charger service-DIY?

[GAF2]

Orite guys

Well my charger is coming off next week so i can fit my new manifold and stainless system and i was planning sending it to jabba motorsport but after reading on here you can buy a full service kit from gladersite i am wondering if i could manage it my self, am a mechanical engineer (fitter) to trade so i think i could but is there anything i should be wary off for example do you need a press to change out the bearings or will a correct size socket and hammer do the job, are the casings to be handled with care ie do they or could they crack.  They only thing i havent fitted before is the seal that is a long strip??

cheers for any info, hope you understand my wording.

[kaisegeberger]

Do it!

The scroll and casing innards are fragile, but its fine if you take a bit of care. Bearings come out with a decent set of pullers. Assembly by hand if you are clever about using freezer and oven. Its really quite straight forward if you're a competent home mechanic. The seal strips fit by hand and there is a wave seal in the bottom of the slot you need to retain. Seals and bearings from your local bearing shop would save a lot of cash, but I'm not sure if they could get you the seal strips. Spend the money you save on new plugs, leads, seals, bushes, etc, simple stuff that will make the car feel like new. Can't go wrong really 

Consider having a go at porting if its not already done. There is a lot of metal there that doesn't need to be; a standard glader casing is quite agricultural actually. (Just be careful around the thick strut as thats the one with the oil in!)

[GAF2]

cheers bud think i will give it ago, i can get acsess to a press and pullers at work and if i get stuck i can always ask on here. Already got plugs and that so i think i will put the saved cash into the subframe kit fund.

cheers grant

[kaisegeberger]

I wouldn't recommend using a press to get the bearings in. The main bearings will go in by hand if you heat the casing and freeze the bearings. You also need to pre-assemble the auxiliary shaft with bearings (freeze shaft, heat bearings) then you can insert the whole thing into the casing by hand (heat casing, freeze assembled shaft). Similar method for scroll bearing and shaft. Seals will go in using the socket and mallet technique; they should be at least flush with the surface, but don't overdo it or you could block up oil supply holes. Have a look when its in pieces, its fairly obvious what to do/not do.

And make sure you don't drop one of the woodruff keys down the drain by accident.....can you guess what happened the first time i did it 

[PeteG40]

all seals i fit flush but the scroll ones down about 1mm allround (psd ones ive had open do this too)