Finally my engines in and all plugged in, turns over fine but getting no spark and no fuelling.
Checked the relays were the right way round n thats fine, all the plugs are in. The only bit of bdged wiring is at the inline fuel pump where i didnt have a plug so i wired the terminals in with connectors but the inline fuel pump isnt the one which primes anyways so dont think its that.. Checked all the earths and there all connected up.
anyone got any ideas?
Mine didn't start one time after sitting for a bit. Turns out the hall sender had died.
I am in sheffield so if anyones mega clued up could do with ya!
Faulty ECU?
Is the yellow fuse the single one on its own?
yeah the only blade fuse on the car, on the top of the fuse box with all the bullet fuses in. The 12v supply to the injectors and fuel pumps goes through that, you should still get a spark though even if that had blown but it's easy to check!
Got a brand new dizzy so surely can't be the hall sender hmmm
position of the dizzy? mechanical timing? shit ground?
Two connectors by the coil pack? What are these? I have one into the coil pack and the others are just the thermo switch and the fan plug. Yellow fuse isn't blown tho
theres a 3 pin plug that goes into the coil and a three pin plug/socket that connect together next to the coil, usually on a metal bracket bolted on with the coil.
Got them the right way round as the wire colours match, if the yellow fuse hasn't blown does that mean that I hav the online fuel pump connectors on te right way?
Someones said this aswell to try
if you're not getting sparks or the fuel pumps priming, Id check the wiring to make sure the ecu is working. can you hear the relays click when the ignition is turned on? if not make sure you have a live ignition feed from the plug by the coil. the black wire should be at +12v when the ignition is on. also when the ignition is switched on and the ecu is working, the wires to the injectors should be at about +10v (from memory), as its a negative pulse that fires the injectors.
if you can get a spark, then the ecu should be working. if you cant borrow a spare ecu I've heard of people using one from a GT to see if the ignition will work.
also on a GT the fuel pumps will still prime even if a distributor isnt connected
had same problem my self check you have got the white plug on the throttle body is the correct way round!
Has anyone got a pic of where the vacuum hoses go go i just seem to be putting em where ever, i dont have a charcoal canister tho, also where does the spare two hoses go that are on the rocker to tb hose (alien looking one)
Relays arnt clicking either
Wired a live to the five pin and now they clik and the fuel pump primes, the coil gets power but isn't sparking hmm
Worth 20 quid pal, really starting to annoy me. It was the plugs the wrong way round at the coil which stopped it sparking. Now it's sparking and fuelin into the cylinder but still not starting , it drains a full battery quick trying which is also annoying all the vacuum pipes are connected or blocked so I dunno wots up really? Anyone.... I need this for ultimate dubs :(
rae - shall we pop over sometime and help a brother out?
is fuel getting to the fuel rail?? have you tried priming the engine with the fuel hose off to see if you have and blockages? how much fuel do you have in the tank?
After basically having a paddy leaving for work my mate who works at the toyota garage gave me a ring and i sacked off work for the evening from about 530 till 730 cleaning sparkplugs fannying with the dizzy timing she fired up, after a while ecu went into lymp mode not allowing her to rev at all, coolant wasnt coming out of the bleed nozzle even when open so seemed theres a blockage somewhere along the lines, seems to run alright without the temp sender in but getting a new one tmz, also seems that my 1lt rads blocked somewhere (which probably caused my gt engine oil to near enough boil and blow out of every orifice) wired the single speed fan into the headlights to cool her down but was still running hot. Tmz getting a gt rad n twin speed fan (after buying one of a guy on here n waiting more than a week). Also with the new temp sender should see her running better. She also seems to be backfiring but i reckon this is because the dizzy timing is massively advanced or thats wot my mech dude says it could be. MOT time and a good machine polish should see her ready for UD. Drove her down the road to turn her round and i much prefer her over a highly tuned gt :). Well worth the 8 month turn around. And tom fuels getting in fine just the mech timing was so far out it was just soaking the spark plugs.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q236/etches69/730622b3.jpg)
Cheers boys anyways couldnt have done without CLUB G40 lads
Niceone. Well worth the wait. What day u goin to ud?
