Club G40 Forum
Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: Dirrt on November 09, 2009, 02:19:55 pm
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Afternoon Gentleman
OK so I've melted a piston on the G :-X and the head has completely eroded away and needs welding and mending… 2 plugs are absolutely fubared like they’ve been raped :-[
Just to re cap, I changed the sparks back to one pins and provided it with a new lambda and blue sensor, this was then running sweeter than ever before, 3 hours later… Oil spat out the dipstick!
It has definitely been under fuelling and running lean. I need to double check the history when I get home to find out what exactly was rebuilt at 113k
What causes am I looking at here?
Weak fuel pumps and dodgy injectors?
Could you tell me please what the standard size of a piston is? Sorry, I did try the search button with fail - 75.485mm?
Is there anything else you know off, what we can try, look for and investigate?
All help, thoughts, personal experiences and opinions muchly appreciated as always.
Thank you
Laura :-*
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Wiring loom, fuel pumps and injectors need checking - PPP can check/clean the injectors, maybe one or two had a sh1t spray pattern.
Also what chip were you running for the modifications? maybe it was too lean?
thought stock pistons were just 75mm?
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Cheers Pete ;D
Notes taken and passed on!
Must be 75mm then ??? I'm not the one under the hood, he measured it up and told me to find out as I wasn't sure what standard size was... What other size pistons can you get mate?
Yeah he deffo reckons it was running too lean!
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Don't sound Good L.
Im not technically minded (as many people know!) but i hope yoiu get it fixed up soon.
Jon.
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Piston sizes, you can get 75 to 77mm (77mm effectively giving 1341cc) i think - check accralite or wossner sites.
Ensure your pumps and injectors are tip top and the condition of yr wiring loom. Also I'd be tempted to get someone to code read your chip, to ensure its sufficient for the spec of the car (or buy a new decent chip!) Its been known that people have been running stock injectors on chips for 250cc injectors, therefore running very lean!
Pete
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Yeah I'm sure I've read that somewhere before Pete, I think you're right!
Will do. Thank you :)
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not sure about the piston meltage but oil spitting out the dipstick could be the crankcase pressurising...check/clean out the breather on the back of the crankcase
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thats a bit shit dirt! yea might as well rebore it to 1341 now. there is a few choices of pistons depending on what comp ratio you want to run
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That is bad news after having already thrown ££££'s at it :(
Wossner do four sizes of forged pistons for the G40, all with a comp ratio of 8:1
Standard 75mm 1272cc
75.5mm 1289cc
76mm 1307cc
77m 1341cc
Chap who built my engine has an account with Wossner if you get stuck sourcing some.
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Worthwhile checking your coolant system for blockages in the cooling jackets, this can also cause a piston to melt.
I can clean your injectors and read the code of the chip- PM me if you want to get this done.
As a minimum I'd flow test the injectors, fit new fuel pumps, and replace the fuel filter and lift pump gauze.
Your lambda is now probably f**ked as you'll have burnt plenty of oil.
For me there's too much coincidence between you changing the plugs and this happening, what did you change them to?
Need to find out what went first, piston or plug. Have you got pictures of all 4 plugs?
I've got the following engines:
1) 80k strong engine, headgasket and cambelt done recently along with water pump
2) Fully rebuilt G40 motor, new gaskets etc done 10k made 161bhp
Both have standard heads and no ancilaries- I'd like £400 for the first one, and £500 for the second.
Cheers
Pete
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Good news
I got some good luck for once :-\ but I'm not holding my breathe, I always expect the worse with me and this car :'( There are no marking on the bores so replacing the piston for now is gonna do the job
I don't have the money to do anything else yet, so boring it out will have to wait until after Christmas where I shall be starting a new G fund and putting money by for lots of things. It's a long process but if the G's running whilst I'm saving, I'm happy :D
My old G guy (that I won't be using again) didn't put the Lambda sensor in properly, Matt was able to unscrew it with his fingers, should it be like that? Could that have caused the melt from wrong readings? The sensor itself is fine though and not damaged!
Everything else is being checked...
Right, where's the best place for me to source a 75.5mm standard piston (.5 oversize and not forged as it wont match the rest!) and how much should I be paying for one?
