Fixed all the leaks on my new motor built up oil pressure then stuck the hall sender back it but it won't fire not Evan trying to fire wats the best way to quickly check for spark and fuel?? Everything inthe ignition system is new all earths are new and tight fuel pumps all new and can be heard priming on turn of the key.
Pull a plug out and leave it connected to the HT lead, rest it so the base of the plug is in contact with the engine somewhere on some metal (so it can earth). When you turn the engine over it should spark.
My guess is the leads in the wrong order
Have you have the cambelt off? Cam timing 180* out?
Getting no spark on any cylinders, coils new earths are new. Is there a way to check the hall sender.
Im taking my 2 working dizzy's tomorrow to antony to see if its that but any other help would be good as i have got spares for most things.
Check your connection to the hall sender. I had the same problem when one of the pin clasps wasn't connecting properly with the pin as it had been pushed back.
Think all my symptoms point towards hall sender well find out 2mro
It's not the hall sender. The timing gun isn't even flashing so there is deffinetly no power through the leads. Tried it on my car to prove the gun works and that's working.
Any ideas?
IIRC the hall sender is what tells the ECU to run. If the ECU is working then it tells the coil to work. So if your fuel pump is running while the engine cranks but there's no spark then either coil (could be faulty new one?) or ECU? If Jezza has his car there I'd try swapping bits one by one, it'll probably work out the quickest method. Then when you find the faulty part put it on his car and see if the same thing happens
Are the fusebox interior to engine bay harness connections made properly?
Connector by the coil and the coil connector the right way around?
No my car is still awaiting for me to drop the engine in. The plugs are the correct way plugged in. Noticed that with them swapped the fuel Pump didn't prime. Just did a con check of the cables and they are all in working order. My dizzy was working on my car and that's connected I'm antony's. Just checking the fuse box now. Fuel is defiantly being sprayed as we can smell it. Only thing left is ecu.
Right so still cant get it to start got fuel as i can hear the injectors firing and can smell the fuel from repeated failed starts but defiantly have no spark on any cylinders, checked this via the use of a timing light which is proven to work and by taking the spark plug out and firing it whilst it was on a earthed. have checked the following things:
changed dizzy to one known to work
changed the coil (althought the one in there at the moment is brand new genuine part from gsf)
checked the continuity of all the cables going to the coil so that inlucdes the one from the ignition switch the one from the ecu and the one from the idle switch alll checked out fine
checked the connectors near the coil these are the correct way around as the per the haynes wiring diagram also when swapped over the fuel pump no longer primes
checked the order of the HT leads numerous times
checkd the earthing points for the engine for the battery and for the coil all below 0.3 ohms
checked the secureness of the connections to the hall sender and to the fuse box and the coil
checked the rortor arm is corrrectly aligned with the key way on the dizzy shaft
rotated the dizzy cap 180 degrees (although wasnt sure this would realy do anything !)
checked that all connectors where in the correct place on top of the inlet menifiold.
things that are brand new include dizzy cap, ht leads, spark plugs, coil.
checked the way the chip was inserted to the ecu was the corrrect way round
when i installed the chip in the ecu i was working on a esd safe mat with an esd earthed wrist strap
still no spark !!! any other ideas or tests that i can do to rule things out or solve the problem the wonly thing i havnt tried changing is the ecu which i was overley carefull with when moving around and putting the chip in and it worked fine in my car before.
If i cant fix this by the end of the week i will ship the car to TSR performance to get it running but i would prefere to fix it myself to save time hassle and money if possible.
swapped king lead?
yup king leads brand new aswell
Try Jezza's ECU.
Have you buzzed out the coil driver output from the ECU to the coil connector? The output FETs on the ECUs can and do fail.
Quote from: dub-disaster on August 03, 2011, 12:07:25 PM
yup king leads brand new aswell
but have you tried swapping it for another one? new doesn't necessarily mean it works
Will try old king lead, have buzzed out the cables between the ecu and the coil connector (blue black) all where fine which I'm assuming is the coil driver is there any way to check for signal maybe with a scope ??
Also read this thread on club polo which identified the drive transistor giving similar problems I've pulled mine out and checked it although it seems fine I'll replace it any way though( also checked all other transistors in the ecu all are fine) hopefully I'll try jezzas ecu.
I'll report back how I get on.
Will pop round tomorrow with my ecu mate.
Ok this is an update,
Today I refitted the ecu and dizzy and with the ignition on and with the dizzy removed but the hall sender still pluged in when I rotate the dizzy I can hear the fuel pumps running then stop when I stop turning the dizzy by hand. I'm testing it like this as my battery doesn't like all the cranking and is probably going to die soon. I also disconnected the injectors as I didn't want to fill the oil and motor full of fuel.
Other checks done today include I checked for voltage at the coil and there's 12.5 volts
I connected a scope to the output from the ecu to the coil (green and black wire) and ground when cranking the engine I am getting a signal, amplitude looks like 20-40mv but my scope reading is pretty rusty not sure if this is enough I was expecting more like a couple of volt signal. I will upload the picture later for any one else to give an opinion weather the signal is big enough for the amp.
I also checked the coil again as it appears that the coil is getting supply voltage and a singal to fire I did this by using an old coil still no spark i also connected an old ht lead directly to both coils still no spark. Not sure weather this would work as the rotor arm has a resistor in it if I remember correctly but thought if anything this would just blow the spark plug up both still nothing.
So to conclude I think the hall sender is functioning correctly as the fuel pumps fire when the dizzy is rotated with ignition on. There is voltage to the coil and a signal (of some form) from the ecu but still no spark from any plugs on any cylinders using old or new leads on either of the coils.
Any ideas??
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv92/antywill666/photo-55.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv92/antywill666/photo-56.jpg)
if you ignore the voltage reading in the top left hand corners as i dont think i had set the scope up correctly for these to read the peak voltages only. these two pictures are both of the signal that is obtained with the ignition on with everything connected and manualy turning the dizzy by hand. Volts per division shown in the bottom left hand corner along with time per division.
Does any one know if these are the sort of readyings i should be getting or if this is not a sufficient signal to drive the amplifier in the coil?
i may also if i have time before work just hook this scope up and see what signal the hall sender is giving to the ecu.Although i dont think this is the problem as the injectors are firing, it may be worth comparing the signals as im assuming they should be roughly the same.
I think the coil driver output is a low-side drive - that is to say it's a switched ground. So you'll need to stick your meter neg/ground probe to the output, and the positive probe to +12V.
Ok I'll give that a go 2mro, cheers Andy any idea way the signal should look like on the scope? And is the signal from the hall sender A low-side drive aswell?
Any more news dude?
For anyone intrested Fitted jezza's ecu problem solved instant spark.
Sweet! You fired her up yet?
Not yet mate, was going to do it today but I had to work so I'm going to do it 2mro afternoon then I'll whip the leaky rad of have that fixed and get it mot'd on e the new ecu turns up :)
Another update, found out today whilst mucking about with my old ecu is actualy the new chip that's faulty not my ecu.
Hey i said it was your chip!
I must of not pushed the old one in hard enough when I changed it for fear of breaking it !! Hopefully I'll get a new chip in time for mot and I've got a spare working exu now as I bought one .