hi ive just got my polo on the road after swapin the engine out a crashed g40. im alittle disapointed with it as my mate cleo 1.8 16v went past me...... something just doesnt feel right and was just wondering if anyone had any ideas. ive done a few mods to it
stage 4 charger
65mm pulley
induction kit
reprofiled cam
250cc injectors
chip to run these mods
gt inlet
de-wedged throttle body
boost return mod
lightened flywheel
stainless manifold cup car exhaust
i havent got a lambda in it yet if that makes abig difference...
any ideas
So its running OK (no misfires etc), just down on torque and power yeah?
Ignition timing? cam timing?
Is your chip defo for the larger injectors? Could be running a tad too rich. Yoof used to do AFR gauges, he might still have some knocking around so you could use to get an idea on AFR perhaps?
Check all your settings, blue temp sensor, CO pot, boost leaks? Have you got a boost gauge in the car?
Do you know what profile the cam is? Perhaps swap to a stock G40 cam since its pretty good anyway.
Is your Boost return valve fully closing shut (air tight) on full throttle and also make sure that your throttle body butterfly is clicking its full throttle microswitch when fully wide open.
We used to run without the lambda in the cup car, it has an effect in closed loop although in your case I would want to get the lambda in asap so you've full ecu control.
yea it does make a big difference not having a lambda
it doesnt misfire and the chip is set for the bigger injectors. how do i check the sensors and what is the CO pot? i dont no the profile of the cam and we do think we need to advance the timing slightly.
do you have any idea how to dial in a cam?
You need to be setting the ignition timing to stock (6deg) and cam timing to '0' @ TDC.
AT TDC make sure the no1 cyl cam lobes are pointing upwards, people have put cams in upside down before.
Cam timing is set to the '0' mark on the crank. All your dots on the pulleys should line up. You should need to dial in a cam to anything other than to the '0' and the dot on the cam pulley. Verniers can be used to advance/retard it slightly but you need a wild cam to get the best from it and really a RR to set it up. For a normal engine spec like yours, you don't need one.
Using a timing gun, the ignition timing can be set to the Z mark on the crank pulley. Then dial in 6deg advance on the gun and recheck against the '0' mark on the crank pulley.
Use the search function in this forum to get better detailed info on setting up timing etc.
CO pot is on the plastic boot pipe, use a multimeter to set to 550ohms.
Blue water temp sensor is on front of head to the RHS, worth replacing. The black one is for your dash gauge btw.
The ECU map controls the ignition timing within the map which is why you only need to set its base setting up.
Have you discounted a boost leak yet? Like the classic ISV-plastic boost pipe hose popped off?
i did find and sort a leak! im pretty sure thats what we did with the cam but will check with my mate to make sure as he put it in. do you think a larger exhaust bore is needed or the 2" system im runing to be ok. my exhaust feel off the other night and a lexus ran over it bending it up abit so might need a new one anyway....
If you need a new one, I'd go for 2 1/4" bore exhaust.
With the cam timing, you have to make sure its defo at tdc on no.1 cylinder, as the crank pulley turns twice, so you can align the '0' 180deg out if you get what i mean.
Make sure you've no leak from your intercooler or end caps.
And be sure you check your full throttle throttle body valve microswitch is activating, if its not then your not switching into WOT settings in your map. Also BRV is closing fully shut as you'll be bleeding off boost when on WOT.
Another one, is make sure you've 14.4v coming from your alternator. Anything lower than 13.7v i think and your ECU won't pick off correct parameters from your sensors, taking only default readings, much like get you home mode, without the fuel comsumption and misfiring. I wasted £100 of RR time due to an alternator not outputing the correct voltage, always read 164bhp on every run no matter what we did.
i;ve never seen 14+v off an alternator, mostly over 13 is ok in my opinion. lower that 12.5 or something gives them the hump
Yep, most automotive stuff should be happy between 10-16V, if not a wider range. Stick a meter on your battery whilst you're cranking on a cold day and you'll understand why!
A fresh healthy alternator on my car seems to manage about 13.8V at idle, if it's dropping to 12V or lower then clearly it's cream-crackered.