saturday night, getting hammered n staying in close by hotel :)
Hope it goes well, I'm giving this one a miss
It's still running massively dog, changed theblue temp sender hasn't made a difference, miss firing and back firing. Reckon it's a tooth out on the cambelt on top of bad dizzy timing. It's running really advanced to get the revs up on idle, wots worrying me is the fact all the boost pipes are on good n proper and it's not boosting up great e.g the long rubber boost pipe on the right doesn't seem to get that hard when revving. Hmmmm
they dont get hard just revving, need to be under load
Thts a relief :)
Was playing with the car again today and last night (everyday and night untill UD basicallY) Played with the dizzy timing untill it ran ok, checked the cambelt timing and seemed spot on. Drove it a distance seems to run pretty fast and i dont think its a charger related problem. Although when drivin it tended to bog down badly, oils leaking from her somewhere and got mayo on the underside of the oil cap. Coolant system seems to be better now with a bit of pressure in the system and works in the rad fine. Its still overfuelling massively with black stuff flying out the exhaust and it missfiring and backfiring still. Upwards battle tbh.
Quote from: etches69 on March 10, 2010, 06:06:49 PM
...got mayo on the underside of the oil cap. Coolant system seems to be better now with a bit of pressure in the system...
This is sounding like head gasket to me (or worse, I had a similar thing on a mk1 golf where it turned out the block was cracked), this would explain water getting into the oil and possibly combustion pressurising the coolant. Oil could be getting into the cylinders too, hence fuelling problems and spewing out black shite.
it sounds like the blue temp sensor again, check wiring loom again, i bought a new temp sensor and mine ran exactly how your describing yours running now, it struggled firing up, misfired and coughed black soot out of exhaust, i put my old sensor back in and it ran fine, the ones you buy from gsf aren'e guarenteed to work, they may be broke when bought.(heard of this problem before), if your proper stuck phone ace tune in sheffield, he's pretty clued up on old school cars. he might get it running a little better than it is at the moment and get you to ud. don't trust his fault code reader tho, its totally inaccurate. 01709 710 888, he charges around £35
Thing is I have changes the blue temp sender already, not really made a differnce , going to take the lamda out b clean got a timing light , fingers crossed should be fine for ud
Hope so matey, nothing worse than the g not runni
Saturday help, you lads still up for it. Got the timing done properly by a mechanic but still don't know wots up with it. Bogging down massively under load and on idle, nt going to ud now
can't this sat mate - i'm busy and I know rae is working on his mum's clio!!! could do witha bit more notice.
maybe could do a night in the week.
I live in penistone, be easier if you get to there and rae could come from wakie
Watever dude its up to you, free tuesday night if thats any good?
So has anyone got any ideas? Blocking the vac pipes wouldn't have anything to do with it as I don't have a charcoal canister, Also does anything connect to either the ecu hose nipple or wither of the two run off pipes which make the boost return bit as on the overrun air seems to run out of them.
Today I took off the lamda n properly cleaned it up also got another blue temp sender to try n put that one in, also blocked up the spare pipe coming off the alien looking thing. Still massively bogs down making it undriveable. Free tuesday from 2, free thursday from 2-7 and free all saturday
Bump, anyone got any pics of where that bit of boost pipe goes ?
PM me your mobile and ill see if i can help.
Anyone free at the weekend tom?
me and sam will be around in penistone on sat am if youwanted to come and see us, we can have abutchers,
Would love to pete, but cant even drive it anywhere
Quote from: tdh-syorks on March 16, 2010, 04:16:55 PM
PM me your mobile and ill see if i can help.
Your a legend pal, seems to work orite now!
Glad to hear that mate, u need to take it on a steady run now to see if there's any more problems
:)
Just been on a run, reckon that throttle switch is wots making it hesitant on the throttle, it's massively like turbo lagg
Unfortunately broke down yesterday night n wouldnt start. wheeled it to my flat n left it over night, came back today n started again first time. It wont start after a run when its hot, also the throttle is massivly hesitant, it doesnt click the trottle switch when moved either. Still running rich too which i still reckon is the blue temp.needing a radiator n fan now
Yeah the blue temp sensor is probably why its not starting when hot. I also noticed your throttle body wasn't working rite. Id say strip the throttle body down and give it a good clean
Overheated today, sooo need the rad n fan!
