labelling up all the wiring before i try to install it so i dont have to keep running back in the house to check the wiring diagram!
The diagram is as follows........
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/wiringdiagram.jpg)
Now its the wiring from the relay that gets me. The battery +ve is easy, the switched live im gonna run to a switch on the dash (yes?), one runs to the boost switch which ive worked out but where does the wire to the pump go? Looking at the next pic in the installation instructions........
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/wiringdiagram2.jpg)
it doesnt mention a connection to the relay so where does the wire connect to?
Also, ive got this as well...........
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/IMG_0866.jpg)
I believe its a pressure switch although im not sure as it doesnt show up on the instructions. Where does it go?
switched live will be a switch from the ignition - so it only runs with the car on!
as for the boost switch, its essentially a break in the live triggered at a specified level (er 0.6bar) - so that you only get mist at 0.6 bar.
it will go to the positive connection on the pump.
you'd be much better off wiring the "switched" live to an ignition source (such as the black wire to the fuel & ecu relays). For water/methanol injection to have a positive effect you need to get the map done to suit (more ignition advance at high loads with injection happening), this means you run a very high risk of det if you forget to switch the water injection on so it's my belief that it's far better to have the switching on done automatically, I think the same thing about cooling fans too, fine to put an override switch but make sure the original temp switch still works too or you'll forget and overheat the engine.
That last picture is the solenoid to switch the water/methanol flow on and off, which kit do you have as it looks the similar to mine! I can help you if it is.
so the pump doesnt start/stop the flow?
I'm not 100% sure which kit it is but i have the following parts :
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/IMG_0865-1.jpg)
filter
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/IMG_0867-1.jpg)
relay with wiring
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/IMG_0868-1.jpg)
boost switch?
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/IMG_0866-1.jpg)
This bit which we thought was the clog detector but still unsure.
and the pump.
First picture is an inline filter, 2nd is the fuse, 3rd is the pressure switch, 4th is the solenoid vavle which controls the flow of fulid to your atomiser/sprayer.
Your motor/pump will have a pressure switch on it which detects a drop in pressure when the soleniod opens(activated by the pressure switch), soon as pressure drops the motor kicks in to maintain positive pressure on the back of the soleniod valve and forward to the atomiser.
Well i've wired it in like this currently.......
(http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae140/jonjong40/cmstage1.jpg)
Gotta check the health of the pump as following the instructions, its not yet firing :(
Get a multimeter on it. You could also short the boost switch to test fire it. Where have you grabbed the switched live from? Maybe too much current and blown a fuse?
yeah I really don't like they way it's just drawing all it's current through the ignition circuit like that. I would wire it up with a relay supplying power direct from the battery (and in fact that is how the aquamist kits work).
Does seem abit extreme! Got plenty of 12v electrical wire so will re-wire it according to the relayed diagram.