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I think you read something wrong? I'm female and even I'm not that stupid, they are all this size ::) :D
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if you are only replacing 1 piston you will have to weigh all pistons and make them all the same weight for balance reasons. you will have to find a non structual part of the inside of the piston to buff away, plus hone the bore to get rid of the shine.
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Erm... If the pistons are all 75.5mm and the same make why would they be out of balance ???
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if they all are 75.5mm then it would suggest an overbore at somepoint (perhaps an issue like this in the past!)
and therefore if a non-stock piston size (if they are vag oversize pistons) then back to vw -vagcat says about 165 euro - similar £165 i'd expect per piston.
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Erm... If the pistons are all 75.5mm and the same make why would they be out of balance ???
you will never get 2 pistons the same unless you buy a matching set. when i got a new piston it was heavier than my others so i had to buff away a part to get them the same,
your other pistons will have wear on them and making them lighter than the new one.
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if yr buying a new vag piston at best part of £200 i'd be tempted to save £600 for a proper rebore
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My old G guy (that I won't be using again) didn't put the Lambda sensor in properly, Matt was able to unscrew it with his fingers, should it be like that? Could that have caused the melt from wrong readings? The sensor itself is fine though and not damaged!
You can't assess the health of a lambda probe just by looking at it - post-piston meltage I replaced mine as a precaution, they don't take kindly to oil fouling.
I very much doubt a faulty lambda has anything to do with the piston meltage. At full throttle/high load (i.e. when conditions are harsh enough for melty melty piston) the ECU ignores the lambda anyway.
Flow test and clean the injectors, check out the engine block waterways/cooling jacket for blockages, check your fuel pressure (replace the pumps if they've never been done - and deffo the filters!).
As Yoof said, what spark plugs were you using? Do you have a picture of them?
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you will never get 2 pistons the same unless you buy a matching set. when i got a new piston it was heavier than my others so i had to buff away a part to get them the same,
your other pistons will have wear on them and making them lighter than the new one.
Is this true?
if yr buying a new vag piston at best part of £200 i'd be tempted to save £600 for a proper rebore
Urgh, my head hurts thinking about it all. What needs fixing now including the piston for parts alone is over £500 :o
I don't know what I should do for the best, I just wanted it running again ASAP but I do totally see your knowledge in a rebore
You can't assess the health of a lambda probe just by looking at it - post-piston meltage I replaced mine as a precaution, they don't take kindly to oil fouling.
I very much doubt a faulty lambda has anything to do with the piston meltage. At full throttle/high load (i.e. when conditions are harsh enough for melty melty piston) the ECU ignores the lambda anyway.
Flow test and clean the injectors, check out the engine block waterways/cooling jacket for blockages, check your fuel pressure (replace the pumps if they've never been done - and deffo the filters!).
As Yoof said, what spark plugs were you using? Do you have a picture of them?
Melty melty :D Does it? I learn something new every day ;D
I can get pictures!
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iridium spark plugs?
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Cheaper to buy a healthy rebuild engine ;)
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Yoofs right, the chances are buying another engine is easyer/cheaper and then you have a spare as well.
I would be wanting to see the spark plugs you took out before fitting the new ones. Any det damage or sign of running lean?
I wouldnt worry about piston weights too much, as long as its the same brand as the rest. These things dont rev very high anyway.
Did it make a sound like a machine gun before it died? If not then its probably been gradually dieing of det for a while, rather than a sudden change in mixture/timing.
Do all the cylinders have major det marks? If so then its a timing/chip fault. If its just a select few then its down to injectors I suppose. Obviously the cylinders that run hottest will be prone to det first (the middle two) although I wouldnt be surprised if the ECU retarded the timing slightly on the middle two cylinders to compensate anyway.
Was it overheating at all at the time of the damage?
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ECU can't retard individual cylinders, it's base retard. Also Cyl 1 runs the hottest on the Polo engines, especially on the G40 motors mostly due to the exhaust manifold design.
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Cheaper to buy a healthy rebuild engine ;)
Keep selling it baby :D haha I am tempted, but no...
Yoofs right, the chances are buying another engine is easyer/cheaper and then you have a spare as well.
