Club G40 Forum
Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: Alexis on July 05, 2014, 02:31:29 pm
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These issues came about since fitting the 65mm pulley. Originally I didn't have the g40001 chip in and figured that was why these issues existed, however I've installed the new chip and the problems persist.
If you start it, then rev it to get rid of the battery light, let it settle back down to idle again, it sits at ~900rpm, then takes about a minute to die. I noticed after the first time it died, the rev counter kept jumping about bizarrely when the engine was off.
If you give it some gas and keep your foot in the same position, it will rev to 2000, die back to 900, back up to 3000 then die again.
Recently, it's had the supercharger serviced by myself,
new dizzy cap and rotor arm, as the last one was pitted,
New blue temp sensor a few months back,
Changed the co pot.
I've checked for vacuum and boost leaks, which seem to be nonexistant.
I'm sure I will have missed stuff out. Thanks for any help.
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Sounds like it might be hall sender tbh
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Forgot to mention, if you unplug the blue temperature sensor to get it in service mode, the symptoms disappear.
I've been trying to get vwtool to read it, but I'm getting a connection error. I'm going to open up the cable tonight and test it.
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Sounds like an alternator issue. Check your battery voltage
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Hall sender I reckon, a spazzy rev counter is usually a sign that it's failing.
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Will do tomorrow. I hope its not as it just got replaced last year.
I was back at it tonight and realised the symptoms only appear after about a minute of idle. Before that, it will idle stable and at ~900rpm.
After the symptoms started, I unplugged the lambda sensor and the problems went away, and the idle increased to ~1100. I'm not sure if this means the lambda is faulty, or if the default rich map is covering up the real issue.
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Default rich map covering issues I would assume. Do u revs change when unplugging blue temp sensor. As above what's ur voltage across battery when running?
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Last night it wouldn't start, just kept turning over but the fuel pump wouldn't even prime. I took out the fuel pump relay and cleaned the contacts, then put it back in, and now the problems solved. I'm assuming this was just a coincidence.
Once running, I checked the voltage and got 13.86v on idle then 14.06v throughout the rest of the rev range.
I bought a hall sender and it's just arrived, so away to fit it...
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Looks like I got the wrong type :(
(http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk50/Alexis050891/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseabd5723.jpg)
(http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk50/Alexis050891/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps7af97483.jpg)
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Thats from an early 6n/ibiza mk2 hall sender
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Damn. It was even listed as correct for the G40 here:
http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartDetails.aspx?s_pc=PPU2733&s_vid= (http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartDetails.aspx?s_pc=PPU2733&s_vid=)
My own fault for not checking though.
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hmm i seen g40s with top n bottom sensor. more with 4 screw holes and bottom sensor.
its the dizzy that looks potentially wrong - whats the part number?
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Sounds similar to my issues
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I think it's 0237521050.
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it got a vw part no - not a bosch.
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Apologies, just went out and checked it again and got the full set of numbers.
0237521050
Z415
1235101549
A 1248.A.04. 11.3
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So after much kerfuffle, I got a hall sender which would fit the distributor. I installed it tonight and it still has the same symptoms, they just don't seem as severe now, plus the rev gauge doesn't jump about of it's own accord.
The battery voltage is fine throughout the rev range, and I double checked the timing obviously as I had removed the distributor.
Anyone got any thoughts?
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Have u had a timing light on it?
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Yep, timed it up again after I refitted the dizzy.
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have you determined the cause of your need to rev the car to remove the battery light? sounds like a short circuit
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Nope. To be honest it only does it sometimes, there seems to be no pattern to when it comes on or not.
After running it for a few days with the new hall sender, the symptoms are still apparent. Sometimes it revs quite low on idle but doesn't cut out, sometimes its fine. Again, there seems to be no pattern to this.
Has anyone here modified the wiring to be able to put vag com on it? Mine didn't come with the plug wired in, so I wired it to pin 20 for the DLC, but my vag com still reads nothing.
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Have you set the idle speed properly in service mode at the same time as doing the ignition timing?
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i modified the wiring to make my car have the 16pin obd11 plug. dont use vagcom as it wont work- use "vwtool" which will work with a 409 vagcom lead.
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I used vwtool too, but got the same message. Is it definately pin 20 on the ECU?
I set the ignition timing and idle speed when in service mode. It idles really low now, about 600-650, but seems quite steady.
The symptoms have now disappeared, and what's happening now is it takes about 4 or 5 cranks for 10 seconds each before it will fire. I can hear the pump prime each time I turn the key. If I've been driving for a while, then slow down to idle and stop, it will idle at 1500-1200-1000, staying at a few seconds for each until it settles at 650ish.
Also, when I move the ECU multiplug, even slightly, the relay for the fuel pump clicks on and off, as if the contact is making and breaking. At one point, I wiggled it and the starter motor fired. Luckily it was in gear and handbrake on so no damage.
I have cable ties keeping the plug securely onto the ECU, but I'm assuming it may move about when the cars moving.
If you maintain a steady throttle to keep at a set speed, it feels like the car is kind of pulsing, as If trying to accelerate.