Club G40 Forum
Technical => Turbochargers => Topic started by: youngprodigys on August 25, 2011, 09:14:13 am
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im in a bit of a panic, cant seem to get the timing correct on my G40 turbo.
i have a dial test indicator i have borrowed from work to work out dead top centre but it just seams to be out.
the 1.3 lower pulley i have used has the timing mark on it but appears to be 1 tooth out??? so i made my own timing mark on the pull about 1 inch along.
had anyone else had this issue???
anyone near coventry want to earn a few quid this weekend giving me a hand?
i have a proprt snap on timing gun so getting the advance dialled in is easy- i just cant work out where i shud be on the lower pulley.
any help appreciated
Kieran
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I would ignore the timing mark on the pulley and use the DTI gauge. Also what timing pointer are you using?
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using the lower model spec one. with the "Z" and "0" on it.
ive taken my G40 one off and mislayed it so i cant even put the old one back on. bloody car knows how to make me mad:-(
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I would offer to help but I need to sort my rear axle (bushes, bearings, brakes, suspension) on mine so doubt I'll have the time :/
Not a million miles away though so could come over one evening next week after work perhaps? I work in Solihull so shouldn't take long to get to there!
I've got my std G40 pulley if you wanted to borrow that? Toothed belts now so no use to me. I would want it back though.
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i might take you up on that offer if i havent sorted it by then. your more then welcome to do any work to your car at mine if you need any help at the same time.
ive got a psd phase 2 toothed belt kit sat on my work bench- iv just lost the lower G40 timing cover in the last 2days for some strange reason:-S
does anybody know if the 1.3 model lower timing cover "0" mark is the same as the G40 timing pointer mark? if someone could confirm that id be able to use my old pulley to confirm
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If you're able to make up a TDC mark using the dial gauge then you're sorted. Put 6 deg advance into the timing light, run the motor up to temp, unplug blue temp sender, and tweak the dizzy 'til your TDC marks line up again under the light.
I wouldn't worry about the bottom pulley being out - the crank is a PY one, but the pulley isn't, so there's no guarantee that they're the same - plus what timing pointer are you using? The CL pulley uses a pointer on the cambelt cover, which is in a different position to the metal PY pointer.
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I wouldn't worry about the bottom pulley being out - the crank is a PY one, but the pulley isn't, so there's no guarantee that they're the same - plus what timing pointer are you using? The CL pulley uses a pointer on the cambelt cover, which is in a different position to the metal PY pointer.
I didnt relise this did my timing today and ive got a cl pulley and cl pointer does this mean that as its a py crank the timing mark will be out ?? As when i did tdc with a DTI when doing my cam timing i forgot to mark the pulley so cant use that as a pointer either not sure if this is making my motor run rough (although this may be a seprate issue !
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andy - thats exactly what i wanted to know- the PY is in a different position. im just going to mark it up and place my own marks on. cheers mate
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I haven't got a good baseline to compare, as my G40 timing marker was bent - but I did the mechanical timing on my motor with a DTI gauge, and the PY pulley and pointer lined up pretty well for TDC. After swapping to the CL stuff it seems out by a few degrees - but timing to the plastic cambelt cover can't be that accurate anyway!
If you've got DTI gauges, mark up TDC with them, then use that TDC mark to time it up with a dial-in advance light.
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when i first swapped it it looked close- but to my horror tdc was 1 tooth out! so the eaton cams nobody can time up properly- i may have found the problem! i used tipex to mark the belt so it cudnt be wrong when i marked the belt.
im going to mark the "0" & "z" marks up on my new pulley as per the psd pulley marks and when i have found TDC i will mark the cover with a new pointer mark instead of "0" & "z"
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starting to want to burn it again.
its ridiculous it really is- i set the timing with the gun with the blue temperature sender unplugged (revs rise) and get it pretty good, then as soon as it is plugged back in it goes miles out when i point the timing gun at it.
surely thats not normal?
should i set it so that the timing is correct to the gun when the blue sender is plugged back in? so im basically setting it miles out- and then its correct when i turn it on?
i hate this car so much, its been nothing but shit ever since i bought it. got oil in number 2 cylinder aswell which means the engines going to be
dead soon anyway.
