpg)
Now can measure up for cables and get Ringspann to make them
And I've mocked up both driveshafts, will send off to Reco-prop to be made properly. Parts used are:
Mk1 Golf GTi Wheel Hub
Mk3 Polo Strut Housing
Mk3 Polo Wheel Bearing
Mk1 Golf GTi Outer CV
Mk3 Golf 100mm Output Flanges
Mk2 Golf Inner CV
Mk3 Golf GTi driveshafts
Fairly good mix of VW bits!
So, starts with two halves of shafts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/A7F0B126-F305-43E8-9CFD-F6162A7A26D8_zpsb7zu8lyc.jpg)
Make sure both the CV are halfway in their plunge depth:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/9A7BA643-E445-43ED-8384-70FEB05418DF_zpsryzldgkk.jpg)
Find a piece of CDS that will slide over:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/3DBC5239-B478-4FA1-907D-1791E184D2A6_zpsioms4fwk.jpg)
Tack and weld together:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/43604F52-822D-4892-97F1-71999D251DEB_zpsxmjxwjbv.jpg)
Refit to car:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/0E8317FC-23C6-4238-9B62-06BF08922247_zpshmlkxpb5.jpg)
Driveshaft has hardly any angle, which I'm happy with ;D
Rinse and repeat on the OSF:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/959D9455-1380-44AB-A7F4-E8ECF6B4F74B_zpsfcjxasei.jpg)
Cheers
Pete
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Lookin neat!
What quality/make of choice for wheel bearing do you go with?
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FAG ;D
Been alright in the past :)
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dude this is very impressive fabrication work. welding looks neat too. come along way since i last saw the car.
can i ask where you got the arches for the yellow derby?
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I didn't buy them, but WL or KWL Motorsport ;)
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ah top man! il do a google
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Magnificent, Pete!
That's one hell of a lot of welding! Not to mention the fabrication
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Cheers mate- more updates to come this week. 12 weeks to go!
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So, a few minor updates, I've mostly been busy ordering parts and trying to keep everything on the boil. Run into some difficulties fitting the rear coolant pipe, and the thermostat housing.
Solved that by turning the 'stat housing through 180' and welding a bend in the coolant pipe- will probably have to add a de-gas line to the stat housing in the future.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2008-03-2015%2017%2057%2004_zpssotzs26c.jpg)
And the up-side down 'stat:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2036%2052_zpstmlojl37.jpg)
With that kind of done, I could get on with installing the cooling pack, as nothing can be left alone on this car, I wanted to tweak things slightly, continuous improvement and all that (also known as compulsive meddling).
So, few bits to consider for front end minor re-hash:
- Get rid of old bumper bar, most G40 owners with big intercoolers have hacked these to death, and they serve no purpose in a crash
- Make the front bumper easily removable (was on two 10mm bolts) for easy loading on the trailer
- Move the IC closer to the bumper, allowing ducting and a more efficient air path
- Move radiator forward allowing more space for alternative downpipe routing if required
- Make it all look race spec etc.
First up, sack the old bits off, and make some new end plates from 5mm sheet:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2013-03-2015%2021%2037%2038_zpsgwcwzwsq.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2013-03-2015%2021%2037%2028_zps0dc78m8i.jpg)
I'll make these slightly smaller and slighter in due course, then get a piece of CDS cut to length and bent:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2036%2043_zpsrdva4guc.jpg)
Plug #1 : http://www.tube-bender.co.uk/
Tom who runs Tube Bender was a very nice chap, and affordable, also had the bonus of being a few miles away :)
After that I fitted the intercooler up, and tweaked its position:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2036%2026_zps9ukyqapk.jpg)
The slight angle allows it to sit nicely against the bumper, speaking of the bumper this was then hacked to bits, holes drilled for catches, and bits cut out to shape around the IC:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2035%2055_zpswukh6fiw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2036%2001_zpsqtstocza.jpg)
And the semi-finished product:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2034%2055_zpswi2fxksi.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2018-03-2015%2021%2035%2014_zps816b0q4z.jpg)
Shut lines nee a slight tweak, but it slides on and off like a good 'un, so next bits are welding top tabs on for the IC and radiator supports, then boost hoses and coolant pipe routing.
I've also been busy with drive shaft manufacture and have chosen Elite in Stoke to make them: http://www.eliteracingtransmissions.com/ not cheap, but I don't want to buy twice.
Also had several e-mail exchanges with Gordon from Ringspann, who was very helpful - unfortunately bespoke cables are far too expensive, so I've used these guys: http://www.cable-tec.co.uk/ to alter some standard Mk4 Golf cables to length, I'll post results when done.
Cheers
Pete
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We use cable-tec for stuff at work, decent guys. You wont have a problem there. I should of mentioned them - didn't think.
It's looking awesome Pete - Standard.
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i think that biatch is asking for some ITB'S!!!
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So, finished off the bumper bar and lower radiator/IC support bar.
First up, top mounts for the radiator:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2008%2026_zpswhprl45x.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2010%2052_zps6mljgthv.jpg)
Then bottom mounts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2009%2026_zps0umjeoxd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2008%2044_zpszxrmthme.jpg)
Now the rad and IC have a fairly consistent air gap between them, I've moved them much further forward to previously, hopefully the bumper aperture will direct more air over them both.
Finished (less paint) bars:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2011%2017_zps13gbzhy7.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2011%2032_zpsk0vnn7wt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2011%2037_zps3dy6hzgc.jpg)
And with the bumper fitted up - note top radiator supports ensure a good fit against them slam panel:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2026-03-2015%2020%2012%2030_zpscg8tcoph.jpg)
Cables on their way, and some clutch bits from TPS, all for now!
Cheers
Pete
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So, been busy recently- the engine bay welding is now complete, and my to-do list is slightly shorter:
Coolant Pipes
Fit & make sump
Fit crank pulley end plate
Fit turbo
Downpipe Modification
Rear Wheel Stud
Brake line Tabs weld on
Vactan / Chassis leg rust protection
Oil Cooler Brackets (oil filter)
Starter Motor Wiring
Earth Cable
New Adapter Plate
Oil Pump Welding
Alternator Mounting
Repair Rear Exhaust Hanger
Now I've got gear shift cables that work I mocked everything up and adjusted accordingly. Very easy to setup compared to the Polo rod linkage, one of the selector ends fouled my engine mount slightly, so I modified that:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-04-2015%2019%2028%2019_zpsmzvqe8ze.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-04-2015%2019%2026%2048_zpsqgh0vsg4.jpg)
I then gave the bumper bar and intercooler/radiator bar a lick of paint:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-04-2015%2019%2025%2048_zpsnwdgxx5o.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-04-2015%2019%2026%2007_zpswa0fav5n.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-04-2015%2019%2028%2012_zpsrjfjte89.jpg)
After that it was time to move my attention to the OSF chassis leg, the crank pulley requires more clearance, and I need to rear mount the alternator and run the belt here. Removing the front ARB bracket wasn't an option as I wanted to maintain original suspension pickup locations. So, out with the grinder:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-04-2015%2015%2011%2045_zpsmlc4hdz5.jpg)
Usual drill, cut away what isn't required, plate with 3mm steel and stick it together with some weld. I may gusset up the chassis leg still, undecided yet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2008-04-2015%2021%2005%2046_zpsisxgg4ji.jpg)
Then back to the NSF leg, made clearance holes and welded studs in for the coil mount:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-04-2015%2015%2011%2050_zpsokcub6ui.jpg)
Few more bits were done after this, but left it looking fairly complete:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2008-04-2015%2021%2005%2033_zpsxmjdx2fn.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2008-04-2015%2021%2005%2040_zpszeaqgfke.jpg)
So, chuck the frame back on and push it outside for a wash:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-04-2015%2016%2021%2050_zpsb6o0th2q.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-04-2015%2016%2022%2017_zpsrrigmnbu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-04-2015%2016%2022%2010_zpskwvdgzkm.jpg)
And after that a few tweaks to the position of the bumper bar:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-04-2015%2017%2018%2028_zpsgkletakf.jpg)
The bumper is sitting better than it ever did stock:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-04-2015%2017%2020%2016_zpsowriot8q.jpg)
All for now, cheers
Pete
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I think that the lack of reactions is just because people are speechless. ;D
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This is so much work! So many things to fabricate to the point that people can't relate. Sure it's amazing and probably the best way to go about it if you are in for reliability and performance but it has gone to the point where the front end is no longer a G40. And since this car has gone to that point to become that good, people are being turned off by the fact it takes so much work and effort to take it to that stage. We all love the G40 and we all want 200+hp but if this is what it takes, well it's just too much! I know this is for track use only but I bet you could fit the PY engine with the 1,8t gearbox on a newer VW chassis without that much work and have a nice track car. Just saying!
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As far as I am concerned, it's porn.
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Those chassis legs are absolute works of art. So So good!
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I think that the lack of reactions is just because people are speechless. ;D
I dont comment because I'm so jealous.
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I think you may have voided any warranty the subframe had :)
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This car just gets better and better.
The insane fabrication and work gone into this just shows you can do something different IF you know what your doing! Where as am just a plumber so i think al stick to the normal mods lol
Keep up the good work mate
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Cheers all- final push now, getting married in 5 weeks, and really want it as my wedding car. Got a trackday booked a few weeks after that too...
My first problem was the flywheel/starter interface. I had made a few assumptions:
- Polo crank palm geometry was the same as a Golf in relation to the block/gearbox mounting face
- Added an adapter plate into the mix (moving gearbox 10mm further from the crank palm)
- Starter and clutch engagement would be fine :-X
So, once mocked up the starter did not have enough throw to engage, it was 12mm short (about the thickness of that adapter plate then...!)
With that in mind I was concerned about needing a bespoke flywheel- I've tried to retain OEM or off the shelf parts as much as possible. Handy for spares in the future, and often alternatives are available, such as engine mounts, with can be swapped for softer items should they be required.
Whilst doing some internet geeking, I came across Epytec, a German company- who offered a very light G60 esque flywheel, and an adapter ring (14mm) for a 02M conversion whilst maintaining the lighter fly I believe. Anyway, parts duly ordered, CAD station shutdown, and brews consumed.
Parts arrived:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2006-05-2015%2017%2050%2027_zpsu2guumkn.jpg)
So, onto the scales with you lot:
Polo G40 PY Lightened flywheel:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2044%2027_zpsm1ibuhwa.jpg)
Polo G40 Helix Paddle Clutch:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2044%2051_zpsz5kfa6vx.jpg)
Golf G60 Lightened Flywheel:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2047%2020_zpsc8r75gfq.jpg)
Golf VR6 Clutch:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2046%2049_zpsawv242gs.jpg)
EPYTEC Golf G60 Flywheel:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2048%2026_zpsqr3ygvs3.jpg)
So, totals look like this:
Polo G40 Lightened Flywheel & Helix Clutch: 8.38kg
Golf G60 Lightened Flywheel & VR6 Clutch: 13.37kg
EPYTEC Flywheel & VR6 Clutch: 9.87kg
So 1490g on the mass of flywheel/clutch - which is still lighter than a stock G40 setup I believe, inertia clearly different as Golf components are larger. But for now, I'm happy it's ballpark. Engine response and characteristics shouldn't change drastically.
I have also cracked on and painted the bay with Halfrauds paint and 2k lacquer, although I think I've sprayed the car in too low an ambient, the lacquer hasn't gone off properly and can be marred easily. No biggie, but frustrating.
I also cut and shut the downpipe and exhaust to accommodate the new engine angle, this took a full day (10hrs) of mocking up, tacking, removing, and then finally fully welding. My stainless MIG isn't pretty, but it'll be covered in exhaust wrap. Also remade the rear hanger, so that's another few big jobs off the list.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2022%2010%2036_zps28xbrd9n.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2022%2011%2013_zps1eqbhrbj.jpg)
And for me the most satisfying part, bolting things on that aren't designed for a Polo, win!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2021%2054%2058_zpsnf0mst6r.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2007-05-2015%2022%2009%2026_zps5sw9p784.jpg)
Cheers
Pete
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New alternator time- old one is too large to mount under the inlet manifold, so I ordered a Brise 60A one, it's a little lighter too, goes some way to offsetting the 02J/085 weight gain.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2010%2040%2001_zpsofllxwvk.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2010%2039%2041_zpszyfc5hi0.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2010%2039%2011_zpsrargcwtu.jpg)
And then knocked up a bracket out of L-section, mounts off some redundant holes on the back of the block. Need to get the crank pulley back from a friend so I can work out where to put the tension arm. It *just* clears the steering arm ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2015%2036%2033_zpsqkuacuio.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2015%2036%2025_zpsyylk0f0h.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2010-05-2015%2015%2036%2014_zpslpuuwbz5.jpg)
Cheers
Pete
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So, got everything bolted together today, and the golf starter to turn the polo engine over, result! Need 2mm removing from the flywheel spacer, but that can be done this week. Full steam ahead!
