hi guys new to site, been on clubpolo a while though, basically i built an ABD GT with hi lift cam, 8k chip, ported, polished and gas flowed, head and inlet manifold, and every other part on the car was replaced, was sad when i sold it as i loved that car, so have decided to build a g40 turbo'd mk3, just wondering how much i'm roughly looking at for the block minus the parts i wont need, then a rough price for the parts i will need and then someone to put it together for me, i will put it in the car etc cheers
hi mate,
really difficult to put a price on that to be honest, especially for someone to put it together for you. If you are looking for a company to build you the engine and supply all parts then it's going to cost quite a lot!
If you are willing to source all the bits yourself and put it together then it'll be a lot cheaper. I would say the best bet would be to buy a g40 (can get reasonable ones for £1500 these days), then sell off the bits you don;'t need (such as the supercharger, standard intercooler etc...) and then buy the turbo bits. The usual route people take is the rothe kit to use a K03 from a passat or audi a4 1.8 20vt engine. Parts are fairly cheap.
ok cool, cheers, only reason i was looking at getting someone else to build it was because i dont have to much knowledge of turbo engines, i found the list of parts i will need on the site
well using th rothe bits it's all just bolting parts together really. you'll need to source a suitable chip or ideally get it custom remapped. For a chip have a look in the traders section on here for the PoloPerformanceParts chips.
you'll also need a forge actuator to get the boost up.
Can you not just shim/adjust the actuator or use a bleed valve? And there are plenty of diesels that run over a bar of boost so an actuator off one of those is a good option. Those forge things are a fortune, just seems like you are paying for the shiny prettyness of it, matches bailey dump valves! :D
the standard actuators only have 5 psi springs in them because they are designed to be used with an ECU controlled N75 valve. They are also pressed together so I'm not sure opening them up to shim or fit a different spring would be easy to do for a person with moderate mechanic skills. Forge actuator isn't cheap and you are paying a premium because it's a fancy billet alu thingy. A bleed valve may well work although not sure how big it'd need to be if you are planning on running 15psi or more and it of course causes a boost leak.
KKK stock actuator and bleed valve can make 15psi, but you get a hell of a boost spike. Been there! A secondary spring might work better.
Ahh I see, ECU controlled boost, now it figures. One off an old land rover or similar should go on well, they run a bar as standard. But I suppose if you have the cash then the forge thing bolts on and does the job.
cheers for the help guys, just looking for a decent shell to use now, but a cheap one at that as dont see the point buying one with lots of stuff done as i would prefer to do it all myself, then i know it exactly whats done and when