Club G40 Forum

Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: xrrich on February 28, 2010, 07:40:06 pm

Title: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on February 28, 2010, 07:40:06 pm
Brief guide to chaging this, ive got a nice leak that is ruined dads driveway.

Drain oil
Take off Oil filter
Take off sump
Replace gasket
Put sump back in place with silicon sealent aswell.

Add new oil filter
leave to set before adding new oil?

What oil does everyone use?

Thanks
Rich
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on February 28, 2010, 07:56:37 pm
10w/40 semi-synthetic.  Mine uses Quantum or Fuchs oils generally.
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: G-spot on March 01, 2010, 08:19:34 pm
Brief guide to chaging this, ive got a nice leak that is ruined dads driveway.

Drain oil
Take off Oil filter
Take off sump
Replace gasket
Put sump back in place with silicon sealent aswell.

Add new oil filter
leave to set before adding new oil?

What oil does everyone use?

Thanks
Rich

Think you missed out remove exhaust and remove drive shaft/inner CV joint..........
 :-\ :-\
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 01, 2010, 11:37:51 pm
you have to remove exhaust and remove drive shaft/inner CV joint
This sucks
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on March 02, 2010, 09:21:58 am
are you posting this as a guide or asking for a guide?
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 02, 2010, 02:42:30 pm
Askingg for a guidee  ;D
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on March 02, 2010, 05:21:23 pm
haynes manual is your best bet.  Basic guide is:

- remove exhaust down pipe: separate from manifold, 4 studs, disconnect from rest of exhaust (usually an exhaust clamp).  Sling it out of the way.

- disconnect offside driveshaft from gearbox

- start undoing all the 10mm bolts around the sump, there's something like 15-20 of them in total.  Two are covered up by the gearbox, you can access them by removing the bottom cover from the end of the gearbox (a single 11mm bolt) and then turning the engine over by hand until you see two cut-outs in the flywheel appear, these will line up with the two bolts so you can fit a 1/4" drive 10mm socket on an extension bar in.

- once all bolts are out (double check you've got them all) the sump should come free with a couple of taps by hand. 

- remove all traces of old gasket from both the sump face and the block face. 

- in theory it's then just a case of putting the new gasket on and offering the sump back up and bolting it on.  However, I always find they seal better if you put some silicon sealer between the gasket and the sump.  I generally apply it to the sump, leave it 1/2 an hour so it just starts to go off, then put the gasket on and bolt everything back together.  Then you want to leave it a good while for the sealer to cure before putting oil in and using the car, overnight is best if possible.
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: jez1272gt on March 02, 2010, 05:23:24 pm
Hope you dont have a subframe conversion - you'll need to drop the frame or lift the engine on top of this!
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 02, 2010, 05:50:01 pm
hayesey thankyouvery much :), is the drive shaft easy to get out.

Thanks
 ;D
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 02, 2010, 06:08:23 pm
Cheers Rae
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on March 02, 2010, 09:24:07 pm
HAYSEY damn you. i basically copied/pasted the entire guide from the haynes as you typed that.

tw*t!  :P

gutted! ;)

you could have still posted it though, two heads are better than one eh?  There's usually something I've forgotten.
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on March 03, 2010, 10:17:34 am
I left out the "refitting is the reverse of removal" crap so yeah it's not "haynes" speak
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: Puncharado on March 03, 2010, 05:58:50 pm
I left out the "refitting is the reverse of removal" crap so yeah it's not "haynes" speak

Or "remove all the bolts and withdraw component", leaving out that half the bolts are almost inaccessable and will cause you to hurt a hand or finger, and where withdraw component means twist it and jiggle it all ways until you find the one and only orientation where it will actually come out!

We all take the piss out of the inaccuracies of the Haynes manuals, but bottom line is all us home mechanics would be lost without them. I have found that the later "service manual" ones are less comprehensive than the earlier "workshop manual" type. As an example a mates old Sierra V6 manual has a gearbox rebuild guide and electrical testing of all components, whereas my later one says gearbox should be done by a pro and just tells how to remove and refit electrical parts but not test them.
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: hayesey on March 03, 2010, 07:40:25 pm
yeah the mk2 manual has a bit about gearbox disassembly in it but the mk3 one doesn't.  There is a separate Haynes Gearbox manual which has a detailed section on the 084 gearbox in it, it's pretty handy as it is pretty similar to the 5 speed 085, just the selector forks are a bit different and of course the end cover with the 5th gear behind it!
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 08, 2010, 05:02:58 pm
Got the gasket today, but was a bit worrrying as they wasnt sure it was for my car. are they the same on all the mk3s or do 1L, 1.3L, GT and G40 have different ones?
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: PeteG40 on March 08, 2010, 05:36:50 pm
yeah, should be the same
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: xrrich on March 08, 2010, 07:07:46 pm
will any old silicon sealer dothe jobb?
Any recomendations
Title: Re: Sump Gasket
Post by: G-spot on March 08, 2010, 07:49:17 pm
fit it dry or if you feel the need to use a compond of any discription then I would use hylomar