Alternator now finished, just need a longer belt and job's a good 'un ;D
My new shiny bottom pulley, big thanks to my mate Jake who knocked this up after work, clever chap!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2016-05-2015%2014%2016%2004_zps7l1fzxtu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2016-05-2015%2014%2016%2008_zpswpzgdoxh.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2016-05-2015%2014%2015%2041_zpsgfefhyhc.jpg)
I then added a couple of rose joints and piece of threaded bar to tension the belt with:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2016-05-2015%2016%2052%2056_zps9qdqugl7.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2016-05-2015%2016%2053%2005_zpsox4hh5hj.jpg)
Lots of small jobs to now complete, hopefully this will be the last time the engine is in/out for a few weeks.
I've also had cut another adapter plate with more clearance, and drilled that this morning, all fitted fine, just waiting for some fresh fastners to arrive, and then it can get built back up properly.
Cheers
Pete
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So, a busy weekend of car related activities, first job was to lower the daily!
Set of KW Inox V2 coilovers:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/Photo%2020-10-2014%2019%2006%2005_zpsnxtlkstf.jpg)
And one lowered Audi:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/384D4137-6CAF-4B88-BA3C-124DC51F0789_zpsjeeylgwb.jpg)
However, it's settled a fair bit, so needs raising up again.
On to the real stuff, new adapter plate and engine/gearbox mating!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/EC231D41-0D8E-4BF2-B77F-3B689341CD2E_zpslsntdost.jpg)
Larger hole for sump/end plate clearance:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/2D913BC4-02E3-41CC-9F98-D0C7C0D2D2CE_zps5nc3jlru.jpg)
Sambo's thread about flywheel bolts was very timely, I ordered some Toureg Diesel bolts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/BA630602-AF59-4017-8005-3D8DB80F366C_zpsn2h5xdtf.jpg)
The adapter plate between the crank palm and flywheel had 2mm turned off it (thanks Jake) standard runout was 7microns, post machining was 10, so happy with that.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/77618D4B-3244-490B-AD6A-462A154F09FF_zpsbph94so5.jpg)
Next up the VR6 Sachs clutch, stock for now, will probably upgrade to an organic clutch when I go hydraulic MC in the future:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/355ED064-341D-4C1F-BD2C-3C24674938E4_zpszg0mlux3.jpg)
Now time t get jiggy with the engine crane, a twisty chair, and some grunt, bit of spit and they're bolted up nicely:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/A86397C5-1A8B-4E09-AEFB-45EA719782F7_zpsf7cy4bsz.jpg)
Then plop it in the bay, it went in from the top, with a little paint damage, and several swears. Would be easier with two people for sure!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/D8E694BB-E35A-4BC2-94B4-36E89A3765FD_zpsfipslxc8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/33792EE8-2D82-4505-8881-95E07F4FD6BA_zpsxkvx6ewa.jpg)
It's in! The Bastard.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/0917B8CD-FD4E-47CA-9645-C4616AFC1FB2_zps1yqsgrmz.jpg)
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top stuff! :)
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Tick........tock.
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this build just gets better! brilliant stuff yoof.
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Staggering stuff this car.
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Really great to see some 1st class fab on this! Be good to see it in action!
Ref: the TeamGuru Derby! Had no idea you had it? Still fitted with the KR engine or was it given a motorcycle engine (saw a youtube vid of Mathers driving one)?
How's your Uni project Mk1 Polo Berg Cup doing? Still going strong?
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Tick........tock.
Done.
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11391294_10155652144470191_2284585553583608786_n.jpg?oh=c8eb2fa7099138a0f2c6bb8d9d2ebd5e&oe=560AF41D)
:D
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I never doubted you for a second! ;)
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Really great to see some 1st class fab on this! Be good to see it in action!
Ref: the TeamGuru Derby! Had no idea you had it? Still fitted with the KR engine or was it given a motorcycle engine (saw a youtube vid of Mathers driving one)?
How's your Uni project Mk1 Polo Berg Cup doing? Still going strong?
The Mk1 got sold to Kustom on here - he's got a build thread up.
We had the Derby for a bit, tarted it up a lot and now it's been sold to someone who will use it in the VWDRC - possibly with a blown VR6 in it. Still had a 9A when we had it, though it got a KR cam upgrade and a remap of the G60 Digifant more suited to n/a use than the SNS Stage5 G60 map it originally had!!
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8)
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Few little jobs left to do, bleed the brakes, realign a few clips and re route the clutch cable.
MOT booked for Thursday morning :-\
Few more pics:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/DF915912-0551-411D-AF2F-2A7E0E829732_zps7w20rvld.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/825650A2-0F2D-4792-852B-3A3C44BE610A_zpsxwjww4el.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/97F74AD2-4E2C-472A-875D-04239D0CC371_zpsvavil0ry.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/8D590E03-9DC9-4CE9-A035-D0B291D73B94_zpsahzmrayl.jpg)
List of jobs to do after wedding and honeymoon, pre-trackday. But I've got most of July to sort them ;D
Drove it a short distance yesterday, shift tower has play in it, so will look at replacing it before the trackday. Have a vibration from the powertrain to chassis which I'll work out and tweak. Other than that, so far so good.
Cheers
Pete
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/07A91C39-A86E-4596-AADD-D2E79EDBB3F5_zpsckwmoxjr.jpg)
Fresh MOT this morning, no advisories but always nice to get it up on a ramp and dig around underneath... and plan what to do next!
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Brilliant!!
You guys going to be able to make Polo Social?? :)
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I'll be on honeymoon mate- not sure about Andy
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I can't make the Polo Show/Social thingy either unfortunately!
I'm sure the MOT man loved the fact that someone had such faith in the road-worthiness of their car that it arrived on a trailer...
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This must be the ultimate polo, loving your audi estates reg too!
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I can't make the Polo Show/Social thingy either unfortunately!
I'm sure the MOT man loved the fact that someone had such faith in the road-worthiness of their car that it arrived on a trailer...
Pah- I wanted to make sure it at least got to the MOT man!
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This must be the ultimate polo, loving your audi estates reg too!
'Reppin in my daily ;) ;D
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Is it ready for its close up? ;)
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Hope this means coverage ^^ :D
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I am curious about the driveshafts. How did you go about it? Custom, G40 or from some other model? You don't mention it at all. I already know that original G40 ones probably wouldn't take the power and snap.
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It's described further back in the thread, they're bespoke, using a 100mm Mk2/3 Golf inner and a Mk1 GTi Outer ;)
Alex - Yes at some point! I've been giving the paint some love tonight, it's fairly hanging!
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Back from holiday, car made it to the wedding ;D
Many horsepowers here (1812bhp) and many litres (18)
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11403265_10153382983959629_4976409889078896002_n.jpg?oh=06f3af9a3c02d5e84d52aa29f25bbd61&oe=561DD8F3)
Updates to come soon- 02J so far holding up, hits the limiter in 5th fairly quickly (circa 135mph) have to do some tweaks before shakedown at Blyton Park on the 25th July.
Cheers
Pete
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Congrats, audi looks like it may keep up...just. Blyton will be a hoot
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Aye Blyton should be good.
Audi is quicker than the Polo (currently) >:(
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So, Blyton Park with Club Polo was last weekend, I was using this as a shakedown for the Polo. Having not driven it on track for a few years, and spending the last 18months grafting an 02J onto the little 1.3, I had high hopes, and wasn't disappointed!
The 02J box I'm currently using has an open diff, so I knew the tighter 2nd gear corners would be difficult, but this didn't stop me having fun ;D
So, loaded the car up on Friday night- got to Blyton early doors on Saturday and unloaded. The trackday was with MOT, who are always a friendly bunch, good briefing, and out for the sighting laps. Format would be OPL all day, with the outer circuit run in the morning, and the eastern circuit run in the afternoon. Tidy.
First (and only) problem of the day was the rubber seal on the fuel filler cap had perished slightly. The drain for this helpfully deposits any excess fuel onto your offside rear tyre, cheers. I'm no driving god, but a dab of oppo was followed by a black flag to tell me what I already knew... back in the pits some modification with a pair of pliars, a small bit of blue roll, and job's a good'un! It would be the only fix I had to do all day - well chuffed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11822583_10153554484251940_1592113284972777385_n_zpseaf1gebl.jpg)
So, some general pics from the day:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11794211_923015747736471_666429261744198868_o_zps8vnnxd67.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11017186_923172164387496_3220976890427240548_o_zpswe8hhi5u.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11705823_923172651054114_8877303030014489677_o_zpshvfqoscw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/10988271_923172247720821_5965820974525121644_o_zpsuuvvilqu.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11782305_923015777736468_2851726350507132534_o_zpsqf3q2we8.jpg)
And an old colleague, and friend was there in his AX, with a 1.6 16v PSA engine with Saxo Cup Car Suspension (Leda from memory). A well prepared car, and well driven. This is always my benchmark and target, to be quicker. Often my driving style when we're both on track, goes from 'not very smooth' to 'f'in hell, have you got parkinsons...?' but we have fun!
Unfortunately we didn't get on track at the same time on the outer circuit, but did on the Eastern, I struggled with the first section, all 2nd gear for the polo, and all wheelspin. The AX ran rings around me here, and I'd spend the rest of the lap (straights!) catching up.
A few things I got feedback on:
- Marc (AX) is a hero on the brakes, I am not.... push pedal harder, and believe in the slicks
- Polo bounces/unsettles mid-corner
- Polo leans like a good un.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11782324_923172687720777_8607000020973184918_o_zpsarwp5xgj.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11234880_923172797720766_4387186066773423911_o_zpstgilwuiz.jpg)
The leaning can be seen here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/11731593_923015781069801_2698485202356395631_o_zpsqkt8skus.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/lean_1_zpsv0jlh4ql.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/Young_Un/lean_2_zps2iostisu.jpg)
So, my suspension setup is currently G40 Cup Car, a Sachs, fixed damper and standard 2.25" coilovers spring. A rate of 275lb front and 165lb rear. Unlike the Cup Car, I don’t run a front ARB- I also have a wider track, larger slicks, and the front is probably heavier. So I’ve increased the front and rear rates fairly significantly, hoping that I can continue to use the current dampers I have. Failing that I’ll look into modifying a Mk1 Golf coilover kit.
That aside, I’ve got a list of things to do before the next event, and look forward to being able to develop the car further, now I’ve hopefully solved the driveline reliability issues that plagued me with an 085 box.
Cheers
Pete
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Photo's are looking nice, can't wait to have mine back on the road/track by seeying these. ;)
About the leaning, you are thinking in the direction of stiffer spring rates, but putting back the ARB is not an option? Could this be a shortcoming of the stage 3 subframe? Just interested in your thoughts. ;)
About the gearbox conversion, earlier in the thread you mention that because of tilting the engine, you need to modify the oil pickup, the intake and the exhaust. Maby I missed it, but I didn't see anything about it in your thread anymore, did you go through with these modifications, of wasn't is neccesary anymore, or do you just don't want to make everything public about this modification? ;D
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Yes, I've already ordered stiffer springs ;)
If the spring rate is correct, and the damper matched, an ARB has little relevance on track. For road use (not what the subframes are sold for ;) ) this can cause an issue, as the pay off between ride comfort with a stiff enough spring to combat roll, on one which doesn’t jar your back, is difficult to achieve. Andy has put significant time/effort into playing about with spring rates, ride heights, geometry and is now trying a fixed spring kit.
That said, we do have a ‘stage 4’ Frame, which allows a standard Polo ARB to be fitted, along with the normal compression struts. Wheel clearance will be an issue, and cost will be prohibitive for most- Andy will be testing this though once he’s moved house.
Nothing is secret about my car :) :) There is no advantage to it being so, although some people have hidden builds over the years, preferring to vacuum information from those who share it, we’re not in F1, and quite frankly if someone copies something I do, I’ll take it as a compliment, and make sure I’ve done it better :D
Regarding oil pickup - further back in my thread I've said it wasn't required due to an angle change of only 6' to a stock installation, the exhaust was modified because of this, but the oil pickup remains stock.
This seems to be sufficient, as Blyton proved that the buzzer went off in the usual locations, meaning over winter my baffled sump/windage tray will be fitted.
Glad you like it, look forward to seeing yours out on track in the future,
Cheers
Pete
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Nice one kidda, shame I missed it. Let me know when you are off out to play again.
