Club G40 Forum
Club G40 => General Car Chat => Topic started by: xrrich on July 10, 2011, 01:35:10 pm
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Decided my next purchase has to be toothies,
Been doing some research and wanted a bit of information
What's better aluminium or steel
And is there anywhere else to get them from other then here,
http://www.bar-tek-tuning.de/nocache/g40+zahnriemantrieb+glader,w22739.htm
http://www.g-laderseite.de/eshop/product_info.php?products_id=42
Any general information would be great, i want to buy the right ones so don't regret it and end up buying better ones later on
Cheers
Rich
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The G-Laderseite one is a ribbed belt set-up thats not much of an improvement on the existing twin-v set-up. The Bartek effort might be OK, but it has a square section tooth belt/pulley that seemingly howls like a Banshee and is much more prone to belt stripping. There's a differance of opinion on the steel v alloy question; each has plus points. Best wait for a PSD to kit to come up here or e-bay. They're pretty reliable and well made.
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Get the bar-tek one, im gonna.
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the bartek arent square tooth, but they are steel not alu so are heavy!
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Toothed belts are a bit of a dilemma for me.
I love the power delivery, but I really miss the noise of the V belts. :(
I know which I want more, but I can't say I'm a huge fan of the whine. I wouldn't want them to be any louder than the PSD ones.
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Yeah might wait for a set of PSD ones come up, how do the Ali ones wear compared to the steel ones,
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depends how tight people have had the belts, whether they've used correct pitch replacement belts, which run of the PSD ones they are and how many miles they are?
I ran some second hand phase one ones - which had been used for about 50k for about 50 k myself and now samg40 has them and tehy are pretty much like new... whereas i've seen some newer ones which are worn out.
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the bartek arent square tooth, but they are steel not alu so are heavy!
I thought Bar-Tek used a cambelt profile on their kit. Seem to remember a lot of complaints about them on C.P.
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some german ones did, but if you look at the photos they are same profile and but a shorter belt. square tooth are much longer spaced
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Wait till winter and buy my PSD ones off me. :P
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winter is along time cant get power down also! aha
How come you selling yours?
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some german ones did, but if you look at the photos they are same profile and but a shorter belt. square tooth are much longer spaced
That's what I was looking at, but on the pulleys. The space between the teeth looks much bigger than the teeth themselves. Doesn't look like a regular 8mm pitch.
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I do have the intention of ordering some in via work but I got carried away and fitted them before measuring them :/
Realistically I doubt I will now unless these wear out. I think Justin is/was doing the same thing too, lol.
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Luckily i have sourced a brand new set of PSD toothed pulleys.
Right just wondering should i replace the 4 allen key bolts on the pulley for brand new ones or will it be ok to use old ones.
Any other things i might want to know before fitting them.
Helpful hints or tips
Thanks
RIch
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Hope these aren't off e-bay mate. There's some dodgey PSD lookalikes on there; missing the guide rails.
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Really?! That's not good I bought them from matt (karmann) from here they look prety damn genuine and have got guides and even got original , anyone got pictures of original ones.
And back to the point any pointers on fitting or is it pretty straight forward
Cheers
Rich
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If they've got the guides then you should be good to go. There's nothing particularly difficult in the fitting, just regular access hassle to the crankshaft pulley and alternator removal. Make sure you don't overtighten the belt; same procedure as the cambelt, a 90 degree twist on the longest belt run. If everything looks and sounds OK, you've now got to check the clearance between the belt and the ARB support bracket;this can be fag paper tight. If so I'd recommend you mark up where the belt passes the bracket and then remove the bracket and get grinding. A bit of an arse, but worth it. Enjoy your toothies but watch the rev limiter, you'll be hitting it in fourth now and it's pretty harsh.
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Ok, sounds good, what do you mean by Make sure you don't overtighten the belt; same procedure as the cambelt, a 90 degree twist on the longest belt run
Dont you tighten it from leverage on the supercharger
I have never done cambelt, i am sort or learn as i go sort of guy so just getting a heads up before i start.
Thanks
Rich
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He means the belt is the correct tension when you can twist it through 90° and no more, in the centre of the lonest belt run. If you can twist it more than 90° it's too loose, if you can't twist it to 90° it's too tight. This is the same way of checking timing belt tension, but the method of tensioning is different.
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Unless they are grey phase 1 toothies they will wear