Long story short, either opie oils or i have fudged up ordering, i spent nearly a month deciding what box and engine oil to use
i decided on millers 75-90 box oil
and fuchs titan pro s full synthetic ester 10w 40 oil
somehow ive ended up with the same brand and make but 10w 50 engine and 75-80 box
checked my reciepts and it says the same. Not like i said i spent frickin ages choosing these and pretty darn sure i wouldnt have cocked up.
Will the oils be ok? Box oil is a bit late as ive already put it in, is probably only going to be in there 6 months. But would be great for some reasurance
thanks peeps
When i spoke to TPS on saturday, he said if i was you i would always stay with 10W40 part synthetic. Dont get full synthetic.
I got redline full synthetic and found no difference. At the time, the something in the charger didnt like it and it sucked all the oil out the engine. I got millers after that but for the price of them oils and VW's (used to be synta silver) £14 for 5 litres i have never noticed the difference, except spending more money.
I have always run millers hypoid:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/showproduct.aspx?ProductID=60272&SEName=millers-oils-hypoid-80w-90-gl5-gear-oil
Haynes says SAE 80 or 75W-90
Also it says that the gear oil you got is also known as GL4/GL5 which is fine to use.
I personally wouldn't run full synthetic and especially 10W50.
Thanks mate, dammit! Cost me a fortune! Opie oils said fully synthetic would be better. Ive always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering
atleast the gear oil will be ok then, yeah its gl5 and 4
whats this about yours sucking all the oil up? Is that because it was fully synthetic?
back to the drawing board :(
thanks again mate
Did it damage the charger/engine when it did a bo bo?
QuoteIve always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering
10w40 is the ideal oil and what I've always used in 10 years of g40 ownership. If those things are happening it's because something is wrong, I don't think changing the oil is likely to do anything but cause more problems.
I'm not sure what you mean by breaking down but loosing oil pressure in light cornering, I'd be looking at the condition of the oil pump, the pickup and the sump.
I mean when the oil gets hot its pressure drops. If i go round the same corner with a fairly cold ish engine it doesnt come on even if i go round quite hard, whereas if ive been out blasting it round some country roads and oil is really hot when i go round the same corner the buzzer comes on if you get me
well if youve been using it for 10 years with no problems maybe i have a worn oil pump? Sump is fine :)
ok well thanks for the help. Looks like i wont be using it lol
Quote from: hayesey on August 07, 2013, 09:38:33 AM
QuoteIve always used synta silver but it was breaking down under hard driving and the oil buzzer would go off after light cornering
10w40 is the ideal oil and what I've always used in 10 years of g40 ownership. If those things are happening it's because something is wrong, I don't think changing the oil is likely to do anything but cause more problems.
I'm not sure what you mean by breaking down but loosing oil pressure in light cornering, I'd be looking at the condition of the oil pump, the pickup and the sump.
So do you still run Semi or you converted to fully synthetic now?
semi-synth 10w40
Taylor have you got an oil cooler on? When mine got hot an i threw it into a bend the buzzer went off like mad fitted an oil cooler an alls good
Quote from: gaz g40 on August 07, 2013, 04:40:31 PM
Taylor have you got an oil cooler on? When mine got hot an i threw it into a bend the buzzer went off like mad fitted an oil cooler an alls good
i have not, been meaning to fit one for ages, just lack of fund lol
thanks very much for the usefull bit of info, will be my next investment
how extra oil do you put it when running a cooler? Thanks again
Can't you get ur oil cheaper thro ur work Taylor?
And ur answer for how much Extra oil to put in if ur running a cooler, it depends what size ur running eg 10row 13 or 19 or other sizes but I would say put a extra .3 in let it get up to temp ( if u have a thermostatic plate) so the cooler is full up the turn it off the dip it till it reads max
I've always run 10-40 semi best stuff for that engine IMO
:)
Yeah i get trade from tps £11 for 5 litres, i just dont trust is all, ill get an oil cooler fitted and go from there. I still cant see how semi is better than full synthetic, but if paul has been using it for 10 years pluss and never had trouble, im not gonna question it lol
cheers for that ryan, ill probably just get a small mocal 10 tow with thermo plate, can plug the oil temp sensor straight in there too when i get one
QuoteI still cant see how semi is better than full synthetic
It's not as simple as the more synthetic is it, the better it is. Older engines are better with more mineral oil content, they are designed that way.
That's true to some extent Paul; I think the interpretation of "older" is something of a variable though. At twenty years, we tend to think of the G as old, but I reckon the relevant factor for oil choice is machining tolerances at the production stage. G's were produced at the cusp of mineral/synthetic availability, but wouldn't qualify for any added specific recommendations from VW as mineral was doing the job OK. Doesn't mean that you can't improve on it though, does it?
Quite a lot of genuinely "old" cars are still run on quite heavy mineral oils as the machining
of the engines components was archaic by todays standards. Many though, having had full
engine rebuilds, make the change to synthetics as a matter of course.
Me? 10-60 synth.
G40 engine is based on a 70's design....so when people say it's old then they aren't wrong.
Problem with oils is unless you can analyse what comes out your sump at a change or inspect the wear and compare on different engines you don't really know what oil is doing a better/worse job.
Ive been thinking about sending a sample of my current oil off for analaysis and then send some full synthetic after a hammering and see the difference
30 year old design car but engines manufactured at 20 years old Tav., so not in the Morris Minor category. Oil lab. analysis costs £50 at least and as long as your engine is in pretty good nick, it won't show anything definitive between oil types.
personally i m sticking to 10w40 semi synth aswell...
changing it might do more harm then good..
Thats more expensive than i thought lol £50 could get me 20 litres of oil from tps!! Haha
im not just on about tolerances and protection
fully synthetics dont shear like semis do. They stay within their viscosity for longer even at very high temps. Whereas a semi would fall out of its viscosity and shear
did you say you use 10w60 full synth scot?
Looked back for an Oil Lab invoice from 2006 and it was £34; 2009 was £42, so probably not far off £50 now. As for 10-60, why not ? My G's on 129k atm and about 140hp. As we know, even a modest power increase sees oil temperatures going high. People are suggesting they have worries about oil breakdown and I believe they may be right. An Oil Cooler will do the trick, but 10-60 is the way out for lazy sods like me.
Cheers scot :) was talking to my mate whos worked for vw for years and he said on a high mileage g40 the tolerances are gonna be pretty big, so if anything 10w 50 will be good as the oil will be thicker at high temps :)
Sooo have we decided? Semi or Fully synthetic?
Semi, but change it regularly if you drive the car hard, or use it infrequently.
i ended up using olive oil...
no i used the stuff i got sent, fully ester based (only because it cost me £50 and i cant afford anything else)
ill see how it goes, but will probably change back to decent semi in a couple thousand miles. cant see 10w 50 being any good inthe winter, seemed pretty thick
Quote from: Andy on August 21, 2013, 08:04:23 PM
Semi, but change it regularly if you drive the car hard, or use it infrequently.
Cheers!
Has anyone tried the Motul oils yet? They seem to be geared towards performace use?