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Sam- I've booked the following:
14th Evening Session - Rockingham International
6th Sept - Club GTi @ Curby
Want to do either Oulton or Donnington before the end of the year too, but current prices are stupid, maybe October time?
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Nice one. Donny is always daft.
I havent got anything to come on track with yet but might have by October.
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If you are still looking for a lotus Sam, a lad at my work worked for a lotus race team for a while. Knows his stuff about s1's s2's exige and all the relevant race mods etc for the lotus cup
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Done any more investigation on the suspension?
From my experience it seems your car sits a bit high at the rear, the car will be alot more settled when brakeing and does not transfer all the weight to the front if it is lower.
When it comes to tyres, I have had problems getting max out of used racing slicks, even when I track the temeratures, pressure and wheel alignement cloesly. I have tested with both r888 and a048 in 175 and 185/60-13s liking the soft 048s the best. The next I will test is toyo in 225/45-13s on 8"s to find the last seconds before we add more power.
What camber values are you running f/r?
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oh bloody hell, haven't seen this for a while. Looks nice! out of interest, how have you widened your front end? I used spacers..
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Low offset wheels, adjustable TCA/compression strut :)
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Tinkering is continuing on the Polo, a few rust issues to sort on the floor pan, and I'd like to tidy up the interior too. Have some plans with the fuel tank/exhaust, and as usual the quest to save weight continues :)
First up was a smaller fuel tank:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5833/22843240590_d8505018cd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ANzzzG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ANzzzG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/588/23149430732_f6a90c5736_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BgCTf5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/BgCTf5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
It's approximately 15 litres - should help fuel starvation on long right-hand corners, and frees up some room so I can move the exhaust forward of the rear axle.
The main reason for the strip was to repair the battery tray, and stop the pedal box flexing in that area. Leaking bulkhead plays havoc with old stitch welding :-(
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5794/23859595150_36d9e174ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CmoEob)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CmoEob) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With a fair amount of work being done on the floor, I decided to make a spit - a friend was making one for his rally car too, so a material order was placed and duly delivered.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1474/24047182982_0da3ac913a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CCY6H9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CCY6H9) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After some tea, grinding, welding, and a few laser cut pieces, it was ready:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/24129163996_4770804656_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CLdgNU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CLdgNU) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1615/24047181702_cd1046e964_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CCY6k5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CCY6k5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Which made stripping underseal far easier!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5799/23787462239_42b892d221_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cf1XMi)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Cf1XMi) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Subframe left in at the front, to assist keeping it rigid on the spit:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5794/23527052264_3f597880ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BR1hY9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/BR1hY9) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Inside I've begun stripping the underseal on the existing stitch welding, and I'll prepare some other seams for welding, I've also started removing brackets that aren't required, and generally tidy things up a little.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/24047171182_aa02acf554_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CCY3cG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CCY3cG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Spanish steel isn't too forgiving when using a spot weld drill... hence a few 'b****cks' moments where there are some holes! Nothing a welder can't solve.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5714/24072646401_fb79b8989f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CFdB6B)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CFdB6B) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Weapons of choice for the next few months!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5636/24155246065_cde231da7b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CNvX6K)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CNvX6K) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'm planning on an engine update too, and making the most of the 02J - so looking into some bigger tyres, and some supporting mods to go with them.
Cheers
Pete
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Looking forward to the updates. :)
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well you've never been one to do things by half yoof! you reckon you'll be at any track days this year then?
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well you've never been one to do things by half yoof! you reckon you'll be at any track days this year then?
Yeah! Got two options, Volvo or R26... ;D
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do you have any spare gearboxes for the renault?
volvo is probably a better bet, indestructible.
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No spare boxes... yet!
Some slow progress, will clean it up this weekend.
~ 9kg removed in underseal, redundant brackets and general dirt!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1521/23754799044_16cf5ed103_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cc8y9L)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Cc8y9L) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
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Ace work chap! Where have you fixed to the chassis at the rear with your roll over jig?
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Cheers! I fixed it on the rear panel, near the lights there's two M8 holes already.
I'd only want to do this if it was a shell mind, the alternative was to weld something temp into the roll cage. Kiz opened up the rear chassis legs, which is a good shout, but it's part of the rust that I need to repair.
Shell is light enough you can pick it up either end, I'm no Arnold, so it's not that heavy ;D
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Many hours spent to get the remaining sealant/rust/paint off the floor, can start welding next week I think.
Pushed outside for a good blow down:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1572/24125422590_d404eb5eda_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CKT6BU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CKT6BU) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1664/24421041225_bbe175c90f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Dd1dJV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Dd1dJV) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then back in the garage to have the remaining paint removed:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1716/24587203735_28b5ffdc38_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DsFR4M)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DsFR4M) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Some of the nastier pieces:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1607/23959067584_b92866bc60_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cvbu59)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Cvbu59) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Left me with this:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1515/24478898482_768b8c5516_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Di7KFQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Di7KFQ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1664/24587203175_7728b51db3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DsFQU8)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DsFQU8) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Be nice to start adding bits back after 3 weeks of removing them!
Cheers
Pete
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Completed a good portion of the stitch welding now, utter pain with the cavity wax, despite a hot air gun and blow torch for hours, it still comes flowing when you start to weld...!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/24600317391_da70ee994c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4ii)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4ii) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Penetration shots:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1713/24600317201_108850d6e4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4f2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4f2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1478/24667636796_b0450c70cb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DzN61G)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DzN61G) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1517/24326162779_f342ed653f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/D4BWFD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/D4BWFD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Ground down some of the less beautiful welds, and dressed all others so they're smooth.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1445/24693835135_febbcd15ed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DC7mSc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DC7mSc) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/24576067702_45b7b31db6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DrGLHd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DrGLHd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then started on the interior, not much to do here, only a few seams (previously did all the others when cage was fitted):
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/24600317041_4c1f34700d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4cg)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DtR4cg) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Got to flip it back over to do the other side, then make some repair panels for the crusty chassis leg, and sills. I've also got a load of laser cut plates coming to weld in over redundant holes, saves me cutting individual shapes out.
My plan is to etch prime the underside, I'm not done with the fabrication, but I can weld through the etch, and should offer some rust protection whilst it's bare metal.
All for now!
Cheers
Pete
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Last week or so has been spent cutting out rust, welding in new steel, and plugging holes. Not very exciting, I'll be glad when it's finished.
Started with some laser cut bits:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1518/24688879610_cc16e6f899_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DBEXL7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DBEXL7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
These were to cover various different holes, some factory, others done by myself over the years of bolting many different things to the floor!
Welded both inside and out so there's no path for water to enter, etch primed before welding, which isn't as clean as welding to fresh steel, but hopefully provides some corrosion protection:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1530/24891067571_7bab1a4ab1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DVxecr)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DVxecr) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After that a good wire brush down, panel wipe, and spray with etch prime:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1639/24891070251_a17b712edd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DVxeZD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DVxeZD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The panel on the right of the picture above, is the OSR floorpan. I twatted a barrier at Oulton Park a good few years back, the 'bodyshop' who repaired it at the time, decided the bent floor was best left and undersealed over... chassis leg had subsequently rusted as had the floorpan. The rear towing eye mounts here, so I've replaced both the floor and chassis leg with Zintec, and will buy a bolt on towing eye.
Additional work, but I want the chassis to be as rust free and solid as possible. Fuel Pump wiring hole plated over too as the pumps will be mounted on the tank.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1659/24866393622_449e4f7155_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DTmLuw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DTmLuw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And finally the spare wheel well, several rust scabs that i'll be cutting out and welding fresh steel in, I need to decide if I use a steel panel or a carbon fibre one.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1660/24984385825_65162c6507_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E4MvsR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/E4MvsR) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Fairly boring update, next one might have shiney bits in it... maybe.
Cheers
Pete
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No more heating?
And does the wheel well add structural strength? If so, how are you going to handle that with a carbon fibre plate?
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Correct- Heated screen going in ;)
Wheel well is an interesting one, something I'm still working out. The area is clearly behind the rear axle pickup points, and the body is well tied together around the rear axle mounts (roll cage helps too).
Having been crashed into in a Mk3 Polo, the wheel well did nothing (crushed the spare wheel), and previously with a 2mm steel plate when I hit the barrier at Oulton, I still bent the floor.
Guess I'm saying I'm not convinced a 1mm steel plate offers any benefits over carbon fibre, it does mean I can put jerry cans etc ontop of it though.
If you want to see examples of cars without anything behind the rear axle, many Auto Test competitors literally lop the back of the car off (roof and all), whilst their cornering speeds aren't as high as a circuit car, they clearly maintain enough body rigidity to have consistent handling characteristics:
(http://ukga.com/images/content/image35487.jpg)
Slightly extreme example granted!
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So, been a while since I updated this, boot floor is now almost done, just needs a plate putting in place, but the hole is useful for access currently.
Chopped the rust out and welded fresh steel in (the laser cut plates):
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1577/25113721649_f332451772_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EgdouR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EgdouR) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then once I'd done that half a dozen times, it was looking a little better:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1581/25455131486_1b66671d6e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EMocKm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EMocKm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The towing eye to chassis leg was all replaced, rather than re-make the steel U-clamp I opted for a JDM/racecar strap, so made a mount:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1514/25388409651_765688f2fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EFueET)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EFueET) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then a lick of etch prime, and welded the remainder of the rear panel back on:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1494/25362827522_d3b6e544b8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EDe7ZG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EDe7ZG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After that I needed to set the rotisserie bob on level:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1563/25455126856_519d112005_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EMobnw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EMobnw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Decided a while back I wanted to put some pukka sill stands in, makes working on the underside much easier. Something like this:
(http://www.motorsport-sales.com/images/1792688023_fee5525e6d_b%20-%20Copy.jpg)
So, some CDS ordered for the female recievers mounted in the sills, I can also make the stands out of this, will order some bar at some point to make the pins from.
Decided to use the roll cage feet. Not FIA/MSA approved I know, but this is by far the strongest/neatest solution. It's a pain to drill straight, but taking time (about 3 hours) and lots of measurements gave a good result:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1667/25113717449_bd8a8b120a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Egdnfr)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Egdnfr) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Outside (small hole is from the side skirt):
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1630/24850706244_c59b813b02_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DRYnbu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DRYnbu) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Poking through:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/24850711814_aff9fe4342_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DRYoQw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DRYoQw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I've left them a little long, as I'm going to make a side skirt incorporating the arches/floor. I'll take 0.5' as a result!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1690/24850702914_6c37cab055_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DRYmc5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DRYmc5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Have to make some 3mm plates, plate the tube, then weld it all up. Oh and do it another 3 times...
Cheers
Pete
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Love the updates!! :)
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Awesome work Yoof! Glad I've had a browse!
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I wanted to ask this for a while, but always forgot to type it out. But did you put your car on the scales before and after the gearbox conversion for comparison in weight increase and weight distribution?
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Yes, I've got the figures somewhere...
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Put on 25kg with the box, most will be NSF
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Finished the off-side sill mounts now, there's 3' difference total between them, and a 1.5mm height difference. Only noticeable on a perfectly flat surface (assuming I can make the sill stands exactly the same height!)
Anyway, first job was to panel wipe the parts and etch prime inside the sill:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1704/25282218153_9d82cd2ca2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6YCZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6YCZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I made a blank for the end of the female part, so no crud can get in:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1686/25790153672_c04aa3ae3a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FhZhaW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FhZhaW) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Slot her in the hole:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1510/25610356570_33a26c76fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F26LKU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F26LKU) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then weld it up:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1510/25815986461_c6a0ff677c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FkgFmR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FkgFmR) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And etch prime:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1506/25282221353_1e65104f90_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6ZAa)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6ZAa) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The interior section will be welded when I flip the car over:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1516/25282209913_5f32e57056_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6WbV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Ew6WbV) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And some measuring to check my handy work:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1588/25910898505_6edb89b363_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FtE8pp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FtE8pp) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Height difference from sill face to underside of receiver is 1.5mm front to rear
Then check the car is level front to rear:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1520/25885030146_ae7c9154b6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FrnxDd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FrnxDd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And with a piece of L-section sitting on the top of both sill receivers:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1683/25790142162_355a87555f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FhZdKu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FhZdKu) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
That'll do pig!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1621/25790147372_35434221cb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FhZfij)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FhZfij) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I've left them long currently, as I've not made the side skirts yet, I expect to chop 40mm or so off them.
Just got to do the other side now, and make sure the heights are consistent.
Cheers
Pete
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Any progress/updates soon? ;) I have another question about your gearbox modification. Have you also considered the Salzmann conversion? Since he offers ready to weld in panel parts with TUV approval. If you did, why did you decide against it? Also, did you do calculations to your custom work, or is it a case of making it strong enough?
