how to check engine age/ condition

[dub-disaster]

right,
   i bought this 1341cc bottom end that is ment ot have accralites in it and is ment to have just been run in but i want to check for sure that it is in tip top conditon and that theres nothing needs doing to it before putting it in the car.
   Firstly is there any way i can tell what pistons are in there? they are definalty 77m bores so its definantly 1341 i didnt recieve any type of paperwork with the engine unfortunatly. the tops of the pistons are very bright and have a circular pattern on them like when somthing is turned using a lathe both these things lead me to belive they are forged pistons. How much would an engine builder cost to strip inspect and reassable the engine and is it realy worth doing and or am i worrying about nothing?
  The bores look in good condition and i can still see the honing patter on them there is a slight covering of brown susbtance here and there around the tops of the bores and the piston tops , im assuming this is residue left over by combustion and is normal does this need to be removed before reassabling the engine if so what would you suggest using to remove , do i have to use somthing non abrasive ??
 Just wanted to put my mind at rest with the condition of the engine as once its in i dont fancy pulling it out again realy what would you guys suggest thanks
i will get some pics up 2mro aswell

[Puncharado]

Just had my bottom end stripped, cleaned, checked and rebuilt, labour charge was just shy of £300. Breaks down as (plus VAT): -
Dismantle and clean £30
Hone bores £30
Clean pistons and fit rings £30
Polish crankshaft journals £30
Balance £50
Checking and reassembly £80

It's been rehoned, but there are still some stains at the top 1/2 inch of the bore, I'm not worried at all about this as it's all above the top piston rings anyway. If all the stains on yours are effectively in the combustion chamber then no probs.
Bright pistons = very new or recently cleaned (like mine!). I can't help you identify them though, I have no idea.

I'm sure a good engine builder will be able to give you some sort of assessment without stripping it. You don't really want to take it apart if it can be avoided, it gets even more expensive - the rings, shells, thrust wahsers, nuts, bolts etc. for mine, cost close to £400 (all genuine VAG, AND through a mate).

[dub-disaster]

cheers mate i dont really fancy a £400 bill for peace of mind id rather take my engine out again than pay £400!! i know this is completeley off subject but did you manage to get a quaife yet ? and what made you choose quaife over grippa lsd??

[Puncharado]

Not got one yet. I'm not in a huge rush to get one, as I've got plenty to do anyway. If I haven't managed to get a cheaper one by the time I'm ready then I'll go to Quaife, but until then no harm in seeing if one comes along.
I'm going for an ATB rather than a plate type because the car is for the road and will be my daily driver. Perhaps the odd track day but no full-bore strip runs, so I'm happy to sacrifice out and out traction for mild manners on the road. And I'm not chasing big power either, other than a cam and a bit of headwork (decided against BVH) the engine internals are all standard 1272, everything else is bolt on - GT inlet, bigger TB, R1 charger etc. All tried and tested stuff, and kinder to the transmission.
Also chassis wise, I'm going for the stage 2 subframe and at least for now I'll be keeping the spax dampers and Eibach springs so on the the usually bumpy open road I'll have plenty of room for decent suspension travel without catching tyres.
I want to enjoy driving it for the sake of driving, and don't want to get pissed off with the on-road compromises of a more focused set up.

[dub-disaster]

I see mate that's pretty damn sensible. I'm trying to tune my car for the a good alround car that I can take up the strip do a couple trackdays and mainly drive on the road but it is finding that compromise between all three that is important I think. That's why I'm going to stick with my atb. Mite even get som softer springs and some 14's for nice road comfort!