I would be wanting to see the spark plugs you took out before fitting the new ones. Any det damage or sign of running lean?
I wouldnt worry about piston weights too much, as long as its the same brand as the rest. These things dont rev very high anyway.
Did it make a sound like a machine gun before it died? If not then its probably been gradually dieing of det for a while, rather than a sudden change in mixture/timing.
Do all the cylinders have major det marks? If so then its a timing/chip fault. If its just a select few then its down to injectors I suppose. Obviously the cylinders that run hottest will be prone to det first (the middle two) although I wouldnt be surprised if the ECU retarded the timing slightly on the middle two cylinders to compensate anyway.
Was it overheating at all at the time of the damage?
I don't want or need a spare haha. As much as I am a petrol head and I'm one for power coming before looks and all that jazz I just want my G running sweet as fook, I'm happy with the power and don't want to spend any more on performance. If I do more I'll spend a lot off the time paying someone to sort it out for me. Most off you bois enjoy spending your weekends under the hood fixing it, tweaking it, playing with it and then driving it. I wish I had that gift but I dont and certainly wont for a while, when my G's running I do 300 miles easy in it on weekend. I am saying this in a nice way btw because sometimes i can get ready as blunt and mardy :-*
I just want it as it is running perfect, so I can enjoy it, keep it and then move onto the Jap metal dream
I changed back to standard Bosch ones before melted piston and it was deffo running lean!
We weren't worrying about weight too much tbh
That's a good word for it, my comparison was a scooby... but deffo a machine gun, yes!
I'm not sure but I can get that checked... Right OK, more knowledge, what I like to read, learn and take in :) No not at all, it did run to about 90 whilst i was sat, but that was about 45 mins before this happened on motor way and it had cooled right down after i moved from sat location after 10 mins and was normal at time of this taking place
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Good news
I got some good luck for once :-\ but I'm not holding my breathe, I always expect the worse with me and this car :'( There are no marking on the bores so replacing the piston for now is gonna do the job
I don't have the money to do anything else yet, so boring it out will have to wait until after Christmas where I shall be starting a new G fund and putting money by for lots of things. It's a long process but if the G's running whilst I'm saving, I'm happy :D
My old G guy (that I won't be using again) didn't put the Lambda sensor in properly, Matt was able to unscrew it with his fingers, should it be like that? Could that have caused the melt from wrong readings? The sensor itself is fine though and not damaged!
Everything else is being checked...
Right, where's the best place for me to source a 75.5mm standard piston (.5 oversize and not forged as it wont match the rest!) and how much should I be paying for one?
I think VW main dealer does slight overbore size pistons. Probably have to buy a full set though.
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Thanks Nick :)
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I didn't think VW sold oversize pistons for a g40 engine? I know you can get them from engine builders but you'd need to do the full set.
Quote from: Yoof on Yesterday at 07:32:34 pm
Cheaper to buy a healthy rebuild engine Wink
Keep selling it baby Cheesy haha I am tempted, but no...
that's going to be your cheapest option that will guarantee a healthy engine at the end of it all.
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I don't get how me replacing whats wrong, is then leaving my engine "unhealthy" ??? It's old like everyone elses but everyone is not replacing theirs?
Sorry if my questions are tedious and you're probably all rolling your eyes at me but I ask so I understand. It's actually really hard when I don't know myself and i don't know what is best, so I have to seek guidance and advice. I am being told different things and every man and thinks he knows best and his way is best and that they know what they are talking about when reality is probably only about 3 off the 15 that give meadvice do. A new engine would make any car the healthiest it could be, but in reality it's not always needed.
I have it in mind to replace the piston, the rings, clean injectors and the head has gone so that needs doing and probably change the pump aswell. Why would this not be OK?
The plan is to fix this, get it running and driveable and then start my Jap fund and even put by for Yoofs engine if I can tbh as a fall back.
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I changed back to standard Bosch ones before melted piston and it was deffo running lean!
Did you swap the map as well?
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I don't get how me replacing whats wrong, is then leaving my engine "unhealthy"
how do you know what's "unhealthy" without replacing practically everything? You could be flogging a dead horse or fighting a lost battle etc...
