Just wondered if there was anything to watch for or do other than prime oil system when starting up on a new engine?
Also was wondering what's the best run in procedure and oil to use I was going to just use a 10w40 mineral oil for the first 500 miles is it worth going for special "running in oil"?
Finaly my car has no mot so cannot drive one the road but I'm assuming once started up first time needs to be run 2k plus for 10 mintues or so on the drive for the new tappets (old/used cam new tappets) turn it will need running in on the road with high cylinder pressures full throttle burst in higher gears to bed the rings in. How do people get round this before getting an mot on it ? Or what have others done ?? Thanks guys
if its the very first start, i would start it and leave it to idle for 10 mins to get the oil flowing through all the ports and make sure everything is working as it should. but everyone one has there own ways of doing things.
I thought you shouldn't let it idle because there's not enough oil pressure at idle to get a good flow of oil all over the engine, and you don't want to glaze the rings ?!
Yeah that's about the worst thing you can do. Do not let it idle for ten mins, keep the rpm up. I'd not bother with running in oil, just change it very often
i stand corrected.
Id turn the the engine over by hand a few times before starting,but that's just me.
I'd unplug the hallsender so the injectors/ignition don't fire- then turn the engine over on the starter for 30-40 seconds, depending on compression and how healthy your battery is you might be better off removing the plugs.
Once you've got oil pressure I usually remove the feed pipe to either g-lader or turbo and ensure that's free flowing too.
Connect everything back up, crank over for 30sec- then plug the hall sender back in, and fire it.
I'd then keep the rpm at 1500-2000 for 10 min or so, check for leaks, and once warm set the ignition timing.
I would avoid any high load in high gears until you've got some miles under its belt, never had a problem with the ring pack on any Polo pistons (or modern piston designs for that matter).
Generally I'd use light load and the full RPM for the first few hundred miles, then start to increase the load/speed- engine will take a few thousand until it's properly bedded in.
Having said all that, I've run engines that have been kicked in the balls straight off, and ones that have had full production run ins. No differance between power and oil consumption between them...
Quote from: Yoof on April 09, 2011, 09:54:08 AM
I'd unplug the hallsender so the injectors/ignition don't fire- then turn the engine over on the starter for 30-40 seconds, depending on compression and how healthy your battery is you might be better off removing the plugs.
Once you've got oil pressure I usually remove the feed pipe to either g-lader or turbo and ensure that's free flowing too.
Connect everything back up, crank over for 30sec- then plug the hall sender back in, and fire it.
I'd then keep the rpm at 1500-2000 for 10 min or so, check for leaks, and once warm set the ignition timing.
I would avoid any high load in high gears until you've got some miles under its belt, never had a problem with the ring pack on any Polo pistons (or modern piston designs for that matter).
Generally I'd use light load and the full RPM for the first few hundred miles, then start to increase the load/speed- engine will take a few thousand until it's properly bedded in.
Having said all that, I've run engines that have been kicked in the balls straight off, and ones that have had full production run ins. No differance between power and oil consumption between them...
cheers for that yoof ill follow that proceedure, as for oil ive gone for a straight 30 mineral oil to use when would you suggest oil changes once after first 50 miles then again after 500 both changes using 30 weight mineral oil ?? thanks again mate
Mineral oil? Really?
I'd always run in on the oil you're going to use normally.
Personally I run up to temp- drop and filter the oil (15micron gauze) and fit a new filter, then run for a few hundred miles, repeat, and change the oil at 500 and 1000miles.
If you've used run in lube, or assembley grease, I'd replace the oil on the first drop, as it will be contaminated.
Quote from: Richg40 on April 10, 2011, 10:20:46 AM
Mineral oil? Really?
I thought use mineral oil as it let's things bed in better than a semi synth would, that's what I've read in a few places. Although I may now just use some regular 10/40 semi synth