Club G40 Forum

Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: langersG40 on November 14, 2011, 09:27:45 AM

Title: timing up the G40
Post by: langersG40 on November 14, 2011, 09:27:45 AM
Right i reuilding the G40 after stripping it down (rebuilt head, new gasket, bolts, water pump etc) my first issue is the new water pump is leaking >:( bolts are tight etc new seal is on ( i havent run the car up yet) some i loosen the bolts and noticed the timing was out, so looked on auto data and haynes to double check and yes i had timed it up to the Z not the 0 so i line it all up!!! can i get it to do it lol can i hell why is this?? its like its a tooth out or something but the book says for PY engines the 0 must be in line with the pointer thing

any help i would be most gratful

cheers

Langers
Title: Re: timing up the G40
Post by: PeteG40 on November 14, 2011, 09:43:41 AM
Water pump - are the bolts over tight - they are only very loose torque setting.  Was the block clean in this area?

Z to O is normally about a tooth out - are you turning it over by the bottom end. i once did the school boy error thing of using the top end to turn it over and in one revolution can skip a tooth!

Should be lined up with the left hand marker of the two - the other is 5 degree advance for ignition timing.
Title: Re: timing up the G40
Post by: langersG40 on November 14, 2011, 01:04:02 PM
yeah block was clean gave it a good clean (brake cleaner sand paper) and yep turning it over by the bottom end

cheers fells for the reply tho

ttfn
Title: Re: timing up the G40
Post by: Yoof on November 14, 2011, 06:35:47 PM
Make sure you've not pinched the water pump o-ring when putting it in, some of the GSF/ECP ones are a crap fit too.

Title: Re: timing up the G40
Post by: ereeiz on November 16, 2011, 04:05:37 AM
Ah water pumps are a PITA unless everything's lovely and clean and new (may as well be for the sake of £20 or so).

Also (may sound daft) but make sure you only turn the cambelt in the direction it would travel whilst the engine is running, if you go back it can quickly slack off the tensioner (the water pump in this case). I always fill with water and run the car up after until the fan cuts in/out and the heaters are hot. This way it's up to max (well as near as needs be) pressure and any leaks will become evident, saves having to buy coolant again after it's pissed out all over the floor. I've learnt the hard way in the past :P