Rite as you all know ive done the conversion n my seat.. naw i done that back in nov last year...
Ive reacently had a few problems!!
I blew a fuel pump fuse ( the one under the bonnet ) i replaced that it worked fine for about 3hours..... then it decided to give up the ghost.....
Looked at the fuse i had just replaced................. it was fine... Strange??
So i come to the concluson my fuel pump had given up the ghost and decided to stop working?
In all my wisdom i put a live 12v connection on the live of the fuel pump in my seat... it primed.. and the car fired up......... job done .......... but i was still stuck @ the fact it will work off a 12v connection but not off my igntion.....
so i replaced the fuse box and the 3 wires that go to it... put a new fuse in it ........ same problem no fuel pump priming......... so again i tried the 12v connection and the car fired..
Naw i jumped into my car 2day to move it from the front of my house to the garage ... (200yards) connected my 12v live... fired it up.... drove in fine... disconnected it.. done some bodywork on it... went to fire it up again to drive out......
wouldnt start.... had a god look @ the car come to the conclusion that there was no spark in all 4 plugs.. so i changed the blackbox that the main ht comes off... connected to the back of the car... u know wot i mean.......... anyway.... changed that.. fired up fine drove it out...
Went to start it 10mins ago .......... woudnt fire... checked the fuel... got fuel... checked plugs... got sparks...... still wont fire................? any ideas lads..
what do you mean the black box attached to the back of the car? i think you mean the coil which is on the side originally but is probably else where on the seat... i think from what your saying that you need to go through all the loom and double check it against a proper g40..sounds like something isnt connected up correctly. has it ever ran properly? did you use ALL of the g40 loom? inclding the ones that go to the back of the car for the pump? this is a major problem with conversions unless done absolutly spot on you get problems like this..harder still is the fact you have the engine in another car..
can you get hold of a g40, a mates for example that you can compare stuff with..thats what i would do i think if possible.
does the car have an immobiliser of any sort stopping the pump from priming? just that you can get it to prime manually but something is stopping it? immobiliser?
Quote from: supercharged spaniel on November 22, 2008, 11:01:34 AM
what do you mean the black box attached to the back of the car? i think you mean the coil which is on the side originally but is probably else where on the seat... i think from what your saying that you need to go through all the loom and double check it against a proper g40..sounds like something isnt connected up correctly. has it ever ran properly? did you use ALL of the g40 loom? inclding the ones that go to the back of the car for the pump? this is a major problem with conversions unless done absolutly spot on you get problems like this..harder still is the fact you have the engine in another car..
can you get hold of a g40, a mates for example that you can compare stuff with..thats what i would do i think if possible.
The car has run fine for 11months..inside the car is all orignal seat loom the guy who wired it up for me used the seat loom inside and the g40 engine loom and placed thm together... im stuck ive got fuel and sparks why isnt it firing??
Quote from: supercharged spaniel on November 22, 2008, 11:06:32 AM
does the car have an immobiliser of any sort stopping the pump from priming? just that you can get it to prime manually but something is stopping it? immobiliser?
It has no immboliser... but its run when i put a 12v connection on it anyway.............. im puzzled ive got fuel and sparks ? no start though
test for 12v at the fuel pump when you prime the ignition
No life at the pump when i turn the ignition? like 0.01v
so how can you have fuel and sparks if the fuel pump isn't working? I'd check the wiring between the front of the car and the fuel pump. Time to get the multimeter out.
Quote from: hayesey on November 22, 2008, 04:14:28 PM
so how can you have fuel and sparks if the fuel pump isn't working? I'd check the wiring between the front of the car and the fuel pump. Time to get the multimeter out.
Heheh if u read in my orignal post im using a permant live from the battery to get the fuel pump to work.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Tony100 on November 22, 2008, 05:00:56 PM
Quote from: hayesey on November 22, 2008, 04:14:28 PM
so how can you have fuel and sparks if the fuel pump isn't working? I'd check the wiring between the front of the car and the fuel pump. Time to get the multimeter out.
Heheh if u read in my orignal post im using a permant live from the battery to get the fuel pump to work.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
but your not really getting fuel are you? well you are but your using a permenant live to get the fuel which is where your problem lies? no? :-\ obvioulsy something wrong with the wiring to the pumpor something along those lines...i'd start with trying to get fuel properly as it should...then go from there.
been picking my brains for the last 2days naw !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and ive come to the conclusion that ive got 2 different relays on my fuel pump bit.....
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y243/rochey88/100_1296.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y243/rochey88/100_1303.jpg)
Naw ive phone vw and they have said that the one numbered " 373 " is off a diesel polo... and the silver one is un-tracable?!
One's the ECU relay, the other is the fuel pump relay. The ECU relay will come on with the ignition, and can be held on by the ECU. The ECU controls the fuel pump relay.
If you short the fuel pump relay to the battery you can damage the transistor within the ECU that drives the relay. Not sure whether that's happened here. It's fairly common for the fuel pump relay to pack up.
did you not also flame up on a post about buying a ecu off someone that you said was faulty???
this explains your problem lol
yeah bridging the relay does blow a transistor, i had it on 2 of my ECU's, i cant remember which it is, but they are replaceable...
thanks for all the responce guys.... so wat would u suggest i do?? buy a new ecu and new relays??
Quote from: Andy on November 25, 2008, 05:34:15 PM
One's the ECU relay, the other is the fuel pump relay. The ECU relay will come on with the ignition, and can be held on by the ECU. The ECU controls the fuel pump relay.
If you short the fuel pump relay to the battery you can damage the transistor within the ECU that drives the relay. Not sure whether that's happened here. It's fairly common for the fuel pump relay to pack up.
That sounds about right to be honest.. is there anyway of checking??
so the ecu i sold (what you didnt pay for in full) you was fine.....
karma....
no! lol ive thrown your ecu out! im using another ecu i bought of clubpolo...
yea sure....
Problems solved.... found out id blown a transistor in the ecu... and id poped both relays under the bonnet :D thanks for all the info guys :D:D:D:D:D:D cost me 122quid all together :D