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TuV not applicable in the UK - so why pay £1k+ for something I can make myself ;)
I also wanted to keep the original suspension mounting points, the Salzmann conversion does not.
Regarding calculations - experience and a best guess. My expertise doesn't lie in chassis FEA :o
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TUV is not applicable in the Netherlands either, but it does mean that it should be a decent kit. Thanks for replying though, your thread has been really helpfull for me on deciding which way to go.
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So, sill receivers are all complete, taken a fair old while, but should make working on the car easier, I'll build the stands in due course.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1659/26192673362_a707eb9088_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FUyifA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FUyifA) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Tubes capped off internally, and then etchprimed:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1523/25680264694_1e8ffd36c8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F8h51o)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F8h51o) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then etch prime the inner sill, plate, and everything else:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1547/26259168806_42d0a859d6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G1r72L)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G1r72L) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then time for welding:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1627/26218857521_c937f747f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FWSuTB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FWSuTB) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1692/25680262584_78e43ee090_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F8h4o1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F8h4o1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Whilst working on the rear of the car, the grinder caught the arch... which I duly found out was actually filler. Long story short, I'd tacked the arches together before sending it to the bodyshop (post Oulton) and asked them to finish tubbing them off an tidy it up. That got interpreted to stick filler in all the gaps and paint it.
No pictures of that as it looked utter gash, suffice to say its a long old job, but if it's worth doing, DIY!
Offside rear:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1614/26012246590_fdb8924724_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FCByEb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FCByEb) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Nearside rear before etch prime:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1546/25680265834_c504ab62a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F8h5m3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F8h5m3) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1463/25682381993_1e2f40cf78_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F8sVpx)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F8sVpx) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I finished off last night by removing some crusty sections of the sill, and straightening it out. As its going to have a false floor, I’ll have to extend the jacking points through this so I don’t have to take the floor off for jacks/ramps.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1458/25682381553_157b04fcf0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F8sVgX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/F8sVgX) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Also picked up a few bits for the update, EPAS column and some new rear brakes, nowt too exciting yet!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1555/26012248540_35f875fa66_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FCBzeN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FCBzeN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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Epas sounds like it would be a nice addition. Crackin!
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Underside now in primer :)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1704/26218484582_dc10d19d95_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FWQA2C)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FWQA2C) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1630/26244648351_11cccabe97_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZ9FB6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FZ9FB6) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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So, the last few weeks I've not spent much time on the car, but have now finished removing the old harness mounting points, and fitting new ones.
Why? Well the old harness pickup points, weren't in line with the new manufacturers instructions (Schroth), and I wanted to lower the passenger seat rails and generally tidy things up.
So, better to do it on it's side when access is easy!
First up some measuring, and drawing out what I could achieve with my current driving position:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/26343715053_880380d416_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UqFF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8UqFF) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7771/26914750476_90de9fd16f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H1n8C1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/H1n8C1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'm slightly out of Schroth's guidelines on the lap and crotch (by 2' and 3' respectively), but this is the best I can do with the space (short of cutting the tunnel up). My measurement error is probably that much anyway!
Ordered some ready made FIA spec plates 7/16th for the lap, ended up making my own for the crotch, as the floor is to thin, I made this plate larger than the sum of two individuals (6-point harness so 2 crotch points), also boxed the inner lap belt mounts in.
Usual process, bit of cardboard, cut the steel, tack together, etch prime the rear, weld it up, then paint:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7746/26343714283_630c107ed0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Uqsp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8Uqsp) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7715/26342876264_a4188e6f22_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Q8kN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8Q8kN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7484/26914746956_a1552f9299_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H1n7zj)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/H1n7zj) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/26343716373_efc0ab7d13_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Ur5r)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8Ur5r) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7644/26343715743_6932bb7810_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UqTz)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8UqTz) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7472/26854027232_9f163730df_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GUZUHw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GUZUHw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/26914749566_7867a959ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H1n8mj)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/H1n8mj) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7592/26914748206_0ea8de8929_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H1n7WS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/H1n7WS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And you can see all 8 points here:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/26854026022_3e5ee11751_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GUZUmE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GUZUmE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
That's about it for now, I've been tinkering with a few other bits, like getting some 2008 Seat Ibiza rear brakes to fit a 1991 Polo:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7795/26342882064_287115d0c6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Qa4N)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8Qa4N) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And the new fuel tank:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/26343713003_2c4a2b6260_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Uq5k)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G8Uq5k) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
More on those, next time!
Cheers
Pete
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Those rear brakes are they the 255mm ones?
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232mm, with a solid disc.
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Cut a hole for the ATL Cell, I'll add some steel angle to mount the aluminium box to, and then figure out the in-tank pump setup at a later date.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/26770744340_997828f441_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4BA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4BA) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/26770744950_6d63dde1c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4N7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4N7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Onto the exhaust, handbrake cables, and under-body next ;D
Cheers
Pete
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hi
peter, already follow your project a long time I can tell you a lot of work but every time this best like to see, 5 stars, congratulations.
cheers
paulo
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Thanks Paulo!
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Everyone's favourite build thread
Jim
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Attention to detail is spot on. Wish I could weld. Keep the updates coming
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Cheers gents!
Fuel cell now installed- looks like 4 bits of angle iron (cause it is...) but there's a fair amount of work behind it!
As you can see from the first photo, the panel under the rear seat isn't flat:
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7525/26770744950_6d63dde1c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4N7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GMD4N7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Which means I'd have to break out the year 9 maths book, and get jiggy with some trigonometry.
First though, this arrived:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7305/27195289272_38edd90409_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9Y2N)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9Y2N) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Double bevel model, so compound mitres are possible (used for this job) and I can swap the blade for a stainless one for my exhaust system :)
So, I started with the two easy angles, the front and rear- decided to pop rivet the aluminium case to the steel as I couldn't access the rear for bolts.
Onwards with the marking, centre punching and drilling!
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7332/26685025294_8cf8ffe8e8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GE4Jk1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GE4Jk1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Fairly typical workbench shot...
With that done I moved onto the side which require a compound mitre cut:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7162/27222113801_26565331bc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Htws2F)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Htws2F) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And that ends up looking something like this:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7735/26685978163_501becea2f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GE9BzM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GE9BzM) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
A quick trim of the sharp edges and a zip round with the welder:
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7382/26685022734_9a1da40594_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GE4HyS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GE4HyS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then dropped it in and got my weld on:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7446/27291869545_976a0db5e6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HzFXYV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HzFXYV) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7078/27195238902_d334e298ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9H4m)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9H4m) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And made a plate for the front gap:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7010/27195280842_563b0c65f6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9Vws)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Hr9Vws) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
A lick of etch prime:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7455/27291914785_40b1c02ba5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HzGcqV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HzGcqV) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And then a test fit:
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7324/27291879605_940601a4cb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HzG1Yn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HzG1Yn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7384/27222105601_3833431df1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HtwpAi)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HtwpAi) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Job jobbed:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7096/26685006104_d0eb3b31c6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GE4CC9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GE4CC9) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'll work out the fuel filler, internal pumps and fuel lines at a later date, plan is to move onto the handbrake, exhaust, and heatshield.
Cheers
Pete
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Not had much time on this recently as I've been busy at weekends with weddings, holidays and Le Mans- finally got back on it this weekend, managed to get the exhaust mounts done, cut and tack the exhaust system, put a big hole in the side for it to stick out, and bend the handbrake cables and make the mounts for them.
So, exhaust mounts from a T3 Transporter, brackets start as 5 pieces of flat sheet, welded together with captive nuts:
(http://[url=https://flic.kr/p/HPSTzN][img]https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7380/27452431924_9944371ed8_c.jpg)[/url]Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HPSTzN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr[/img]
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7394/28032222056_a8e041c447_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JH7sZo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JH7sZo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7365/27988804441_0bf69f22db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JDgWrP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JDgWrP) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Handbrake cables from the Seat were annealed and then bent into shape, they're slightly too long for the Polo, so I couldn't sit them tight against the body, but they clear everything, and no one will ever see them!
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7683/27451857273_0e4f3784a0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HPPWL2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HPPWL2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7399/28065919095_b25a9d84e5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JL6aWP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JL6aWP) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next up was the exhaust, I wanted 3" pipe and a side exit, to allow some rear axle mods, and a flat floor, 3" is fairly big for a modest Polo tunnel, but with some chopping of various brackets, and lack of gearlinkage, it goes!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7076/28032224416_b84d7bacdc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JH7tG5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JH7tG5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7599/27452444304_dcf04f201f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HPSXgf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HPSXgf) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7396/27451852393_d28183a6fc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HPPViT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HPPViT) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Silencer is Simons- seems fairly good quality, a crimped housing rather than welded, but had steel wadding, instead of fibreglass (which always degrades after a few years), hoping it will still pass noise limits, being a turbo it's fairy muted at no load anyway- I just about have space to put and additional one in the middle of the tunnel, if required.
Next up is bending the hangers, then onto the TIG to weld 'er up!
;D
Cheers
Pete
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Hangers all complete and tacked into place:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7681/28179696241_224e7fd121_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JW9iVK)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JW9iVK) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8740/28223528216_60a845b5b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K11XDs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K11XDs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
To remove the exhaust or change a hanger, remove the two M8 bolts, and take a split pin out, no wrestling with rubbers!
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8744/28223525556_9378888f5d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K11WRA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K11WRA) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Left it all looking something like this:
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8620/27642311894_b2b18c2854_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J7E5ho)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/J7E5ho) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I wasn't sure what I wanted to do for the tailpipe, I've got a straight exit and a slash cut, slash cut is winning currently, looks very similar to this... given the origins of the tube that's not too surprising:
(http://blog.fullytorquedracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/FTR-3583.jpg)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8856/28179695901_c47c05845f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JW9iPT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JW9iPT) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8874/27976737790_95d0e71d03_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JCd6s7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/JCd6s7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Because racecar etc.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8802/27642150423_6cf1996621_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J7Dfhp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/J7Dfhp) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next up is plating the inner panels together (all 3 of them) which requires a few paper templates and some zintec steel, proper pain in the arse to do, but vital!
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8600/27642302754_f752e2a741_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J7E2yN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/J7E2yN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now, currently scratching my head regarding rear axle, and mulling over pedal boxes and steering columns.
Cheers
Pete
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Incredible install Yoof, the attention to detail is so good.
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So next on the list of things to do was look at the rear axle- I plan on stepping up a slick size again, and had slight concerns about how floppy a standard Polo rear axle was.
Que some inspiration from works VW Golfs:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7595/28654015840_d99e466888_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jBS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jBS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8657/28654016010_94f296beeb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8863/28654016020_2b17e31ea1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEY) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, fire up the kettle and solidworks, a few days later some laser cut pieces arrived (I have spares if anyone wants) :
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8777/28323280303_7ba17a2be6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Qdt2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Qdt2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I also ordered some ERW tube and a few inserts from McGill Motorsport - good service and well priced rose joints:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8883/28834478872_3abfd826d4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1eZs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1eZs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, onwards with welding things up, first up the base plate for everything to sit on:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8734/28323258283_545cc5de64_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q6Vn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q6Vn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8704/28834490052_57ab90bffa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1ijd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1ijd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then tack up the 4 side plates (hole will become obvious later)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8793/28320659424_804a2eb7db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AMns)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AMns) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Mock-up of the centre mount:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8371/28323269223_88c8e2e06c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9QaaZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9QaaZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then tacked the insert and tube together:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8481/28834464212_17a9916e6b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1aCG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1aCG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8681/28320647354_de9bcda78d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AHMm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AHMm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then a quick tack to the base plate, and mount the stub axle to make sure everything clears:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8842/28320644324_98513b5511_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AGT7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AGT7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then etch primed the inside of the turret, and welded them both on:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8673/28323262193_1df26740b6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q85M)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q85M) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Same for the centre mount:
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8087/28323260613_b0fef8a728_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q7Bx)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q7Bx) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8385/28939180435_e37be9ab12_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L6fS7P)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/L6fS7P) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then it was time to strip it back, clean, etch prime and assemble:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8591/28653820960_eea4cd61b1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE3jFS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE3jFS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8561/28320657854_bd9dab3eaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Holes obviously for the handbrake cables to pass through:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7608/28834474212_7531574296_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1dB7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1dB7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And finished with some rubbers over the rose joints and plastic finishers over the nuts:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8470/28320649784_62201a4af6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AJvf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AJvf) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, that's some VAG parts bin raiding; Seat 2007 Stub Axles, Discs & Calipers, Lupo GTi Stub Axle spacers, Polo GT/G40 Axle, and Mk3 Golf Kit Car style toe bars.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8561/28320657854_bd9dab3eaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now!
