Club G40 Forum
Technical => Engine and Transmission => Topic started by: goosyganger on July 29, 2009, 05:49:28 pm
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Hey
I'm just trying to set up the final adjustments on my g. I have a timing light to do it. Set it to tdc and marked the crank cambelt pulley to the block and have been seeing how it goeS. Initially it ran like a bag of shit and sounded like it was only on 3 cylinders and then we played around with the dizzy and now it seems to fire ok and on time.
However I am having an issue with the running. It starts first time without much cranking over and runs a little lumpy from the start and the engine rocks a bit. After about a minute or so the idle settles down and it sits between 900-1000rpm. And ocassionally it briefly drops to high 800s. Would this qualify as hunting?? Then when I accelerate it revs quite nice, sounds fine. But, when I let off the accelerator the revs drop to low 800s and then needs a few moments to make it self happy again and seems to sound ok. Ow yeah and when it is judering after deceleration it smokes black from the exhaust. Is it running rich?
To stop this I tried to increase the revs a little with the dizzy so that it idles at around 1080rpm but still slightly has the problem when accelerating and decelerating from around 2500-3000rpm.
Obviously I would like it to run efficienty so dint want it idling really high. What is optimum idle speed? After deceleration should the revs drop then find idle again? Does anyone have any tips on how to set up idle or perhaps the ignition timing if I have got it wrong.
If you need more specific info let me know what it is and I'll do my best to tell you. Thanks for any help.
Nik
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Just so i am sure I havent missed anything what vac pipes should be blanked? because i have the charcoal canister disconnected. Does the vac pipe coming from the fuel pressure reg need to be blocked up? The one on the throttle body is already blocked.
Thanks for the help mate, I will give this a go tomorrow. Am going to make sure all the timing is bang on, and then try to see what happens.
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you need a vac pipe going to the fuel regulator so don't whatever you do take that off or blank it off.
You need to blank off the throttle body pipe which sticks out the front and also the one which comes off the rubber pipe which goes from the ISV to the inlet manifold.
Also ensure that you have all the connectors on the right sensors, its easy to get mixed up as i did last week with the knock sensor and the Co Pot sensor connectors.
You may need to increase you idle speed by turning the little screw on the throttle body, you need it idling around 1000rpm.
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cheers robin.
That vac pipe that goes to the pressure regulator, where does it need to be attached to? Its been so long since I had the old engine out I cant remember where they go.
Ok cool, I think the one from the isv pipe is also already blocked.
Right, ill do a little check on the wiring to make sure its right.
Ok ill play around with that screw and see if it helps. Maybe that is where I am going wrong because I have been trying to raise the rpm slightly by adjusting the distributor.
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the fuel reg vac line goes to the pipe which comes off the inlet and goes to the brake servo.
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Sort of had it running a little smoother today but occasionally it still stalled when you press the accelerator slightly. Also It seems like the '0' wasnt int he right place on the crank pulley so I moved the belt slightly so it was more accurate. Before I started it again I checked the spark plugs and they were pretty black, is that because it was running lean??
When I started it again a little tweek of the dizzy it sounded to run much smoother on idle but when it warmed up a bit it was a little slow accelerating.
Also, this will sound stupid but how exactly do you use the 'z' marker as a reference point. When you set the pulley to 'z' what do you set in relation to it? do you have to do something with the dizzy?
Ow, and the should there only be one vacuum pipe going to the fuel reg to the pipe going to the brake servo vacuum?
Thanks
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Just an update
I have this evening discovered that cylinder two isnt firing. So it seems it has only been running on 3 cylinders since I got it running. Could this be one of the reasons for the rough running and slight hunting? Checked the HT lead, its not that, checked the loom its not that. tomorrow will check if its the injector, and the dizzy cap.
Cheers
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does anyone have any input?
cheers
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yes, cylinder 2 is definatly not firing. I tried it a few times. i will change the spark plug to see if its that. ive swapped around the HT leads and the same stuff occurs. Can it be the injectors? I am doutful it is because i had them cleaned profesionally before i put them in, so i would hope its not the injector. ok so i need to buy a new hall sender, dizzy cap and rotor arm just to test it :(.
