PPP Chip and Cams

[physicsfool]

Just wondering if the G40002 map works best with a certain cam? or are the tolerances fairly high?

I have a GT inlet, ported psd charger, dewedged TB and 65mm pulley.

I checked and i am running an AHD box at the moment, so swapping it out for an ATV one when i have checked all the gears on the one i bought.

most of my miles are A roads and smaller country roads. looking for a cam that will utilise my mods but wont stress the engine too much mid/fast road sort of thing.

Advice appreciated

[Andy]

If you're looking at the usual asymmetric 254/276 G40 cams from Piper or Schrick then it'll be fine. It's when you go for something hugely lairy or more symmetrical in duration that the chip won't work so well.

[physicsfool]

Cheers for that Andy, I will send dolla for a chip in the next few days. Probably go for the G40002 map and invest in the piper cam

[physicsfool]

OK so i bought the G40002 chip and set of new INA tappets along with the piper G40BP270H cam. now i will be fitting it all tomorrow along with the 65mm pulley on the charger.
my question is about running the cam in.
I have had the tappets sat in engine oil for 2 days now so they should be fully lubricated. I read a piece jezza posted that says run the car at 2500rpm for 15 mins. just dont let it idle

don't fancy getting this wrong. cheers

[Etches]

Or just go on a steady drive dude, either keeps the oil pressure up while the cam and tappets bed in.

[Yoof]

Piper should have sent you instructions with it?

The requirement to run at 2500rpm depends on how the oil is fed to the camshaft- if it's a splash lubricated cam in a well of oil, then you need decent engine rpm for the crank to flick oil up to the camshaft ala pushrod V8. OHC engines are slightly different and will have lubricated camshaft bearings/journals.

I would:

1- Install cam
2- Tighten all caps down evenly to torque, and angle (M7 helicoil required if they pull!)
3- Turn engine over by hand (remove plugs) and check clearance on camshaft to tappet chest, you should be fine with this Piper
4- Check cam timing
5- Refit rocker cover etc
6- Unplug Hall sender/fuel rail
7- Turn engine over (plugs still out) until oil pressure achieved (if you have no gauge you can hear a difference in sound)
8- Install plugs, and refit hallsender/fuel rail connector
9- Check cam timing
10- Start engine
11- Adjust ignition timing once warm
12- Check any bolts (camshaft sprocket) after a few miles

Job done  

[physicsfool]

excellent. Cheers gents

[physicsfool]

Roughly how long does I take for the oil pressure to be achieved. Having starting issue. Struggling to start. Tried moving the dizzy about. But that only helps so much and still won't start.

How much out will the ignition timing be from my old cam?

Cheers

[Jezza-7]

oil pressure wont take long about 3-4secs to get gauge reading. If its fresh oil, i used to crank engine over and it take about 15 secs or so to get pressure. Timing not out?

[physicsfool]

Yeah timing is out. But timed the cam up and now ignition timing is out. But moved the dizzy full lock both ways and it's still not starting

[Jezza-7]

Have you checked firing order? sparks actually working?

[physicsfool]

Yeah checked that multiple times as I missed that one last time. All the spark plugs are good. Fuel is good. Order is 1-3-4-2.
When I crank it by hand it's a lot harder then with the previous cam. Would have thought the tappets would have eased up by now!

[Yoof]

Have you turned it over without the plugs in and the rocker cover off?

[physicsfool]

Yeah by hand and then took the fuel and hall sender off and turned it over using ignition(rocker cover was back on for this one)

I will pop the original chip in tomorrow to see if that may be playing a part

[Yoof]

Clearance to tappet chest was okay?