Cheers
Pete
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Pete, you're my hero.
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You might want to drill some small drain holes at the bottom of the plates where the shocks sit, just in case water splashes in them in some magical way. I know the car probably wont run in the rain but better safe than sorry.
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Fair point - it definitely runs in the rain, just very slowly!
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Update time, almost finished the exhaust heat shield, just have to do around the backbox now.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8271/30305878701_764429d706_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Nb2xU2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Nb2xU2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5835/29760150803_35e59b04f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkNy1k)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/MkNy1k) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5533/30305867481_e825f3c33c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Nb2uyz)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Nb2uyz) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Whilst I was waiting for more heatshield material to arrive, I cracked on with a few more bits...
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5327/29761641284_a12e0f3b93_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkWc5h)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/MkWc5h) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I debated a few other pedal boxes, but decided to go with Tilton, as they're proven and I don't want to skimp on brakes!
I cut and tacked a dash bar in, as I don't intend on running a heater or dash anymore (heated windscreen planned) and then spent ages with blocks of wood getting the position right.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5469/30275411292_f016808180_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N8koZS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/N8koZS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then spent an untold amount of time getting two bars perfectly level and parallel. This is key to the install so the pedal box frame is loaded evenly.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8130/30355794466_925853f952_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Nfro7E)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Nfro7E) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After that, time to move onto EPAS. Ever since fitting a plate diff and slicks, I'd wanted to fit power steering - on tight tracks like Curby and bits of Blyton, it's hard to whirl the wheel quickly enough. So something which is can be retro fitted and configured to suit my needs appealed.
As with all things, it's far more involved than the pictures show, but I wanted to use as much of the GM column as possible, including the collapsible section and the control stalks. Also means if something breaks, I can swap the column out for another £50 eBay one, rather than worry about making more bespoke parts.
I fabricated and tacked together some CDS, and then tacked it to the dash bar... I got it right third time!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5801/30094983040_9f8e7c91c7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MRoDXW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/MRoDXW) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The two pickup points nearest in the photo are nylon, so in an impact the column can compress - hopefully this doesn't happen, but it's now safer than the standard Polo one!
Good blast round with the welder:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8270/30392028585_a5b965a767_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NiD6fR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NiD6fR) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
A lick of etch prime to finish off:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8275/30391996635_f973f7a6a0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NiCVKZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NiCVKZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5818/29760144873_4dccaf31cf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkNwf6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/MkNwf6) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8411/30392016295_62c9771c95_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NiD2AX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NiD2AX) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8418/29760140973_e4e4ff4a2c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkNv5R)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/MkNv5R) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The final piece was connecting two lower parts of the columns together. Luckily the Polo one fits inside the Corsa one with a minor fettle, unfortunately I snapped a drill bit in them tonight as I was drilling a hole for a 6mm pin, fairly standard practice to seam weld and pin these, so if the weld fails, there's still a mechanical link in the system. New part from eBay on the way to me currently, so I'll do that next week.
Looks like this, before I broke it:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8139/30275411802_822b9f3af2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N8kp9E)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/N8kp9E) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now, cheers!
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As ever, really interesting read, thanks for the info, the brake list etc..
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Stirling work Pete, some amazing effort going into this phase of the evolution! Are you going to do a run of heated screens? Last time I tried sourcing one it was a minimum order of 10 iirc.
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Stirling work Pete, some amazing effort going into this phase of the evolution! Are you going to do a run of heated screens? Last time I tried sourcing one it was a minimum order of 10 iirc.
Cheers - wanted this to be the last one for a while!
Yes, I expect I'll do a group buy on screens to get the prices down, 10 seems ambitious, so maybe 5, still saves a few quid!
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When you fitted the EPAS, did you consider moving the rack to get rid of some bump steer?
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When you fitted the EPAS, did you consider moving the rack to get rid of some bump steer?
Not a problem with bespoke uprights 8)
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Stirling work Pete, some amazing effort going into this phase of the evolution! Are you going to do a run of heated screens? Last time I tried sourcing one it was a minimum order of 10 iirc.
Cheers - wanted this to be the last one for a while!
Yes, I expect I'll do a group buy on screens to get the prices down, 10 seems ambitious, so maybe 5, still saves a few quid!
Safe, let me know when the time comes.
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Some minor bits finished off with the pedal box now, bias adjuster bracket welded on, and the brake & clutch fluid reservoir mounted.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5347/30846498152_971cc29d93_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NZNne3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NZNne3) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Obviously the battery tray will no longer house the battery, but this will still act as the rain runoff to the inner wing, so three large holes would allow water in, I wasn't convinced standard grommets were up to the job, so got some IP68 rated cable glands:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5808/22784452378_d840a70b03_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/AHogTQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/AHogTQ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
These are obviously waterproof, and seal nicely around the fluid feeds to the master cylinders. I'll add a smear of silicone once it's painted to make sure my feet stay dry!
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5605/30962901845_4f15f774ca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pb5XZg)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Pb5XZg) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next up was sorting the floor, and raising it up so my heels can rest on something.
Couple of sheets of ally cut to size:
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5788/30286116134_104c4a9cdc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N9hgb7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/N9hgb7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then covered in skateboard grip tape & button head fasteners:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5807/30927327146_22aa4e50a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P7WCSo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/P7WCSo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5811/30927327056_4816946cee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P7WCQQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/P7WCQQ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Finished article with bias adjuster tucked in the corner of the cage, I can reach it from the drivers seat (just):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5445/30846360072_7efebd1d2e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NZMEbm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NZMEbm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Some more heatshield has arrived to finish off the underside, and I can then crack on with the floor/splitter/skirts and diffuser... after that it's onto the engine bay. :)
Cheers
Pete
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This is nothing short of amazing! Incredible work, Pete!
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Cheers Stu :)
Finished off the exhaust heatshield now, fairly happy with it and hopefully it keeps the cabin a little cooler, I'm still toying with the idea of wrapping the exhaust fully if the flat floor makes the tunnel too hot... Ceramic coating would be ideal, but it's fairly expensive for a full system.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5693/31093793866_27900ec82d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PnDPCf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/PnDPCf) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5798/31016071341_4c498af3b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PfMtqH)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/PfMtqH) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Weird panoramic proportions...
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5483/30323367693_4d4a010eea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NczbLn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NczbLn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I also collected two sets of Vento Challenge Coilovers, made by Bilstein. I'm currently trying to understand if the dampening is adjustable in any way - if anyone knows please get in touch :)
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5518/30323337323_15434930ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ncz2JK)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Ncz2JK) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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hi
Peter every time is better, this is very good, I am always waiting for new photos to see the evolution.
cheers
paulo
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So next on the list of things to do was look at the rear axle- I plan on stepping up a slick size again, and had slight concerns about how floppy a standard Polo rear axle was.
Que some inspiration from works VW Golfs:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7595/28654015840_d99e466888_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jBS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jBS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8657/28654016010_94f296beeb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8863/28654016020_2b17e31ea1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE4jEY) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, fire up the kettle and solidworks, a few days later some laser cut pieces arrived (I have spares if anyone wants) :
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8777/28323280303_7ba17a2be6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Qdt2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Qdt2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I also ordered some ERW tube and a few inserts from McGill Motorsport - good service and well priced rose joints:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8883/28834478872_3abfd826d4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1eZs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1eZs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, onwards with welding things up, first up the base plate for everything to sit on:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8734/28323258283_545cc5de64_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q6Vn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q6Vn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8704/28834490052_57ab90bffa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1ijd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1ijd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then tack up the 4 side plates (hole will become obvious later)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8793/28320659424_804a2eb7db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AMns)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AMns) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Mock-up of the centre mount:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8371/28323269223_88c8e2e06c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9QaaZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9QaaZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then tacked the insert and tube together:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8481/28834464212_17a9916e6b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1aCG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1aCG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8681/28320647354_de9bcda78d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AHMm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AHMm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then a quick tack to the base plate, and mount the stub axle to make sure everything clears:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8842/28320644324_98513b5511_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AGT7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AGT7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then etch primed the inside of the turret, and welded them both on:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8673/28323262193_1df26740b6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q85M)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q85M) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Same for the centre mount:
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8087/28323260613_b0fef8a728_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q7Bx)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9Q7Bx) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8385/28939180435_e37be9ab12_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L6fS7P)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/L6fS7P) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then it was time to strip it back, clean, etch prime and assemble:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8591/28653820960_eea4cd61b1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KE3jFS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KE3jFS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8561/28320657854_bd9dab3eaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Holes obviously for the handbrake cables to pass through:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7608/28834474212_7531574296_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KW1dB7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/KW1dB7) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And finished with some rubbers over the rose joints and plastic finishers over the nuts:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8470/28320649784_62201a4af6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9AJvf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9AJvf) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, that's some VAG parts bin raiding; Seat 2007 Stub Axles, Discs & Calipers, Lupo GTi Stub Axle spacers, Polo GT/G40 Axle, and Mk3 Golf Kit Car style toe bars.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8561/28320657854_bd9dab3eaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/K9ALUo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now!
Cheers
Pete
What's the reason for the pyramids? Why not just weld it on the inside? It saves you more ground clearance for theflat floor. On the examples I can understand the pyramids, since there nothing to weld on, on the inside. Looking forward to your reaction.
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A few reasons, firstly for clearance from the rod end / bar, and more importantly to spread the load over a larger area.
I'm not sure the inside would be able to control camber change either, whereas this position should control camber and toe change.
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Very cool Pete. Awesome fabrication work 👍🏻
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Very nice work, something I'm also looking into at the moment
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Small update on what I've been tinkering with... I'm still working on the flat floor, so I'll wait until it's further along to update that, in the meantime I've finished the setup stands, and the setup wheels are in build currently.
Setup stands allow the car to sit on a perfectly level surface, so various different measurements of suspension geometry can be taken, irrespective of the surface below the car. My garage floor level isn't bad at all, but it's by no means perfect.
Usually these are used with setup wheels, ala:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/570/31486277284_674f73cf54_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PYkpgJ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/PYkpgJ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
They enable great access to adjustable suspension components, and really quick setup of string alignment systems, like this:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/288/32208658391_08f14fbedb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R5aN1p)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/R5aN1p) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, first up was the build of some suitable stands, I don't currently have a lift or a pit, so access under the car is important, I'll use these stands for other things too, so they're 500mm high :) Bit of a battle to get the car onto them, but I've got some plans for that later.
Broke out my CAD skills (which are basic!) and knocked this up:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/495/32208652631_7cce351e13_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R5aLi6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/R5aLi6) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
That was translated into some dxfs, and a week or so later some parts arrived from the laser cutters:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/32328379425_652740789a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RfKoUa)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RfKoUa) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The feet have a load rating of 250kg each (heaviest corner of the Polo was 276kg)
Time to weld the captive nuts on the keeper plates for the box section:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/539/31517854103_b2ec9ff77c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q28eXD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Q28eXD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And then weld these onto the box section:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/500/32328386105_2b37a1445c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RfKqTk)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RfKqTk) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then counter sunk the aluminium surface plates, and bolted the legs onto them:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/315/32289339786_04fb2421b4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RciiLW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RciiLW) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/685/31517847923_1169b61ee4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q28d86)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Q28d86) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then welded on some cross braces, they still need a lick of paint:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/273/31517850583_3bc1226e66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q28dUX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Q28dUX) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
A good friend has also been laboring over the design for the setup wheels, those parts are currently being manufactured, so should have one to check fitment soon:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/380/32289300826_b072e8e318_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Rci7cd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Rci7cd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now
Cheers
Pete
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Excellent work
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Thanks Ian!
Slapped some paint on the stands at the weekend:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/522/31671268883_28011f7b72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QfFwQ4)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/QfFwQ4) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And a photo of some random bits of aluminium box bolted to the floor... more on that next time:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/549/31639131244_c14834ef02_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QcQPqQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/QcQPqQ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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The first mock up of the setup wheels was done on my mates Autograss car:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2750/33055955955_c4127584fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sn3q46)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Sn3q46) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/563/32210429294_4cfa72254f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R5jSrd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/R5jSrd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3669/32899988862_839ed8ef2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S8g3th)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S8g3th) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2640/32899986702_b554e2e45a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S8g2Q3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S8g2Q3) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Obviously will be welded together, but as a proof of concept, these work! :)
An ironing board for the Polo arrived too:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2408/32653892432_0c641a8162_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RKvJzo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RKvJzo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3769/32807151515_5773d45c1b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZ4ean)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RZ4ean) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Mr Haug himself had his car in a wind tunnel - reports 80-103kg at the rear axle @ 170kph, I didn't witness the testing, so pinch of salt with those figures. That said, he doesn't piss about with his own car:
(http://galerien.karosserie-hoffmann.com/images/kh_21.jpg)
Onwards to the floor! I thought long and hard about dong this, and decided last year it was something I wanted to do, hence the exhaust and fuel tank modifications. I don't like adding weight to the car, but I'll not re-underseal the floor, so there's 10kg in the bag there.
