Whats the socket size or torx size is needed for the bolts?
How do you put new studs in? I was going to put the nut on and then tighten it till the stud was fully in, but not sure if thats correct?
oryt mate i can neva remember but its ither a 10 or 12 multi spline socket i gotr my set from mechine mart wrked a treat for me haha,
and personaly i just get 2 nuts and lock them together on the stud thred and use the outer nut to send the stud in
As Boyzey said thats the best way to fit the studs, What you could also do if you want is to put them in with a bit of studlock on the threads, this keeps the studs in if you ever need to undo the nuts again at any time. I recently aquired some new drive shaft bolts which were allan headed which made them a lot easier to fit and torque up.
Quote from: boyzey on January 15, 2011, 05:50:50 PM
oryt mate i can neva remember but its ither a 10 or 12 multi spline socket i gotr my set from mechine mart wrked a treat for me haha,
and personaly i just get 2 nuts and lock them together on the stud thred and use the outer nut to send the stud in
Cheers, at least i have an idea so i dont go buying the wrong bits.
Thats the way i thought of doing it, cheers!
Quote from: BIG E on January 15, 2011, 07:48:22 PM
As Boyzey said thats the best way to fit the studs, What you could also do if you want is to put them in with a bit of studlock on the threads, this keeps the studs in if you ever need to undo the nuts again at any time. I recently aquired some new drive shaft bolts which were allan headed which made them a lot easier to fit and torque up.
I have got some high temp ceramic anti seize grease that im going to use for them.
When did you get them bolts? When i got some last august they were the 10/12 point ones still.
I think i got the bolts from GSF, give them a bell to confirm. Another tip try and use Stainless Steel nuts on your manifold studs, cuts down the corrosion and it sure makes life a lot easier when you have to take them off.
I got mine from vw last time. Might be why there different.
Will have a look at stainless nuts. There 12mm by 1.25 thread?
Stainless steel nuts will lock themselves onto the studs because it has a different expansion rate to the mild steel studs, once fitted and the engines been through a few heat cycles doubt they will come of best to just use the normal copper ones.
You know i was just thinking that after i said that.
Cheers antony. Trying to avoid using stainless on the engine really.
Use that stuff I told you about when you came up and the stainless/carbon combo will be fine, (it's tried and tested on power generation steam turbines, works fine, 1400c iirc!) also use inconel studs if you can get them and nord lock washers to hold the nuts on.
I got some grease, ceramic stuff thats good up to 1400 degress.
Put the studs in last night!
Bit late for inconel then, lol. Tbh there is not much gain to be had with SS nuts over the copper ones, the copper ones are normally squashed a little to make them like nylock, but SS ones will require nordlock's or similar to hold them on, for the relatively low heat levels created on the G (in comparison to say a BT lump) the stock studs/nut combo is fairly adequate for the intended use.
i no i used 2 steel nuts wen i did my exhaust manifold gasket while ago as i rounded 2 nuts uwps haha, and they came loose i put it down to heat and expansion, i now ill need a set off drive shaft bolts wen i come to getting mine off next so thanx for that
driveshaft bolts should be bought new really, as they are stretch bolts. M8 spline fitting for the bolt heads. best to clean them out of any gunk before attempting to remove them, as its a bit of a pain if you round the bolt.
for exhaust studs, i used to have a problem with my mk1 golf gti, exhaust studs would constantly come loose, despite being put on with a double nut method to ensure they were in tight. i found on ebay some studs with an allen key fitting, so that you can easily fit and remove them as neccessary.
Oh yeah i have seen them, the ones i found were stainless.
Thanks for the size for the d/s.
If these bolts are M8 spline, whats the correct socket? In halfords the sockets all come under t27 etc.
iirc my local Halfords didn't do the right bits :-(
I got a 'Laser' spline bit kit from GSF.
Might get them from ebay.
Can you remember how many spline it was?
Is this by any chance the kit you bought?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-0592-Spline-Bit-Set-3-8-6pc-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-/360191726449?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item53dd199371#ht_1345wt_907
thats what ive got too, bought so many sets of them because im forever losing the m8 piece.
save your wonga and get one of these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Franklin-Long-M8-Spline-12-Point-Socket-Bit-T5408-/280619379704?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item415637ebf8
Aye, that's the set. Though as Saf suggests for the driveshaft bolts it's useful to have a long M8 spline bit/tool. Otherwise with the Laser kit the socket which holds the bit has a tendency to catch on the CV boot and make undoing them a bit of a pain.
Cheers guys for your help, will get one now!