Can somebody tell me how big is pressure in oil pipe betwine motor head and charger?
I have a problem with bearings cos of oil presure.
when the oil in the engine achieve a working temperature, rings on the axle in kompressor fall from their position and oil runn into the machine trough pipes and intercooler. Than y. all know what happen next.
My question is: is there any possibility that the oil pressure can be regulated manually to reduce pressure on axle and bearings to prevent folling off fm the axle.
do you mean the scroll (verdranger) seals? if Yes, it may be that where they fit is worn (it happens) i would try to bond the seals in with a loctite solution.
well the oil pressure in the pipes will match the engine oil pressure, do you have a pressure gauge connected? you can fit a stand alone oil system for the charger which will run at a much lower pressure than the engine oil is at, plus you don't get the huge fluctuations in pressure which is normally what pops charger oil seals. The temperature stays lower too. Basically you get a small tank (I use a motorbike oil tank), a suitable pump - most people (myself included) use a low pressure fuel pump (e.g. the Facet ones people use for twin carb conversions etc...) and then the necessary pipelines between them. Wire the pump up so it comes on with the ignition, I put it on it's own relay getting power directly from the battery.
What I will say is that the Facet fuel pump isn't really designed to pump oil, it's meant to pump much thinner petrol. So really you are overworking it, but the only alternative is a proper fuel pump which cost £200+. Just make sure you use a thin oil, thin fully synthetic engine oil or I use machine oil for lubricating compressors in mine.
However, you shouldn't be popping charger seals all the time unless something is wrong, either engine oil pressure going too high (although this normally causes the oil light and buzzer on your dash board to go off) or using the wrong or poor quality oil seals in the charger. Or the seating area in the charger casing for the oil seals is damaged meaning they aren't fitting in properly.
I don't hv presure gauge conected. As this is complitely new engine (old engine with all new parts in it) with new oil pump it push in lader full presure.
Can y. take a pic an show me how y. done it (this oil tank and stand alone system)?
But presure in kompressor can also be reduced if I put in pipe some mechanical reduction ? Correct ?
nd oil temperature can be pulled down with oil radioator - small one but quite enough for cooling.
can y. tell me what is diameter of pipes which are going fm engine to compressor nd do pipe which is going out fm compressor back to the engine are made of two parts (rubber + metal part of the continuation that goes to engine block )
I'm asking y. that cos I don't hv original pipes so may be the problem are wrong pipes diameter nd cos of that oil presure is to high and bearing on axel are constantly fall out
P.S. SORRY FOR MY BED ENGLISH
I don't know the diameters of the pipe bores, but the pipe from the head to charger should be smaller than the pipe from the charger to the sump. This prevents back pressure at the oil seals.
Also check you have the correct oil filter for a G40, the correct oil filter has a pressure regulator in it.
Y. mean on oil filter which is maunted on engine block?
I thought the presure valve in an oil filter is to just stop oil entering the filter itself when engine oil pressure is very high (i.e. on cold start up). To stop the filter from breaking? It shouldn't have any effect on actual engine oil pressure which is limited by a valve inside the oil pump pickup.
I don't have any pictures of my stand alone system, but all it is, is one of these:
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1696
Any old motorbike oil tank from a scrap yard, a supply pipe from the pump to the tank (mine is about 15mm inside diameter), a supply pipe from the pump to the charger oil inlet (not sure on size, the same as the normal supply pipe is, only a few mm), a return pipe from the charger oil outlet back into the tank (probably about 4mm inside diameter just slightly thicker than the supply pipe). Then a 12v relay and a few bits of wire to power it. The only slightly hard part is getting the right banjo fittings to suit the charger oil inlet and outlet.
I was having this very discussion with myself only the other day(I do that a lot as it quicker than asking sometimes) and my line of though was as follows:
Stand Alone oil supply:-
Advantages;
-it uses a thinner oil for better lubrication properties
-runs at lower pressure
-lower oil temperature can be maintained increaseing seal life
Disadvantages;
-seperate power supply required(which runs the risk of failure without letting you know, leading to potential charger seizure.
-space required under bonnet for install, not a lot, but sometimes hard to find.
-depending on wear you source your parts it can be expensive(though justified)
Small oil cooler on oil feed line:-
Advantages;
-lower oil temperatur into charger
-reasonably cheap(if using a small motorcycle oil cooler, ie a 'Pit Bike' type cooler(check ebay)
Disadvangaes;
-Oil still at same pressure(maybe higher once cooled)
Then this came to me :nerd:
how about fitting a standard fuel pressure regulator into the line, this should restrict pressure to 2.5/3Bar(45PSI). It won't cool the oil, but at least it should stop any pressure surges, i guess you could combine it with a small cooler if you think its really necessary.
Comments welcomes please??
Was in contact with friend fm German forum who told me temperature in compressor should be no more than 90°C (as water). If temperature is higher than bearings will saffer more nd they can fall fm axle cos of heat and cos of dissemination of materials (hope I wrote correctly).
Also (if somebody don't know) on 120°C oil moleculs will be destroied nd oil is no more in function of lubricant
To avoid this problem oil cooler can be mounted, not big but it must be plcaed on place with high circulation of cold air.
I hd in midn to put fuel presure regulator but than it is better to put just a simple regulation with gauge for oil presure. Also small gauge for temperature can be mounted on pipe before compressor nd after oil cooler.
Hope today will receive this reduction with oil presure gauge so will take a pic nd also will tell y. if it's work properly.
So, just to refresh this topic....
Yesterday I mount oil presure gauge, turned the car nd oil presure was more than 4 Bar wich is definitly to high. Was in contact with local VW diller who told me this:
When y. start y. engine presure in compressor (in pipe) should be 1.3 Bar, as RPM rise presure should rise also for 0.6 Bar/1000 rpm. So max should be 4 Bar BUT they also sugest to put FPR (fuel presure regulator) nd pipe on exit fm compressor to engine must be as much as possible wider. Mine is 10 mm wide with exits on compressor nd on engine block 6 mm.
[quote pid=3113 author=G-spot date=1218146573]I was having this very discussion with myself only the other day(I do that a lot as it quicker than asking sometimes) and my line of though was as follows:
Stand Alone oil supply:-
Advantages;
-it uses a thinner oil for better lubrication properties
-runs at lower pressure
-lower oil temperature can be maintained increaseing seal life
Disadvantages;
-seperate power supply required(which runs the risk of failure without letting you know, leading to potential charger seizure.
-space required under bonnet for install, not a lot, but sometimes hard to find.
-depending on wear you source your parts it can be expensive(though justified)
Small oil cooler on oil feed line:-
Advantages;
-lower oil temperatur into charger
-reasonably cheap(if using a small motorcycle oil cooler, ie a 'Pit Bike' type cooler(check ebay)
Disadvangaes;
-Oil still at same pressure(maybe higher once cooled)
Then this came to me :nerd:
how about fitting a standard fuel pressure regulator into the line, this should restrict pressure to 2.5/3Bar(45PSI). It won't cool the oil, but at least it should stop any pressure surges, i guess you could combine it with a small cooler if you think its really necessary.
Comments welcomes please??[/quote]
You'd need some sort of return line to the sump...but an oil pressure regulator could be an option.