Will the richness of the running smoothen out when I get that second cylinder running and the ignition/idle ok?
thanks Rae mate your being a huge help along with Robin!
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I checked today whether there is a spark at all in Cylinder 2 and there is definatly a spark, so I dont think its anything to do with ignition. As I assume that if anything to do with the dizzy, leads or plugs was wrong then it wouldnt spark right?
Could it be that the injector rail is blocked up?? I had the injectors cleaned but could it still be goosed?? Or could it be an ECU issue??
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you compression tested it all?
you have spark, so fuel and compression need testing
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unbolt the fuel rail and pop it out with the injectors still attached, then get someone to try starting the engine while you hold the injectors over something to catch the fuel in. Then watch for them all firing when trying to start the car. Disconnect the ignition coil while doing it too
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Thanks for the tip hayesey, I tried that today as everything appeared to be pointing at the fueling, and it seems that the injector in that cylinder is not spraying any fuel!! ARGHHH!
What do you think I should do? Look for another injector from someone because this one might be goosed? Or contact the place that cleaned it to have that one alone done again? I used the place injectorcleaning.co.uk.
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swap the injector to another cylinder and see if it still doesn't work. If it now does work and the previously working injector put onto cyl 2 suddenly doesn't work then I'd suspect the injector wiring loom on the fuel rail.
And if the injector still doesn't work then I'd get onto the company who cleaned them for you.
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yes, I wanted to completely elliminate the loom and the rail. I first checked the voltage coming out of the loom on the injector and it seemed fine, but I also swapped around injectors from cylinder 2 and 3. The original injector from cylinder 2 (now in the 3rd position) was still not spraying, so its got to be the injector.
So I will have to get onto that company tomorrow and try to get them to re-do that injector.
Thanks
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wel I'd say if the injector is dead then you'll need a new one.
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i wouldnt be happy putting it in even after its been looked at..get yourself a new set or a new one at least
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Yeah I'm just trying to source one now. Might be worth just grabbing a different one.
Anyone know how much vw charge for a brand new one? A few arms and legs I assume?
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Yes Bosch direct might be better. Vw wanted an absolute fortune for them! I got new ones from psd when they were open. They weren't Bosch but a good company non the less but I'd have to take them out to remind me. Obviously psd is no more. Might be worth ringing g werks and seeing if they can get hold of some for you or Bosch direct.
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They were Densos! That's the name! Just came to my head! Theyre a supplier to many oem companies and as far as my quick research suggests Mitsubishi use them in their evos and they are a topic for discussion for upgrading to other densos. I remember Steve got them from the US. Type in denso injectors on google and there is a lot of info about them from their own websites and forums etc. Might be worth trying to get some of them if they're cheaper than Bosch ones? Having a lot of info pop up is reasuring and when they're used in high performance cars too. Nowt worse than typing a brand in and finding nowt lol.
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Denso are basically the equivalent of Bosch but for Japanese cars instead of European ones. I'd have no qualms about using Denso parts really.
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might be the injector loom as hayesey says as they should all work fine after cleaning them. i'd say swap no 2 and 1, if the prob is still on no2 then it aint the injector but the loom
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I think he's already tried swapping the injector onto another cylinder though pete.
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i'd send them back and complain then!!!
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The other three are fine though so its not really necessary to get a full set. I checked with a few Bosch dealers today and noone has any, would need to order them from abroad which wouldnt take long but would cost around £55 for the pleaser per injector. Which isnt too bad. I checked with VW just out of interest, they want around £120 per injector lol.
Ill look into these Denso injectors, might be worth grabbing a set on the next pay check.
Yeah Pete I changed 2 and 3 around and the same injector wasnt working. So im trying to contact the place that did them to get them to re do it or at least investigate whats going on with them. Im trying to get a different all together though to have a few spares. But will definatly get a new set as soon as I can afford them because it doesnt seem like the most reliable way of maintaining them.
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if you want to borrow a set, I have a set of spares in a bag in my spare room.