So, start with a bare floor, and a mock-up wheel of the correct dimensions:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5483/30323367693_4d4a010eea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NczbLn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/NczbLn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The basic frame was then put into place, I'd made some measurements prior to taking the car off the road so I knew where my ground line was. I've worked on 60mm between ground and floor face, this is the minimum allowance in the Seat Motorsport guidelines for the Supacopa which I've cribbed a few things from.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/639/31923172792_f14c09e913_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QCWB5U)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/QCWB5U) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I was however, still fairly cautious, as I'm changing the wheels, suspension and probably rideheight - so wanted to allow for future tweaks.
I decided to weld tubes with captive nuts to the body, but make them 25mm short of the frame. I'll make some nylon spacers, and tape these to the steel tubes, a button head fastner will then hold it all together.
My theory being, I can alter the floor height by changing the nylon spacers, and if I hit something the bolt will hopefully bend, before the metal tube welded to my Spanish steel floor!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/475/32210875834_a96026ce46_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R5nabb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/R5nabb) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2432/33014580416_c775d8d42c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SiomxJ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SiomxJ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Generally this took ages to get right. Loads of measuring, re-measuring and tea drinking. Re-clamping, re-measuring, and making new pieces if they didn't fit 100%
I had some ally plates laser cut to join everything together:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/635/32673879850_cde6063da1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RMhb93)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RMhb93) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2069/33055969365_c723db2a10_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sn3u3i)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Sn3u3i) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Many rivets later, it was getting there:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2440/32807155705_53591edeaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZ4fpB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/RZ4fpB) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I've incorporated a rear diffuser, currently started off with a 7' angle, which is fairly standard - it doesn't look extreme, or anything like some of the time attack cars. But at greater angles the risk of detaching flow from the floor is increased. I run the car slightly nose down too, so didn't want to take the piss too much.
If I want to change this in the future, I'll get some more plates cut at a different angle:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3840/33014578716_c4f13fcb4d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Siom3q)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Siom3q) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Longer tubes welded to the rear floor (with some spreader plates) securing the diffuser:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2149/32929955531_e1dec61441_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SaUCvZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SaUCvZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The finished frame:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2905/32240424243_a922e7ccc4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R7YATv)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/R7YATv) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3842/33014575906_94e5da57dc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SiokcY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SiokcY) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/421/32929956581_1fc3a189f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SaUCQ6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SaUCQ6) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next steps are to get the floor plates laser cut, means I can easily replace them as/when they get damaged (and I doubt I can cut straight lines...)
Been tinkering with the powertrain in parallel to this, hoping to use a combination of VAG parts to make something reliable and circa 350bhp.
Cheers
Pete
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Wow great job being done.....are you doing a front splitter Peter?
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Yup - will be a full flat floor inc. front splitter and airdam, I need to get the engine and downpipe made before I do that through
Cheers
Pete
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Nice work Pete 8)
Are you going to be using this for competition?
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Nice work Pete 8)
Are you going to be using this for competition?
Nope - just for trackdays, racing involves contact, and deep pockets! This keeps me entertained in the garage, lets my try things out, and hopefully will translate to something quick on track!
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Almost finished the rear sections of the floor now, started off making a dozen nylon spacers to ensure the floor is at the desired clearance to the ground:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/33010833490_d637aac750_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Si49Hy)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Si49Hy) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After that I could offer up the laser cut plates I'd designed a few weeks back, and see if my measurements were correct (they were):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/585/33010834300_ab5587349b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Si49Xw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Si49Xw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With the help of various clamps, pri-pins and the button heads, I started to attach it to the frame:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/703/33393978435_7ffa7e5096_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSmT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSmT) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/699/33393978465_232afcb17f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSnp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSnp) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Many rivets later....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2867/33010835260_9a496f1af7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Si4af5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Si4af5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/658/33393978955_ef42d61cd6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSvR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SSUSvR) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Happy with the fit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3832/33238013302_dee11f47ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SD8vmS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SD8vmS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So I've got to take the diffuser blades to a local company to be bent, as they're longer than any folder I can borrow, once that's done and they're riveted on, the floor is done (for now). Can then whip it off, primer and treat the underside, refit the fuel tank, make a few modifications to the axle, and then get the car back round the correct way!
All for now :)
Pete
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That looks really good. Can't wait to see the whole package with splitter etc. Are you going to make some bergcup style sideskirts as well to increase the area?
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Yup - they're being made currently ;)
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Awesome work. Just a quick question I have been trying to get hold of Wl motorsport for some berg cup arches but i can't get any repley just wondered if you could help thanks
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Thanks - try ringing them (preferably with someone who speaks German)
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I translated an email I sent them into German but still didn't get a reply to 2 emails I sent them either.
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Ok I will give it ago how did you manage to get yours ?
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PM me with what you need and I'll see if I can procure them through PPP
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Spent a little bit of time on this recently, first up was a tweak of the rose joint mounting position on the rear axle, rotated through 90' for clearance to the diffuser:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3695/32882532624_eb373754b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S6HzkE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S6HzkE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next up was painting all the flat floor supports, and heatshrinking the nylon spacers in plce so they don't move when I attach the floor:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3934/33724980805_0a828c7993_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ToakQi)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ToakQi) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Repeat many times:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3722/32911996283_9d876a6fa1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S9jzRM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S9jzRM) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Once I'd done that the diffuser plates had been done, so I rivted them up and admired my handy work:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2936/32882532444_1a1532bd7c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S6Hzhy)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S6Hzhy) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3946/33340623920_81c1967067_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SNcpVs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/SNcpVs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then took the floor off, so I could remove the spit and flip the car over:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2886/33684291796_e276332574_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TjyNpE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/TjyNpE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I pushed it outside and checked my jacking bars fitted:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2815/33684294426_75b0ee077b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TjyPc1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/TjyPc1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Blew the dust off the interior
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2849/33568913672_c94b04fe74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T9nsvE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/T9nsvE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Then used two farm jacks to raise it onto my stands:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/33596101021_e3dbdd83f0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TbLNn4)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/TbLNn4) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Set it all level (flat floor is level with the sill)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3853/32911994463_a5904521cd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S9jzjp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/S9jzjp) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Re-attached the floor:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3857/33684284396_4d2a767792_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TjyLd5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/TjyLd5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And retired for the evening:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2844/33724978895_cc085e9998_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Toakgn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Toakgn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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Not done much on this recently, aside from lots of measuring regarding suspension/chassis pickup points, I think my Vento suspension will work...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4184/33774442654_ed05ba32de_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TswR7N)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/TswR7N) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Finally worked out a combination of OEM components to give a fairly interesting Powertrain. Turbo from a Seatsport Supercopa, Transmission from a Mk5 Golf GTi, coupled with Audi A3 Diesel stub shaft and intermediate shaft, hopefully allowing far more even length driveshafts, all coupled to an old AGU I got for a ton!
More chassis leg doctoring required ;D
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Outstanding as always. Does that mean theres a spare adapter plate in need of a home? 😊
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Incredible work!
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Oft! Great work Pete, love the floor! Have we started calling this Frankenstein yet?
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Oft! Great work Pete, love the floor! Have we started calling this Frankenstein yet?
(https://images.csmonitor.com/csmarchives/2011/09/0928-frankenstein-moon.jpg?alias=cinema_428x228)
Surgery nearing completion ;)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4294/35845030850_de711b7113_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WBv9Rh)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WBv9Rh) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
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The words as promised:
I'd decided some time ago that the VAG 1.8T 20v motor was a good choice for my plan with the Polo - that said, they don't fit, at all, not in the slightest.
However, the engines are cheap, readily available, and tuned from an armchair, so the initial effort to fit the engine, would be rewarded by ease of tuning and parts availability later.
Turbo choice needed to be made fairly early on, the standard K03 isn't suitable - I'd spent a long time thinking (and calculating) what I wanted, at one end of the scale was a bespoke manifold and something with 3 letters from BorgWarner. The other was an off the shelf OE solution in the form of a K04-064 and adapter plate.
Decided on this as the hybrid units see north of 400bhp on a 20v, they're a low inertia (helped by smaller diameter wheels) and the integrated manifold and turbine housing means I'll not be worried about it cracking.
Downsides are fitting it in and thermal management.
First job on the list after bolting stuff together was to measure everything and mark datums, centrelines etc:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35423754744_13facee046_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VYh199)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/VYh199) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
At this point I dropped it in, and worked out what needed to be cut.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/36215313146_6bca64da37_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XbdWSN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XbdWSN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
This photo is deceptive, although the engine looks fairly well positioned, the sump would be circa 100mm into the tarmac at the ride height I want to run. Tall block engines, are unsurprisingly much taller than their small block brothers!
Next problem was the steering rack, now I know a few VW Engineers, they have a good sense of humour, but the day it came to design a Polo steering solution, they just took the piss. It's flexible, vague, poorly mounted, and generally in the way. No consideration for future proofing either :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/36089415052_662f8a0779_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6FL1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6FL1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
This will go, once I've found something that fits - a Corsa D rack isn't quite right, but close. I've got a Corsa C EPAS setup and column in the car, so next logical eBay purchase is a Corsa C rack.
Onwards with the cutting!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/36089410902_8380512ce8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6Ews)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6Ews) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'm moving the front mounting points forward, and reinforcing the chassis legs along the way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/36089418832_1bd850412a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6GTb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6GTb) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The diagonal bar runs through the front chassis leg now, where my subframe will pickup, the vertical bar is welded to a crush tube where the original ARB mounts to, and the subframe will pickup on too:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/36215315166_e0b760c095_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XbdXtC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XbdXtC) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Diagonal bar welded to the front lower chassis leg:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/36089410182_5308fdacd4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6Ej3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6Ej3) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then discovered Epytec sell uprated engine mounts for Golfs, to fit a variety of different Powertrain combinations into old Golfs. Clearly I don't own a Golf, but I've managed to make two of their engine mounts work:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/36256857395_0787f4d246_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XeTSwX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XeTSwX) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Lick of weld through primer to stop it rusting:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35423753324_952469123b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VYgZHE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/VYgZHE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Currently I've used stock Febi engine mounts, with Poly inserts, which are abit rubbish, but will do for a proof of concept.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/36256852645_0b5f3bb4d9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XeTR84)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XeTR84) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
On to the NSF was a similar process, although I've not finished the chassis leg yet.
Engine mount is 3 bits of tube and another Epytec mount:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/36257306435_debfb3b4ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XeWb22)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XeWb22) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Installation angle is basically the same as a stock Mk4 Golf in X and Y, which wouldn't be possible quickly without one of these:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4317/36122796891_1b88b70d06_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/X33M1X)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/X33M1X) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
All for now :happy:
Pete
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If you need any info on the Corsa EPAS steering give me a shout and I will ask some old work mates, I used to test/characterise them on the rig at TRW in Shirley. Might be able to get you some info on the software to reduce the assistance, they're super light and not speed dependant from memory, you can turn all that on/off and make it progressive as the vehicle speed increases. Same for ford systems, current Polo system and some Fiat systems (stay away from them if you can, they're shit!)
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If you need any info on the Corsa EPAS steering give me a shout and I will ask some old work mates, I used to test/characterise them on the rig at TRW in Shirley. Might be able to get you some info on the software to reduce the assistance, they're super light and not speed dependant from memory, you can turn all that on/off and make it progressive as the vehicle speed increases. Same for ford systems, current Polo system and some Fiat systems (stay away from them if you can, they're shit!)
That would be very useful cheers - I think the fixed assistance are from the vans, the Corca C runs a standard 2 or 3 rate system varying with speed I believe.
Cheers
Pete
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You and Mr Pinder with the Pinderwagon would be a beautiful sight on the ring together.
400bhp with what less than 900kg's all in? will be rather hilarious.
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Not too much of an update, but an update none the less!
