Author Topic: Chassis advice  (Read 3880 times)

Offline physicsfool

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Chassis advice
« on: April 26, 2014, 01:36:53 pm »
Afternoon chaps,

Was cleaning up part of the engine bay to start welding supports and came across what looks to be a front end nudge! Will a decent welder be able to sort it? Or is it fatal?






Underside:




Cheers



Offline z3i

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2014, 02:17:27 pm »
Ryan had very similar to this
I'd definitely buy a stage two mate. Bolt it up to the car then weld the cracks up and do the strengthening. I think you'll need a frame dude

Offline physicsfool

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2014, 02:28:57 pm »
Nice, was his drivers or passengers side?

Offline Etches

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2014, 04:48:40 pm »
If your getting a frame dont mess around with anything less than a s3  :P . I'd do the yoof strengthening mod aswell as stitching around the weak points too. Good spot though Martin!

Offline z3i

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2014, 06:47:16 pm »
Yeah, tom is right, all g40 legs are cracked haha. Ryans was drivers side, mine was passengers side

Offline randombadger69

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2014, 08:54:26 pm »


This has creased quite badly which has cracked any underseal and paint and allowed water in, which has caused corrosion. You won't be able to weld this. Best to as mentioned get a subframe to act as a jig, then either cut this rusty section which has cracked out and butt a new piece in or lap a sheet over it and stitch it to clean metal.

The gearbox area looks clean enough, I'd attempt welding the crack here.

Best bet is to get everything as clean as possible. Any underseal present will make things an arse. Rust patches will just disappear when you try and weld them or stalagmites full of porosity will appear.

I have taken to using a blowtorch to carbonise under seal before welding. Although be careful not to put too much heat into anything to avoid distortion.

I used countersunk m5 or m6 (can't remember which) screws and tacked them to the sheet to replace any studs used to fix the plastic hose clips. Best to do this with a TIG welder to get good pen. and not blob loads of weld metal onto it. Or drill a hole and tack a screw head on the back of the sheet if possible.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2014, 09:12:50 pm by randombadger69 »

Offline z3i

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2014, 09:57:34 pm »
Ryans was creased really bad but after welding it up and doing vw repairs with steel plates and yoofs chassis leg reinforcement it looks stronger than ever!!
Yeah that's what I used a subframew for as my legs were a good inch out so used it as.a jig when welding

Offline physicsfool

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2014, 09:24:04 am »
Thanks for the advice chaps I will get hold of a subframe and find a welder. Don't think my skills are up to it!

Offline z3i

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2014, 10:54:35 am »
Thanks for the advice chaps I will get hold of a subframe and find a welder. Don't think my skills are up to it!

Practice practice practice dude, if it doesn't work you can always grind the welds out and start a fresh, just make sure you penitrate like hell!! Don't want any protruding welds,
Also drill the ends of the cracks out to stop the crack from carrying on, then fill the drilled area with good weld

Check yoofs thread for his chassis leg modification, he used tubeular steel, Ryan used sheet steel and made a triangle like box from it, either way it will be a billion times stronger

Might be worth stitch welding a few stress areas too, like the gearbox mount etc for peace of mind :) and possibly where the steering rack goes as that flexes really back, once we stitched Ryans one up the differences where amazing!! No movement at all!!

Offline RyanC

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Re: Chassis advice
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2014, 01:36:39 pm »
Mine was cracked both ns and os a lot worse than that mate it will be okay with a frame and some welding work :) mine was that bad it started the bend the inner wing were all the stress was going through that and not the chassis leg the only thing holding my osf chassis leg on was the inner wing!!