Hayesy. I see above you recommend a standard (which has worked with my power) or a Helix organic clutch. Here's a quick link to my last dyno run:
http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9438.msg69172#msg69172 (somewhere down this page, the accidentally labelled HZ cam run)
I have decent power. My engine is now in bits, forged rods are going in, crank's been balanced, already 1341 forged pistons etc etc.. Also got the gearbox apart and putting my Quaife ATB in to stop the dyno wheelspin which caused the dip on the above dyno run and raising doubts.
I have discovered that the flywheel had a pretty standard looking Valeo clutch on it and it has never slipped but it is cracking around the splines. My man reckons it may be an uprated Valeo clutch (as been so good) if such a thing exists . Anyway, my point is it looks like nothing special and it has never slipped and the car has some serious torque, it just pulls all over the road with the open diff when changing into 3rd even. I'm worried that with the ATB en situ that this traction loss will convert back to the clutch when gained at the wheels? You seem like a well seasoned enough guy to be asking.
I don't know what the pressure plate is I'm using but I'm thinking of just buying the Helix Organic plate:
http://www.performanceclutch.co.uk/13ltr-g40-1987-1994/70-4719-vw-polo-fast-road-clutch-1988297-233202-582515.phpI'm with the thinking that as the Valeo doesn't slip when aerodynamic downforce is greatest (to aid traction) in 4th / 5th at high speed, that the Helix will suffice also? I've even considered just buying another Valeo as it has really coped with this power well, despite the cracks appearing around the splines. Thing is the Helix is solid around the splines which is an attraction and may avoid this.
I don't want a nasty paddle clutch, I drive this car around the lakes with flowery cushions in the back window and keep it looking like grandma's car. I want it to still drive like grandma's when it's not on boost too