My intention was to use Golf uprights and hubs on the Polo - again, these don't fit, so another bespoke subframe and fabricated wishbone setup is required. Coupled with changing the steering rack, it's a full front end redesign, which has taken some thinking... and needs a fair bit more yet brickwall
Vento Challenge Car Bilstien dampers are inverted monotubes - not surprising considering the front spring rates fitted (800lb+)
So they'll get re-valved for some much lighter spring rates in due course
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/36122797811_7d4a0eb3a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/X33MhP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/X33MhP) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
First job to make these work was sorting the top mounts, I have fabricated strut mounting points on the Polo anyway, previously for camber adjustment (which cocks the kpi) with a Golf hub/upright this is adjustable further down the assembly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/36257306435_debfb3b4ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XeWb22)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/XeWb22) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Although the top mount will be adjustable, my intention is to set it for the correct track width and then leave alone. So drew up some bits to be laser cut, and ordered some bearing housings from McGill Motorsport (good price and service). These will be welded on the underside and mount stright on the damper shaft.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/37102203011_159e047750_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwAukn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/YwAukn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Will be sent to my friend Jake for TIG welding, as I don't want to warp the bearing housing with my MIG.
Another quick win was a front engine mount- nicked from a B5/B6 Audi A4 1.8T - needs the lower PAS bracket cutting off and then it can act as the main torque reaction mount for the Polo
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37054571846_f5ddcb8de0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysonfo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Ysonfo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
£4.50 delivered from eBay :lol:
All for now
Pete
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Time for an update, been on a few trackdays in the £600 Clio, still good fun, managed to get full value from a set of brake pads at Blyton:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/24746113808_51616e513a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DGJiuC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DGJiuC) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Put some big 4" ducts on the front and made up some deflector plates, which seemed to help things somewhat.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/24746136488_a161da36ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DGJqeE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DGJqeE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/37730399565_4f7ce960f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Zu7ahr)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Zu7ahr) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Aside from a crack in the exhaust, and a cv boot held together with gaffa tape (cheers Nige) it's been a solid motor. Managed 180miles at Donnington without anymore than fuel and bump starts :lol:
Anyway, enough of that french filth. Onto Polo progress!
I needed to get the powertrain mounted, just had the c-mount left to do. I used an Epytech 02M engine mount, which was cut and shut to take a 90 shore bush from superflex. Doesn't really move currently, but as the bush is a common size I can swap it out for a lower shore rating in future.
Looks like this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/26841926699_a0266c9ce4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GTVTDD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GTVTDD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/38561604296_3ecc529c41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Kyiuu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21Kyiuu) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/37900823054_bf46da7f28_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaCfs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaCfs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
For those not familiar with a Polo chassis (which is most of you because why the f**k would anyone modify a Polo!?) the rear brace is between the track control arm mounts, and will form part of the subframe.
That represents 3 evenings work!
Now the powertrain wasn't moving about anymore, I could address the steering rack. I had already decided a K04-064 was the turbo for me, just it wasn't the turbo for the steering rack, or the chassis leg, or anything else really, I hope it's worth it...
Polo steering rack looks like this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/36089415052_662f8a0779_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6FL1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/WZ6FL1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The mounts to the bulkhead aren't great, meaning there's lateral movement in the rack and the linkage on the end to the steering arms adds to the vague steering feeling.
I needed more clearance, so binned the Polo one and went through 3 or 4 different racks (Escort, Aygo, Corsa D) before I found an earlier Corsa one that would do the trick. Most are subframe mounted, and I need it bulkhead, so it's a PITA to find one with the correct width and angle of input shaft to the rack.
This wasn't an easy thing to get right (assuming I have) so copious amounts of measuring were done:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4538/38561587876_8b4e96447a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21KydBo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21KydBo) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
After measuring comes grinding:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/37900806234_2bc3125bfc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaxfs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaxfs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then offered the steering column up, and did a massive swear:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/38561604056_0b747eca96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Kyiqm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21Kyiqm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
UJ are fairly forgiving, but I was taking the piss expecting this to work!
After deciding not to set fire to the car, I removed the EPAS column I had previously painstaking installed with the Polo steering rack, and cut off the mounts.
How it was:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4572/37730399985_219c59c883_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Zu7apF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Zu7apF) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I turned my attention back to mounting the Corsa rack, and did it like so:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38585892102_d584e197fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGMpL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGMpL) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/38561615866_ed3e47d92a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21KymVY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21KymVY) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4520/26841930269_1fea0b6e08_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GTVUHc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GTVUHc) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With that mounted, I then removed the steering column mounts on the dash bar, and mocked up where it needed to be so the UJ angles weren’t terrible:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4516/38561613536_47d63dae6f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21KymeN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21KymeN) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/38585906312_f52a8a219f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGRCL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGRCL) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Trial fit of the pedal box to ensure I had clearance:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/38618482721_2d72534df3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21QzPsZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21QzPsZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Added two more tubes, triangulating it back to the dash bar:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/38585900762_0602d06545_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGPZ5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGPZ5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then needed to remake the connecting shaft between the column and rack, as I was now using all GM parts, this was based on a stock Corsa one, just cut down. They’re crimped splines as standard, something which I can’t replicate, so I pinned it using a 6mm roll pin, and then welded around the shaft and around the pin for good measure (the spline is still fully engaged too)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/38618469421_806d24e70a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21QzKvF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21QzKvF) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38585900522_8d689bd4aa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGPUW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGPUW) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Happier with that than my previous cut n shut, so every cloud n all that.
Cabin looks something like this now:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4527/24746121248_96a83ef8b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DGJkGU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DGJkGU) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/38618453411_379d1a4699_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21QzEKD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21QzEKD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Still got to mount the gear shift tower, and cut the handbrake down, along with splitting the corsa column to accept these:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/37900824614_4ba3816b2a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaCHm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZKaCHm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Should still be able to keep the Corsa stalks, which makes indicators and wash/wipe much more intuitive and easier, flicking toggle switches was my least preferred route for standard controls!
Rack gives me the space I need engine side of the bulkhead, and there’s enough room for some heatshielding betwwen the turbine housing and it:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/38585891182_9594dd89b6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGM8U)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGM8U) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/26841930179_32bdd4286f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GTVUFD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GTVUFD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I’ve also been fitting a new radiator to support the extra thermal loads this engine will have, a Mk4 Golf aluminium items seemed a good place to start, 42mm core and is literally the largest rad I can fit in!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/26841934959_c31cc31709_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GTVW74)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GTVW74) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Lots of parts got cut for it to fit, including the headlight surrounds:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37318219742_63f6d774c9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YRFCzL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/YRFCzL) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/24746141498_0260594814_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DGJrJ3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DGJrJ3) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I’ll be getting rid of the stock shroud, I can’t fit a stock alternator with it, and the average speed will hopefully be high enough to warrant not having one, just need to ensure the rad is ducted properly.
It fits behind the bumper and grille, so just need to package an intercooler & oil cooler, and I’m done for the cooling pack stuff!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/38585895852_ef306a58a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21MGNwq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/21MGNwq) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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:o fair play to you Pete, things are looking good. You clearly know some shit!
Most people would have probably moved onto a golf by now. I enjoy and applaud your efforts for sticking with a Polo. I also have the common love for a Polo over a golf, however I'd be more inclined to stick with what I know (small block) and accept a power to weight ratio that is plenty for the stock chassis. Your approach of making the chassis cope with what you demand in terms of power is brilliant! Clearly the difference between a motorsport engineer who understands the physics and the average enthusiast.
Once again; hats off to you. Some inspiring stuff!
Andy
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Cheers Andy - someone has to have love for the old Polos 8)
If I had to start again tomorrow, I'd certainly choose a Mk2 Golf, I started the project with more free time than I now have!
Chassis will have a few more interesting tweaks, especially in the subframe, which is the link to getting across platform parts to work together.
Small blocks are certainly loads easier to pick up and lug around!
Cheers
Pete
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Awesome work as ever!
Are you going to go 4wd at some point? In for a penny and all that! ;) :P
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Awesome work as ever!
Are you going to go 4wd at some point? In for a penny and all that! ;) :P
Cheers! 4wd probably not, I'm intending to use it for track days- power management (and driver skill) are key to make big power FWD work effectively. BTCC is a good example of different circuits playing to the strengths of rwd and fwd.
A VR6 Turbo in a 4wd Golf II does excite me though!
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Progress is slow, but it's progress all the same!
I've been making good the bulkhead after cutting large holes for the steering rack. The stock bulkhead was looking crusty, and I decided rather than repair, to replace the lower section entirely.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4602/39638286631_900c9c7a68_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23oGzD2)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23oGzD2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Obviously involved cardboard, cutting, grinding, welding, all the usual ingredients!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/38929934864_3348b9787f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22j76kw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22j76kw) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Couple if fiddly bits around the rack passing through the bulkhead, I was hoping to use the Corsa gasket here, but it's too big unfortunately, so a crush foam ring will have to do.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/39638309931_ee4c2d35e0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23oGGyK)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23oGGyK) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Big hole
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/39608597792_9ec8aa801f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m5qbu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23m5qbu) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
No hole
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4724/38929935324_c15cd18557_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22j76ts)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22j76ts) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Rack fitted
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/25766957168_49621dc3d1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FfWoEd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FfWoEd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Welding on the engine side is nice and easy, welding the interior side is a back breaker, especially with a full cage in the way! Amost knocked myself out on the dash bar more than once...
Some Bilt Hamber no rust applied inside and out:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4677/24770036557_6f04d7e7f0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DJQUTP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/DJQUTP) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/25766955598_7eaa6ca9b4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FfWoc9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/FfWoc9) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With that complete, I needed to make a heatshield, same process as I'd used for the exhaust tunnel. I made it in two parts due to the size and shape of my material.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4717/39655896471_5318c99f69_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23qfQqX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23qfQqX) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Camera doesn't pick it up very well, but there's a large amount of manipulation involved to make it a good fit, can't say I'm 100% happy with it, but it's functional.
I then used 3M reflective tape over the surface, the reason for this is the standard heatshield material allows fluid to be collected and pool. It also is difficult to wipe clean without removing it. By taping the surface hopefully fluid won't pool and it's far easier to wipe down, both reducing the risk of a thermal event (I hope!). Unsure if this has had any detrimental effect to the thermal performance of it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4754/38929936254_b77f9f577a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22j76Ku)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22j76Ku) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
So, one rack with heat-shielding complete:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4608/39638287851_7c3c100390_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23oGA14)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23oGA14) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers,
Pete
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Progressed on with the Polo over the last few weeks. Front subframe is now welded up - just need to finalise location of wishbone pickups.
As usual things started with some measuring and ensuring my datums are correct.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/871/41191327341_455f8d6c9d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25KWjwZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/25KWjwZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/27317017258_2ffddeeca2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HBURwb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HBURwb) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Checking levels before welding it up:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/27317012818_7b103c8753_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HBUQcC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HBUQcC) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With it all tacked in place I then welded it up on the car to minimise warping, and finished it clamped on my bench:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/809/41191329521_81e8b03223_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25KWkbz)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/25KWkbz) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Gussets added to the front/side bar to strengthen where the front wishbone pickup will mount to, I've also got to tie this back into the chassis mounts:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/815/40477767204_7dba411ab3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ET8Y1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24ET8Y1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The (almost) finished article:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/40477763124_71fe8de3ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ET7KE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24ET7KE) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I've used ROPT510 tube for the frame, spec is here: https://proformancemetals.co.uk/products/ropt510/ (http://"https://proformancemetals.co.uk/products/ropt510/") It welds nicely, and helpfully the supplier, Proformance Metals are just down the road in Daventry.
Looks like this mounted in the car:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/26318252127_b34501b24f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6DVrH)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G6DVrH) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/26318249627_da3139f5f6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6DUGB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G6DUGB) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I also had a revision to do on my top mounts, as I'd reached the limits of the bearing before dialing in the amount of castor I want to run, luckily I got spare plates cut last time so..
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/40477726544_641a686160_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ESVSY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24ESVSY) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
My friend Jake then welded a new pair of bearing housings in at a 7' angle, I can run +/-10' from here before reaching the articulation limit of the bearing, so should be plenty.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/810/26318241907_fa9c6f04ce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6DSpv)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G6DSpv) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/785/26318242067_80b1daec91_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6DSsg)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/G6DSsg) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I also paid a visit to my local machine shop and got some parts turned/milled for the rear suspension.
Some longer bushes to allow fitment of the Vento rears:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/783/39380566480_4ac7195f48_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVGq9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVGq9) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And then some larger stub axle spacers, 40mm each side maximises a 205/50R15 in the rear arch, and gives clearance to the coilover.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/802/40477759534_8c46f14581_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ET6FL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24ET6FL) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then got worried about the weight, but net result was +220g either side over previous parts:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/39380555940_c54b0ebcfb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVDhq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVDhq) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/881/40295132315_09c835cc98_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24oK5YB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24oK5YB) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Wheels sit a little proud of the stock body lines:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/39380542360_61739e4625_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVzfh)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/22ZVzfh) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Also been working on a different turbo setup, as I couldn't package the K04-064 without deleting my OSF chassis leg completely, more on that next time!
