G40 engine & gearbox rebuild - what, where & how?

[CJ Dubs]

Guys,

I'm half way through a MK1 Polo G40 build.   Still got loads to do in other areas of the car but will soon be whipping the engine out of the MK1 for the final time - this will allow me to work on the shell in daylight hours and work on the engine in the shed at night.

So my question is basically this......which parts should I replace whilst the engine is out and being cleaned/detailed?   Cost is a factor i.e. if things don't 'really' need replacing then I'd rather not bother.  However, if some parts are cheap enough to replace then I'm more than happy to buy new.  For instance...I'll obviously be changing the oil in both the engine and the gearbox, the filters, the plugs, belts, etc, etc but if it's recommended that I change additional items too then I shall.

The engine has done 107,000 miles and is totally standard (no smaller pulleys fitted, etc) and  I'd like to keep it standard for now.

I shall be getting a charger rebuild kit from Pete and tackling the charger rebuild myself but that is another job for another day.

I have never done engine internal work before although I'm fairly happy to tackle some things on my own if necessary.  For instance......some people may suggest changing the valve seals whilst the engine is out but this is not something I have done before, nor really know exactly what to do so on that basis, is it worth it?  Again......cost is an issue and if it doesn't 'need' doing then I'd rather not do it.  Also......this being the case then I shall need a new rocker cover gasket and head gasket - which one's and where should I get these from (obviously only if I need to remove the head)?

It would be great to come up with a shopping list of items that I need to buy so any input is greatly appreciated!

Oh yeah......if you suggest anything, please can you tell me the best (value for money) place to get such items.  Obviously I'd love everything to be OEM but if it's not necessary and another manufacturer does quality parts for a fraction of the price then that is fine by me!

Many thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Chris.

[PeteG40]

basics id do is bottom end gaskets.

if head is off - for head gasket -personally i'd be tempted to get it rebuilt - its about £150 at my local engineering place for skim, valves 3 angle cut, valve guides, stem seals, pressure tested etc.

then bottom end... up to you really - glazebreaking/piston rings, main bearings and big ends and oil pump is the next stage!  you can check bearings for tolerance though and do a visual inspection.

[CJ Dubs]

Thanks for the response Pete - mucho appreciation!

When you say "bottom end gaskets" - is that basically what it says on the tin i.e. the 3 gaskets on the block half of the engine (numbers 8, 13 & 19 in the below pic)?



Ok...the head I may just get someone else to do if its a case of hand it over and get it back fully done!

You then mention more work on the bottom end but I'm a bit clueless when it comes to these things i.e. never heard of glazebreaking but guess this basically means 'cleaning'!?    You then mention the piston rings, main bearings, big ends and oil pump......but this has left me scratching me head as I know nothing about these.

I'm a pretty competent person and will give anything a go (hence doing all the MK1 G40 conversion myself) but as I say...I've never attempted engine work before so any hints, tips and pointers are very welcome!   Who best to get these from.  If the engine was running alright before the conversion, would you say they 'really' need doing?

Kind regards,
Chris.

[CJ Dubs]

P.S.  Just called my local rebore place and they quoted me the following:

Skim = £40
Valve work (as above) = £75
Pressure tested = £40
1 hours labour = £50

All subject to VAT so a total of £205 x 20% = £246

Not being funny as this may be a really good price but it's disheartening to know that someone is paying £100 less than that for exactly the same work!   This is why I'm not sure what to get done and whether it actually needs it - money is the only factor stopping me!

Cheers,
Chris.

[samg40]

I use the same place as Pete and had a head rebuilt last Septmeber and I believe it was under £150 all in. I took the valves out etc to clean myself but ended up giving it to them to do as it was just taking too long and not being affective. For the money the next one I'll do I'll just give it to them and ask them to do the lot. Where are you based?

[CJ Dubs]

Thanks Sam.

I'm based in the South East (North Kent/SE London basically).  My nearest place is just a couple of miles away and is Dartford Rebore (located in Dartford ) - that's who gave me the above quote.

I was wondering whether to send my complete head to the place that you & Pete use but reckon it'll be getting on for £250 including postage so I'd be no better off.

What I really need is an enthusiast who know's what they're doing rather than a company i.e. mates rates!

Cheers,
Chris.

[CJ Dubs]

Phoned 3 other engine rebuilding companies within 20 miles of me - two came out at circa £250 like the above and the third is getting back to me but guess it'll be much the same.  When he asked what car it was and I said a Polo G40, he was like "Yowzers"!

Also annoys me when I'm given the thrid degree asking why I want the valves 3 angled cut "because that's for serious race cars only" as I was told.  Suffice to say I won't be taking it to him anyway as he sounded like a right muppet!

[dub-disaster]

Took mine to "man in a shed" and for about that price he rebuilt it ported it and replaced the inlet valves go on club gti members section a d get his contact details

[ereeiz]

Why not do it yourself? It's a bit of a pain in the arse but a good way to learn. If it were me I'd not bother doing any of that as it's still functioning fine. However you'd have to accept that the work would need done sooner or later, may be in 1 mile, may be in 40 000 miles. You can always rebuild the head when the engine's in.

I'd do the stuff that's really annoying to do when it's all in place. All the breather system, clean the UFO (under the inlet manifold), perhaps the clutch (could say the same as above though, if it aint broke..... only takes 10mins to inspect when out the car).

Are you using a custom loom? If it's standard then chances are that'll be perished and you may create small breaks in cables when moving them out of the position they've been sat in for 15-20years whilst baked into that shape by engine heat/ degradation, so could be worth checking the connections/ redoing knackered bits before fitting.

Look at the engine and see if it's leaking anywhere and replace neccesary gaskets, seals. I generally use wherever's cheapest for parts, just because it comes from a VW dealer doesn't mean the source is neccesarily different from a local parts place and as long as it meets/ exceeds manufacturers specs then it should be fine. OE stuff isn't always the best, they cut corners and compromise things all the time. an aftermarket supplier only has their own reputation to rely on and personally I've never had a problem with aftermarket bits (with the exception of sensors like lambda probes), if 3rd party suppliers were all duff then there'd be no garages, no motor factors as no one would buy their stuff.

I'd also change the oil feed/ return lines (and buy spare unions, it's a PITA if you drop them/ damage them as they're odd sizes).

[PeteG40]

those gaskets you highlighted and the relevant oil seals (11 and 5 - the big one is obsolete as a seal.,you have to buy the complete unit, but you can get the seal from gsf) are a complete ar5e to do in the car, so i'd do them while off myself.  If you do the pulley side seal you'll also need a new crank bolt as they are single use only.

[CJ Dubs]

Thanks guys - I really appreciate the help and advice.

I'll keep you posted of what I decide once the engine is on it's stand (whipped it out of the car last night).

Cheers,
Chris.