Evening all, well the G is finally back on the road :D (will update build thread soon)
but she seems to have lost alot of ponies
since it was last on the road ive changed exhaust for a complete ppp mani and system, gt inlet and the boost return mod.
ive finally fitted a stackk boost gauge (never had one before) but does 8 psi sound about right for my mods?
r1 jabba ported charger
BRV mod
gt inlet
1341 (accralite pistons)
ppp mani and system
51mm throttle
derestricted airbox
lightly ported head
psd high lift cam
what figure are other people getting? 8 psi doesnt sound like much, and there definitly isnt any leaks going on as most hoses where replaced and i double checked them all
the thing i did notice is i dont get that woosh sound from the boost return valve when throttling off after full throttle, to me that sounds like the return valve isnt closing properly, but it is, as i checked, full throttle closes the valve
is that also normal?
it does fell alot slower, much much slower, considering if anything it should be faster?
not really sure what to do, the charger was rebuilt 5k ago too, so its not that
thanks Taylor
I'm not expert at all but:
- is it running on all cylinders? - all sparking?
- is it getting fresh correct amount of fuel supply?
- Is engine timing correct - with that cam?
Quote from: JoeH on September 28, 2013, 08:34:34 PM
I'm not expert at all but:
- is it running on all cylinders? - all sparking?
- is it getting fresh correct amount of fuel supply?
- Is engine timing correct - with that cam?
yes too all of those, runs sweet as a nut, probably better now it has the gt mani on it
has a psd chip for 1341cc so the fueling will be near enough there, no pinking
the power off boost is lovely, only when i put my foot down, it used to struggle to grip in second in the dry, now its soo much slower :/
does 8 psi sound about right?
Boost sounds low.
Is the cam timed up correctly? Any rags left in boost pipes? Sure there's no boost leaks? Are you getting full throttle and BRV fully closing from the throttle cable?
10 psi is what i run from about 3k upwards and i got a similar spec. 12 psi is what i get around 7200rpm.
Did you blank off all correct pipes from return mod?
Also is your stack gauge mechanical?
Dont have a vernier pulley and mechanical timing is good as i checked it 5 times when changing
cambelt
that could be an easy mistake lol, but defo no rags haha
yeah thats what i checked andy, turned the car off and put my foot flat and the brv completely closed... well it did visually....
im gonna double check all my pipes tommorow then, is the best way to check for boost leaks to have the car run at idle, disconnect the brv and close it to hear for any hissing? this wont damage anything will it?
just to confirm i should be getting that woosh noise when revving the car at a standstill? i.e full throttle for a split second then off? dont want to sound like a chav or anything, just as far as im aware it should, and from it not doing it points to the throttle. (not that ive played with it since having the car off the road
yep mechanical, brand new so should give a good reading?
thanks for clarifying jezza, its definitely boost and something ive touched then lol
i blocked off the pipe the goes into the big pipe to the isv? and obviously a blanking plate with hylomar. think that was all
fuel pressure reg to main vacuum pipe
it was around 8 psi at over 7k so pretty poor in comparison to yours
ill go over things with a fine tooth comb tomorrow then
if i disconnect the brv and close it at idle i can see if it leaks air through?
cheers guys, if you think of anything else lemme know
thanks
Does the throttle body open fully when the accel pedal is flat to the floor? If the TB's a new one to your build it's possible the BRV is sealing, but that you're not getting full throttle.
Ah see what your saying, Didnt think to check that, cheers mate.
Double checked boost and it's 6psi, no wonder it's slow lol
When I put my foot down in third at low rpm (not much engine noise) there is a hissing noise, like boost forcing it's way through a gap, but I could be imaging that
need to check my shit
Is the way I described above ok to check boost? Not gonna run mega lean and damage something
Thanks
With the engine off can you hear it making the wot switch?
Also didn't think to do that, thanks mate,
All i've done la remove and refit the throttle twice, is the same one I used before
I'm beginning to worry it's my charger lol
Any oil in the boost pipes?
Could always take the t-piece off the top of the throttle body and see if its closing.
Ah i just red something, you out a gt inlet on? Was that something you have put on as a newer item? I had a problem where the throttle cable kept slipping out and wan't sitting correctly and it was like the car had no oomph. It tore the rubber bung and i sorted this but sticking about 10 washers under the throttle bracket and put a new bolt in. The gt inlet sits slightly lower so might be worth checking.
James you legend!! Cheers mate. I thought the cable looked a funny angle, and that would explain why the bar at the back doesn't fit and the pipe for the ischemia is quite stretched. I've adjusted it for now but I need a spacer for the bracket. Instead using ten thousand washers :P
r is mental fast now!!!
Thanks people :D
Would this be a likely issue with anyone fitting a GT manifold do you think?
I would say so.
They sit lower but only by say 10mm.
If you need a metal clip for the cable let me know as i may have a spare one.
weird, never had this issue... btu there are two different gt inlet part numbers i think.? or i might've made that up!
This caused me massive problems a few years ago. Had to keep pulling over every 5 mins at one point until the mighty tie wraps came out.
Fuck it!!!!! I'm broken down outside of Marvell zoo supposedly picking my gf up from a wedding
Lost all power, lights went dim, water and fuel gauges stopped reading the it conked out, won't start, so bumped it, same again, everything, turned main beam on and it cut out. Alternator light didn't come on through any of this.
Now I'm stuck between a main road and a hill in the pitch tucking black in a forest.
The joys of owning a G
do you think the batteries judged and not taking any charge?
Batterys a year old
New alternator
On the bright side I did just wax it so atleast Italking clean in the. Dark
hall sender? coil/
Got home, Dad had to come out and jump the battery
The alternator isn't charging the battery but the batteryvlight isn't on, like to say the alternator isn't charging it
I had to charge it of dads car drive as far as I could with no lights, eventually go flat, Dad charge it again, keep doing that until I got home.
Any ideas I'm raping the wiring diagrams on Haynes
Ive just washed it but water didn't really get anywhere near electronics
Is the thin blue wire still attached to the alternator?
Yeah I checked that after consulting wiring diagrams. How can I check continuity through the wire, don't have a multi meter long enough to reach the clocks and the alternator
Use a long piece of wire to make it long enough.
Quote from: Jezza-7 on September 30, 2013, 11:59:08 AM
Use a long piece of wire to make it long enough.
Lol, sorry for retarded questions :P if I run a wire like you say and it works, means I have a brake in the wire, if it doesn't then it could be faulty alternator.
Is the wire pretty straight forward to get at behind the clocks?
thanks guys
Whats the wire actually for? Could I just earth it to see if it solves the problem?
Ok it's not the alternator, plugged a working one in, same problem, checked continuity on the blue wire back to the bulk head, is fine. Can't see where it goes inside the car, it's a fucking mess! I don'. Understand what it's for?
Found the problem, my 5 month old refurbished alternator I bought of here was fudged