gearbox and engine oil?!

[z3i]

Long story short, either opie oils or i have fudged up ordering, i spent nearly a month deciding what box and engine oil to use

i decided on millers 75-90 box oil
and fuchs titan pro s full synthetic ester 10w 40 oil
somehow ive ended up with the same brand and make but 10w 50 engine and 75-80 box
checked my reciepts and it says the same. Not like i said i spent frickin ages choosing these and pretty darn sure i wouldnt have cocked up.
Will the oils be ok? Box oil is a bit late as ive already put it in, is probably only going to be in there 6 months. But would be great for some reasurance
thanks peeps

[Jezza-7]

When i spoke to TPS on saturday, he said if i was you i would always stay with 10W40 part synthetic. Dont get full synthetic.
 
I got redline full synthetic and found no difference. At the time, the something in the charger didnt like it and it sucked all the oil out the engine. I got millers after that but for the price of them oils and VW's (used to be synta silver) £14 for 5 litres i have never noticed the difference, except spending more money.

I have always run millers hypoid:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/showproduct.aspx?ProductID=60272&SEName=millers-oils-hypoid-80w-90-gl5-gear-oil

Haynes says SAE 80 or 75W-90

[Jezza-7]

Also it says that the gear oil you got is also known as GL4/GL5 which is fine to use.

I personally wouldn't run full synthetic and especially 10W50.

[z3i]

Thanks mate, dammit! Cost me a fortune! Opie oils said fully synthetic would be better. Ive always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering

atleast the gear oil will be ok then, yeah its gl5 and 4
whats this about yours sucking all the oil up? Is that because it was fully synthetic?

back to the drawing board
thanks again mate

[z3i]

Did it damage the charger/engine when it did a bo bo?

[hayesey]

Ive always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering

10w40 is the ideal oil and what I've always used in 10 years of g40 ownership.  If those things are happening it's because something is wrong, I don't think changing the oil is likely to do anything but cause more problems.

I'm not sure what you mean by breaking down but loosing oil pressure in light cornering, I'd be looking at the condition of the oil pump, the pickup and the sump. 

[z3i]

I mean when the oil gets hot its pressure drops. If i go round the same corner with a fairly cold ish engine it doesnt come on even if i go round quite hard, whereas if ive been out blasting it round some country roads and oil is really hot when i go round the same corner the buzzer comes on if you get me

well if youve been using it for 10 years with no problems maybe i have a worn oil pump? Sump is fine

ok well thanks for the help. Looks like i wont be using it lol

[Matty!]

Ive always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering

10w40 is the ideal oil and what I've always used in 10 years of g40 ownership.  If those things are happening it's because something is wrong, I don't think changing the oil is likely to do anything but cause more problems.

I'm not sure what you mean by breaking down but loosing oil pressure in light cornering, I'd be looking at the condition of the oil pump, the pickup and the sump. 

So do you still run Semi or you converted to fully synthetic now?

[hayesey]

semi-synth 10w40

[gaz g40]

Taylor have you got an oil cooler on? When mine got hot an i threw it into a bend the buzzer went off like mad fitted an oil cooler an alls good

[z3i]

Taylor have you got an oil cooler on? When mine got hot an i threw it into a bend the buzzer went off like mad fitted an oil cooler an alls good

i have not, been meaning to fit one for ages, just lack of fund lol
thanks very much for the usefull bit of info, will be my next investment
how extra oil do you put it when running a cooler? Thanks again

[RyanC]

Can't you get ur oil cheaper thro ur work Taylor?
And ur answer for how much Extra oil to put in if ur running a cooler, it depends what size ur running eg 10row 13 or 19 or other sizes but I would say put a extra .3 in let it get up to temp ( if u have a thermostatic plate) so the cooler is full up the turn it off the dip it till it reads max

I've always run 10-40 semi best stuff for that engine IMO

[z3i]

Yeah i get trade from tps £11 for 5 litres, i just dont trust is all, ill get an oil cooler fitted and go from there. I still cant see how semi is better than full synthetic, but if paul has been using it for 10 years pluss and never had trouble, im not gonna question it lol

cheers for that ryan, ill probably just get a small mocal 10 tow with thermo plate, can plug the oil temp sensor straight in there too when i get one

[hayesey]

I still cant see how semi is better than full synthetic

It's not as simple as the more synthetic is it, the better it is.  Older engines are better with more mineral oil content, they are designed that way. 

[scotsjohn]

That's true to some extent Paul; I think the interpretation  of "older" is something of a variable though. At twenty years, we tend to think of the G as old, but I reckon the relevant factor for oil choice is machining tolerances at the production stage. G's were produced at the cusp of mineral/synthetic availability, but wouldn't qualify for any added specific  recommendations from VW as mineral was doing the job OK. Doesn't mean that you can't improve on it though, does it?
Quite a lot of genuinely "old" cars are still run on quite heavy mineral oils as the machining
of the engines components was archaic by todays standards. Many though, having had full
engine rebuilds, make the change to synthetics as a matter of course.
Me? 10-60 synth.