Hi,
I currently own a g40 which I have had for the past few months. All was running fine pulling strong through to the redline in any gear.
Since then I have put on the 65mm pulley and chip (non racing) from the maxrpm website. The engine pulls much better and growls a lot more under load. However I have constant deep humming sound on idle (like a tight cambelt) and it is most prominent at 2k+ rpm, but I have read this is normal???
The car has covered about 300miles since then and I have no problems apart from a slipping v belt which was temp fixed with belt dressing.
Anyway just recently the car has been through 4 rotor arms and a dizzy cap and a replacement distributor. This has happened 3 times when flooring it in first. And one dropping it from 5th to 3rd gear.
Im out of ideas. Just to help you with the diagnosis I have replaced parts with the GSF parts (beru rotor arms and dizzy cap). And some cheaper chinese rotors from another motor store.
I replaced the old dizzy which had a slightly loose shaft, the one I replaced it with was rock solid in comparison but it has happened again! :(
What am i doing wrong?!! Appreciate your help.
Cheers
Ash
What plugs are you using out of interest?
What ignition coil have you got too?
Have you got part no's of the rotor and dizzy cap your using?
You could get oem ones from TPS...see if that helps.
Sounds like it does it at very high rpm, if its gear one, or downshift from 5th to 3rd.
Or maybe your chip is dodgy.
TBH tho I have no idea, never heard of this happening before.
What is happening to the parts - burning out?
What plugs are you using?
HT leads all okay?
Higher boost means the ignition system has to work harder, and modern resistor spark plugs don't help either. Incorrect AFR (too rich or too lean) will also increase the work the ignition system has to do.
In my experience (22psi and 9.3:1 CR) some pattern part rotor arms burn the tip or suppression resistor out in a few hundred miles, but a good one will last a few thousand.
Hi, sorry guys I've just checked the forum for replies,
@Peteg40 - the plugs are BOSCH W5DPO
@JoeH - ignition is from a polo 1.3 GT genuine part engine code 3f
part number for rotor arm is - 922VG0070 from GSF
part number for dizzy cap is - 921VG0050
both the parts are from GSF
@Andy - They're not burning out but the rotor arm seems to still be stuck to the shaft only when you remove it you can see that the plastic inside on the rotor arm is broke (the plastic lug which slots into the distributor shaft) another thing I have noticed is that sometimes the rotors arm metal contact that points to each point in the dizzy cap is damaged, normally a side is chipped off or its totally broken!
I drove the car 23 miles without footing it in first and dropping down from a higher gear and all was fine, even though I was taking it to 5000rpm in all gears except from first!!!
Any more queries you have I'm happy to answer and thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it.
Ash
Do the failed arms/caps have any witness marks from contact with each other?
Hi, yes they do actually, the inside of the dizzy cap (plastic) normally be's scraped. the rotor arm metal contact on the front seems to be broken as well on either corner and sometimes its all shattered.
Still having this problem and its really getting annoying!!! >:(
Please help!!!!!!!
Thanks
Sounds obvious, but if there's contact marks, then either the cap is coming loose- two metal clips not holding it in place, or the rotor arm has excessive movement...
Is the distributor cap fitting in the distrubutor groove, deep enough. Take the distributor of, put the cap and rotor and spin it with you hand, check for sonething scratchy..
Btw, are you running w5dp0 spark plugs, or some resistor plugs?
Yes mate running w5dp0 plugs. Could it be old spark plugs as the car does miss slightly, hesitates at cold when driving sometimes.
:s
Is it possible you could put some photo's up of the problem? rotor arm, dizzy cap. condition of spark plugs. But to be fair what Yoof said is all I can think off. The rotar arm needs to firmly push on, dizzy cap needs both clips securely attaching it....
FINALLY SORTED THE PROBLEM GUYS ;D ;D ;D
It was the cheap rotor arms I was using from GSF, bought a genuine BOSCH one from TPS for £14 and tbh when fitting it it seemed such a tighter and snug fit that it wouldn't even move! the ones from GSF went on but pulled off if I applied a little force whereas the BOSCH one was rock solid in comparison. GSF ones also had a little side to side play :/
Anyways took the car for a test drive and no matter how much I gave it i.e. footing in first and dropping from high gear to low, it just seemed to come back to life again!!! ;D no bogging down and no rotor arm failing.
The first rotor arm failed which was a BOSCH one but I guess that had paid its price. (genuine one which came with the engine since the conversion) should also mention I drove at least 5000 miles with that rotor arm on, and a 1000 since pulley and chip upgrade.
never cheaper to do the job twice! :)
Interested in this.
I rang TPS up and they wanted a small fortune relatively for cap(£20) and Arm (£15) £~35
Yet GSF did Beru Cap and Arm made in Germany for £17.00
What make were yours from GSF, because I wouldn't say Beru are poor quality?
How often will you change it now?
Every 5k 10k?