Author Topic: How to take apart a g40 charger!!!  (Read 7875 times)

Offline PeteG40

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How to take apart a g40 charger!!!
« on: October 10, 2010, 09:38:30 pm »
For those who want to know....  This is how I do it, if you attempt it and f"ck it up then I accept no responsibility!

Tools you will need.
1.   5mm allen key (preferable a socket on a ratchet with extension)
2.   Internal circlip pliers
3.   External circlip pliers
4.   Side cutters
5.   Hammers (including rubber mallet)
6.   Seal puller (i use one from machine mart with one hook chopped off and padded with sponge)

7.   Sockets and extension bar to use with hammer
8.   Oven
9.   Soft drift
10.   Water pump pliers

Tools you may need
1.   Slide hammer (i use a machine mart dent removal tool - £25 ish – with a bolt/flanged nut too)

2.         Pin or needle

1.  After removing the pulley, charger mounting bracket and outlet dome, get the charger on a level surface (i like to use lino  on  flat surface as its slightly cushioned and wipe clean!) and undo all the allen bolts.  Some may be stiff after 20years of not being undo so make sure the allen key is well in the slot.  If it fails, whack a socket over the top!  undo 4 of the 5mm allen bolts and withdraw, slacked 2 opposite each other and then use the internal circlip pliers to ease apart on the flats.

2. Now get the pulley and place back on the shaft and stand the charger on the pulley.  Use the external circlip pliers to remove the circlip from the countershaft.

3.Withdraw the countershaft (sometimes these can be very tight and you’ll need a slide hammer type tool to give it a nudge).  

4. This will leave you with a keyway.  Use your side cutting pliers to remove. Try not to mark this and keep all removed parts in a safe place!

5. Now using your fingers pull the scroll up using your thumbs on the shaft for leverage.  The scroll should pop up and can be removed.  The charger will now be in 3 parts - pulley side, scroll and outlet.

6. Grab the pulley side, remove the belt and remove the main shaft toothed belt pulley.  Use side cutters to remove the long keyway.  

7. Then use the rubber mallet (with drift if needed) to knock the main shaft out.  You’ll find on the external side of the case that in the seal is an oil slinger, that should simply pull out – save it!

8. Grab the water pump pliers and a 10mm socket.  Using the old belt stop the top pulley turning and undo the bolt.  The pulley may or may not come off – don’t worry if it doesn’t, don’t be tempted to get a screwdriver; you might bend the belt guide on the bottom edge.

9. Grab your seal puller and pull the external and internal seal.  Be careful, they can give way easily and you don’t want to damage your apex seal grooves.

10. This should reveal a circlip.  Get your internal circlip pliers and remove this and the countershaft circlip

11. Now get the do the same to the scroll (leave apex seals in to avoid bending the grooves) and outlet side casing – pull the seals  (psd full blends may not have enough metal on the outlet side casing to use the seal puller – here’s where you use the slide hammer with a  bolt/flanged nut to pull the seal UP not levered out) and remove circlips and remove all apex seals.  If they are VERY wedged in you may need a pin at the end of the apex seal in order to lever up.  In the casing apex seal grooves there are springs – remove these and keep.

12. Now you need to clean the pulley side casing, scroll and the outlet casing.  I tend to use petrol or carb cleaner.  Be wary of using parts cleaner as you don’t want to use any corrosion – especially on the scroll as it will with some parts washers.

13. When clean – I wrap the scroll and casings in foil and put them in the oven – about 130 degrees for about 1hr (foil to contain and fumes from old oil I’ve missed).

14. After an hour – a drift or socket should knock the pulley side centre bearing and countershaft easily.  The top pulley if not removed before, will be now!  

15. The tiny keyway and washer in the countershaft need to be removed. Whilst hot it needs to go in the vice and with a drift the centre shaft should come out easily and bearings and counterweight will be removed.   

Using  a decent sized socket the centre scroll bearing should be knocked through easily too.

To remove the outlet side pulley when hot whack down on a soft ish surface i.e. wood.  If it doesn’t fall out – use the slide hammer with bolt/flanged nut as shown earlier and the end bearing should come out

should look like this...

Once everything is totally apart. I like to reaaaaly clean everything as much as possible - again with petrol/carb cleaner and check for wear!
« Last Edit: June 01, 2011, 10:40:14 pm by PeteG40 »

Offline N1CKY

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Re: How to take apart a g40 charger!!!
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2011, 09:44:01 pm »
This may help people if they forget where things go :)

Offline Jezza-7

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Re: How to take apart a g40 charger!!!
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2014, 04:39:39 pm »
Just followed this guide to taking it apart to replace the oil seals.

This guide was very helpful and its actually not that hard of a job to do.

I didn't have a slide hammer for the outlet seal, i used a small gear puller as it fitted nicely and luckily it just pulled out really easy. And the countershaft weight just fell off. Hardest part for me was getting the long key way out! Was bloody tight like tiger.

Cheers Pete for this guide!