I'm not trying to make you buy yoofs engine, it's just you might be better off using a healthy engine than trying to fix up one that's suffered a lean out (which could have damaged all sorts, the block could even have warped...). Yes when I bore-washed my old block I just replaced it with another one that I rebuilt and knew was good.
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the problem is that you dont know what caused the meltage. If you just rebuild the engine, there is a chance it'll melt again - hence why people are saying check fuel pumps/injectors etc.
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i would agree with these lads by just going for another engine,
cos this would be more cost effective and safer than rebuilding a very damaged engine when a month down the line it could happen again if its not 100%.
Costs approx £200 per piston (inc rings and pin)(i payed 195 for one 8 months ago and never used it cos i bought another engine and put its pistons with new rings in my block)
new head is about a grandish maybe more from vw if you cant get second hand,
££££ to find out and fix what caused the problem in the first place.
£400 - £500 for a working engine and a day replacing it is far cheaper than than fixing the excisting engine,
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if you want to do it as cheap as possible but retain your block, i would say a new piston, strip down, check and rebuild is needed.
Add head gasket etc and you are probably looking at £300 in parts+ labour.
Then clean/replace injectors (£35 at ppp for a clean) and test/replace fuel pumps (£20 lift fuel pump, £100 , replace fuel filter/strainer (£10).
Labour either way will be a biatch unless you do it yourself.
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i have a G40 piston you can have but id advise just buying another engine as you'll have to eventually anyway.
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After reading this thread and all the comments, if i were you i would take Yoof up on his offer to supply you with a ready built engine. That way you can get it in place, check the fuel system and off you go. Will save the hassel of a rebore, cleaning block after, sourcing parts and then rebuilding. Saving time your G is out of action!
Plus then you will have the damaged block as a spare to slowly build a 1341 forged bottom when time and money allows ;)
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Thanks for the replies guys. I do see the logic but I don't know ??? :'(
Are you telling me, all off you in my situation would buy a new engine? I'm finding that hard to believe :-\
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you need a new piston and a new head by the sounds of it, which will cost about the same as a yoof engine. So its your call really.
Its gonna be quite costly whatever the outcome, which unfortunately could only be made cheaper if you could do all the labour spannering yourself
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I probably wouldn't buy a full new engine no, not if the bores are ok. But I'd do all the labour in rebuilding the engine myself so it'd work out ok. It's the amuont of money you are going to need to pay someone to rebuild the engine and inspect it for bearing damage, warp, bore size and shape etc...
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Right you guys i had to sign up as i cant deal with being a second party anymore and trying to get info through miss DIRT!
I have the car in my workshop all pistons are out No3 is melted due to a poss fueling problem the plan is to replace this piston and fit new rings to the rest thus making it a new engine minus the bearings on the crank which are all fine as it only had a build about 10k ago!
The block is not warped and never will be as it would seize before that happened
And the fact you replaced the block because it was supposedly borewashed!!!! what a pointless exercise a simple glaze buster would have sorted that and a fresh set of rings! at worst!
The head is corroded around a water way which has gone into the sealing ring of the head gasket this also does not need replacing a simple welding job and a skim will return this back to new!
The injectors are going for a clean and pattern check and the filters and poss pump will be changed to!
Any positive comments welcome!
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Block - it was suggested that waterways may be blocked, hence the poor cooling and overheating then melting
Hayesey replaced a borewashed block with another, as it cost him £50+ rings which was easier than taking the existing borewashed block apart and starting again.
Head - Dirrt said the head was fucked - if its not then good news
As for the fueling problem - well I would presume that if it has 75.5mm pistons its been slighltly overbored before, possibly due to this. So you need to get to the bottom of this to avoid it happening again. People have melted pistons before due to - injectors, wiring loom, fuel pumps etc. However also some pistons also had suspect metallurgy and I've been told some g40s had their engine replaced under warranty due to melting!
As for replacing the engine - well the cost of piston+headgasket+head skimming/welding is going to be coming towards the price of a decent secondhand engine.
Pete
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I know its defo a fueling problem
I dont like second hand engines as you never know what they have been treated like yes they might have only done say 20k but 20k of what death? and you never get the full truth from the original owner!
