Unknown fault code, are any of these measurements well off?

[NealPeal]

Hello!
I've been battling to get the warning light to stay off... 30 seconds after starting it flashes the ! light, I hope I'm right thinking this is a management error... (If it's oil-pressure I'll kick myself
I'm getting "unKnown error"

Control Module Part Number: 030 906 022 c  Component and/or Version: DIGIFANT0864
1 Fault Found: 07683 - Unknown Error Code  08-10 -  Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

Anyone point me to anything from this...
A new o2 sensor didn't change much, the exhaust is sooty and jumps a bit until it goes limp...

any help appreciated, can I ask if any of these measurements look sus?


Bestest's
Neal :-)

[steveo3002]

-13 dont sound right

[NealPeal]

Paul did say that was normal to be weird, that's why I'd like a few "what yours' say" screenshots to compare.. When I've stuck a resistor across the sensor plug (about 1k) and made it measure 10' it still goes limp after 20 seconds ish…
 
I'm intrigued by the 1.6v, I've not managed to find any way of changing it. It'd be good if that's the CO pot and it is open-circiut I can look for that

The 0.49v o2 sensor is easy to trace, grounding the pin sends the reading low.

Can I check I am right, if the red light flashes that's an ecu fault..?

I was checking the earths a bit and taking my dvm anywhere near the engine makes it go mad flashing readings, even with both probes touching at the same point, esd picking up from somewhere... I had it between the battery and engine and when I saw a voltage I thought !Bingo!, but a jump-lead between those points still had the meter going bananas, until I stuck it behind the bulkhead

Maybe unrelated but big electro-magnetic spikes might be throwing the ECU, what d'you recon?
NEAL :-)

[steveo3002]

what does you tps show ..engine off pedal to the floor?

[hayesey]

what do you mean by warning light?  There's no ecu fault light in a G40.

Getting a crazy reading from the inlet air temp sensor is normal.  The software just doesn't seem to decode it properly.  I usually see values of -20.

I don't know what that fault code is, not sure if VWTOOL.EXE would tell you more, that's what I always used.  Finding a list of G40 Digifant fault codes seems to be impossible.  There's a few lists for G60 Digifant I came across Google searching but none list that code.  E.G.

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/codes/digifant1g60.html

The only thing I found is someone on a german forum asking the same question but no one answers it:

https://www.polotreff.de/forum/t/233938

[hayesey]

also, the thread I linked to in the other thread you have on the same subject lists what the code blocks are:

https://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=213.0

the 1.6v you are seeing is the CO pot voltage will be stable unless you adjust the co pot manually.

There is no TPS on a G40.

[hayesey]

I've been battling to get the warning light to stay off... 30 seconds after starting it flashes the ! light, I hope I'm right thinking this is a management error... (If it's oil-pressure I'll kick myself

the only thing I could think that would be is the oil pressure warning light.  There's no management error light, g40s aren't that fancy

[NealPeal]

Cheers H, appreciated! :-)
I'm not convinced it's the oil pressure light because I'd expect that beeping when I've left the wire off.. And it seems like an exact time from starting to blinking, like it's waiting for the o2 sensor to heat up..? There's plenty of oil flowing up to the rocker-box, I've got to do that gasket again! I can check by pulling the wire off, I did think that produced just a steady "on", I'll check

There's definitely a change in engine-attitude when the light starts to flash... I suppose I can try another pressure sender, worth a try...! And the exhaust is soot *black* and it's covered my new O2 sensor in soot (and all the plugs) after 30 seconds.! (I hope the head isn't cracked leaking oil into every cylinder equally or something, but it looks and smells like over-fueling, there's petrol in the air

But I have found the fully-open-throttle-switch isn't giving any changes on the meter on or off, ,the switches are making the click and the idle does what I think, but the ...
And sticking resistors in to change the CO pot voltage output (or unplugging it) seems to do nothing to the 1.6v, or anything else I've tried.

When I get back we'll have a look at the fully-open-switch.. If it thinks it's foot-flat I can imagine it throwing fuel in, especially at low RPM

Cool, the intrigue continues... I can't see that cat surviving so I'll probably have to frig the CO pot, if it works like that!
10 x 10^6 thanks
NEAL

[hayesey]

No G40 has ever had any kind of engine management light what so ever.  There is no way whatever you are looking at is an engine management warning light. 

what wire are you removing?  Can you get a photo of the light you are seeing?

