Help please G40 still won't start :(

[langersG40]

started my G40 up the other day to put it back on the road and take it for an MOT, 2 miles down the road, it cut out and wouldn't restart,
its got fuel in it,
pumps priming
when you turn the ignition, getting a spark!!! taken the dizzy off and cleaned it took both relays out cleaned them in electrical cleaner, put both on 12v feeds and they both click!!!
its also got a new battery,
any help id be most grateful

many thanks

Langers

[rusty]

i'd probably work backwards from the engine side... spill less fuel that way... !

1) check you get a spark per rotation of the engine (i.e. distributor is working, so is ECU, so is coil) and not just 1 spark and thats it when you start cranking - it should spark spark spark spark spark as engine turns over
2) check 12v getting to both fuel pumps as you prime it / crank it over to start
3) take both fuel lines off the injector rail,if nothing comes out... (if something comes out - i think i'm right in saying make sure you put the return pipe onto the fuel pressure regulator and the supply pipe onto the plastic injector rail... and then try to start the car again !)
4) take fuel line off before fuel filter,if nothing comes out...
5) take fuel line off before the inline fuel pump...if nothing comes out...
6) ... it's probably the in-tank lift pump.

[langersG40]

Thanks for reply

right

1)constant spark per rotation when the engines cranked over

2)]external pump primes and pumps fuel, I have given it a  direct 12v feed off a battery and it works both ways!!!

3) there is a direct 12v feed to the internal tank pump both when priming and cranking it!!! and also the external pump has a 12v feed

4)also I gave the internal pump a direct feed off the battery and you can here it working in the tank

HELP this is getting me down what can this be as I have spark, and both pump work and have feed!!

regards

Langers

[JoeH]

Jammed up fuel filter from old petrol / storage (long shot though)

[langersG40]

and the plugs are wet some fuel must be getting in, but nothing, not one fire arghhh

[samg40]

Have you had the leads off? Are they in the correct order?

[langersG40]

yeah i have but ive put em back in i think the correct order 1342 in a anti clock wise direction with 1 being the closest to you on the dizzy?

right now ive changed the HT leads as i read some where about a guy that saying his did the same thing, still nothing

but have noticed plugs are wet when i took em out  and i have pressure at the fuel rail

help!!!

[samg40]

There were two Bentley engineers (and me) putting the leads back on Robins car with my car for refrerence and it still took us about three attempts to get them right!

I cant remember the order off the top of my head but its in the Haynes.

[PeteG40]

It could be yr hall sender been replaced and the drive been put on 180 degrees out.... if so try 1342 from 3 o clock anti clockwise

[langersG40]

ah shit now you said that I put it on TDC and took the dizzy off and it was in the 3 O clock position not 9 O clock is that what you mean???

[langersG40]

could it be Blue ECU Sensor or hall sender as I just cut out whilst driving and was fine up til then!!!

its got fuel, fuel pressure relays and pumps work, they have a 12v feed, I have a spark arghhhhh bloody cars lol

[PeteG40]

ah shit now you said that I put it on TDC and took the dizzy off and it was in the 3 O clock position not 9 O clock is that what you mean???

Yes. I think lobe on back of dizzy might be 180degree out. Try 1342 from 3 oclock

[randombadger69]

Should run without the blue temp sensor plugged in. Try it with it disconnected. Won't run if the hall sender is unplugged. Sounds like it could be the hall sender.

Mark accross your dizzy and the camshaft journal for reference then unbolt and remove the dizzy.

Turn your engine to tdc on cylinder 1. Now pop the cap off your dizzy and check where the rotor arm is in relation to the cap with the dizzy rotor engaged in the end if the camshaft.

Once you have established which position  cyl.1 lead should be on your dizzy cap; working from your rotor arm with the crank at tdc on cyl.1. Then the firing order in an anti clockwise direction when looking at the dizzy square-on is 1342.

Once you have all the leads correct try turning the rotor arm with the ignition on and a test plug in each lead, probably best to do this one at a time so as not to get in a muddle! 

I just changed the dizzy on my G40 and it has cured the cold morning misfire. Plus feels a lot happier through the rev range now.

I'm hoping the lambda sensor and hall sender was the reason I was getting fuel in my oil on my long term 1306cc build; as I used the dizzy off this on my other one and it had the cold start misfire issue on both.

For £70 it's worth doing the sender IMHO if you are unsure on history. Or if your feeling flush £119 for the whole dizzy on ebay from ECP.

[langersG40]

thanks guys

right I tested the Hall Sender today by, removing the distributor completely but leaving it plugged in turned the ignition on, and manually by hand turned it, and on each turn you could hear the pump work, and injectors open. so id say the hall sender is working.

I got cyl 1 on TDC and timing marks all lined up ok, the cam for the dizzy dowel to go in was pointing at the 3 O clock position!!! so I put the dizzy back on and put the leads on one by one in anti clock wise 1-3-4-2!!!

and still nothing 

so hall sender is working
Both pumps & relays are working
I have fuel
I have a spark
timing marks all lined up


ARGHHHHHHHHH LOL

[PeteG40]

Right the dizzy dowel was in that place.


But when u refitted the dizzy,  where did the rotor arm point?