Conversion engine wont start.

[gavin.starr]

I have finished my conversion now, but the engine wont start.

The engine turns and sparks, the sequence is correct but just wont start. The spark plugs smell of fuel but aren't wet like i think they should be after the amount of times i have tried to start it.

I cant even to seem to get a burble out of it as though it is trying to start. It just turns and turns and turns to no avail.

All the plugs are connected, I seem to think its fuel related, I can hear the pump prime up, so am i to look down the route of the injectors being blocked?

Gav

[Robin]

Are you getting a spark gav? Take on of the plugs out, keep the ht lead on it and rest the tip of the plug onto something on the engine that is earthed like the lifting eye and see it there is a spark when you turn it over.

[gavin.starr]

Yup deffo getting a spark fella.

[Robin]

how much juice has your battery got? mine wouldn't start last weekend when i put the engine back into it as the battery was a little low due to me cranking it over to get oil pressure. put the battery on charge and then fired straight away.

[gavin.starr]

ive had it linked to my supra to jump it and still nothing 

[Jezza-7]

Best way to check if your injectors are blocked is to take the fuel rail off all connected up, turn the ignition on and get someone to turn the crank over with a ratchet or something and then you can see if they are squirting. What i did when i thought my piston melted cause of a blocked injector.

[gavin.starr]

Its alive, But doesn't seem to like idling properly

[gavin.starr]

is there a way of checking the co pot to see if its working correctly.

Also the small micro switch on the outside of the throttle body, when the throttle comes to idle should the tab on the throttle mechanism press the micro switch.

 

[youngprodigys]

yes the microswitch should be depressed when idling. you can here it click when you move the throttle (without engine on) to test the co2 pot is working you will hear the engine tone change when you turn the screw in whilst its running. use a multimeter to check the ohms before you do it and take a note of the value so you can return to it if needs be

[gavin.starr]

Cheers fella

Whats the purpose of the co-pot? Ive had a long day and cant remember its exact purpose.

Gav

[cheys03]

The CO pot itself is in two parts - inside there's an air temperature thermistor and a potentiometer (the screw adjustment).
The air temperature thermistor (predictably) lets the ECU know the air temperature so that it can be accounted for in the fuelling (and possibly ignition?).
The potentiometer allows the overall fuel mixture to be adjusted (though it is biased towards greater negative pressure - e.g. idle), for purposes of mixture/emissions adjustment I believe.

[gavin.starr]

The CO pot itself is in two parts - inside there's an air temperature thermistor and a potentiometer (the screw adjustment).
The air temperature thermistor (predictably) lets the ECU know the air temperature so that it can be accounted for in the fuelling (and possibly ignition?).
The potentiometer allows the overall fuel mixture to be adjusted (though it is biased towards greater negative pressure - e.g. idle), for purposes of mixture/emissions adjustment I believe.

Cheers fella.

Just another quick question. At the top - back of the engine there are two sensors that have a single spade connector on them. I presume one is for oil pressure as its next to the oil feed pipe to the charger. Whats the other one for?

And which wire goes to which? I have a single blue and a single yellow. I currently have the yellow wire on the sensor closest to the cam belt.

The reason i ask is that my coolant temp led in the dash keeps continuously flashing and thought one of these sensors may be something to do with water temp to the dash display. The fan kicks in when it gets hot so i presume the water temp sensor in the thermostat housing is working correctly.

Gav

[scotsjohn]

The two sensors at the back of the block are oil pressure sensors gav. Yours are wired OK. The dash water temp display comes from the black sensor on the thermostat housing. Flashing temp light some times indicates coolant system needing bled. The bleed screw is under the scuttle next to the heater matrix. Run up to temp and bleed till no bubbles; hopefully a cure. Other suspect might be contacts in header tank.

[G40 AD]

I am not certain but my understanding was that in mk3's the coolant light only indicates level and in a conversion some specs d not have the level sensor on the expansion tank, s if you have a spare plug on the new loom then itis most likely to be that and you can get the new expansion tanks with level sensor for around 10quid frm GSF...

[gavin.starr]

yea mine doesn't have a plug on the expansion tank so its probs that then. ill have to go and buy one