The beeping only starts in addition to the oil pressure light above a certain RPM (2.5k if I remember correctly).   If there is a sudden drop or rise in oil pressure then it could well be coupled with a noticable difference in the engine sound as there's a difference in the pressure in all the bearing shells. 

If you think there may be a pressure issue then really you need to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge.  I run one on mine all the time mounted to the dash.

Where are you testing the WOT switch?  At the ECU connector or directly on the contacts on the throttle body?  In either case you should get continuity when the switch is activated.  But this will only cause a problem under full throttle conditions, it'll idle and run under part throttle just fine, you'll just get no power (and potential engine damage!) at full throttle as it wont be putting enough fuel in.

[NealPeal]

You are "that genius" Paul, I know to ask you stuff because I know you've actually done stuff in reality...….! 1 million million (a terra '10^12') thanks...!!!

Guess what, you've got me going! I owe you a BIG  DRINK!!

There was an pressure oil-sender, the charger one, if I leave the wire off there's a beeping and flashing, and it's crimp was a "bit" loose... The other one, if I take it off, waits 20 seconds to flash with no beep... There's a "warning control unit" in the instrument panel that controls the light and buzzer... I guess it waits a moment for the lower pressure (presumably the charger) to build up....! (but I will check the charger isn't throwing oil)

NO 1 LESSON for Me, assumption is the mother of all my fcups…! I must be remembering a different car, or place, or time or dimension..! My memory is *ravaged*, so it's great to ask someone with one at home...!!!

So now there seems no flashy light, no smell of petrol, no back smoke, maybe the new o2 sensor was OK and that was the actual fault..!

Don't ever trust my knowledge unless it involves MCU or C#, engines are just too much!!!

There is an output on the ECU for a light, I might just add one...!!!! If it passes an MOT I'd be surprised with a 15 year-old cat on, but I can hunt for the CO trimpot adjustment or just make it with resistors.....


YOU ARE THE VERY BEST, and thanks SteveO for the encouragement...
I do feel a bit daft, but hey, if you saw me on stage that's 10 times worse so I'm used to it.!
NEAL :-D

[hayesey]

interesting, so does it seem to be working all ok now then?  Bit surprised that disconnecting/reconnecting the oil pressure sensor can have any effect on the running of the engine, that system isn't even connected to the ECU it's a pretty simple electrical thing controlled by the dash clocks. 

Anyway if it's now working then it's now working so all is good!

[steveo3002]

pretty sure the oil light wouldnt effect the running

[NealPeal]

Yeah sorry, "fixed" I meant the light!! But if that's not a limp light, the new O2 sensor has fixed the over-fuelling it just needed blowing out I recon...

I was starting to wonder, (because of the soot and  it is still making quite clicky noises but maybe that's me being oversensitive), is the charger oil is actually getting through a seal worst case guess...
But then after I've had it running for an hour or 2 today to clear some soot and there's become much less soot being blown out with the condensation, and it doesn't smell as badly of various hydrocarbons... A new O2 sensor might even have cured that fault.. The first test will be an MOT CO and HC test reading...

I do need to get an oil-o-meter, maybe even mounted in the car. Always useful info, even if not for me

Upto recently the car's not been started 10 times since the engine re-fresh 10 years ago, the whole lot really needs blowing out. I am sure at the time I would have changed the oil pump along with the bearings, rings & and seals... If it turns out not good I'll be gutted after having the engine out!!

Cool though, I can go away without that on my mind... Just found the part number thread for 2 oil senders, I might just order them and pop them in when I'm back..

Cool, bestest's
NEAL

[steveo3002]

has it got old fuel in?  my g60 stood a couple of years and was rich as hell on old fuel , once some new stuff got through it was fine

[NealPeal]

Old fuel? Funny that is.. !! :-D That would explain a *lot* yes, appreciated input rhere Steve!

Yes, the tank-dregs from when someone milked it (or the pump really did just fall off in the wind)  were very old.. Couple of weeks ago I had it only nearly start because of the bubblea few weeks ago..  That got mixed with the can of petrol in the boot of the same age - just to get it going...  it'd been in there 10 years must be...
And every time I've put more petrol in it's got a lot better, yes...!! I really hadn't thought of that, I am glad of your insight! Explains a bit more.. I recon I killed the old o2 sensor but for £15 really doesn'r matter to make it

Just the oil-pressure to check to fully rectify the un-known fault, I can't wait to get home and get a meter on it just to be sure it's the

All signs are positive, and thanks to the forum I am more confident about it it...!
Cheeers, drinks owed to you all
NEAL
(Anyone near Denmark hill come say hello :-P)