Timing issue after full rebuild.

matthg40 · August 05, 2018, 05:11:32 PM

I've had my g rebuilt and sadly it came back running like a sack of spuds.i recently discovered the car came back with the timing was a tooth and a half out.so I've had ago at putting it right myself as I've done it numerous times but as soon as I line my marks up and put the belt on and attempt to tighten the water pump the crank pulley mark moves.does anyone have an explanation as to what could be the problem and how I rectify it please.

steveo3002 · August 05, 2018, 05:51:36 PM

set the crank where you want it then shove the car in gear , if its consistently pulling it round as you tension it then i would line it up one tooth out so that it falls into line when you tension the belt

turn it over a few times with a socket and double check the marks before starting

matthg40 · August 05, 2018, 08:51:03 PM

Nice one mate nobody has ever suggested putting it in gear will give it a try tomorrow thank you

NealPeal · August 05, 2018, 11:08:31 PM

I'd just check, it is the 0 mark on the pulley, there's a couple? I ask just because any tooth-misalignments will be integer multiples... think of it like h, the belt quantises the position.. Can't be half-teeth-out..
I feel for you I've just been through re oil-sealing that end, with the engine out first go and then again with the engine in and it is a pain when it's in! Remember to hang your belt-cover-clips on first would be what I learned from it...!
Best of luck Matt, the "in gear" tip is a good un I hopefully wont have to use, but it'll get stashed somewhere in the memory box now it's on the forum!

Cool
NEAL :-D

matthg40 · August 06, 2018, 12:07:54 AM

It's all lined up to the 0 ready to be fined tuned with my timing light when I get to that process.which cover clips are your referring to by the way?

matthg40 · August 06, 2018, 01:39:02 PM

Still having trouble the cam mark lines up perfect soon as I line the 0 mark up and attempt to tighten the water pump it moves past the 0 mark even with the car in gear.tried moving it forward past the mark so when it moves it compensates for the movement and the belt is far to tight and just jumps way past the 0 mark I'm scratching my head now unsure of what to try next

NealPeal · August 06, 2018, 06:36:32 PM

The water pump side of the belt on mine was loose when i stuck the belt on the pulleys last week, it made me put the long side under a bit of tension to make it line up, then the pump tightened into the space..
Dunno, stretchy belt.. if it fits the sprocket there cant be a lot wrong, unless there's a key missing from the sprocket and it is wrong on the shaft.?
Always easiest with the engine out, but the cam-cover clips hook on behind, took an hour to get one in!!!

Cool :-)
gNeal

matthg40 · August 06, 2018, 08:49:31 PM

I did think of a stretchy belt today actually was waiting to see if anyone mentioned it maybe a nice fresh belt could help things.clips are all on ready to go

NealPeal · August 07, 2018, 02:15:07 PM

This might sound daft but I have just noticed this...
On mine, the 0 and the Z is stamped on the pulley.. The plastic pointer is just a single point...
Is yours like this pic or like mine? I wouldn't be surprised if there's been a swap on mine somewhere along the bodies and engines I've had.! I'd be interested to know if this is a g thing, or if mines got a bigger v-pulley or something like one from the previous owner upto 10 years ago!

:-)
One way to test for a stretched belt, turn the engine with a socket 4 or 5 times with the pump just slightly tight.. If the belt's backing up over a sprocket then it is, but there'll be rubber damage visible on the teeth showing
NEAL

matthg40 · August 07, 2018, 03:49:02 PM

Mine had 0 first hen the z just going to have a quick play now while I have a spare hour.curious if there's a mark on the crank sprocket as I can't reallt see mine with engine in sadly

NealPeal · August 07, 2018, 04:31:52 PM

Yeah wierd init.. i am gonna have a look with the endoscope but i thought all the marks were on the pulley and just the 1 plaggy pointer.. a line next to ź and one for 0..
Lets see!

matthg40 · August 07, 2018, 04:41:51 PM

My marks are on my pulley and then line up with the metal pointer

NealPeal · August 07, 2018, 05:59:47 PM

Yeah thought so i dunno what that haynes drawing is then!!

matthg40 · August 07, 2018, 08:44:07 PM

That's for the none g40s I think mate but I appreciate your input very much you have been a massive help thank you

NealPeal · August 08, 2018, 12:08:42 AM

I'm appreciating some stuff to sort-of-play with where I can look at stuff on mine! Especially fun looking at things I've done recently because I can look again at mine in wonderment still.! (I wonder how she drives after all this time!).. I don't trust my memory so check everything twice I sometimes get a bit carried and mixed up!

Me and my dad just accept we'll argue about the belt timing, and we did twice this time, once with it all open and easy on the bench changing the crank oil seal and once in the car to change the previously unsuspected cam-seal (hence sprocket/belt off) It never looks quite right either way..
Next time I change the belt I'll leave the car in gear pushed up against the backlash to keep the crank still, I can say I learned that from this thread.!

-How I'd tell someone is-
Haynes describes a sprocket holding tool, not vital..., We set the cam mark at dot then used a socket on the bottom to line up near enough the 0 and then pull the 'bumper-side' of the belt (the long run) slightly taut using the socket, and check again. Then when we used a screwdriver on the vanes of the pump to twist it, it could only pull up the slack belt..
(Unless the waterpump is *seized* and very sticky! that could be a slightly possible cause I just thought of!)

I might be doing a standup gig on Thursday in Derby so good to take mind off that, but send me any G jokes! :-D x 10^6
Neal