Also replacing the engine is so much more work that just dropping the pistons out!
At least i'll know it been put together right and what condition everything is in doing it my way!
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Agreed mate on the block, i'd prefer something I'd know was tip top.
Fueling problem maybe, but is it the ecu map, wiring, injectors, pump, filters? etc etc Thoroughly and methodically all needs checking.
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Hence they'll be coming off and being checked!
I'm personally going for blocked injectors as its only the one cylinder thats been affected the other 3 are tip top!
So as i said above pattern and flow check on the injectors and replace the filters as people never seem to bother for some stupid reason!
Blocked fuel filters are a major cause of engine problems!
Also its amazing the difference it makes to the performance if they are even slightly blocked and on a boosted car your relying on the fuel more than anything to stop it killing itself!
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lose the attitude mate.
do whatever you want with it, she asked for advice we gave it. If you think you can repair the engine for less then do it. From Dirts point of view, is it cheaper for her to pay you to repair the engine than it is to buy an engine that is known to be good. Only she can answer that because only she knows what you;re going to charge her. There's no need for the "everyone is obviously wrong except me because I'm a mechanic" attitude.
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and yes I know I didn't need to repalce the block because it had been bore washed, I've still got that old block and will probably rebuild it one day and will give it a glaze break but I had a spare bottom end bought for less than it'd cost me to fix up the dodgy one.
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I dont have an attitude i just like to give people good advise and simple solutions to there problems!
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now now lady's,
at the end of the day you could replace all the things you say and there still might be a problem. at least with a second hand engine thats in good order with average miles on it, it eliminates alot of probible causes. then its just the fuel filter, pump and wiring to check. It would be more cost effective to the owner in the long run that spending hours checking everything. 1 day and the car could be back and running again with an engine swap.
And i would probably be right in saying the majority of G's on here like some death.
If you sit and diddle about with a performance car like the G (or any other kind) you do more harm than good, cos when its finally given the juice the poor engine is not used to it and thinks f*ck this and starts to bugger up.
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Slag is not the guy that did any previous work to my G btw, I'd like to make that clear.
I've taken the car to him as he knows more than anyone I know, what he's doing under the hood of any cars, not just VWs!!!
I come here as i do hold it down as a fantastic forum for information and help and you guys have always been good to me and I proper appreciate it, always have done. When I want to know something you're there and you tell me it's really great 8)
But I've been going back to the slag with your guys advice because I know SOME off you (you know who you are) know what you're talking about and I've said to him but people are saying i should do this? Is this for the best etc? What do you think I should do? What do they mean? If I do this then how does it effect this? So I understand but then I get myself into a pickle about what to do and because I'm not clued up like some off you (I'm getting there slowly) then it leaves me with a G stress head and then i don't know what to do ??? :'(
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Explain to me how changing the engine will cure fueling problems???
Also i'm not gonna put a second hand engine in this car as i just dont trust them as i said above you never get the full story with them and also if it a good engine why isnt it in the owners car??
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It wont. People are just giving advise on cost effectiveness. Most people know Yoof and his knowledge/experience with the polo G40 and engine building and he's trustworthy. No one is saying just go on ebay and pick up the first engine you see.
Always good to have a spare G40 engine anyway imo.
Piston melting issues in the past when we had a big spate of them were mainly caused by fuelling issues (injectors and pump being the main 2)or simply fatigue.
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well just my addition, i see no problem with fitting a second hand engine, if you do a few basic checks you have nothing to worry about, and it would be the easiest and cheapest option, much easier than stripping pistons out.
I have a perfectly fine G40 engine, thats been rebuilt, ive aquired numerous G40 engines that i have sold on, that have been fine, your assuming everyone selling an engine is selling it because its fucked.
You could easily find a complete g40 bottom end for about £150, swapping that is not a massive job either.
The dreaded piston meltage has plagued G40 owners for a long time, and no one has ever said exactly what causes it, i think because there is no direct cause, could be various things.
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owners doing things on the cheap,
Being the biggest!
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The dreaded piston meltage has plagued G40 owners for a long time, and no one has ever said exactly what causes it, i think because there is no direct cause, could be various things.
various other things:
rubbish/monkey/idiotic mechanics,
owners doing things on the cheap,
cheap aftermarket parts (crap filters etc)...
to name a small few
Totally agree engines blowing up is not a mistery at all!
