Afternoon all,
So pulling away from a set of traffic lights 2 weeks ago and my engine cut out, when I restarted it drove but rattled heavily and didn't pull. Pulled over immediately and towed it home.
When I took of the dizzy cap it looked rough and the rotor arm blade was bent slightly. So replaced them. And while I had the bonnet up I changed the inlet mani for a bored gt one.
Changed the leads and put them in order of 1-3-4-2.
Now comes the less than exciting part. It's not starting.
There's a healthy looking spark. Car was garaged for 2 weeks while I was on holiday. And when I start without the ht leads attached to the plugs. I can smell fuel on the plugs after. So presumably fuel is not the issue.
So I am a little stuck as to what it can be. Any help would be much appreciated
Plug order. . Anti clockwise from 9 oclock on dizzy... just double check
Yeah I checked and rechecked that. Plug 1 relates to the far left spark plug in the block. When I try starting, it's a very clean noise, no spluttering. Could that mean its not getting enough fuel through. Is there a way of checking fuel lines/pump? When I first turn the engine over there is a small pop and then it's just the start motor trying. Small puff of smoke comes out the exhaust. Could the ht leads be faulty?
Evening,
So the G is still stationary on the drive. Fuel seems fine, starter motor sounds good. And strong sparks from the spark plugs.
When I tried jumping it the other day, the was a rattle from the engine that wasn't previously there.
When I took the timing belt cover off, the belt wasn't in great shape. Not sure what could have done this to it.
A few more
You can test to see if they are sealing properly by turning the head so the valves are facing up, take the camshaft out first, then fill the combustion area up with a bit of clean oil leave it over night and see if it seaps through
youll have to get them out to see if they are bent
Those marks on the exhaust valve look like it could possibly be from the face of the piston, not 100 percent though, just going by those pictures, and the looks of that cambelt isnt much better, looks likes caught something and possibly jumped a tooth :S
Yeah, lad I bought it off said he had belt and water pump done beginning of the year. Should have got it done regardless.
The risks of buying a cheap G with no history.
Will it be cheaper to buy valves of a whole head? One on eBay ATM going for 90
Thats the problem with these cars, theyve been fiddled with by idiots, all the problems with mine are because its been fiddled with, the water pump and cambelt was done on mine just before i bought it, after seeing this i might do it too be safe lol
£90 sounds decent for a whole head with valves :) might be better waiting for one to come up on here by a trusted member for peace of mine, but its up to you
yours might have some value left in it, as it would still be a salvageable and a good basis for a BVH conversion, so can make some money back, all is not lost :)
Though on the other hand Taylor, haven't you discovered a 1341cc rebuild and ported head that you didn't know about? Every cloud has a silver lining and all that!
What are the costs in converting and boring? Sounds like a decent option. Make the 1.3 fly a little faster.
Quote from: Andy on July 06, 2013, 09:08:51 AM
Though on the other hand Taylor, haven't you discovered a 1341cc rebuild and ported head that you didn't know about? Every cloud has a silver lining and all that!
indeed :D thats why ive stopped moaning so much about my car problems haha. Though its still cost me alot to put right, so far ive found
psd 1341 cam
psd 1341 chip
psd full blend
1341 bottom end
helix paddle clutch (caused me no end of trouble though)
accralite pistons
psd 51mm throttle body
ported head
gt inlet
forged rods (unsure of make)
If someone would like to price that up lol
1341 is awesome! So strong! I recommend it! Mine used to pink soo bad, yet the forged pistons took the strain with ease
i have no idea of price, but imagine its rather expensive, its worth its worth it though, mines not running right, needs a remap, yet it spins up in third under cornerning in the dry
Does sound like a worthwhile upgrade. My daily is currently my mums passat. So the quicker I can get mine back on the road the better.
Are the 1272 valves still readily available or did I read they are now obselete?
vales for 1341 are the same, only BVH exhaust valves are different
unsure if they are obsolete most things for g40's are now
if you put new/used valves in, they will need re seating, and whilst thats being done it may be worth new guides and stem seals. Unsure of cost though
saw that £90 head on ebay, looks decent! all skimmed ready to go :)
Didnt know u got forged rods too taylor... got a pic? Someone might be able to iD
Quote from: PeteG40 on July 06, 2013, 12:59:37 PM
Didnt know u got forged rods too taylor... got a pic? Someone might be able to iD
did have some pictures but have lost them... on photo bucket... how one does that i dont know
they have 66 with an underscore engraved into the bearing caps
seen a pic of a standard rod and it didnt have that, all the edges are machined opposed to being cast or soft if you know what i mean? like they look like theyve been made in a cnc machine
i will be getting my sump of soon as i put a nice big dent in it, right now the engine has no box on it and no engine mounts holding it in lol
being supported by a widow maker, motorcycle stand and an axle stand haha, soon as i get my gearbox back on and the ppp exhaust ill get a pic up :)
The end of a stock rod is machined flat. Forged rods are huge! Pec and k1 do them. They both have arp bolts not nuts so easy to tell.
A bit late into this thread, but just how bad are the valves? Looks like minimal contact across the exhaust valves only. Have you had them checked ? I don't know about sodium filled valves, but ordinary solids can be trued up.
Quote from: PeteG40 on July 06, 2013, 08:23:57 PM
The end of a stock rod is machined flat. Forged rods are huge! Pec and k1 do them. They both have arp bolts not nuts so easy to tell.
ah dam! your right, i found an image of some g40 standard rods, mine aren't forged, thought they were forged all this time :( way to burst my bubble pete
however mine say 66 on the bottom
these say 5.5
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9409.0
whats the difference?
sorry to hijack this thread
think it might be matched weights? or the machine they were made on?
Quote from: scotsjohn on July 06, 2013, 08:27:30 PM
A bit late into this thread, but just how bad are the valves? Looks like minimal contact across the exhaust valves only. Have you had them checked ? I don't know about sodium filled valves, but ordinary solids can be trued up.
The inlet valves aren't sitting flush. When I look closely at the pistons all 4 have rings on the surface where they look like that have touched the valves.
Thinking I may drop them out tomorrow and have a proper look. Will it be obvious?
Cheers
Quote from: PeteG40 on July 06, 2013, 08:56:19 PM
think it might be matched weights? or the machine they were made on?
either way i dont have forged rods :P
yeah, maybe they balance them and have different spec caps depending on what weight is needed to balance the rod out?
remember reading a thing about tuning company's who take material off the rod to make them perfectly balanced, maybe this was VW's way of making the rod as near as balanced as possible for the PY engine but keeping costs and production time as low as possible?
maybe just a guess
should be, if you stand it against a know straight valve, maybe an inlet one
or roll it round on a flat surface, and as it rotates you should be able to see it moving up and down is that makes sense?
thats how i checked once when i had no other tools lol
Right hit a small bump putting the engine back together. The 10 bolts holding the cam down didnt all hit the 25Nm mark. When i removed them, a few brought the studs out with them. I am presuming this means they are fecked. And i should have replaced them regardless.
I have replaced pretty much at the other necessary bolts but forgot these. So should i be replacing all studs and bolts?
Er arent these 6 nm then angle tighten?