After about 30 seconds it wants to cut out, even after a long drive.
I have noticed this since i did the boost return mod. I have been thinking what could cause problems.
I have a new lambda sensor as the car has done 100k and thats due to go on which could be one reason but i was wondering if it has anything to do with spraying PTFE grease into the charger and it has gone all over the MAF sensor. Could this be causing it to run ruff?
There is no MAF on a g40 so it ain't going to be that. Since you mention it started when de-wedging the throttle body, i'd start by making sure the holes in the throttle plate are properly sealed
No it was after the boost mod.
I ment the co pot in the boost pipe, sorry.
Well the co pot can't get gummed up as it's just an adjustable resistor but the inlet temp sensor that is in the same unit could be, give it a spray with some degreaser.
Will do, Cheers.
How do you check the current on the co2 pot?
Copy/pasted this from Hayesey's diagnostic guide in the engine FAQ:
" For the CO pot, around 600-650ohms (measure across pins 1 and 3 if I remember correctly) is a good base setting, the car shouldn't be running bad like that. But you need to put it on a gas analyser to set properly at idle. "
So i presume this means taking the circuit board cover off then, cool ill have a check
Shouldn't have to take the cover off...? I think it means to unplug the loom and measure the resistance across pins 1&3 on the CO pot, turning the adjustment screw until it's roughly 600-650ohms..
^^^ yup. Thought it was 550ohms tho?
Yeah, I don't know myself. There's a discussion on it in the G40 Engine Diagnostic topic in the engine FAQ too.
There isn't "a" setting for the co pot, why woud they bother making it adjustable if it always gets set to the same value? Set it to 550, 600, 650, what ever you want, the only real way to set it is to get it on a gas analyzer.
as said above, i put mine on gas analyzer for first time in owning G40's for many years and the difference was massive, any garage should have the capabilities to do this, and it is just a 10 minute job, but just make sure they know what they are doing in regards to adjustment and readings.
Right, now that i have changed the lambda it seems a little better. I cleaned the co pot with some gunk sprayed on it. There wasnt much oil on it in the first place.
It still struggles though. I will try upload a vid.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/th_061.jpg) (http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/?action=view¤t=061.mp4)
This is the link if anyone could help?
my car was doing this along with other things... turned out to be a fooked injector :S
Changed my pot from 500 to 600 n runs way better now. Cheers boys
Maybe its the co pot.
I dont beleive its an injector as they were serviced before fitting them and i unplugged one at a time while engine running and each one had an effect on the engine causing it to completely die.
does it do it all the time or just when you start it or stopping on a trafic light or something! just check the accurator on the fuel line it sounds like it doesn't hold pressure under small load! could be small vacuum leak at some point on the hose!
Mine idled rough and would cut out every now and then unless i blipped the throttle, turned out to be a vacuum leak. Are you sure when you were blocking the pipes off etc they are all fully sealed. Might be worth a look.
Yeah thats a good point.
When i did the boost mod i left the fuel breather that goes into the charcoal canister as that needs to breathe, the throttle body one i blanked off with a bolt and some sealant, and the one that goes to the inlet manifold was planked the same. Will check them though as it has only happened since i did the mod.
Checked the pipes today and they all seem fine. I re-did one as it was a little loose.
Did you go all the way back to the inlet? there are tubes going even under the last plastic hose before the throttle, mine had a little hole there!
Yeah i went as far as possible. At thw weekend i will take it all off and then check it all that way, i got new gaskets and that for t/b, manifold etc.
Could the isv affect this?
Right, i beleive i have sorted this out.
I removed the whole inlet side of parts and started again as if i was doing the boost return mod.
I took off the ISV and gave it a good clean, sprayed a load of gunk in there and it came out all black. Once that was done i checked the smaller pipeline that was blanked off and that was fine and tight, then did a pressure check on the isv pipes and the pressure held. I assembled it all back together.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/038-2.jpg)
My friend who was with me suggested routing the breather pipe elswhere. So we spent about half hour of putting it in different places till we found a good place. We routed it near the bulkhead making sure it was secure and away from all moving parts and it sat in the corner of the engine bay, just above subframe rear fitting point. You can see the start in the 1st pic.
Fitted a new inlet gasket and fitted the manifold. Making sure it was all connected and tight.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/041-2.jpg)
Cleaned the throttle body, fitted new gasket and did same for the t-piece throttle adapter. Checked the tb blank on the front side (facing the head) and it was secure and tight.
(http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq157/jezza-3/040-2.jpg)
All had been cleaned and checked properly. Started car and it was ok, took a few seconds to clear the gunk and a cleaner we use at work called superclean. Best stuff in the world for cleaning parts.
Then it died.... I was annoyed to start but took it for a drive and it was fine. Got back and let it idle for 2-3 mins and it was spot on. Drove back from a friends later this evening and when i got back noticed a smell that was strange, burning oil. Checked under the bonnet and the breather had kicked out oil which untill this point had never done. So i think what my problem was, was that the breather went vertically up from the pod for a good 6-7 inches and that prevented the crankcase from breathing properly as the oil could not escape. But the new route seems to be allowing the engine to breathe.
Does this make sense?