I deal with loads of highly tuned stuff all the time and it doesnt just blow up with out reason!
People are always cutting corners to find cheap power unfortunatly there is no such thing!
How many people on here are running smaller pulleys on there charger and haven't changed the fueling or ignition to cope with the extra boost then wonder why the engine has gone pop?????
that doesnt sound like a mistery to me! lol
Any other mysteries you need solving give scooby doo a call!
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How many people on here are running smaller pulleys on there charger and haven't changed the fueling or ignition to cope with the extra boost then wonder why the engine has gone pop?????
Im hoping not many.
Any other mysteries you need solving give scooby doo a call!
Is it me or was "thelma" fit? lol, quickly edited... just hope no one notices lol. ;D
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betty who?
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The only 2 chicks in scooby doo are Thelma and Daphnie!
Regarding the pulleys you'll prob find its more than you think!
I mean everyones got 50 quid to spend on a pulley but they aint got the other 500 for the map and injectors!
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Just found some supposed tuning chips on ebay how many people have them on there car??
25 quid 170bhp yeah right that sounds like a dead engine to me!
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I go back to my original point about piston metallurgy. Cast pistons wont be as hardy as forged and stock g40s with low miles have melted pistons... that indeed is a little mystery why some have and some haven't!!!
A lad called dub-envy had a cup car block with about 1,000 miles, new injectors, pumps, filters and checked wiring.. And he melted a piston!
Agreed not the majority, which is injectors/pumps/chip/wiring.
A few of us here have had g40s years (nearly 9 for me) know 100s of owners, worked on 10s of cars.... i've owned 5 personally so there is a lot of knowledge on this forum - both technically and cost wise.
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Not doubting the knowledge just no there's a lot of bull shit that flies around on forums which confuses people that arnt so clued up!
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why does it sound like a dead engine?
you know nothing about the company selling, your very half empty with your views on things arent you lol
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I mean everyones got 50 quid to spend on a pulley but they aint got the other 500 for the map and injectors!
why would you need to buy injecters for putting on a pully?
i have a 65mm pully on mine with std injectors and just got a chip from jabba to suit the pully then just retarded the timing slightly to cope with the boost. and my car has 240k on the clock
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When you run more boost you should natrally run more fuel and ignition a "chip" from jabba means dick!
You cannot just supply a chip and say that'll do the job every engine is different!
The car this thread is all about has been to jabba and has one of there chips fitted apparently and weirdly enough its killed itself!
Funny that!
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To give them their due, Jabbasport's chips aren't that bad for a mildly tuned G40.
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why does it sound like a dead engine?
you know nothing about the company selling, your very half empty with your views on things arent you lol
If you want to slate me at least quote me so i know your not just talking to yourself in future!
I might not know anything about the company selling the chips but i know enough about tuning cars to know that any ebay chip is prob gonna cost you dearly in the future!
As i've said above you cant just stick any old chip on an engine and expect it to last!
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Just to chuck my two penneth in. I've run for over 50k in G's with generic chips and smaller pulleys and had no issues. I also had issues (or so I thought) with my bottom end. I bought a second hand engine from Hardchargin who has posted in this thread and it was bob on, no issues at all. In fact that engine made 150bhp on a RR with a generic chip and a smaller pulley. The proof is in the pudding as they say.
As has been said, Dirt came on asking for advice and for cost effectivness if she isnt doing the work herself I would also advise just buying a new block and putting it in, will probably be cheaper. Although as you've said there is no such thing as cheap power. Owning a G is not a cheap exercise.
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why does it sound like a dead engine?
you know nothing about the company selling, your very half empty with your views on things arent you lol
If you want to slate me at least quote me so i know your not just talking to yourself in future!
I might not know anything about the company selling the chips but i know enough about tuning cars to know that any ebay chip is prob gonna cost you dearly in the future!
As i've said above you cant just stick any old chip on an engine and expect it to last!
your starting to annoy me a bit to be honest, every post is like we are having a go at you, we are not, we are just trying to tell you our views/help on G40 stuff, which clearly you dont know much about (that isnt a dig, but from reading your replies, i have come to this conclusion)
Again, just calm down and try and take in what we are saying!
