bottom end part numbers needed big end bolts.

[supercharged spaniel]

im planning on a freash rebuild next summer just to pass the 6 weeks i have off and ive started to collect parts now.  just to confirm, for the bottom end bearings wise i need:

excuse the lack of correct terminalogy in places

big end? bearings (crank shaft to block)
bearings (conrod to crank)
Thrust washers
main end bolts
bolts/nuts for the conrods

now i cant find anywhere the part numbers for the bolts for the main end and cant remember if there are nuts here too.  from memory there isnt?

please can someone get a part number for me before i ring th dealers and am told anything.  im also gonna send the block to an engineering specialist to be all tolerenced up for the bearings etc but wanna know the score first..last time steve at psd got the nuts and bolts sent to me but dunno what am asking for this time.  they are strecth bolts i know that so gotta be changed ideally.

also if i buy a new oil pump should i buy a new chain too? or just use the old one?

thanks...dan

[supercharged spaniel]

i know there are other bits like crank bolt etc but just interested in ones mentioned thanks

[breadman]

Sorry, I haven't got a clue with any part numbers Dan.
However, so you can ask for the correct parts, the "mains" are the bearings in which the crank runs in the block. The "big end bearings" are the con rod to crank ones.
Personally, if you're gonna change the oil pump I'd replace the chain too - they're only cheap.
The main bearings use bolts only. Don't forget new flywheel bolts too.

If you are sending the bottom end off to a machine shop, block wise just get them to hone the bores and lightly "deck" the block for the new head gasket. Then get them to thoroughly degrease it.
The crank shouldn't need anything more than its journals measuring (and regrinding only if neccessary). I assume you'll be fitting new rings to the pistons? If so get them to remove the old rings and clean the pistons, along with the rods and crank. Cleanliness really is the keyword here.
I know you like to keep everything O.E. but it would be nice to have the crank assembly balanced and a skim on the flywheel to reface it. Just makes for a nicer engine IMO.
Good luck Dan, keep us posted.

[supercharged spaniel]

lovely bit of advice there thank you.  ill take on board all that you have said.  already got fly wheel bolts on there too.  is it necessary to get the flywheel refaced? and the block re decked?  i only asked because i never had it done before and the gasket has sealed really well in the 44k ive done since replacement...as in it still isnt weeping in the corner where they often go..  ideally i'd like the engineer shop to do all the work you mentioned and hand me back the block all done. then i can put everything back together...i want it done properly with equipment i dont own ha ha

[breadman]

You don't have to deck the block Dan. They are normally ok, but if there is any evidence of pitting around the waterways, having the block face very lightly skimmed can eliminate the majority of its imperfections. Obviously, a fresh new face for the head gasket to bite into is ideal. The machine shop should know only a tiny cut is required on a standard rebuild, as reducing the deck height will increase the compression ratio. However, done properly it will be so fractional it won't be of any significance to worry the piston llife.
Have a look at the flywheel face when you remove the clutch. If there are any scores or any ridges, a skim will give your clutch plate a maximum flat surface area for it to work against.
Just a word of advise here, get the machine shop to fit the new rings to the pistons. Whilst you can do it yourself, you have to be very careful not to scratch or damage the piston skirt or ring land whilst fitting them. Pistons are surprisingly delicate and mark very easily. Remember to orientate the rings equally around the piston too.

[giorgio]

off the back of breadmans advice. Buy a spare set of piston rings. The last thing you want is to have to wait 2 weeks for another one to arrive from Germany after you broke one. 

I know we touched on this on msn - now its all apart its a shame not to get things done. I would suggest you get the engine blue-printed as much as your budget allows.

My bro got 8% increase in flow after he got his valves machined. Matching the rods/pistons etc will also up the power but also the reliability. And the benefit of all this is that the car will be stock [just better than VW]

No reason why you cant have a nice 130bhp on a stock engine. I have driven a blue-printed Mk2 golf GTi and I was blown away by how much nicer the engine was compared to my own.

Ring me mate and I will get ETKA on the buzz and can get you all the part numbers you need

[giorgio]

Crank Bearings [Set of 5] 026 198 491 A
Gudgeon Pin 052 105 431
Con Rod Bolt 052 105 425 A
Hex Nut [Rod Bolt] 052 105 427
Bearing [Rod to Crank] 031 105 701 A
Thrust Washers 026 198 421

Also get - 052 105 313. Its a bush that goes on the end of the crank between the flywheel.

[lance]

i was shocked when i done mine how much it all is! thrust washers 25 pound each!!!

[supercharged spaniel]

lads! brilliant advice cheers im compiling an excel sheet of everything needed with pices so ill get them up here eventually...however im still missing:

main end caps,  part numbers i just cannot find them on vagcat... there are 10 i think?

[giorgio]

what are they dude I don't get what you mean.

[breadman]

I think Dan means the main bearing cap bolts?
Yeah deffinately agree with Giorgio on the blueprinting front. Unfortunately, blueprinting is an expensive business due to the labour involved. Lots of measuring both dimensionally and in mass, plus assembling components and setting up on different machines to perform the neccessary machining.
A full balance of the crank assembly, c/w front pulley, flywheel and clutch cover all attatched is rarely done but is pretty much the ultimate in dynamic balancing.
All this machining work will cost a lot of money and TBH, I doubt you will notice much difference unless previously the engine was mechanically tired.
It is all relative to how your engine was before the build. Tolerances on old car engines were fairly poor by comparison of todays cars. Blueprinting is nothing more than optimising the standard components, allowing us to get the very best out of them. Whilst 130 bhp is probably possible on a completely standard G40, it'd take a lot of effort and money/time to do it.
If it were my money building a relatively standard engine, I'd just go for the hone (and deck if required) on the block, new rings/bearings/thrusts/bolts etc, reface the flywheel and a dynamic balance. Add a new oil pump and the job's done.

[supercharged spaniel]

yeah i do mean the main end caps. mine already has 130bhp and i dont want to increase it anymore thats just with decat/dewedge/full blend and derestricted air box so its defo possible with minimum work....that was rolling roaded at aldon a few years back.  i probably wont blue print it tbh but just do as you said honing the block etc...new oil pump etc