valve guides

Started by dub-disaster, February 14, 2010, 01:31:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

dub-disaster

  got my second hand big valve head of phil j yesterday. was a little concerned about this valve guide that looks to have either been inserted a little to far or has moved have a look and let me know what you think.I am no head expert just wondering if anyone out there knows if this is likley to cause me any problems i.e the valve guide moving and eventualy falling out ??
 also a little dissapointed with the flowing around the valves definantly not as good as hayseys done by man in the shed does this sort of thing gain you much or is it just down to porting and valve size realy ?

looks like the steam seal has droped down by a mm or two compared to the one below

and lastly the dissapointing flowing


Puncharado

Those aren't the valve stem oil seals, they're the valve guides! The stem seals are on the other side of the valve guide, on the top side of the head and you can't see them underneath the tappets. Maybe that one guide has been inserted a little further that the others. Assuming the guides are long enough I'd expect the bottom of the guides to be flush with the port roof on a flowed head, sticking out affects the flow.

dub-disaster

Ahh ok wasn't sure of the right terminology edit now though. Just wondered if any one else had any pics of there's when they had a bvh done

hayesey

doesnt look like the area around the spark plug or valve seats has been touched but can't see it making much of a difference to be honest.

Fred

If their Genuine Guides then their pressed into a Depth.
If they are GSF then theirs have a lip machined at the top wich is the set Depth.
So i`ll assume their Genuine guides and ones been pushed in slightly too far but bare
in mind that they are a press in fit but if done correctly shouldn`t be a concern.
Just hope their not GSF and ones been forced that hard that the lip broke off. lol.
I have known of someone who didn`t have them straight enough when they pressed
them in and thus shaved an amount off the sides as they wer going in.

Pic of GSF guides below.

Fred.

dub-disaster

Cheers for the replys on closer inspection I think all the guides are at the same heighjust more metal has been removed on that one than others. And I thought that the flowing around there helped to let the cfm to burn more evenly as well as flow better. Also I thought that sharp edges around there could cause pre ignition I was probably mistaken though. Also some of the mating faces have some minor damage to them that cnt be removed with sand paper there's a nick in the surface where the cam cover gaske goes and one on the inlet manifold face how can these be repaired?? Can I use liquid metal to jus fill nicks n other damage then use wet n dry to flat them out again or am I beter of just leaving them alone.

hayesey

well sharp edges round there will create air turbulence which hinders fuel & air mixture getting in, the metal around the spark plug hole hinders the flame front when the plug fires.  But you wont notice a difference in terms of how it drives.  Pre-ignition shouldn't be a problem as long as it's mapped well.  Robin's turbo g40 has a stock head on it still.

Nick_S

Yeah as you suspected, its the amount of material removed from the head, not that the guides have moved down. I hope you didn't pay too much for it, as the flowing work is only average on that one.

dub-disaster

Yea I'm not particularly impressed with it at all realy. I went to pick it up n stupidly didn't realy look at it too closley just loaded it up n took it home , when I got home had a closer look n not impressed by it realy been trying to get hold of phil see if he'll take it back but I cnt get hold of him at the moment and it was quite expensive I paid almost what you'd expect from a brand new one thad half the reason I'm not to happy bout it realy.

Tommo

Polo inlet ports are pretty big I think, IIRC isnt most of the restriction just above the valve? I should think that opening that a little and matching the manifolds + a bit of smoothing should be sufficient for anything really.

dub-disaster

I think the price I paid was pretty damn reasonable looking around now, actualy yea I can get a
better quality one brand new but that's more money again I think this will be fine for me I'll put it in with my new engine n we will see how it goes !

hayesey

what did you pay for it?

dub-disaster

I paid £1400 for it with a 1341cc bottom end and the bottom end was up for £1k jabba quoted me £630 including vat and postage and they use the same bloke you got yours done with hayesey

djtez

Excuse the noob question, but What makes this porting average?
Has anyone got pictures of a "good" ported head?

I was always under the impression that in the 'inlet' side porting should be rough to cause turbulence, and the 'outlet' to be smooth for gases to escape quickly.


hayesey

it's not as important in a forced induction engine as the air pressure helps