Author Topic: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?  (Read 2828 times)

Offline vwmk3jon

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Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« on: October 25, 2009, 10:48:53 am »
Traced the leak back on my charger to around the pulley so guess' are the seals leaking.

Can I get at it by removing the pulley or by undoing the bolts and removing the sideplate?

Cheers ;)

Offline The Duck

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Re: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2009, 11:13:59 pm »
Hi Jon,
Undo the bolt holding the pulley on and you will have to hold the pulley somehow without damaging it (vice with wood jaw protectors worked for me) and you will have to physically work it out.
There are 3 pins that protrude from the mesh gears that are 1/4" diameter mating with the pulley IIRC. These are somewhere around 10-15mm long and will need some persuation to come out of the aligning holes in the pulley.
On the pulley you should then have a ground oil seal collar and a ground bearing seat collar that should be a press fit and bonded to the pulley. Early pulleys had no mating collar for the seal, they simply cut through the anodising so Steve changed the design.
On my charger the bearing seat had come loose. I have re-bonded this in place. Please let me know what condition yours is in?
You should drain all the oil and please check it for swarf. Rinse with solvent and clean before refill. Mine had lots of metallic swarf in there and I think it is wear from the mesh gears although the rotors do not clash and boost is still strong. I would suggest you get hold of 2 x 4oz bottles of the official eaton oil from ebay or some mini place. I am trialling 0 weight mobil 1.
Putting the seal back on without damaging the lip is a challenge but a new seal should be cheap. Try bearingboys.com or your local bearing shop. You may wish to put slightly less oil in than the full 2 bottles as the charger has less internal volume than the original design.
Dont forget to torque the bolt up with the pulley in the wood protected vice jaws.

An alternative is to remove the whole faceplate but you will need to use sealant to refix the plate.

I am considering my options to manufacture a better pulley setup for the eaton that retains the plastic coupler in the original design. In my opinion Steve was a little short sighted to remove this and I think is the cause of the tooth wear on engine/charger backlash. I am also going for ribbed belts as I believe this will be more resilient than the crappy toothed setup which eats belts. I will have one more attempt to align the current setup with the engine on a bench before I ditch the design and build my own.

If you want to have a chat please feel free to send me a PM with your no.

All the best mate

Andrew  ;)

Offline vwmk3jon

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Re: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2009, 06:36:03 pm »
cheers for that. I'm planning to start stripping it down this week to check it over.

Where did you get your oil from? Was it expensive?

Offline vwmk3jon

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Re: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2010, 07:28:19 pm »
Right. Got the pulley bolt off finally. Understand there's 3 little pins locking into the back of the pulley and I'm just wondering how you get the pulley off without damaging anything? Hammer it off?

Offline giorgio

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Re: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2010, 04:12:02 pm »
bearing puller

Offline vwmk3jon

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Re: Eaton pulley seal renewal - how?
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2010, 08:23:04 pm »
Sod that. With alot of help from my mate, we got the pulley off.

Got a new seal from a local bearings place but it's 1mm narrower so we'll see if it makes a difference. Just need to source a bottle of oil and I can get it back together.