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I'm not having a go at people i just dont like being told i know nothing when actually i'm a VW trained tech i've prob seen and worked on more G40's than you lot have had hot dinners i've got at least 16 years worth of spanners under my belt the last 7 of those have been spent building and tuning performance cars and i'm not talking fitting the odd exhaust and filter i mean propper tuning fully forged turbo monsters!
So i think i'm qualified dont you!
Anyway thanks all for your input its been emotional!
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I'm 30, eat on average 1 hot dinner a day.
Not allowing for leapyears, this would mean 365x30 = 10950 hot dinners.
Considering less than 600 g40s were imported and approximately half are dead, then I I dought you've probably seen or worked on more than the whole of the membership here.
If you consider the above innane, then it was similarly innane to your comment.
This forum is adult, constructive and generally a tight knit friendly community. Please respect that. If you want to argue or talk rubbish, please post on club polo or edition 38.
Pete
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you beat me to it pete,
Of all the G's that are scattered around the country i wouldn't think everyone would have taken to 1 specific vw dealer
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I'm not having a go at people i just dont like being told i know nothing when actually i'm a VW trained tech
Just chill out a bit - you've assumed that everyone else on here is just an ill-informed fuckwit keyboard warrior, and that's not the case.
There are several members on here that work in the automotive industry, including those that work in engine design; engine test; and engine calibration. I'm not decrying you or VW's technician training here, merely pointing out that there are some other people on here that are more than qualified to comment too...
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:D
Thanks for the replies guys :-*
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At the end of the day, we can only advise from our own knowledge and experience. Most of us on here have had them for years and have tried and tested nearly every type of chip/ engine mod available for the G40, plus enhanced research. There are plenty of 'newer' people that now own G40s are still unaware of pitfalls.
We've done vee belts, surpentine setup and toothed setup configurations, on a range of pulley sizes with different sources of chips. The general consensus has always been stay away from ebay for chips and other resistor type mods, most people are aware of this, unless your a chav (not you, i mean in general).
Im pretty sure that in the early years nearly 100% of us used a jabbasport chip aswell. Mike Truelock is still regarded as one of the greats.
Poloace dabbled in chips, with good results. Pitstop aswell with SNS. Now obviously Andy and Yoof (PPP - both may i add highly qualified in engine management and control and motorsport). The later being great as they indicate the type of mods the chip is designed for.
Dedicated chips for cars boosting performances is a multi-million £ industry. Yes individual mapping is always the best to get the best, but for cost effectiveness and general mods chips are better. Injectors, plenty of us have done the research on duty cycles, flow rates etc, whats best for what, map sensors, coil breakdown, type of spark plugs to use, fuel pump issues (some people had melted pistons from doing a G40 conversion and using a non G40 pump), correct oil, healthly charger running issues.
I think the main issue here is that Dirty Slag is just treating Dirrt's engine with caution, i.e. a rebuilding your own is better than buying an unknown engine, yes. Going into a dismantlers yard and picking up an engine, yes is an unknown but we are talking about a known and trusted source being Yoof, or similar PeteG40/DKinght etc. Unknown in your circles Dirty Slag but not in the G40 community.
End of the Day its upto Dirrt, what she wants to do, be it get it rebuilt by yourself or buy a pre done engine and have a spare, whatever.
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I'm not having a go at people i just dont like being told i know nothing when actually i'm a VW trained tech i've prob seen and worked on more G40's than you lot have had hot dinners i've got at least 16 years worth of spanners under my belt the last 7 of those have been spent building and tuning performance cars and i'm not talking fitting the odd exhaust and filter i mean propper tuning fully forged turbo monsters!
So i think i'm qualified dont you!
Anyway thanks all for your input its been emotional!
Thought id quote you then you dont get mad. Just chill out or fuck off. ;)
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At least if you buy another engine and melt that too, the chances are you will still have 4 good pistons in total. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I'm not having a go at people i just dont like being told i know nothing when actually i'm a VW trained tech i've prob seen and worked on more G40's than you lot have had hot dinners i've got at least 16 years worth of spanners under my belt the last 7 of those have been spent building and tuning performance cars and i'm not talking fitting the odd exhaust and filter i mean propper tuning fully forged turbo monsters!
