timing help:-( help needed badly now as the thing just wont time up

Started by youngprodigys, August 25, 2011, 09:14:13 AM

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youngprodigys

im in a bit of a panic, cant seem to get the timing correct on my G40 turbo.
i have a dial test indicator i have borrowed from work to work out dead top centre but it just seams to be out.
the 1.3 lower pulley i have used has the timing mark on it but appears to be 1 tooth out??? so i made my own timing mark on the pull about 1 inch along.
had anyone else had this issue???

anyone near coventry want to earn a few quid this weekend giving me a hand?

i have a proprt snap on timing gun so getting the advance dialled in is easy- i just cant work out where i shud be on the lower pulley.

any help appreciated
Kieran

hayesey

I would ignore the timing mark on the pulley and use the DTI gauge.  Also what timing pointer are you using?

youngprodigys

using the lower model spec one. with the "Z" and "0" on it.
ive taken my G40 one off and mislayed it so i cant even put the old one back on. bloody car knows how to make me mad:-(

ereeiz

I would offer to help but I need to sort my rear axle (bushes, bearings, brakes, suspension) on mine so doubt I'll have the time :/
Not a million miles away though so could come over one evening next week after work perhaps? I work in Solihull so shouldn't take long to get to there!

I've got my std G40 pulley if you wanted to borrow that? Toothed belts now so no use to me. I would want it back though.

youngprodigys

i might take you up on that offer if i havent sorted it by then. your more then welcome to do any work to your car at mine if you need any help at the same time.

ive got a psd phase 2 toothed belt kit sat on my work bench- iv just lost the lower G40 timing cover in the last 2days for some strange reason:-S

does anybody know if the 1.3 model lower timing cover "0" mark is the same as the G40 timing pointer mark? if someone could confirm that id be able to use my old pulley to confirm

Andy

If you're able to make up a TDC mark using the dial gauge then you're sorted. Put 6 deg advance into the timing light, run the motor up to temp, unplug blue temp sender, and tweak the dizzy 'til your TDC marks line up again under the light.

I wouldn't worry about the bottom pulley being out - the crank is a PY one, but the pulley isn't, so there's no guarantee that they're the same - plus what timing pointer are you using? The CL pulley uses a pointer on the cambelt cover, which is in a different position to the metal PY pointer.

dub-disaster

Quote from: Andy on August 25, 2011, 05:23:19 PM
I wouldn't worry about the bottom pulley being out - the crank is a PY one, but the pulley isn't, so there's no guarantee that they're the same - plus what timing pointer are you using? The CL pulley uses a pointer on the cambelt cover, which is in a different position to the metal PY pointer.

I didnt relise this did my timing today and ive got a cl pulley and cl pointer does this mean that as its a py crank the timing mark will be out ?? As when i did tdc with a DTI when doing my cam timing i forgot to mark the pulley so cant use that as a pointer either not sure if this is making my motor run rough (although this may be a seprate issue !

youngprodigys

andy - thats exactly what i wanted to know- the PY is in a different position. im just going to mark it up and place my own marks on. cheers mate

Andy

I haven't got a good baseline to compare, as my G40 timing marker was bent - but I did the mechanical timing on my motor with a DTI gauge, and the PY pulley and pointer lined up pretty well for TDC. After swapping to the CL stuff it seems out by a few degrees - but timing to the plastic cambelt cover can't be that accurate anyway!

If you've got DTI gauges, mark up TDC with them, then use that TDC mark to time it up with a dial-in advance light.

youngprodigys

when i first swapped it it looked close- but to my horror tdc was 1 tooth out! so the eaton cams nobody can time up properly- i may have found the problem! i used tipex to mark the belt so it cudnt be wrong when i marked the belt.
im going to mark the "0" & "z" marks up on my new pulley as per the psd pulley marks and when i have found TDC i will mark the cover with a new pointer mark instead of "0" & "z"

youngprodigys

starting to want to burn it again.
its ridiculous it really is- i set the timing with the gun with the blue temperature sender unplugged (revs rise) and get it pretty good, then as soon as it is plugged back in it goes miles out when i point the timing gun at it.

surely thats not normal?

should i set it so that the timing is correct to the gun when the blue sender is plugged back in? so im basically setting it miles out- and then its correct when i turn it on?

i hate this car so much, its been nothing but shit ever since i bought it. got oil in number 2 cylinder aswell which means the engines going to be
dead soon anyway.

AlexG40

IIRC you set it with the blue temp sender unplugged as the engine is in service mode with steady and slightly higher revs.  Once the plug is back in the ECU starts to get involved and you've got no chance.

youngprodigys

i do unplug it - ive set it by the book, its just when i put the blue plug back in and have a look with the timing light its bloody miles out. + its hard to start.

is it normal to be bloody miles out after you have set it 6degress advance (running sweet) put blue plug back in and its out.

should i check for fault codes? will this affect anything?

AlexG40

If it runs nice with it out and shit with it in it suggests that another sensor is perhaps giving a duff reading. It could be that unplugging the BTS on top of this is enough to push the ECU into limp where it will run quite nicely. I had a similar issue with mine having got the knock sensor, CO pot and TPS all the wrong way.  :-X