Tom, here’s a quick list of things to check that should help you find the root cause:
1) Drain oil into clear container (note some types of plastic will disintegrate with fuel/oil mix) and see if there’s any separation, you can usually smell fuel content in oil, and it will light too (much more easily than oil)
2) Take pictures of the bores on all cylinders- if a lack of lubrication caused by bore was has led to a melted piston, you’ll see this in the ring on all cylinders, if No.1 has gone first, the other 3 won’t be far behind.
3) Check injector part numbers, and for cracks on their bodies and the fuel rail, and for any debris in them (they have small filters in the top)
4) Photograph cylinder head
5) Check wiring (your knock sensor looks dead) check boost switch (Chris has written an FAQ on this) and that your wiring is correct, this is key- if the 6psi switch is engaged on cruise, then the ECU will assume you’re at a full throttle condition for a given MAP & Speed site, so it will be too rich- lambda won’t correct on WOT either, check CO pot values, you can’t check cam timing or ignition timing now- can you remember what they were?
6) Check all coolant passages and the pump impeller (although you said it was running normal temp?) usually if the coolant temp is too high expansion tank and then a head gasket after that.
7) Injector clean/test again (post results)
Fuel pump check- G40 will run quite happily without a lift pump until 3500-4000rpm and then will go lean, you can check both are working and their flow rates very easily with a 5litre jerry can and a stop watch, off the top of my head a stock G40 lift pump is 75lph
That should give you enough to go at
Pete