My engine has been rebuilt and just waiting on the head to come back from man in shed.
Not too sure on how to go about running it in. The final oil i will be using will be redline 5w40 after 3k. I plan to use millers running in oil to start with.
From another thread i was going to follow these guidelines for starting:
I'd unplug the hallsender so the injectors/ignition don't fire- then turn the engine over on the starter for 30-40 seconds, depending on compression and how healthy your battery is you might be better off removing the plugs.
Once you've got oil pressure I usually remove the feed pipe to either g-lader or turbo and ensure that's free flowing too.
Connect everything back up, crank over for 30sec- then plug the hall sender back in, and fire it.
I'd then keep the rpm at 1500-2000 for 10 min or so, check for leaks, and once warm set the ignition timing.
How should i go about driving/running the engine in on the road?
Ooh, this old chestnut, depends on your viewpoint. There's generally two options; take it steady and let everything bed in gradually, or drive quite hard (but in a constructive way). Been a few years since I've rebuilt an engine so I'll let someone a bit more experienced comment.
Something to do with piston rings etc settling better when driven hard is all I can remember now!
Ok thanks for your help though. ;D
I'd defo disconnect hall sender and do the process like you said to make sure the oil is pumped round the engine before your 1st start.
I have not done much wearing in my self but I think the general idear is wear it in slow and the engine has better life, drive it a little hard for less life and maybe slighty more power, or not!
I would defo take it very easy and don't put it under any or much load for atleast 300 miles, little more at 500, 1000 miles n I would say you can drive it hard!
Thats only my opinion!
P.s, I ran my engine in on the polo I got now after a re-build,
I don't know what the oil grades were but I know I had 2 different types before I got to 10w40,
(mate told me at the time) i was told and did my 1st change at bwt 100 miles and second at 500!
Hope that helps, mine runs sweet!
I think what i will do is use running in oil for 500 miles, then change it to 10w40 semi synthetic then after 3k use 5w40 redline oil.
Will drive nice and easy off boost till the 1st oil change is done then start increasing it till 1k is covered.
ive heard that engine braking while running in also helps the rings bed in both ways, up and down.
What do you mean by that?
Using a lower gear to slow the car i.e. when you change down to a lower gear than you would normally use for that speed, the revs raise and 'brake' the car speed.
Ah i see. Thanks
I would deffently take it easy whilst bedding in your new engine and do regular oil changes like you are going to.
Interesting fact I found out off my mate was he got told by a engine builder when running in his new engine to cruise round at 20mph put it into top gear then put it his foot down then when he felt the engine started to pick up, slow back down again using engine braking and keep on repeating process. This process helps to bed in the rings better.
Thanks for all your input guys. Found this on the net and seems like a goos way to do it.
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm
Right the engine is in and running but there is very strange sound. Sounds like a metal on metal noise. Could this be the pistons? Wossner pistons are coated in something to help them bed in. Has anyone else had a similar sound?
Oil pressure was seen on gauge before starting.
What was the oil pressure reading?
100 psi at cold.
Done an oil change now and there were very small deposits of metal on my mag sump lug. And i mean small, but you would expect that after a fresh rebuild as all the internals would have to bed in and you would get wear.
Ok i think i found the problem. The plugs were black so the car is running rich and inside the hole the pistons look normal. Little tiny tiny bit of an oil stain on one but i guess thats normal for 1st start. Would of been a little oil inside bore when it was being assembled? Could also see the valve going down and back in place so i know i defiantly dont have a problem with timing. So with fresh oil in again new filter, then turned the engine over by hand. I noticed that the noise was made again and thinking it was the charger but there is no way it can be that. It was fully serviced and has done hardly any miles. So i looked towards the back of the engine and i could hear it better. The only thing down there near the timing end is the water pump. And NO i didn't get a new one for rebuild as it was new in march from vw. But it sounds like the bearing in the pump has gone. That would explain this terrible grinding noise. Hopefully that will sort it.
Bit of a school boy there but i hope this is the problem. Will find out when i get a new pump from vw next week. Oh and it cant come under warranty as i have to take my car to them to have a look and its not drivable haha just my luck.
At least it's something simple and relatively cheap though. Have you done the screwdriver stethoscope test on it to confirm? Did you get the pump with metal or plastic blades?
Hope you get it sorted after all the time effort and money you've pumped into it! 8)
Ok its not the pump. It still made the noise with the pump disconnected. Suspected it was the windage tray so investigating that. But also with it all connected up i noticed that the noise was coming from the lower timing pointer. Was catching the charger belt. So gonna bend it or cut it off and see what difference that makes.
I'm confused, how can you run the engine with the water pump disconnected?
Sorry, i should of made it more clear. I could hear the noise just turning the crank initially, so i took the belt off and turned the crank back and forth very slightly and could still hear the noise. So its not the head, not the water pump leaves either this windage tray or the pointer.
Well it was the metal lower timing pointer. Few taps with a hammer and the noise has gone.
*like*
nice easy fix ;D
Yeah i was glad. Took it out on the road for the 1st time yesterday, just a mile round where we live as the bonnet is still off. Seemed to be running ok. A/F mix was good as well.