Just wondering if the G40002 map works best with a certain cam? or are the tolerances fairly high?
I have a GT inlet, ported psd charger, dewedged TB and 65mm pulley.
I checked and i am running an AHD box at the moment, so swapping it out for an ATV one when i have checked all the gears on the one i bought.
most of my miles are A roads and smaller country roads. looking for a cam that will utilise my mods but wont stress the engine too much mid/fast road sort of thing.
Advice appreciated
If you're looking at the usual asymmetric 254/276 G40 cams from Piper or Schrick then it'll be fine. It's when you go for something hugely lairy or more symmetrical in duration that the chip won't work so well.
Cheers for that Andy, I will send dolla for a chip in the next few days. Probably go for the G40002 map and invest in the piper cam
OK so i bought the G40002 chip and set of new INA tappets along with the piper G40BP270H cam. now i will be fitting it all tomorrow along with the 65mm pulley on the charger.
my question is about running the cam in.
I have had the tappets sat in engine oil for 2 days now so they should be fully lubricated. I read a piece jezza posted that says run the car at 2500rpm for 15 mins. just dont let it idle
don't fancy getting this wrong. cheers
Or just go on a steady drive dude, either keeps the oil pressure up while the cam and tappets bed in.
Piper should have sent you instructions with it?
The requirement to run at 2500rpm depends on how the oil is fed to the camshaft- if it's a splash lubricated cam in a well of oil, then you need decent engine rpm for the crank to flick oil up to the camshaft ala pushrod V8. OHC engines are slightly different and will have lubricated camshaft bearings/journals.
I would:
1- Install cam
2- Tighten all caps down evenly to torque, and angle (M7 helicoil required if they pull!)
3- Turn engine over by hand (remove plugs) and check clearance on camshaft to tappet chest, you should be fine with this Piper
4- Check cam timing
5- Refit rocker cover etc
6- Unplug Hall sender/fuel rail
7- Turn engine over (plugs still out) until oil pressure achieved (if you have no gauge you can hear a difference in sound)
8- Install plugs, and refit hallsender/fuel rail connector
9- Check cam timing
10- Start engine
11- Adjust ignition timing once warm
12- Check any bolts (camshaft sprocket) after a few miles
Job done ;D
excellent. Cheers gents
Roughly how long does I take for the oil pressure to be achieved. Having starting issue. Struggling to start. Tried moving the dizzy about. But that only helps so much and still won't start.
How much out will the ignition timing be from my old cam?
Cheers
oil pressure wont take long about 3-4secs to get gauge reading. If its fresh oil, i used to crank engine over and it take about 15 secs or so to get pressure. Timing not out?
Yeah timing is out. But timed the cam up and now ignition timing is out. But moved the dizzy full lock both ways and it's still not starting
Have you checked firing order? sparks actually working?
Yeah checked that multiple times as I missed that one last time. All the spark plugs are good. Fuel is good. Order is 1-3-4-2.
When I crank it by hand it's a lot harder then with the previous cam. Would have thought the tappets would have eased up by now!
Have you turned it over without the plugs in and the rocker cover off?
Yeah by hand and then took the fuel and hall sender off and turned it over using ignition(rocker cover was back on for this one)
I will pop the original chip in tomorrow to see if that may be playing a part
Clearance to tappet chest was okay?
All looked/turned ok
Cam bearing caps clean and in the correct order?
yeah and tightened to 6nm followed by a 90* turn. covered the followers and tappets in special grease
So I resolved the issue... Popped the original chip back in and she roared into life
Not quite sure how the chip became damaged but you can see a burn mark on the centre if it
Looks like you've popped it in the wrong way round, usually damages part of the memory which is why it won't be running properly. I can do you a cheap replacement, but am away at the moment - drop us an email.
Ah smashing, thanks for that!
Thanks to Andy I now have a fresh PPP chip in. Before i swapped cams and chips over car idle was a tad high 1200rpm but nothing ridiculous.
Since swapping everything over the idle has become rough/high when the car gets warm. When i turn it on, its at about 1100 rpm but once the car gets warm it rises to 1800rpm once i apply the clutch. The idle will sometimes drop if i apply the clutch and 1st gear a touch. but mostly it rises back to 1800.
i spent the day going over the diagnostic guide on here, only thing that confuses me is the co pot reading, when i put the multimeter to points 1 and 3 the cars rev drop right down (like its about to stall) and reads a really small resistance.
when i remove the blue temp sensor at running temp the revs rise, however i realise i didnt set the ignition timing when it was in service mode, will this make much of a difference?
and my cam timing is still half a tooth out.
Thanks
It's essential to set ignition timing in service mode. Do that, and set the CO pot resistance to circa 550ohms as a starting point.
How do i adjust the CO pot resistance?
Measure across pins 1 and 3 after you take the loom clip off, I set mine to 550ohms before it went on a mates exhaust gas analyser. Think he riched it up after changing the blue temp, melted fuel pump relay and lambda
Cheers for that lad, I will set up the timing and resistance and holla back
So I timed it up in service mode. Sounds much better.
When I checked the resistance in the CO pot it was 850, dropped that to 550, although doesn't feel like it's idling quite as smoothly. Should I try increasing to 600/650?
What's your idle speed? Idle switch engaged?
Before I adjusted the CO pot it was 1000rpm. Now it's up to about 1100rpm.
Too high - adjust it down, is the idle switch engaging too?
So it looks like the idle Issue may have been resolved. Which considering I have owned the car for 6 months it's pretty incredible.
Idle switch engages and I dropped the revs (idle screw) to 900rpm and CO pot resistance was 850 and it's back down to 550.....and it's stable. So thank you very much for your patience on that yoof
And thanks for the setup advice and replacement chip Andy. True gent
I can safely say this chip and cam combo with the psd charger and 65mm pulley is quite frankly awesome.
Now to sort out the bodywork
Thats great mate ! You can enjoy it now!
No worries- glad it's sorted :)