Cheers
Pete
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Simply lovely! Fantastic fab work and painstaking attention to the dimensions/alignment. 8)
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A long overdue update, first up I got a new company banger delivered, this one needs plugging in:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1790/43188937892_6c6704ce46_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28NsAyd)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28NsAyd) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
More suspension measuring has been going on in the garage, unfortunately it's resulting in me chopping my subframe about to mount the front suspension pickups further inboard to stop massive camber gain in bump, this didn't stand much of a chance unfortunately:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/833/43240146101_2688f10218_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28SZ3Yn)IMG_8423 (https://flic.kr/p/28SZ3Yn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Measuring sticks back out and some calculations will result in something nearer this:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/834/29369613438_c262319bd4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKhWRu)IMG_8425 (https://flic.kr/p/LKhWRu) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Parts arrived including some 3/4" high misalignment bearings for the ball joint, I'm waiting for some other bits to come back from machining, so this will pause here for a while
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1804/41430365720_f03184881a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2684sjm)IMG_8429 (https://flic.kr/p/2684sjm) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/923/42335850565_9c2521c0a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iq2)IMG_8460 (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iq2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Fitted studs into the wheel hubs, nice gear:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/41429130990_fcb5c9225e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267X8gU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267X8gU) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And bolted a wheel up, this level of castor will require some arch and bumper modifications:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/914/41430378600_b064d6d686_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2684w9q)IMG_8045 (https://flic.kr/p/2684w9q) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Next part of things that don't fit... the stock AGU inlet manifold:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1810/42521755844_5a1cb95ff0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv7zs)IMG_8055 (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv7zs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/919/42521752364_7cbc60f2e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv6xs)IMG_8057 (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv6xs) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
:lol: Not a chance, so I've purchased a VR6 throttle body and will have an inlet fabricated to sit much lower down behind the rad, which unfortunately is where the stock alternator sits, never easy eh.
I had been planning on fitting a lightweight Brise alternator, I'm hopeful that ePAS loads are offset by high rpm on track, but need to tot up big draws like fan, fuel pump and ePAS - this is a 60A unit with a 2.4:1 ratio on the crank, so at idle will generate circa 15A and full 60A from 3k onwards, battery sizing will be fairly key to I don't run out of electric magic.
Stock alternator (90A) and tensioner:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1825/43238919421_2ebb818f0e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28SSLjH)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28SSLjH) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Brise 5SI:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/29368318798_1bc6912f05_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKbj17)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/LKbj17) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Nice saving, I ordered up a 6PK pulley and belt as I had a v-band on it previously, then chopped up the standard AGU mount and stuck it in:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/835/41429137040_976ec55032_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa5d)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa5d) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'll get some spacers turned up once I've properly aligned it, tensioner will be a simple turnbuckle with rose joints at either end, can see how tight it is to the rad:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/41429137240_84fde7c6ef_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa8E)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa8E) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
The main progress had been made on the turbo system. I started the 20v conversion hoping I could use a Golf R/S3 K04-064, unfortunately I couldn't package this without seriously re-engineering the OSF chassis leg, so a change of plan was in order.
I was just about to order a Borg Warner EFR unit, and a very well priced Garrett GTX popped up, ex-BTCC bespoke builds by Owen Developments, coupled with a tial turbine housing, nearest off the shelf unit is a GTX2876.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1801/29369627618_1f99dccfe1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKi24Y)IMG_8041 (https://flic.kr/p/LKi24Y) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Obviously that necessitated a new manifold, which I ordered from TSR:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/29369610038_3525c7d1d9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKhVQS)IMG_8454 (https://flic.kr/p/LKhVQS) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And a 44mm Tial MV-R Wastegate, in red to match my dump valve:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/42335848775_c74fe04d57_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27v5hTa)IMG_8511 (https://flic.kr/p/27v5hTa) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Bolted up to see if it would fit, soon meant the bulkhead would meet mr grinder for the 4th or 5th time in its life:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/42335852375_5332948afc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iXe)IMG_8456 (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iXe) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Clearance to the rack is good:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/43238931891_1a3d396f79_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28SSQ2H)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28SSQ2H) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/43188936992_2380a44b25_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28NsAhG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28NsAhG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Unfortunately there's a slight design flaw which means the wastegate fouls the gearshift cables, so I'll get the manifold modified to re position it:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29368336448_3fb54ef590_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKbpfq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/LKbpfq) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Decided to locate the air filter in the space the cabin heater left behind, a nice high pressure area in the scuttle:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/843/42334794625_c1ee4660d9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27uYTwa)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27uYTwa) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/42334791975_f6e0c1b145_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27uYSJt)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27uYSJt) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/43189558542_3c5b695df3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28NvM45)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28NvM45) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Made a mount for the air filter and welded that in:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/42334802705_e45bdb4135_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27uYVVt)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27uYVVt) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Turned my attention to the exhaust downpipe, fairly easy stuff just a 3" pipe with a v-band on it and a few lambda bungs, will all be TIG welded together soon, just tacked up for now:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/41428297270_f4caa25fa1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267SRrq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267SRrq) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/41429137170_3a762dcca3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa7s)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267Xa7s) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Last bit of the update is the intercooler - nicked from an Evo 8, they're plentiful and cheap, and flow well for the power level I'm gunning for:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/914/42521747624_119604cdb9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv58J)IMG_8422 (https://flic.kr/p/27Mv58J) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Sort of fits the Polo...
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/923/41429136720_a61859e83c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267X9YG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267X9YG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1826/41429129550_59577f4a5b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/267X7R5)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/267X7R5) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Bumper will get a fair bit of re-design once the splitter and air dam are done, for now it's just got a big hole cut in it:
Which is about where it stands currently!
Cheers
Pete
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Bloody hell mate, probably have been easier to build the front end how you like then chop the Polo off from the windscreen and weld the custom made front end on! ;)
Do you sell that bolt on bumper support bar? My tin plate bit is 3/4 chopped so was going to look at making something like you've done but it's easier to buy something already made! :p
I used to be excited about cars like this, how they'd drive and so on.... nowadays I find it more interesting finding out the ways people like yourself have done things, lessons learned, etc.
Keep it up!
As for the Golf, it's not a banger....there's no ICE? So that would make it a....... whiner? Whirrer?
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Yeah spaceframe would make it a load easier in some respects, but it would 100% snowball into different suspension design etc. I've got to be realistic about what I can DIY, anything else more serious the money is better spent on a Radical IMO
Never sold the bolt on bumper bar, not sure there's enough demand? I could always look at doing a small run.
Golf is a 1.4TFSi with DSG, it's got some orange cables and an e-machine bolted on too for low CO2, so it still goes bang bang occasionally ;) :D
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#shouldhaveboughtagolf
can't wait to see this finished though yoof, it's going to be mega.
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Yeah, tell me about it!
I've finished the gearshift mount and dropped the ATL tank back in, along with lining the alternator up ;D
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/42570076735_d7e4c584d6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLGg)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLGg) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/42570077195_ecd9ab2820_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLQc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLQc) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/29603812328_8be73172fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/M6Zh2o)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/M6Zh2o) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/42570077685_d57b61f073_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLYD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27RLLYD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/43474996271_5f888179c0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29eJHKe)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/29eJHKe) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Boost pipes have arrived - and hopefully some bits will be finished in the machine shop soon, pushing to get the wishbones done in the next few weeks.
Cheers
Pete
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Update time - I got a package from Adam at Noath Engineering who kindly made me some light bulbs to my spec... :thumb:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/42268170330_5938293c5f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27p6qrq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27p6qrq) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
These are bearing housings for some NMB high misalignment bearings, I debated with Gurds going 5/8th or 3/4" - ultimately decided on 3/4" even if it was over engineered, a Lola T70 uses the same part... which has slicks as wide as my car :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/923/42335850565_9c2521c0a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iq2)IMG_8460 (https://flic.kr/p/27v5iq2) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then glued the following together:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/44077076741_cc1d8e546c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a9WxhZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2a9WxhZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
And did a little test fit with the drop pins, I'd made these longer than I knew I needed, and had a few pairs done just so I can play with ride heights:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43170710155_7efef4d0bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28LRb5T)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28LRb5T) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then whipped the subframe off, and fabricated two 10mm bridging sections so I could cut the longitudinal tubes on the subframe to give clearance for the tension strut:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/43358767844_d35476ceb2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/294t25Q)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/294t25Q) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
With the wishbones in place and tubes lopped off it looks like this:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/30209006158_32de615353_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N2t44L)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/N2t44L) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43358721764_084c54dfa8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/294sMom)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/294sMom) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1797/44077055201_d4dd7a30fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a9WqTB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2a9WqTB) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I then bolted it back on the car, and pushed it outside (until it pissed it down):
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1793/43170723175_473a46975e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28LReXn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28LReXn) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1773/43358763134_ccd162ef71_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/294sZFC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/294sZFC) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I need to do some tweaking on the machined items, one of the bearing houses is more interference fit than i'd like and is binding:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1796/42268171350_e8553a5205_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27p6qK1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27p6qK1) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Also under full droop on lock the castle nut binds on the housing slightly, I need to reduce the effective length of the drop pin by 20mm, so I can fit some additional misalignment spacers and kill two birds with one stone:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/29140053527_73d6a98ba0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lp1oFZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Lp1oFZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
It's also running 12.5' castor at the moment, so I need to dial that back slightly! I'm certain you can have too much of a good thing :chin:
Still, it's on 4 wheels which is a milestone, I don't have steering arms yet, but this means I can get it out the garage as we've moving house in a few weeks
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/44077083151_759b1aacb0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a9Wzcv)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2a9Wzcv) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Cheers
Pete
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Got the reduced drop pins back from the machine shop, so stuck them on and dug out the windscreen and other panels, then pushed it outside.
Currently running some interesting geometry...
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1860/29196909287_53c7af9ff5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lu2MVH)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Lu2MVH) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1883/42325962220_cceb447de4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27ucBXj)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27ucBXj) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1863/44134761701_533fbd327f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2af3c2g)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2af3c2g) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1859/30266986558_d6d64ac422_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N7AdBQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/N7AdBQ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1873/44134764991_d85cef53ab_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2af3cZZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2af3cZZ) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/29196910237_6b8f529d6f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Lu2Nd6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Lu2Nd6) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Apart from bolting a few bits back in, this is about as far as I will get for a while. It's going off to have the inlet system fabricated and a few other bits of TIG welding completed that I can't do at home.
Cheers
Pete
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I love this work so much! Can’t wait to see it all finished and running.
Quick question as I can’t find the info in the post anymore, but what wheel studs you using? Looking at fitting a set on my car and looking at TRS kit.
Any recommendations?
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Thanks, these are M14 ones from Design 911 - I've used ones from Rally Nuts previously, just make sure they're a rolled thread with a decent shoulder to tighten against :)
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Awesome project coming together nicely
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Dude, I've only been gone 2 weeks and you go and stick more wacky tin plate on! I think you need more adult company. Stay away from Dave and get more fresh air! Hope you calm down soon.
;)
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So I collected this at the weekend, garage was cleared of crap so it had some place warm and dry to live in.
It's been away having a few parts TIG welded, namely the inlet manifold, boost pipes, exhaust/downpipe and manifold modified.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47624103261_f8ea1b2466_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fynYGD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2fynYGD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Boost pipes have been built to eliminate as many silicone joiners as possible, and house 1/8NPT bosses for a variety of transducers & thermocouples:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47624103261_f8ea1b2466_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fynYGD)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2fynYGD) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Tial BOV welded on fairly close to the compressor housing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46708617285_4c5248c64b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eatSBF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2eatSBF) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47571314042_75b03e8126_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ftHqiG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2ftHqiG) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Inlet manifold was then fabricated, I wanted this to use a larger VR6 throttle body, but still retain the standard AGU runners and injector bosses (and critically angle) so I can use a stock fuel rail and FPR.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33746807018_55bf46142f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Tq6d1j)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Tq6d1j) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
Final piece was to modify the Nortech manifold - slightly annoying as they position the wastegate so it clashes with the gearshift cables, I'd ask for a small flexible section to be welded onto the dump tube, this hasn't been done so I'm half expecting it to crack, but time will tell:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46899807494_209541b6fc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2esnLNA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2esnLNA) by Peter Strange (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135959304@N05/), on Flickr
I'm also going back to the drawing board regarding steering rack/arms brickwall
All for now!
Pete
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It looks fast anyway
how come you're re-thinking the steering rack & arms arrangement?
(#shouldveboughtagolf)
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Amazing project, hope it’s still going :)