Did u fix the oil pressure switch? See if dan knight has a spare rad and fan.
Nah i didnt realise i needed to
That's if it was that. Did u find where all the oil leaked from? Was it the breather which I said to push firmly in or maybe the temp switch. Can't see the head gone
Yeah it was the breather, most shit job ever was covered in oil under the car in the rain for an hour, Got so pissed off with it ended up using some hose to bridge from the metal pipe to the plastic bit. Works a treat now tho pal! Never seen so much smoke out of the coolant bottle tho thought it was on fire initially
Rite, need to take the throttle body off now and strip it down to clean it
Took the tb off n cleaned it inside n out, also put some g40 calipers on n some newish pads. Cleaned the throttle position switches to see it that would cure the massive lack of power up untill about 4k. Bled the brakes each one for about 20 mins doing 4 pumps then let out the air. Now the breaks are lethal but that can be fixed, the "kangarooing" of the throttle is dangerous in the wet weather had to near enough drive full throttle for about a mile, well surprised i got home. Saying that also changed the blue temp sender to a VAG brand new one £16 on trade n that actually works unlike the 4 other different ones i have (cheers tom ). Anyways live to fight another day eh
Massively shit day for me, gearlinkage decided to pop out when driving, which was caused by the loss of one of the rear engine mount bolts and then to top it off the brake lines rubbed themselves untill holes appeard on the 14 wheels i have which means no breaks at the moment! ALso its still running shite so getting a 51mm tb next week.
recieved the 51mm throttle body which is nice, although puttin it together was the biggest bake ever, need it sortin really, now its runnin it gets flatspots and seems to kangaroo a little when on power. my dad mot'd and its emmissions were terribly rich! replaced the blue temp so could it be the lamda as its a gt one?
bump
have you set up the TB microswitches correctly, and that it open and closes the butterfly smoothly and doesn't catch or stick.
You checked for a vacuum leak?
Disconnect your lambda sensor connector and see if it drives better. Also make sure the lambda is tight in the exhaust boss we had one that kept vibrating itself loose and cause overfuelling during a race at Snet, had to loctite it in.
You tried another chip in your ecu?
Thats the problem the tb not terrible smooth, to check to see if its that going to put the standard one together with the different switches, its not really a flat spot its just running massively down on power like same as a cammed n chipped gt which is weird.
Its running fairly hot to within 5 mins its up to around 80 degrees, annoying thing is after getting a twin speed fan n a twin switch thermo plug for the radiator the fan still doesnt kick in at all. Just going to have to wire up a two stage switch on the dash for the fan i reckon.
dunno wot to do about the down on power issue, its not burning oil or coolant but ill have to see when i have changed the throttle body back. Although a problem with the throttle body is that the final nut on the end cant go finger tight otherwise it seizes the whole mechanism so its not free enough to let the springs shut it off throttle :S
Really worried now thinking it could be serious, n big bang is two weeks away :(
Your cam timing isn't a tooth out and retarded is it? I know it was set up a page or two ago but you checked it again?
If it aint the Throttle body, Have you another chip to test per chance?
thing is when i turn inside fans on hot and full even when the engine is at temp they dont blow hot, when i take out the blue temp sender nothing happens, when i unplug the lamda nothing happens so i will prob replace the thermo housin and the lamda sensor and the heater matrix. dunno why the fan doesnt kick in tho :(
Cold heaters could just be trapped air. There's a bleed valve where the pipes connect, in the scuttle. The system should be filled with this open and the heaters set to hot.
Is the fan switch working? Check it in hot water. Does the fan work, have you tried it connected straight to the battery? Does the rad get warm at all? Perhaps the thermostat is stuck closed, hence fast warm up and no fan as the coolant in the rad stays cold and the switch stays off.
Have you checked the blue temp sender, or replaced it?