So i think i'm qualified dont you!
Anyway thanks all for your input its been emotional!
Thought id quote you then you dont get mad. Just chill out or fuck off. ;)
You do seem to either come across or that you think of yourself (whether you mean it or not) as a know it all and the big I am on everything, and wont accept any input from anyone else, especially with someone with specific experience.
I work on Tornado GR4s for a living, we rely on working as a team, Ive a wealth of experience and knowledge on it but still ask and accept advice on what im doing, be it good or bad advice, not just get in a huff about how i know what best blah blah blah because ive the most experience on the trade desk. Theres more to life.
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hardchargin40 I applaud your first reply.
The slag came here to lay it out as I was going back to him saying I've been adviced this, this and this, what do you think? Are they right? Are the not? What's best?
Which I don't see any harm in, as you can't always take what someone on a forum says as the solution or the best one because everyone is different when they do have the right answer. My original post says nothing about cost tbf either? I haven't asked for the cheapset option, i think you should all know by now I'm not tight when it comes to my G! At this moment in time I didn't see why a new engine is needed and that's what I was trying to get from you and then you all just said new engine ??? I think I should ask for posis and negis next time to each option so no confusion.
I can see the logic and your points and why your suggesting i do it :) but you all advice it like I'm mature, have a garage, tinkle with it myself at the weekend, hide under the hood on a sunday to get away from the wife and wait for the roast. I'm probably the not commited enough or frowned upon G40 owner you've ever met, was a dream car off mine to own so I did it! Doesn't mean I have to mechanic it because I own it, but I guess this goes into the women woning cars like this debate and what do they expect.
If i need a new engine, I'll pay for it when it needs it. The plan was to fix this and then start putting by a fund because i well know something is going to happen to it after I fix this. It had a rebuild 30k ago iirc, so ok yes it is suggesting weakness and age with other things but that comes with the history off this G too! It was sat for 3 years off its life because the owner couldn't keep fixing it after it broke everytime he fixed something else! I don't need a spare engine, i 've got nowhere for one haha, do you get what I mean? But i know why you're saying I should have one :D and I might even say it after it goes bang again but replacing whats broke now will make it new again and checking pump and injectors, job done. It just sent me off on one and into a pickle because i was then like, why haven't you lot been buying new engines everytime a piston goes etc!?!
At least if you buy another engine and melt that too, the chances are you will still have 4 good pistons in total. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for that :D ;D
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thanks Dirrt for, and i mean this completely honestly, a mature reply - in what is quite a tense thread
Seems that you are keen to learn and if someone is, then most of us here are more than happy to help out.
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i bought another engine when 2 of my pistons started to de-grade and one peice broke off one. i only repaced the 4 pistons at that point because the engine i got was fully stripped down and in boxes. but will be rebuilding the spare puting it in then get the original engine rebored.
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thanks Dirrt for, and i mean this completely honestly, a mature reply - in what is quite a tense thread
Seems that you are keen to learn and if someone is, then most of us here are more than happy to help out.
I'm always mature when it matters Pete, which is when it counts (serious topics, personal beliefs, morals and G talk) apart from that thiz iz thee internetz clarrttt and I don't take it seriously :P Haha :D
And thank you Pete for your continuous input, advice, support etc when I've needed it and not being a dick like some people can be and some forums are. Mind you there's always one but I think anyone has the same view on owners forums :-X You're always one that I can guarantee an answer from and to be honest... Well I'm shouting a thanks, hayesey and DK have helped me in the past too, so credit where it's due and to the others! It doesn't go unappreciated! But I can also see the slags points clearly as well. I don't need any violins but when you got 20 men telling me how i should be doing something and they all think there way is the best and only way and they can't be wrong and the advice not being the same, it's hard to know what's best if you don't know yourself ;) and it does give me a wee headache :D All part of the learning though and owning a G!
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sorry to bring this post back alive but did you get it sorted dirrt as mine has just done the same and i feel in the same situation as yourself when it comes to knowledge etc etc