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IIRC you set it with the blue temp sender unplugged as the engine is in service mode with steady and slightly higher revs. Once the plug is back in the ECU starts to get involved and you've got no chance.
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i do unplug it - ive set it by the book, its just when i put the blue plug back in and have a look with the timing light its bloody miles out. + its hard to start.
is it normal to be bloody miles out after you have set it 6degress advance (running sweet) put blue plug back in and its out.
should i check for fault codes? will this affect anything?
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If it runs nice with it out and shit with it in it suggests that another sensor is perhaps giving a duff reading. It could be that unplugging the BTS on top of this is enough to push the ECU into limp where it will run quite nicely. I had a similar issue with mine having got the knock sensor, CO pot and TPS all the wrong way. :-X
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What map is it running?
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all my sensors are correct. it was running on my eaton charger. and i did my own custom loom
so i know the wires are perfect pin to pin.
map is what came with the kit- im starting to think this could have the issues. ive took it out for a drive and it runs ok ish, hunts like hell when i pull up to stop but acceleration is ok if a bit lumpy.
actuator cuts boost at 5psi at the minute so no chance of detonation:-) mr forge actuator should be here soon!
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Hmmm..is there any identification to the map...any indication if it's targeted at your spec or something very close?
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its got tom k03 250cc on it.
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its ridiculous it really is- i set the timing with the gun with the blue temperature sender unplugged (revs rise) and get it pretty good, then as soon as it is plugged back in it goes miles out when i point the timing gun at it.
surely thats not normal?
I've just had a thought... The ECU will manage idle speed by advancing/retarding the ignition timing - so what you're observing could well be perfectly normal.
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yer but when i rev it to about 3k its a good inch out! so that like 25/30 degrees!
i think i really need another car against mine to check it against really to see whats different and what it should be doing.
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It's normal for the timing to jump around massively one the bts is plugged back in. As Chris rightly said, that's how the ECU controls trhe idle speed. If the revs are gunting around with the timing set, then I'd be checking idle speed settings. If idle speed is way too high or too low, or there's a sticking throttle or other air leak, the ECU will not be able to stabilise the idle with ignition timing alone - it'll have a bloody good go though, which is why the revs will hunt around.
I'm still away at the moment dude - are you going to Actiobn at the weekend? If so I can have a look there. Also be worth finding out where that chip came from so you know what spec it's for.
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idles at 800/900revs. i dont think theres an air leak as the idle screw is pretty responsive.
im at edition not action. going to try setting the timing at 3k and getting someone to help (so its not on idle switch) take it for a drive and see. what my mate suggests is dialling in 10degrees advance and seeing what it does and then 9,8,7 etc and see how it runs.
will lambda position make a difference? ie on downpipe rather than original position behind the engine?
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oh, and my plugs are brown on the ends = bad timing
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problem solved. engines throw a valve. pretty mad how it still does 70mph and quick of the light when it has 3 cylinders:-S
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=[ gaaaaaaay
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me and guy (mclovin) have smashed it and fitted a new cylinder head. all is cock on and running mint:-) only the fact that the forge actuator i have isnt correct is stopping me from full boostings.
weird really - the actuator rod isnt long enough to fit. yet the bracket is perfect.
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Outstanding!
Actuator rod sounds a weird one. Any pics of it fitted?
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cant fit it:-( rod isnt long enough and the threads wrong. bracket is a passat/A4 bracket and has the correct part number on the box:-( ive called forge about it as it was brand new.
rod length is 97mm and full extended is 110mm- not long enough!!!
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Good to hear you got it sorted mate 8)
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why did it throw a valve???
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pistons hit it for reasons unknown. not a big hit either, the piston barely has a mark on it.
it scares me how long this has been like it for.
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Are you sure that the piston to valve contact is the cause and not a result of the thrown valve? Would be weird for only one valve to be affected.
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well its the cause as to it being bent! theres a small mark on the piston to confirm this - why it did is unknown as it could have been foreign object holding the valve open, sticky valve or anything.